It's a bummer I wont be able to pick on of these up tonight, don't get paid until a week from tomorrow. When do you think the next batch will be ready?
- Status
Another order buddy. Be well....oh your going to send it to China to mess with me, I know it!
Just ordered a Paps with an extra 18500 tube but I forgot to get the flat cap... Any way I can pay for one without paying for shipping twice?
Either way I'm very excited! First high end mod (Best one I have is a natural...)
All taken care of! Perseas emailed me and will add it to my order, yay!
They sell when they are produced, so keep an eye on this thread, Facebook or Twitter. Advance notice of sales are posted.
perseas you were right on the money brother, it seems she had like a reservoir of old crusty juice inside there that just kept slowly leaking out, it wasnt actually coming out of the 510 it was coming out of the threads... it must have been in there for a while and maybe the hot water cleaning it loosened it up or something, anyways so she unscrewed the base and just stuck a paper towel, rolled-up into there and cleaned it untill she felt she got it all out... when I get home I;ll take the base apart and give it a real good cleaning, your right it has been a while. kinda says something for your products my freind, when youve got something thats filled with gunk, yet still works so well that she didnt even notice 
I also snagged a couple flat-tops, been wanting a flat-top paps for a while now
I also snagged a couple flat-tops, been wanting a flat-top paps for a while now
Vapour Art Store has restocked again the GP PAPS v2.1 brushed mods, flat top caps and GP Spheroid v2 brushed atomizers.
Last edited:
The telescopic posts are tight both ways, the insulator is all the way down, and the nut on the button sticks just slightly above it when the button is depressed. Still doing the same thing.
I'm going to grab some fine sandpaper after work today and hit the button a little bit...maybe that's my problem. Fingers crossed!
Another thing that has caused this to happen to me, is debris from my pocket getting into the threads of the lock ring, preventing it from screwing all the way up and unlocking completely. Although, it was only an issue when the button was in 'short throw mode'. I'm sure by now you have that whole thing clean as a whistle, but wanted to mention it, just in case.The telescopic posts are tight both ways, the insulator is all the way down, and the nut on the button sticks just slightly above it when the button is depressed. Still doing the same thing.
I'm going to grab some fine sandpaper after work today and hit the button a little bit...maybe that's my problem. Fingers crossed!
Last edited:
Only Using your PAPS for a few days, I doubt it is button related. UNLESS your delrin(black round plastic insert on switch) is not completely pressed into the switch. Take the button off, depress the button and make sure the brass nut extends just past the delrin when depressed. If it doesnt press the delrin in farhter. Also make sure your ring lock is completely disengaged when depressing button.The telescopic posts are tight both ways, the insulator is all the way down, and the nut on the button sticks just slightly above it when the button is depressed. Still doing the same thing.
I'm going to grab some fine sandpaper after work today and hit the button a little bit...maybe that's my problem. Fingers crossed!
When your PAPS is together, does the battery rattle a bit? What brand of batteries do you use? I ask because it could be that your telescopic post is not adjusted out correctly.
Put your Atty on top cap and then screw in the center post for contact with Atty post. Unscrew the telescopic center post so that it is long enough to contact the battery nipple and there is no battery rattle when the PAPS is assembled with battery.
Otherwise please take many pics and share...so we can diagnose and end your pain...and ours.
Last edited:
Alright so an update!
Cleaned and polished everything. Gave a light sand to contact points before cleaning and polishing. Then I pushed that delrin ring down as far as I could, and took apart the button completely. Turns out there was some black smudgy stuff around the locking ring and the button housing...no idea what it was. Cleaned that, cleaned all the threads really well (more black smudgy stuff) and put it all back together again.
I took your advice Idaho. Screwed my atty down tight to the cap, then tightened the upper screw to it, then adjusted the screw down until the battery was tight in the PAPS when together.
Then I tried it...............................
PERFECT!
I have my nipple top AW IMR 18650 in there now, so I have yet to try it with my flat top MNKEs or Efest 18350s, but as of right now the nipple top AW 650s are working great! Will have to see how the flat tops do after they're done charging but hopefully won't have any problems.
Can't thank everyone here enough, yall are great! TY SO MUCH!
edit - Forgot a question...when I'm vaping it the actual button spins some on my finger. Is this normal?
Cleaned and polished everything. Gave a light sand to contact points before cleaning and polishing. Then I pushed that delrin ring down as far as I could, and took apart the button completely. Turns out there was some black smudgy stuff around the locking ring and the button housing...no idea what it was. Cleaned that, cleaned all the threads really well (more black smudgy stuff) and put it all back together again.
I took your advice Idaho. Screwed my atty down tight to the cap, then tightened the upper screw to it, then adjusted the screw down until the battery was tight in the PAPS when together.
Then I tried it...............................
PERFECT!
I have my nipple top AW IMR 18650 in there now, so I have yet to try it with my flat top MNKEs or Efest 18350s, but as of right now the nipple top AW 650s are working great! Will have to see how the flat tops do after they're done charging but hopefully won't have any problems.
Can't thank everyone here enough, yall are great!
TY SO MUCH!edit - Forgot a question...when I'm vaping it the actual button spins some on my finger. Is this normal?
Makes me happy, Thats why we are here, to help each other. Perseas would of but I assume he is working his azz off.
Normal, just apply little pressure, relax and enjoy. You are an owner of a very beautiful high end mechanical. It's Art Brudda
Normal, just apply little pressure, relax and enjoy. You are an owner of a very beautiful high end mechanical. It's Art Brudda
Question... will the 2.1 Paps work w/ Genesis attys without the flat top? Ordered one this morning and didn't pay enough attention. Thanks for any advice.
... I went back and ordered one just in case.
... I went back and ordered one just in case.
Last edited:
Yes they work JUST fine. You'll just see some slots underneath your RBA.
lol. I ran back and ordered one sheesh. I'll probably appreciate having the spare anyway. Thanks for the answer!!!
Here's some information on my experience with the GP Paps 2.1 and mechanical fuses for those who are interested:
My preferred configuration is with the 18650 tube, an AW IMR 18650 battery, and a Holocron Labs ShortStop. With the center post screwed in all the way, without the removable screw, it fits perfectly - it's snug with no movement whatsoever. I put the fuse on the positive end of the battery with the nipples touching so the flat side of the fuse touches the center post.
The ShortStop doesn't fit well with the 18350 tube and an AW IMR 18350 battery as I cannot find a way to fit it in there with both caps completely screwed on - I see lots of threads. It's a tight fit, but I can fit in a Vape2Safe if I put it on the negative end of the battery with the nipple touching the battery and the flat side of the fuse making contact with the button. It's not perfect as I can see a very small gap if I look closely, but the Vape2Safe is definitely thinner than the ShortStop and fits pretty well with the 18350 tube.
My preferred configuration is with the 18650 tube, an AW IMR 18650 battery, and a Holocron Labs ShortStop. With the center post screwed in all the way, without the removable screw, it fits perfectly - it's snug with no movement whatsoever. I put the fuse on the positive end of the battery with the nipples touching so the flat side of the fuse touches the center post.
The ShortStop doesn't fit well with the 18350 tube and an AW IMR 18350 battery as I cannot find a way to fit it in there with both caps completely screwed on - I see lots of threads. It's a tight fit, but I can fit in a Vape2Safe if I put it on the negative end of the battery with the nipple touching the battery and the flat side of the fuse making contact with the button. It's not perfect as I can see a very small gap if I look closely, but the Vape2Safe is definitely thinner than the ShortStop and fits pretty well with the 18350 tube.
Alright so an update!
Cleaned and polished everything. Gave a light sand to contact points before cleaning and polishing. Then I pushed that delrin ring down as far as I could, and took apart the button completely. Turns out there was some black smudgy stuff around the locking ring and the button housing...no idea what it was. Cleaned that, cleaned all the threads really well (more black smudgy stuff) and put it all back together again.
I took your advice Idaho. Screwed my atty down tight to the cap, then tightened the upper screw to it, then adjusted the screw down until the battery was tight in the PAPS when together.
Then I tried it...............................
PERFECT!
I have my nipple top AW IMR 18650 in there now, so I have yet to try it with my flat top MNKEs or Efest 18350s, but as of right now the nipple top AW 650s are working great! Will have to see how the flat tops do after they're done charging but hopefully won't have any problems.
Can't thank everyone here enough, yall are great!
edit - Forgot a question...when I'm vaping it the actual button spins some on my finger. Is this normal?
Yes it's normal. The button is attached by the brass nut and not to the actual switch housing. It allows the button to freely move up and down when pressed. The button rotating is an a effect of the switch design and doesn't add any negative to the functionality of the mod. Just make sure you secure the brass nut tightly when assembling or the button can pop off. I lost a spring that way due to user error.
Loving the spheroid what's a good way to refill this thing without making a mess =D first time using a non clear tank so I have to keep checking if I'm out of juice :x
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
what's a good way to refill this thing without making a mess =D first time using a non clear tank so I have to keep checking if I'm out of juice :x Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Best way to fill is fill the fluf slowly then flick it like a thermometer to get juice down towards mouth end then put more juice in repeat until juice fluf stays wet on top after flicking.Loves my spheroids!
Last edited:
Just got my Paps from the latest batch almost 2 weeks now. When I first got it it was fine. Lately I've noticed it misfires and the button becomes hot. Same atty on a different mech mod no problem. Use other atties on Paps also same result. Strip, clean and even polished the contact still the same issue. Anybody experience this sort of problem?
Hello, Refer to my post 749.
If the button is getting warm please check the spring. Not much to check but remove and inspect. If you have a multi meter you cant test for failure. My knee jerk guess it that it is the spring. I would order a couple spares and pm Perseas. GL my friend
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
