HOHM Wrecker 151W TC ?

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f1vefour

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Interesting, hohm tech certainly could have handled that differently. I have a feeling a MAP was being violated though, even if accidentally.

I would still had tried to get my device fixed, it's not you're fault you paid too little. It was the vendors fault.

I actually want a larger device, I have two of the smallest single 18650 devices made and have large hands. It's funny how much people complain about it being a box but few did about the sigelei or ipv3. My cloupor mini+ is a simple box and it's great.
 
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350ZMO

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Have you tried doing the same thing with a mod in SS mode? What I mean is, take a kanthal build, adjust the temp in SS mode so the mod doesn't burn the cotton, but still produces vapor? To me, I don't see the difference, if the TC is not accurate you could do the same things with all the other mods you have.


I just loaded SS316L csv from steam engine into a DNA200, selected that profile and put a subtank with kanthal cartridge on it that I have been using with the wrecker this evening. The DNA will not go into temp control (display where temperature should be shows ---F) and just blindly fires full wattage as long as the button is pressed IE Kanthal VW mode. So yeah if I hadn't set the preheat, Kanthal limit and power setting to 50 before I did this, 200 would have been real ugly. As it was, 50 was too much. But the Wrecker backs off to 0 when the wick is dry with a Kanthal build. So to me that's a big difference and its not the same.
 

350ZMO

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I also use SS430 from unkamen. I should have the device tomorrow and can do a seat of the pants comparison but don't have a probe.

316L is the wire most commonly found in prebuilt coils.

If you don't already use SS there isn't really any reason to purchase any, other than the fact that it's great wire for TC and standard wattage/voltage alike.

Ok I ordered the 430 from unkamen.
 
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Tim Jenson

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Funny story about that actually... lol
One of the vendors online apparently put the first mod for sale at $80.50 and Hohm Tech started threatening a law suit. ehhh here's the post on reddit, it's actually an entertaining read if you are interested. Let's just say I bought mine for a million dollars with a discount..=D
Apology • /r/electronic_cigarette

I thought about calling or contacting them, but I figured it would be more trouble when I don't really use the mod anyways. It's big and it's a box if you have not noticed lol. I have big hands, but nothing about that mod is comfortable for me.

I watched 350's video and it only proved to me that the device could stop kanthal from burning. I could post a video with my evic-vtc in SS mode dry burning a kanthal coil with cotton in it and not burn it. That doesn't really prove anything to me, but I guess we have different ideas of what tc really offers.

Same here, I use SS and have no reason to use Kanthal besides my few mods that don't have SS temperature control. I just try to do my part by giving my opinion on a company/product that I feel is being dishonest. Somehow, I directed that anger towards some of you.. lol



I wouldn't recommend! :) lol
Let's say kanthal TC works perfectly, the box like shape would be a no go for many. I didn't think it was a big deal when I ordered mine because I never had a mod that big. After using my IPV D2 and Evic-vtc, no way am I going back to anything that big and uncomfortable. I agree and you do the same!

Good point I'm also looking at the new Vape Forward Vaper Flask Classic and the mini looks like those are great in the hand from what I'm hearing.
 

350ZMO

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Thanks for testing, the 28g is rigid/springy wire so I lightly torch it before wrapping.

My wrecker shipped out late (8pm) so it will be Monday before I get it. I hate when vendors do that.

Well...several things I'd like to say. Most importantly, I look forward to your experiences with it.

Sometimes I jump into a thread and people don't know where I am coming from so I wanted to illuminate.

I receive no money from any vaping product company or anything vaping related whatsoever. The only gain I receive from vaping is my own personal well being, both in harm reduction and just simply enjoying the hobby. A hobby that has supported itself through the thousands I have saved from not buying smokes and chew over the last three years. So my only vested interest is better vaping.

I like the different mods I have for different reasons, I have given away a bunch, some that were simply outdated or that I didn't like. We all have our different likes and dislikes and that's just peachy.

I don't harp on vaping, everyone has to make their own choices and I let them come to me if and when they are ready. I have equipped my adult grandchildren and nephews with vaping gear. I was very happy when they did come to me. My wife however, does not like vaping so she still smokes. But I do not and will not push it. We all have to make our own choices. And that's just peachy.

I know first hand how difficult it is to dispel myth. Once started they are nearly impossible to eradicate. And although my name isn't Don Quixote, sometimes I see him in the mirror. So I try real hard not to start any. Certainly not intentionally. I remember we did a test once and reported to the boss the findings. We repeated the test and found a complete opposite finding. When I reported that to the boss he asked how that could be. Since he had a great sense of humor I replied, it's not that we lie, it's that the truth keeps changing. He got a kick out of that and later used the phrase himself. Both findings were "facts". But together they did not illuminate "the truth". We needed more facts. The point is, one test may be worth a thousand words but I certainly don't "hang my hat on it". It takes many tests, many runs, controlling many parameters and knowing which ones you are changing under that control to discover "the truth".

I have had bad experiences with several companies on all kinds of products where others have not. It is frustrating and aggravating when you get a bad product. Bad things happen, we can't stop that. What is more important is how we deal with it. Because I know how difficult new products and development is, I expect well established companies to deal with problems correctly and while new starts may go through a learning curve, they actually have to do better out of the gate with dealing with problems. IE customer service. Nothing can damage their business more than poor customer service. I have boycotted products and companies before based on my experiences and I encourage all to make their own choices. I do not however, post or rant about them. If I am asked, I do offer opinions. But I prefer to prove through test.

The reason I post and share is to help. I have no other agenda. If other folks find different facts or even opinions then post them up. It all helps and adds to the body of knowledge.

Towards that end, the G2 is important to me and my vaping quest specifically for Kanthal. A fact is, I have other mods that do other metals just fine for my tastes. But I am happy to help test the G2 with other metals for fellow vapers.

I have been vaping the G2 with a subtank for about a day. This morning it failed to limit. And I am working on a video to upload showing that. I don't know why. Just like I don't why it did limit in the first video. What I do know and can prove is that it has done both. Successfully limited and Failed to limit.

First it vaped great all the way to the tank being nearly empty. However I had to constantly fiddle with it. If I sat it down to gather and take out the trash then picked it up to vape it would not produce any vapor. So I would raise temperature and it would vape. At that point I lowered power to 30W for some protection and went back into Kanthal temperature mode. And repeated many times. Let cool, wouldn't vape, up the temp, vaped, sat and let cool. The temperature setting kept escalating. So then I started changing the FSK percentage. And repeated that many times. Let cool, no vapor, increased FSK, vaped, sat and let cool. When the tank was nearly empty I emptied it and did a test on video. It failed to limit as the build dried up and went straight to burning without the pulsating action.

I did notice a couple of things with that subtank experience. I could change FSK curve all the way from zero to 100% and get it to vape when the tank was warmed up from vaping. As the tank warmed up from vaping, so did the taste so I started lowering the FSK or Temp setting. I could find many combinations that produced vapor at any given tank warmth.

I rebuilt the Kanger coil and vaped it and right now sitting here typing this it has cooled. I pick the tank up and it will not vape. 450F, 54%. I up the temp to 460F no vapor, up to 470F and I get vapor, take three puffs then lower to 450F and puff and the taste is fine. Then just mashed the button for 5s and it did not pulsate. No inhale just 5s fire. Let go then try to puff, inhale and fire, and no vapor production but a bad taste from residual vapor left from the 5s fire. Increase temp to 470 and it vapes, then lower it back to 450 and it vapes. Then again fire for 5s no inhale, it doesn't puslate let go then try a puff and only residual vapor from the 5s fire and a bad taste. I can repeat this ad nausea. When it does vape at 450F I can lower to 420F and it stops producing vapor.

Ok so now I let it set at 450F and let cool. Pick it back up and no vapor. This time I increase KSL 2% at a time until it produces vapor. It started producing vapor at 58%. So now I let it sit and cool. Pick it back up and no vapor. Again increase KSL by 2 and it starts producing vapor at 60%. Let it cool again. Pick it back up and now it vapes. Ok so now I'll let it cool for 20 minutes. Pick it back up and no vape. Increase KSL to 64% it vapes. Let cool, no vape, increase to 66% and it vapes. Let cool for 20 minutes. Pick up and it does vape. But not pulsating if I long fire yielding a burnt vape taste.

The factory cartridge was .5ohm though I did notice the wrecker had jumped to .61ohm when I did the second video. My rebuild is sitting at .89 ohm. Also the tank does build up a vacuum and juice flow decreases. As it sits, that gives time for juice to wick.

I would really like to understand what is going on but I cant wrap my head around it. Too many variables and not knowing how it works. I have demonstrated it does work and that it doesn't. I'm sure it is something I'm doing wrong but I don't get it yet.

Hopefully you will be able to illuminate next week when you get yours.

If Hohm Tech is reading this thread, you have an email from me already, please send me an email and a little 411.

Edit: Update - it was the center post in the subtank base causing the problem.
 
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edyle

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First it vaped great all the way to the tank being nearly empty. However I had to constantly fiddle with it. If I sat it down to gather and take out the trash then picked it up to vape it would not produce any vapor. So I would raise temperature and it would vape. At that point I lowered power to 30W for some protection and went back into Kanthal temperature mode. And repeated many times. Let cool, wouldn't vape, up the temp, vaped, sat and let cool. The temperature setting kept escalating. So then I started changing the FSK percentage. And repeated that many times. Let cool, no vapor, increased FSK, vaped, sat and let cool. When the tank was nearly empty I emptied it and did a test on video. It failed to limit as the build dried up and went straight to burning without the pulsating action.

I believe what is happening is
because the tcr of kanthal is so small
the small variances in ohms caused at the connection points such as the points on the positive and negative screws that screw down the coil legs
are big enough to make a mess of the small changes in ohms that the mod is trying to measure.

Trying to measure ohms on a coil with wet contact points can't help either.
 

350ZMO

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I believe what is happening is
because the tcr of kanthal is so small
the small variances in ohms caused at the connection points such as the points on the positive and negative screws that screw down the coil legs
are big enough to make a mess of the small changes in ohms that the mod is trying to measure.

Trying to measure ohms on a coil with wet contact points can't help either.

Well I thought of that but do we know for sure it is using TCR?
 

f1vefour

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I read the G2 has a weaker spring loaded 510, couple that with an atomizer that has a floating center pin like the UD Zephyrus and I can't imagine it being a stable connection for kanthal TC. I don't have a subtank so I don't know if this applies to it.

I have small issues with the Zephyrus from time to time in SS temp control on a weak spring loaded 510, not so much on a strong spring loaded connection.
 

Can I Bum One

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I actually want a larger device, I have two of the smallest single 18650 devices made and have large hands. It's funny how much people complain about it being a box but few did about the sigelei or ipv3. My cloupor mini+ is a simple box and it's great.

All personal preference for sure, I think most people prefer something that's small enough to carry in their pockets. The ipv3 and sigeli remind me of muscle cars, they are big and hold a lot of power and some people look for those qualities. If we look at design/ergonomics progression for things we hold & carry in our hands, rectangles and squares are not on the top of that list. :)





I just loaded SS316L csv from steam engine into a DNA200, selected that profile and put a subtank with kanthal cartridge on it that I have been using with the wrecker this evening. The DNA will not go into temp control (display where temperature should be shows ---F) and just blindly fires full wattage as long as the button is pressed IE Kanthal VW mode. So yeah if I hadn't set the preheat, Kanthal limit and power setting to 50 before I did this, 200 would have been real ugly. As it was, 50 was too much. But the Wrecker backs off to 0 when the wick is dry with a Kanthal build. So to me that's a big difference and its not the same.

Ahh ok, sounds like the DNA 200 will auto detect kanthal and auto correct to power mode (I don't have one)? That's not a fault of the device really I guess lol. I have an IPV-D2 and it doesn't have step down, so I started using the Nickel TC to adjust power levels on kanthal. After playing around, I noticed some temp settings would allow me to vape on kanthal without burning my cotton.

It sounds like you enjoy playing with it, so that's a plus right! :)
 

Can I Bum One

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I read the G2 has a weaker spring loaded 510, couple that with an atomizer that has a floating center pin like the UD Zephyrus and I can't imagine it being a stable connection for kanthal TC. I don't have a subtank so I don't know if this applies to it.

I have small issues with the Zephyrus from time to time in SS temp control on a weak spring loaded 510, not so much on a strong spring loaded connection.

I can comment based on my v1. I can't use my Subtank mini, EPHRO Backelor, Lemo 2, or my Crown tank with that mod because of the weak 510 pin.
 

f1vefour

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I will definitely be looking at increasing the 510 tension if it gives me a problem, thanks for the input.

It's just poor design to have a floating positive pin on atomizers, it should screw into something. They all cause problems of varying degrees when trying to use them in temperature control, with some the problem isn't noticeable unless you pay attention.

For accuracy a dripper or RTA with non-removable build deck are best, the less complicated the better. Such as old two post drippers or things with the velocity style deck.
 
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