GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

[perseas]

Perseas!
I have the V1 and it is awesome. The V1 takes a bit more practice to learn the best settings to weld, I count seconds. He was selling the V1 schematics for us to build or he could build one for us.

I heard his V2 is AWESOME. And, it very nice because we can just set the volts on the screen and Bam!
He does not have a presence here on ECF, I just emailed him. I did not realize he even had a website, Thanks buddy.

Best thing is that he is also a Greek!

Angel Gomez is Mexican, (you meant the maker of Zapper). WW v2 maker's nickname on ECF as I was informed right now is seth83, the same as on VW.

The v2 has the ability to charge the internal removable 18650 battery via a USB port.

Here is a video with the differences between the 2 versions.

 

[maverik]

I ordered one myself. Lots of cool handy features as shown on the videos of the V2 prototype!

A friend recommended to me a Wire Welder v2, I just ordered it for my Ithaka and Diver.
They are made by hand with an ETA of 3 weeks for construction. I heard good words for them and I am not affiliated in any way with their maker. His site

I don't know if the maker has a presence on ECF. You can see the project in VW here.

 

[perseas]

Returning my Paps 18800 tube to Domo. Pretty disapointed with it and i hope this isnt whats in store for future products.

What was the issue buddy?

 

[fasteddie]

Aios t/d by Mojo is a fine dripper. There are no others that compete in 22mm and it loves micro coil/cotton. Skip the cheaper nimbus and others and buy the best. There has been a couple in the classies here and some leads on UK Vapers .

Thanks for the advice, its not easy to find, I have been looking around and found this $18.76 AIOS Rebuildable Atomizer for Chi-you Mod at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Would this fit? its designed for the chi-you so I guess not.

 

[qorax]

kayfun Lite Clear Windows!
By Kir Fanis

Just saw it posted on VaporWall. Comes in White, Blue and Yellow for a cool price of €6 EUR each
Available at gr-modders.com

And a Very Good Morning folks!

 

[digitals]

It's a GP house around here..

Wife's 350 setup on the left, and mine on the right!

And let it be known, since I've been building her Spheroid I've gotten better at it. I want ONE of them back now, and she won't give it to me!!!

 

[fasteddie]

kayfun Lite Clear Windows!
By Kir Fanis

Just saw it posted on VaporWall. Comes in White, Blue and Yellow for a cool price of €6 EUR each
Available at gr-modders.com

And a Very Good Morning folks!

Nice shout, thanks Qorax

 

[raqball]

Returning my Paps 18800 tube to Domo. Pretty disapointed with it and i hope this isnt whats in store for future products.

Contact Domo and I can 200% guarantee you that he will bend over backwards to take care of you..

 

[qorax]

Nice shout, thanks Qorax

Thanks buddy! It was for the 'nut crackers' amongst us, like me

 

[RickCain]

So I decided to take another run at my diver again last night with good and bad results. I have yet to get a quality vape from it while in a tank (SnP or Scuba) always with it leaking out the bottom of the 510 connector.

This time I did the following:
1 - cleaned everything
2 - double wrap of 2mm silica with a premade 1.4 ohm coil (stormmy's premades)
3 - made a second "U" out of the NR wire and placed it in the bottom of the cup (positive side to double it up)
4 - pressed the cup into the based while the center pin was in place
5 - cut wicks, primmed the wicks, tested coils and applied the chimmy ensuring the fluid hole was not blocked by the wick
6 - with the GP carto tool I inserted it into the SnP tank and left the bottom of the diver out of the tank so fluid whole was free
7 - filled the SnP tank and closed off tightly
8 - pushed the diver into the tank
INSTANTLY BEGAN TO DRIP EJUICE OUT THE BOTTOM


So I decided to do the same with the Scuba tank following steps 1-8 and it doesn't leak..... I woke up this morning to a gurgle free Diver which was nice. I possibly have too much wick in there because it doesn't wick well, requires a couple of pulls to get it going.

While I like the scuba tank I have almost 200.00 invested in SnP tanks and Provari bases. Does anyone have a good experience with the SnP tanks and can see where I am maybe doing something to cause instant leaking?

 

[fasteddie]

So I decided to take another run at my diver again last night with good and bad results. I have yet to get a quality vape from it while in a tank (SnP or Scuba) always with it leaking out the bottom of the 510 connector.

This time I did the following:
1 - cleaned everything
2 - double wrap of 2mm silica with a premade 1.4 ohm coil (stormmy's premades)
3 - made a second "U" out of the NR wire and placed it in the bottom of the cup (positive side to double it up)
4 - pressed the cup into the based while the center pin was in place
5 - cut wicks, primmed the wicks, tested coils and applied the chimmy ensuring the fluid hole was not blocked by the wick
6 - with the GP carto tool I inserted it into the SnP tank and left the bottom of the diver out of the tank so fluid whole was free
7 - filled the SnP tank and closed off tightly
8 - pushed the diver into the tank
INSTANTLY BEGAN TO DRIP EJUICE OUT THE BOTTOM


So I decided to do the same with the Scuba tank following steps 1-8 and it doesn't leak..... I woke up this morning to a gurgle free Diver which was nice. I possibly have too much wick in there because it doesn't wick well, requires a couple of pulls to get it going.

While I like the scuba tank I have almost 200.00 invested in SnP tanks and Provari bases. Does anyone have a good experience with the SnP tanks and can see where I am maybe doing something to cause instant leaking?

I would tend to be looking at a leak on the tank somehere, check the o-rings inside the top and bottom cap are good. Are you using the softer o-rings from the kit or the standard black ones?
Also check the external orings look good.

If you are leaking air into the tank it will drop its fluid, or at least thats my understanding.

 

[qorax]

Hey, when is the Drip-Tips' Vapourday again?

 

[txredxj]

What was the issue buddy?

My batteries dont fit with out a gap at the top that i hate. Domo has told me AW IMR batteries are all it works with. The Efest and Panasonic flat top batteries i have are to long to run the short post and to short without it. The bead blasted finish doesnt hold up as well as the brushed but im hard on stuff lol.

 

[RickCain]

My batteries dont fit with out a gap at the top that i hate. Domo has told me AW IMR batteries are all it works with. The Efest and Panasonic flat top batteries i have are to long to run the short post and to short without it. The bead blasted finish doesnt hold up as well as the brushed but im hard on stuff lol.

Did you change our your top adjustment pin when going from 18350 to 18500? The 18500/18650 requires the thicker center pin and the 18350 uses the thinner one. This is the top cap adjustment pin that hits the positive side of the battery. I have no problems with any AW battery and gaps.

 

[RickCain]

I would tend to be looking at a leak on the tank somehere, check the o-rings inside the top and bottom cap are good. Are you using the softer o-rings from the kit or the standard black ones?
Also check the external orings look good.

If you are leaking air into the tank it will drop its fluid, or at least thats my understanding.

Using the back ones per the instructions - it says the red are for the Killer.

 

[raqball]

Using the back ones per the instructions - it says the red are for the Killer.

Nopers..

The black inner o-rings work fine for regular cartos but a Diver will NOT fit if they are used. With the Diver the red inner o-rings MUST be used..

 

[raqball]

So I decided to take another run at my diver again last night with good and bad results. I have yet to get a quality vape from it while in a tank (SnP or Scuba) always with it leaking out the bottom of the 510 connector.

This time I did the following:
1 - cleaned everything
2 - double wrap of 2mm silica with a premade 1.4 ohm coil (stormmy's premades)
3 - made a second "U" out of the NR wire and placed it in the bottom of the cup (positive side to double it up)
4 - pressed the cup into the based while the center pin was in place
5 - cut wicks, primmed the wicks, tested coils and applied the chimmy ensuring the fluid hole was not blocked by the wick
6 - with the GP carto tool I inserted it into the SnP tank and left the bottom of the diver out of the tank so fluid whole was free
7 - filled the SnP tank and closed off tightly
8 - pushed the diver into the tank
INSTANTLY BEGAN TO DRIP EJUICE OUT THE BOTTOM


So I decided to do the same with the Scuba tank following steps 1-8 and it doesn't leak..... I woke up this morning to a gurgle free Diver which was nice. I possibly have too much wick in there because it doesn't wick well, requires a couple of pulls to get it going.

While I like the scuba tank I have almost 200.00 invested in SnP tanks and Provari bases. Does anyone have a good experience with the SnP tanks and can see where I am maybe doing something to cause instant leaking?

A few more Diver tips..

For leaking from the bottom pin issues:

1) Firmly seat the cup before inserting the pin. Then hold the cup in place and insert the pin
2) The pin must seat tightly into the cup. And I mean tightly. If it does not you may leak. If you find that pin does not seat tightly into the cup, use another cup. I have about 20 cups and 5 can't be used. All cups are not created equal and even a slight difference in their tolerance can and will result in leaks.

For dry hits / not wicking well:

1) Make sure the juice hole is centered between the wick legs. Kind of like this ===O===
2) The wick ends after getting trimmed should not touch / reach the threads of the Diver base. If they do, trim some more..

 

[RickCain]

Nopers..

The black inner o-rings work fine for regular cartos but a Diver will NOT fit if they are used. With the Diver the red inner o-rings MUST be used..

ARG!! I guess this is what I get for being too literal.

Quote from the SnP: We provide 2 kind of Viton© food grade O-rings. The black stiff ones and the red soft ones. The latter are for use especially with the top cap in case we put inside a Killer RBA and we open the top cap frequently. They don’t need to be lubricated almost at all before the use, in contrast with the black O-rings which are very tight.
If you use a Killer RBA with a GP SnP tank, replace the O-rings of the top cap with the red soft ones for an easy opening.

 

[raqball]

As far as the outter o-rings go I have never had a single leak using either the red or the black..

On a 22mm SnP I use the black because I think they look better but on the 23mm I use the red because they are hidden by the caps.

Divers in both, zero leaks ever from the tank itself..

If he is getting leaks I'd bet the farm it's the Diver and not the SnP..

 

[RickCain]

Well I know it's not the Diver because it doesn't pour out the bottom pin with the Scuba, I'm hoping it is the inner o-rings on the SnP. I just switched them out to the red ones and gonna build my secondary Diver to test.

I would be a happy man to get it running in my 23mm SnP with Provari base