GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

[v4pe_chase]

I just got mine today and you were supposed to get a thinner pin that was included with a spring

Got my lux today, awesome vape mail

But, i seem to have a problem with the top-pin adjustment. I snug up the outer pin to make good contact with the atomizer, but even with the adjustable pin tightened all the way down, i get 1mm gap between the top-cap and the 350 tube.

any suggestions? i took a look at the domo page and their v2.5 pin upgrade kit comes with a 1.2mm as well as 2.2mm adjustable pin. My extras baggy had a spare spring and pin, but both are the thicker 2.2mm versions. did someone forget to include the thinner pin (which i think would solve my gap issue)?

thanks,
chris

 

[Firestorm]

Have you tried without the telescopic pin and just use the center post screw? I do this when using a fuse.

 

[curisu]

I just got mine today and you were supposed to get a thinner pin that was included with a spring

i got 2 of the same pins.

Have you tried without the telescopic pin and just use the center post screw? I do this when using a fuse.

i can run a 18350 + kick with just the center post, but nothing i've tried will let use the 350 tube. i do have a 2-cent fuse, but it would be taller than the center pin.

 

[Firestorm]

I went to change tubes on my LUX and I noticed all of this black grime on the button where it makes contact with the battery and in the grooves of the nut. I immediately inspected the battery and the black gunk is there too where it makes contact with the button (almost like ink). I tried gently removing the black gunk from the button with some alcohol and a q-tip but it is really stuck on there. I have the majority of it off, taking care not to press too hard, but I'm pretty sure that I see areas of silver underneath. The rest of the button seems fine. I was using an AW IMR 18650 with a mechanical fuse on the other end (I've used a Vape2Safe and ShortStop tonight). I was using a new 2.5 switch from the 6th batch with a LUX button upgrade kit I got earlier in the month. It was vaping just great and the battery seems cool and fine. I clean my gear weekly and enjoy cleaning up a little black residue on batteries and contacts, but I've never seen anything like this.

Any thoughts or insight? I think I'll use my 2.1 switch and top cap with my new 2.5 brushed SS 18650 tube with a different battery in the meantime until I hopefully get some helpful responses.

 

[Firestorm]

i do have a 2-cent fuse, but it would be taller than the center pin.

I rarely use my 18350 tubes, but I can put a Vape2Safe with the nipple touching the bottom of the battery with a minimal gap (paper thin) with only the center pin. But then again, my 18650 battery could explode at any moment, so perhaps you shouldn't follow my advice.

 

[Idaholandho]

So did the substance come from the battery? or was it existing? If not sure test the battery with a multimeter. If you do not have a small multimeter, please buy one. As, they play an important role in our safety and vaping exp.

If it came from the battery - shti can it!

AW IMR's are the only way to go!

 

[UKPaul]

Nice micro UK, I count 12 wraps. What ohms are you getting on each coil ?

Thanks gb
I think from memory it was 1.8 ohms

 

[UKPaul]

That looks incredible! How does it not short out?

Thanks Amirite,
The micros are designed to have touching coils if possible.
I am not sure why they don't short out.

 

[Firestorm]

I think the battery is fine, the black stuff is just in the center on the bottom where it touches the button - I really don't think that it's going to explode (I was joking above). It is not venting, it is cool to the touch, and I see no deformities in the shape or along the seams.

My multimeter measures the voltage of the battery at 4.09v. It was a fresh battery recently and I usually measure the voltage after charging (I let it stand for a bit off the charger).

I don't know if it's related, but I recently posted that using just my Diver, it seemed that some of the gold plating was stripped from the center pin on this same LUX upgrade kit the day that I got it. Perhaps there's a connection or a problem with the gold plating?

I read a recent posting by Imeo about his feelings on plating and how atomizers are just going shred it off and it's a waste of money. I stashed away the LUX button, nut, center pin, and screws from my recently purchased 2.5 LUX and opted to use my upgrade kit instead due to the immediate wear and my concerns about the fragility of the plating. I recently got another shiny Greek mod that has silver plated contacts and the plating seems pretty thick and I haven't noticed any problems after a few days of heavy use with different atomizers. I love all of my Paps gear, and will continue to buy more, but I'm becoming a bit disappointed with the plating as it seems to be wearing off both contacts in just over a week. I guess silver is still better than brass, and at least the button looks beautiful from the other side.

EDIT - I found the same black substance on another battery that I recently charged. I don't see any of this grime on the charger. These are a pair of batteries that I got two to three months ago at RTD.

 

[Idaholandho]

I would be very interested in a picture.

 

[UKPaul]

Hey UKPaul, i hope You are going to tell us a little more about that microcoil for example, what ohm do You get out of it, how areyou going to get some wick through that tiny hole?

Sendt fra Tapatalk 4

It is realy easy to wick using rolled cotton perhol.

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You can easily slide the cotton out and heat the coils and the juice justs burns away leaving them clean and slide a new wick in.

 

[UKPaul]

There is an excellent thread for micros titled:

Micro coils to increase vapor, flavour and TH.

 

[UKPaul]

There is an excellent thread for micros titled:

Micro coils to increase vapor, flavour and TH.

It is in the rebuildable atomiser systems section.

Sorry, I still haven't learnt how to post links.

Some of the guys coils in there are stunning.

 

[Firestorm]

Here are some pictures - I wish that I had taken a photo of the switch before I cleaned it:

 

[jasl90]

Thanks Amirite,
The micros are designed to have touching coils if possible.
I am not sure why they don't short out.

Actually they can and do short. Fortunately the wire itself is far less resistive than the deceptively small contact area created where two circles meet (the cross section of wire). Plus, the wire itself will develop a layer of oxides that acts as a insulator. Torching and dry firing build the oxide layer faster.

I have, however, fired one of these and watched only 1 side glow... Kinda trippy...

 

[qorax]

There is an excellent thread for micros titled:

Micro coils to increase vapor, flavour and TH.

Our very own NinjaVapes shows how to too...

 

[techmatlock]

I just received my Lux yesterday in the mail. I'm having an issue with the switch button sticking or feeling real gritty when trying to fire. How do I resolve this issue?

 

[perseas]

I just received my Lux yesterday in the mail. I'm having an issue with the switch button sticking or feeling real gritty when trying to fire. How do I resolve this issue?

Send please an email to us to info(at)vapourart.com and we shall fix it.

 

[techmatlock]

Send please an email to us to info(at)vapourart.com and we shall fix it.

Actually, I found out why it's doing that. If I have the locking ring all the way tight, that's when the button sticks. However, if I leave it slightly untightened in the direction to lock it, then the button works fine. Is this a known issue, or is it isolated to only me?

 

[perseas]

Actually, I found out why it's doing that. If I have the locking ring all the way tight, that's when the button sticks. However, if I leave it slightly untightened in the direction to lock it, then the button works fine. Is this a known issue, or is it isolated to only me?

No, it is not common that. Send us an email.