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GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP PAPS

Discussion in 'VapourArt' started by perseas, Jan 31, 2014.

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  1. StrikeIII

    StrikeIII Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 10, 2013
    Chicago
    I have both and love them but they are completely different. The X gives you all the extensions you need for all configurations including a kick. The switch is different and is still very good (one of the best) with a Silver plated contact. The X is also a 23mm mod and is heavier, a beast of a mod (in a good way).

    People who choose one over the other is because either the diameter, they want a one piece tube instead of extensions or price.

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
     
  2. Woody7781

    Woody7781 Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 23, 2013
    Buffalo,NY
  3. doghouse

    doghouse Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Thanks that's helpful. I'm guessing they both perform about the same, which would be extremely well or have you noticed better performance from one versus the other. Thanks again.
     
  4. Hrathor

    Hrathor Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Oct 27, 2011
    Canton, MI
    Or 201 threading, button feel. I prefer the native 201 on the v3 as well as the button (slightly). And the logo! The X is great for battery adaptability and it feels more solid to me. It's much better as a personal defense tool ;)
     
  5. chadsmo

    chadsmo Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 16, 2013
    BC Canada
    I've got a V3 and a X 1.5 and if I had to give one of up them for some reason I'd keep the V3. I love them both for different reasons but the switch on the V3 is just fantastic.

    As far as performance , they both hit incredibly hard.
     
  6. Ohm-y-Gosh

    Ohm-y-Gosh Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 9, 2014
    England, UK
    I apologise if this has been discussed before as I haven't read through all the posts......

    I have just acquired a Heron and an 18,650 paps v3 tube from the latest batch. It's my understanding that all I need to complete a hybrid device is the v3 switch to go on the end of the tube. Coming from a Kayfun/Provari this is my first foray into hybrid territory so I'm a little hazy on the in's and out's of it. am I correct in this assumption? and if so, is there any info available on when a v3 swich will be available?

    If it's a while, perhaps I'll grab a cheap mod with M20x1 threading to get up and running with the Heron.....any suggestions on a cost effective mod that will fill the gap prior to getting my hands on a v3 switch?
     
  7. StrikeIII

    StrikeIII Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 10, 2013
    Chicago
    That is correct. All you need is the V3 switch which will not be available until early next month. Maaaaybe end of this month.
     
  8. Ohm-y-Gosh

    Ohm-y-Gosh Senior Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 9, 2014
    England, UK
    Thanks, not tooo long then. Any suggestions on a stop-gap mod that won't wreck the bank balance with M20x1 threading?. It will be tough not being able to use my Heron whilst I wait for a switch if I don't grab one.....only other mod I've got at the mo is a Provari
     
  9. StrikeIII

    StrikeIII Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Dec 10, 2013
    Chicago
    Sorry, don't know of any cheap 201 devices. They are all at least $150 and up.
     
  10. qorax

    qorax ECF Guru Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Mar 6, 2013
    Brampton, Canada
    A Night Job
    ~a 'must do' routine, at least once a month

    [​IMG]
    1. Soap water bath
    2. Scrubbed with an old toothbrush
    3. Polished twice
    4. Washed & dried again before assembly
     
  11. Jerry J

    Jerry J Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 6, 2013
    Portland, OR
    I'm not sure if I've missed this somewhere but on my v2.5 top caps I have scratches. What is the best way to polish them out? I was going to buy a PnB jig to give that a try but they have been sold out at Domo for awhile.
     
  12. chadsmo

    chadsmo Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Feb 16, 2013
    BC Canada
    Post 97 in this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407053
     
  13. Jerry J

    Jerry J Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Jul 6, 2013
    Portland, OR
  14. jers

    jers Full Member Verified Member

    Apr 14, 2013
    manila
    for sub ohmerz how low can the gpin handle? tia
     
  15. jpcwon

    jpcwon Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jan 14, 2014
    North Easton, MA
    I routinely run mine @ .4 Ohms without incident....not sure how much lower you'd want to go?
     
  16. perseas

    perseas Registered Supplier ECF Veteran

    Dec 11, 2011
    Athens, Hellas
  17. moya

    moya Full Member

    Nov 6, 2012
    Berkeley, CA
    Any advice for smoothing out thread burrs? The upper thread on my v2.5 (July 2013 batch) top cap is especially rough, in addition to some tube threads.

    Here are some ....ty pictures for reference - Paps v2.5 Burrs - Imgur
     
  18. perseas

    perseas Registered Supplier ECF Veteran

    Dec 11, 2011
    Athens, Hellas
    Please, send an email to info@vapourart.com with your order number and on Monday we shall respond to you.
     
  19. jers

    jers Full Member Verified Member

    Apr 14, 2013
    manila
    thanks for the reply sir, my usual build are 0.2 but I specially build my coil now around 0.5 for my paps x and v3, just don't want to break my gpin :)
     
  20. jpcwon

    jpcwon Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Supporting member
    Jan 14, 2014
    North Easton, MA
    OK. Just please remember that Perseas does not recommend sub-ohming with the GPin, so doing so is at your own risk. Since writing that last response, I have gone away from sub-ohming in favor of 1.0-1.2 Ohms builds in my fluff attys (Heron, Spheroid, Prometey)....I don't drip like I used to and when I do, it's lately been around .8 Ohms or more.....
     

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