Has anyone tried this, thoughts and advice
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Sorry, I didn't follow the link, found it and posted it. I was one of those on a buying frenzy, I picked up ten.
@CMD-Ky Practise is the key, soldering is not difficult to learn, although it is much easier if you have somebody on hand to show you and the correct tools for the job.
Most of the cheaper hobby irons are a hit and miss with regard to temperature. This coupled with inexperience can lead to a lot of frustration and mediocre results.
As you are starting out with no soldering kit at all it might just be easier to get somebody with the right skills and tools to do the job for you. You would probably get a better end result for less outlay.
If you do decide to DIY, pick up some multi-core lead based solder, it is much easier to work with. Lead frree takes a little more practise to get good solid results.
Soldering direct to SS 510's is difficult, try and use one with a brass or copper connection as this is easy to solder to.
Make sure you check the wiring with a meter once it's fully assembled in the case. A short circuit to the case, or a bridge between your solder joints could cause a problem.
Good luck!
Most of the cheaper hobby irons are a hit and miss with regard to temperature. This coupled with inexperience can lead to a lot of frustration and mediocre results.
As you are starting out with no soldering kit at all it might just be easier to get somebody with the right skills and tools to do the job for you. You would probably get a better end result for less outlay.
If you do decide to DIY, pick up some multi-core lead based solder, it is much easier to work with. Lead frree takes a little more practise to get good solid results.
Soldering direct to SS 510's is difficult, try and use one with a brass or copper connection as this is easy to solder to.
Make sure you check the wiring with a meter once it's fully assembled in the case. A short circuit to the case, or a bridge between your solder joints could cause a problem.
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips, I welcome them. This is a definite DIY project, I want a DNA squonker that I can work on top to bottom if it fails.
I am sure it will go well. Practise is the key. Once you get the hang of it soldering is pretty easy.
"Tin" the tip of the iron first, then the wires. Pass the wires through the PCB then heat both the wire and the pad at the same time. Keep the heat on for two or three seconds then push the solder into the joint whilst still applying the heat. It should run in fairly easily, if not the iron is not hot enough. Clean the joint off with a brush and some isopropranol afterwards.
If you use leaded solder the end result should be smooth and slightly concave. If you get it right you will have a nice bright looking joint. If it looks dull or has a ring around it, you have a "dry" joint that will probably not work for any length of time.
Any problems give me a shout and I will try to explain or help.
Good luck
Sorry, but I wish you wouldn't have started this thread. I watched his assembly video and now I want the DNA75c kit, lol. Thanks for putting something else on my shopping list. I've been behaving lately. 
Looks like the 75c kits are currently unavailable (cutout is out of stock)? I'm going to reach out to them and find out when it will be available again. I've got the Therion BF 75c, but I'd really like to have a DNA 75c 20700 squonker. I don't really use the Therion because I'm not real happy with the battery life of a single 18650, and I'm one of those folks who have torn pretty much every wrap trying to insert/remove them in the Therion.
This looks like it could be fun to assemble as well. I will need to practice up on my soldering. It's been a while, but this could be a very satisfying project.
Please keep us posted on how it goes, if you run into any issues, and of course, the final product.
Looks like the 75c kits are currently unavailable (cutout is out of stock)? I'm going to reach out to them and find out when it will be available again. I've got the Therion BF 75c, but I'd really like to have a DNA 75c 20700 squonker. I don't really use the Therion because I'm not real happy with the battery life of a single 18650, and I'm one of those folks who have torn pretty much every wrap trying to insert/remove them in the Therion.
This looks like it could be fun to assemble as well. I will need to practice up on my soldering. It's been a while, but this could be a very satisfying project.
Please keep us posted on how it goes, if you run into any issues, and of course, the final product.
A 20700 version of the 75C is not going to give you any longer run time than an 18650 75C.Sorry, but I wish you wouldn't have started this thread. I watched his assembly video and now I want the DNA75c kit, lol. Thanks for putting something else on my shopping list. I've been behaving lately.
Looks like the 75c kits are currently unavailable (cutout is out of stock)? I'm going to reach out to them and find out when it will be available again. I've got the Therion BF 75c, but I'd really like to have a DNA 75c 20700 squonker. I don't really use the Therion because I'm not real happy with the battery life of a single 18650, and I'm one of those folks who have torn pretty much every wrap trying to insert/remove them in the Therion.
This looks like it could be fun to assemble as well. I will need to practice up on my soldering. It's been a while, but this could be a very satisfying project.
Please keep us posted on how it goes, if you run into any issues, and of course, the final product.
It doesn't fit a 21700? That seems unfortunate. I mean you're building from scratch it's hard to imagine why they would make an enclosure that won't hold one.
Edit: @CMD-Ky this is when I misstge old Radio Shack. Easy to pick up a few dirt cheap boards just to practice on. The pcb is in some ways easier to actually solder to as it's made for that and it's been that way for decades but it's also the one with the greater risk of damaging the most expensive component. The 510 may be a little harder working with SS, but you're less likely to damage it even if you do run into problems.
Just go slow and if not sure stop and reconsider. If it's stumping you come back with photos. Sound group of people here to make useful suggestions.
Edit: @CMD-Ky this is when I misstge old Radio Shack. Easy to pick up a few dirt cheap boards just to practice on. The pcb is in some ways easier to actually solder to as it's made for that and it's been that way for decades but it's also the one with the greater risk of damaging the most expensive component. The 510 may be a little harder working with SS, but you're less likely to damage it even if you do run into problems.
Just go slow and if not sure stop and reconsider. If it's stumping you come back with photos. Sound group of people here to make useful suggestions.
Depending on vaping style and amperage requirement, I agree.
I usually vape at max of 32w. The Sanyo 20700B (4000+ mah) give me really good runtime in the Pulse 80w. Also the majority of a full day in my Mirage.
The Sanyo 2070C should be available soon, 3500mah and 30A I believe? That would help those needing higher current. I picked up a few Sanyo 20700A recently when I found them, and they don't provide much better runtime than an LG HG2. Of course at higher currents, they would outperform the HG2.
The 20700B is a great cell for my needs though. It gives me good runtime at lower wattages compared to any 18650 I've tried. It's an incredible cell for MTL vapers, or those of us using lower wattages for DTL. Best cell I've found for my vaping style.
I'm not sure about this, was going to ask this as well. Not sure if the sled/enclosure will take a 21700 as well. If the 20700 isn't too tight of a fit, I'll bet a 'smaller' 21700 will fit. Maybe a 40T. I will certainly try, lol.
Maybe it's a matter of just buying a different sled. They're not expensive and if the clearance is there, I'd do it. Even if I use an 18650 with an adapter I'm future proofing the mod for power source changes.
The secret is never let the positive scrap in and out. Taking them out, pull the negative side out while holding the positive side in place. Putting it in, neg first (part way in works better if it is tight) and compress the spring and drop the positive in place.
You are correct, I forgot about the Sanyo B's I have a pair that I don't regularly use.
Anybody have an email address where I can contact the guy at Analog Box Mods?
The DNA 75c cutouts are still out of stock, trying to find out when they will be back in. I've tried the 'contact us' option on the site a few times, but it errors out, not sure how else to reach them.
Thanks in advance
EDIT: Somebody here helped me out already with contact info. Thanks!!!
The DNA 75c cutouts are still out of stock, trying to find out when they will be back in. I've tried the 'contact us' option on the site a few times, but it errors out, not sure how else to reach them.
Thanks in advance
EDIT: Somebody here helped me out already with contact info. Thanks!!!
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If anyone else is interested in the DNA 75c squonk kits, he expects to have them back in stock in about two months. He has other enclosures in the works and is finalizing samples of those before he has the CNC folks do another production run.
If I didn't have an Inbox already, I would probably get the DNA 75 kit. Might go forward with it anyways while I'm waiting for the 75c to become available. That could be my 'training' kit.
If I didn't have an Inbox already, I would probably get the DNA 75 kit. Might go forward with it anyways while I'm waiting for the 75c to become available. That could be my 'training' kit.
Here's another BF enclosure option for a DNA75c, 2 options 18650 or 21700
Several nice enclosures here for reasonable prices
#florisbox DNA75C black delrin-21700 battery
Several nice enclosures here for reasonable prices
#florisbox DNA75C black delrin-21700 battery
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