Probably not, if I did, that's news to me. I don't really check the classifieds over at the wall.. find that ECF/FB is better. But VW's lists are the best of course.
- Status
Probably not, if I did, that's news to me. I don't really check the classifieds over at the wall.. find that ECF/FB is better. But VW's lists are the best of course.
EDIT: Turns out this gap was my fault for not noticing the extra screw that came with the mod 
Something less awesome. A 1mm gap between the switch and the tube. This is using Efest 18350 batteries.
Something less awesome. A 1mm gap between the switch and the tube. This is using Efest 18350 batteries.
Last edited:
The plastic insulator of the positive post isn't in its place or the telescopic post is fully extended. Please, show me the bottom of the top cap.
Last edited:
EDIT: Turns out this gap was my fault for not noticing the extra screw that came with the mod
This is what it looks like when I get the gap between the switch and the tube (or top-cap and the tube, for that matter. Just depends on what I screw in first). I can clearly see the insulator not being all the way in:
If I remove the atty and screw the insulator/post all the way in first, removing the gaps on the mod itself, I get a gap between the atty and the top-cap. This is the same for all my atties and cartos. As shown here:
The latter removes the gap from the mod itself, but wont let me screw anything on there flush, leaving the same sized gap. And i kinda hate gaps, unfortunately. Am I missing something or is this the way it is?
This is what it looks like when I get the gap between the switch and the tube (or top-cap and the tube, for that matter. Just depends on what I screw in first). I can clearly see the insulator not being all the way in:
If I remove the atty and screw the insulator/post all the way in first, removing the gaps on the mod itself, I get a gap between the atty and the top-cap. This is the same for all my atties and cartos. As shown here:
The latter removes the gap from the mod itself, but wont let me screw anything on there flush, leaving the same sized gap. And i kinda hate gaps, unfortunately. Am I missing something or is this the way it is?
Last edited:
This is what it looks like when I get the gap between the switch and the tube (or top-cap and the tube, for that matter. Just depends on what I screw in first). I can clearly see the insulator not being all the way in:
If I remove the atty and screw the insulator/post all the way in first, removing the gaps on the mod itself, I get a gap between the atty and the top-cap. This is the same for all my atties and cartos. As shown here:
The latter removes the gap from the mod itself, but wont let me screw anything on there flush, leaving the same sized gap. And i kinda hate gaps, unfortunately. Am I missing something or is this the way it is?
The two screws move independently of each other. Screw the insulator all the way in, screw on your atty, tighten the bigger screw, then loosen the smaller screw to meet the button of the battery.
It's not how it should be.
Our v2.5 Paps r flush fit with the batteries & attys. As per ur pics it does look that ur telescopic post is NOT well IN. Is the positive pin of ur atty jutting out?
This is what it looks like when I get the gap between the switch and the tube (or top-cap and the tube, for that matter. Just depends on what I screw in first). I can clearly see the insulator not being all the way in:
If I remove the atty and screw the insulator/post all the way in first, removing the gaps on the mod itself, I get a gap between the atty and the top-cap. This is the same for all my atties and cartos. As shown here:
The latter removes the gap from the mod itself, but wont let me screw anything on there flush, leaving the same sized gap. And i kinda hate gaps, unfortunately. Am I missing something or is this the way it is?
As it seems you have the v2.5 telescopic post. You must have a third screw with 1,2 mm head to put over the other one, you got 3 screws total, isn't that right? Your order is #7477, you should have received 3 screws.
The GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.5 consists of:
1x M3 brass male screw with 1,2 mm head.
1x M3 brass male screw with 2,2 mm head.
1x M5 brass male screw, with 6,6 mm length and M3 female threads
1x PEEK II thermoplastic insulator reinforced with glass fibres for stiffness and durability, FDA approved.
Last edited:
Yes, please post a picture of the 510 connection on the atomizer.
I facepalmed when I read this and checked if I had recieved a third 1mm screw. Because I had. Stupid brain, focusing on the shiny mod and not noticing the extra screw. Its all sitting perfectly flush now and performing fantastically. Please dont yell at me
I'll edit my previous posts with a note saying it was user error
I face-palmed when I read this and checked if I had received a third 1mm screw. Because I had. Stupid brain, focusing on the shiny mod and not noticing the extra screw. Its all sitting perfectly flush now and performing fantastically. Please dont yell at me
I'll edit my previous posts with a note saying it was user error
Our screws are minuscule, I loose them, while they are just in front of my eyes, I perfectly understand what shinytis can do, I am a mod addict myself
Give me a sec to post new photos. I've talked about SnP 23 mm till now, but nothing changes for the SnP 22 mm, I have to explain, wait a minute.
Last edited:
Above is a SnP tank in exploded view. It can have any configuration you may like. It can be filled easily and there is an extra pro ring for a seamless integration with Provari. This ring will be available as a separate product. The SnP tank will have 2 editions, a SnP with 23 mm OD and one with 22 mm OD. Each edition will have extra cover rings from the other edition as an option during the sale.
excellent dude 
i also really like the SS gp drip tip... whats the long black delrin for?
i also really like the SS gp drip tip... whats the long black delrin for?
excellent dude
I believe that will let you change out the carto without emptying the tank
excellent dude
Cartodriver
We call it Cartodriver.
It's useful, when we want to change the cartomizer or the resistance of the Diver and we want to keep the liquid inside sealed. It protects also the o-rings during the change of the cartomizer.
It will be included with the SnP carto tank and as a spare as well.
I still don't get it Perseas... Which one is the 22mm SnP? No.1 or No.2?
Dumb that I am
Dumb that I am
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
