GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 1

[perseas]

The release of GP PAPS X will be postponed for 15-20 days at least. The reason is that we have added 2 extra treatments of the final product, one improves the threading and the texture of the surface and the other makes the surface scratch resistant. GP PAPS X will come in brushed finish and polished finish.

The same 2 processes will be applied to the upcoming GP Spheroid 2.1 batches while the improved threading will appear also to GP PAPS v2.1 big batch.

The telescopic posts will be available the next 3-4 days in adequate quantities to support the owners of GP PAPS v1, v2 and GP Piccolo v1, v2 who wish to improve the conductivity of their mods.

A super mini batch of GP PAPS v2.1 is imminent the next 3-4 days and a big batch will follow on March.

 

[Amirite]

The draw will become tight if you don't clean the base's interior periodically due to the fact that the base works an e-liquid collector tank.
Use cir clip pliers, put them into the holes of the base and turn CLOCKWISE to unscrew the base in order to clean it inside.

Ah circlip pliers! I thought that was a typo but Google tells me it's real

 

[speedemon]

Anyone looking for a tool go to Menards if you have one look for mini snap ring pliers i got a set of 4 in a package they fit and work perfect for bottom cap removal they fit holes perfect.I was having issues with 1 of mine took it appart cleaned up insides(needed) now good contact and like new.The spheroid v2 up has no wires to wory about i do like the design easy to work on once you take it appart.The bottom of the spheroid v2 up needs to be turn CLOCKWISE for removal.

 

[Amirite]

Anyone looking for a tool go to Menards if you have one look for mini snap ring pliers i got a set of 4 in a package they fit and work perfect for bottom cap removal they fit holes perfect.I was having issues with 1 of mine took it appart cleaned up insides(needed) now good contact and like new.The spheroid v2 up has no wires to wory about i do like the design easy to work on once you take it appart.The bottom of the spheroid v2 up needs to be turned COUNTERCLOCK WISE for removal.

You sir should make a video. Of all the videos on the Spheroid, none of them show how to take apart the base. Most people probably assume those two holes are for cooling/air flow.

 

[DaFreeK]

You sir should make a video. Of all the videos on the Spheroid, none of them show how to take apart the base. Most people probably assume those two holes are for cooling/air flow.

Here you go GP SPHEROID SS V.2 New Base - YouTube

 

[speedemon]

You sir should make a video. Of all the videos on the Spheroid, none of them show how to take apart the base. Most people probably assume those two holes are for cooling/air flow.

I would but i can't even take a non blury pic with camera.The mini snapring pliers do work great fit perfect in the 2 bottom holes and you won't scratch it up like other tools might.Also the top cap many seem to have issues i never use a tool to take it off not needed.I use those round rubber gripper pads most of us have in kitchen for opening jars and i can take it on and off with ease then.

 

[synic]

What does the name Paps come from?

 

[Amirite]

Here you go GP SPHEROID SS V.2 New Base - YouTube

Thanks dafreek. I was a little confused because there seems to be differing opinions on which direction to rotate. (It's Clockwise) Probably should have listened to Perseus.

 

[perseas]

What does the name Paps come from?

It is an abbreviation of Pappas the surname of my partner.

 

[synic]

The release of GP PAPS X will be postponed for 15-20 days at least. The reason is that we have added 2 extra treatments of the final product, one improves the threading and the texture of the surface and the other makes the surface scratch resistant. GP PAPS X will come in brushed finish and polished finish.

The same 2 processes will be applied to the upcoming GP Spheroid 2.1 batches while the improved threading will appear also to GP PAPS v2.1 big batch.

The telescopic posts will be available the next 3-4 days in adequate quantities to support the owners of GP PAPS v1, v2 and GP Piccolo v1, v2 who wish to improve the conductivity of their mods.

A super mini batch of GP PAPS v2.1 is imminent the next 3-4 days and a big batch will follow on March.

Can you explain what you mean by improved threading? Will older GP parts still work with these? What was wrong with the old threading?

 

[perseas]

Can you explain what you mean by improved threading?

The threading is one of the most important things in the mods, as all we know. A loose threading can lower the conductivity, make the unit misfire etc. We are in a constant process of improvement of our mods in their way of machining, materials used, different types of SS etc. The first GP PAPS mods made from aluminium for the domestic market, then from 303 SS grade, now they are from 304 SS grade certified German steel. The plastic insulators of the top cap were simple plastic, now they are made from PEEK material, FDA improved, type II reinforced with glass fibers in order not to be deformed under heave use. PEEK is a linear aromatic polymer which is semi-crystalline and is widely regarded as the highest performance thermoplastic material.

We treat the whole mod with an extra process to make the threading almost polished, while we keep it tight with a tolerance that gets smaller in every new batch because we are perfecting our machining continuously.

Will older GP parts still work with these?

Of course they will, we haven't changed the size of the threads in order to support the owners of the previous versions.

What was wrong with the old threading?

When we started to make our mods, back on September of 2011, the whole process was very simple just with a small lathe to cover the needs of the Hellenic forum's members. The first units were from aluminium, which tend after some time passes, to have scratchy threading due to their soft nature. Add the fact that the precision level of a small lathe cannot be compared with a CNC machine's one .
The next units were made from 303 SS which is easily dented and scratched and the threading is average due to the softness of this grade.

So the answer in a nutshell is that nothing was wrong, it is a time procession where all things get better, if the modders pay attention to people's feedback and the demand permits the use of better materials and better machines, and a last note, we are keeping our reasonable prices almost the same the whole time.

 

[synic]

Here's the Paps lookin sexy with an IGO-L and a BSD90 from Captivape:

 

[speedemon]

Thanks dafreek. I was a little confused because there seems to be differing opinions on which direction to rotate. (It's Clockwise) Probably should have listened to Perseus.

Yes it is clockwise to get off i said it wrong at 1st my bad don't know whay i was thinking that it is the opisite of the way you losen usualy so i don't know what i was thinking

 

[Amirite]

Thank you so much Perseas... will try it.

Huffel. Did you get the piccolo to fire? I finally received some batteries today (love how quickly they charge) and mine appears to have a similar issue. Tried 4 different atomizers. Is there a lock switch for the button that needs to be released?

 

[perseas]

Here is the parts of GP Piccolo v3:

At first screw the atomizer on the top cap, then adjust the positive post to make contact with the 510 pin of the atomizer. After that, screw them both to the main body of the Piccolo.

The negative post of the New Piccolo is adjustable and it has to be adjusted according the user's preference for the travel of the button.
At the moment we recommend only AW IMR 14500 batteries because the EFEST v2 don't follow the specifications of the 14500 size, their nipples protrude too much.

The switch locks by turning the button counterclockwise. Make sure that the whole switch is well screwed inside the main body. Check if the thin base of the switch that has a concave shape is hidden inside the tube when you are adjusting the negative post and make sure the holding nut is tightened firmly.

 

[Amirite]

Here is the parts of GP Piccolo v3:


At first screw the atomizer on the top cap, then adjust the positive post to make contact with the 510 pin of the atomizer. After that, screw them both to the main body of the Piccolo.

The negative post of the New Piccolo is adjustable and it has to be adjusted according the user's preference for the travel of the button.
At the moment we recommend only AW IMR 14500 batteries because the EFEST v2 don't follow the specifications of the 14500 size, their nipples protrude too much.

The switch locks by turning the button counterclockwise. Make sure that the whole switch is well screwed inside the main body. Check if the thin base of the switch that has a concave shape is hidden inside the tube when you are adjusting the negative post and make sure the holding nut is tightened firmly.

This help tremendously. Thanks Perseus.

 

[JCB1]

Perseas,

Spheroid 2.1 this week? I'm afraid to miss this

 

[synic]

Perseas,

Another annoying question for you. Often times when I'm tightening the thumb nuts on the Spheroid, it will undesirably pull or push the coil, causing problems like coils not touching the wick, or coils being too tight for wicking. Because of these problems, I often have to redo a coil several times before I get it right.

I was thinking that a couple of stainless steel washers under the nuts would help this tremendously, but being the noob I am, I'm not sure what size of washers to get. Can you give me an idea?

Thanks!

 

[perseas]

Perseas,

Spheroid 2.1 this week? I'm afraid to miss this

Yes, in 2-4 days time, I'll post a notice earlier of course and it will be 4-6 hours sooner than the previous time to be easier for the people in the States.

 

[perseas]

Perseas,

Another annoying question for you. Often times when I'm tightening the thumb nuts on the Spheroid, it will undesirably pull or push the coil, causing problems like coils not touching the wick, or coils being too tight for wicking. Because of these problems, I often have to redo a coil several times before I get it right.

I was thinking that a couple of stainless steel washers under the nuts would help this tremendously, but being the noob I am, I'm not sure what size of washers to get. Can you give me an idea?

Thanks!

There aren't annoying questions mate

I wouldn't recommend to lift the coil with washers, from the position is placed already, that would affect the draw and it might diminish the flavour and the vapour production.

To avoid struggling the coil or loosening it, it is best to put it diagonally among the posts, having shape it with the help of a needle, until you are used to wrap it by hand. I used to be a vey heavy smoker for many years and I was smoking rolling tobaccos. After the second month I could roll a perfect cigarette in seconds. I believe the same thing applies to the coiling.

No matter how many instructions will be given, after some conscious attempts to make a perfect coil, a kinaesthetic memory is developing in the fingers, and every next coil is better from the previous one.

In this thread, see the previous pages, there are 2-3 methods of coiling, I have used them all and it is just a matter of preference, no need to put washers. But you can put them and prove me wrong, who knows ?