HOHM Wrecker 151W TC ?

[f1vefour]

I wonder why 316L worked with the dry coil thermocouple test but 430 doesn't, but when actually vaping 430 it appears to be fairly accurate on the G2.

It would be messy as all get out but I wonder what would happen if you dripped VG on the wick the thermocouple is inserted in while testing SS430.

 

[350ZMO]

I wonder why 316L worked with the dry coil thermocouple test but 430 doesn't, but when actually vaping 430 it appears to be fairly accurate on the G2.

It would be messy as all get out but I wonder what would happen if you dripped VG on the wick the thermocouple is inserted in while testing SS430.

Good thought, but I don't know how to control the drip rate accurately and long enough to overcome the thermal mass of the thermocouple probe to let the temperature stabilize for an accurate reading. And, VG burns so strictly a yard experiment. Another thought was to dunk a coil in an insulated bottle of liquid. I measured the TCR of vapin donuts this way. But I used mineral oil so not sure if that would be valid, plus its not the same as a wet wick around a coil or vice versa. So I've been looking at CDS sensors and there are some that have a decent response in the IR range but the best ones are just too expensive so I would have to make calibration runs on a cheap one with a dna and make the assumption that whatever IR wavelengths it was sensitive to there would be no difference from build to build. And I would need one of these inside an atty, which is doable, but then I wonder about accuracy when it's window gets covered in vapor.

Who knows, maybe I'll get bored enough to try one or all of these ideas. For now though, I'm gonna rig up the 25mm VCMT that just came in vape mail. I have been enjoying the 30mm on the G2 so much...I gotta see what the 25 will be like.

 

[f1vefour]

Enjoy that VCMT

 

[350ZMO]

I sure am now that I have a dual coil that is limiting. Thomas was right the coils have to fire exactly the same. Just a little off don't cut it.

 

[f1vefour]

I sure am now that I have a dual coil that is limiting. Thomas was right the coils have to fire exactly the same. Just a little off don't cut it.

That certainly makes sense, kanthal is definitely going to be super sensitive to every little thing.

 

[350ZMO]

That certainly makes sense, kanthal is definitely going to be super sensitive to every little thing.

Yeah it's because of the EPT. My dual Ni or SS builds that are not real balanced using TCR don't do that, the vape temp will not be accurate but it won't go to the point of burning 100VG juice. Whatever the EPT does I don't know, but I'm guessing it will sense the cool coil and think everything is hunky dory continuing to throw power.

I really appreciate the EPT valuation lock and reset features in the test software HT sent to us. They should release those live. I don't pay attention to the battery display and I don't use the ohms lock so you and others will have to comment on those fixes. As far as the 1.5% sensitivity increase, its not that I am ungrateful for any improvements made for any product, but 15% is going to be more noticeable to me than 1.5%. But I'm sure every little bit helps.

I am enjoying the G2 and have found it to be very versatile handling 316L, 430, Ni, Ti temperature control and Kanthal temperature limiting with single and dual coil builds.

Maybe the next big jump for Kanthal will come when/if they deliver "Future updates will further fine tune and go to 10,000th position of accuracy". I would like it to get to the point I can call it temperature control with Kanthal.

The biggest tech tip I have learned comes with dual parallel Kanthal builds. They do have to be balanced. Only way I know how to do that is dry fire and glow the coils then manipulating until they both start glowing the same amount same number of wraps at the same time.

Right now this 25mm VCMT limits at 350F but raising to 360F and it will not limit. FSK set to 66% and 26G Kanthal dual build resistance is .46ohm. I cannot say the vape experience is 360F, it's in the 400's somewhere. And that seems to be the case even if I lower the FSK and increase the set temp the vape experience at the point it just fires tastes like it's in the 400s. The 400s vape experience happens with the Hurricane single coil build also. However, the single coil doesn't stop limiting just because I raise it 10 degrees. I'm guessing that's because the duals aren't perfectly balanced again. But the G2 will limit Kanthal if fine tuned. And I do appreciate that.

Personally I wouldn't market it as the 007 of mods. And I like Bond movies. Instead, I would market its current versatility. I might even be tempted to call it the swiss army knife of mods in the future if the EPT and Psycoil get an order of magnitude better in accuracy.

 

[350ZMO]

Got a response from HT, the firmware currently disables 3S but they should be offering it in the near future.

 

[f1vefour]

I don't use resistance lock either but I can see an instance where it would be useful, if you are leaving a warm room to go out in the cold locking the resistance will keep the device from giving a weak vape when the coil gets cold.

I can't understand the battery display, I still don't know if it's accurate since these 30Qs are new with only a single charge to them. After I cycle them a few times I will comment further.

Have you emailed hohm tech with your thoughts @350ZMO?

To let them know that the firmware is performing adequately and you have tested it under various wires and builds.

I'm still sick and can barely vape, it's why the 30Q's haven't been cycled even once, they are showing 80% after being in the device for a week. I think I have vaped about 8ml on them. My testing is very limited and specific, can't recommend the firmware with any certainty like you. I do appreciate the screen stays bright for two seconds longer but I want it to be adjustable.

 

[350ZMO]

Yes I have. You? Sorry to hear you are still sick, hope you get to feeling better soon.

 

[f1vefour]

Yes I have. You? Sorry to hear you are still sick, hope you get to feeling better soon.

Thanks, slowly but surely getting well.

I haven't emailed them yet, I should but just haven't been able to test anything really.

Everything seems to work as it should, but my issue with the battery display could be my battery. I don't have a multimeter but I have a small 3 segment voltage display, I just now connected it to both batteries individually while in the mod to see what they were showing under load. One wasn't dropping under load, the other was sagging badly.

Could you test this on you're device? I need to know if it's the battery sagging or the device drawing more amperage from one of the batteries. I'm hoping it's the battery but I don't think it is.

 

[f1vefour]

I just swapped the batteries position and it isn't doing it (according to my display, the G2 display still shows it), so it looks like it may be one of my batteries.

 

[350ZMO]

Yes I'll test but that sounds like one is bad there should be nearly equal, not exactly, drop in series. Now every battery isn't exactly identical but the drops should be close not far apart.

3.56 to 3.32
3.56 to 3.37

Ordinary green label batteries. 45W .62ohms yields 8.5A.

 

[f1vefour]

I'm hoping it's one of the batteries, when I cycle them a couple of times I will know more.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

@350ZMO I have an update on the SS 430. I just built some new coils and lightly torched the wire before building with a BIC lighter (just got it to glow and moved on). I really like the results (I think it was you who was saying they were thinking of torching it), reminded me of building with Kanthal.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[f1vefour]

@350ZMO I have an update on the SS 430. I just built some new coils and lightly torched the wire before building with a BIC lighter (just got it to glow and moved on). I really like the results (I think it was you who was saying they were thinking of torching it), reminded me of building with Kanthal.

Cheers,
Steve

Yep, that's exactly how I build with SS430.

Heat with a BIC and it takes all the springiness out.

For single coil I like to twist two strands, gives me slightly better flavor and more power handling.

 

[350ZMO]

Your posts got me to thinking.

Bottom line, its not necessary to glow wire that has any appreciable TCR to get a dual coil to work in temperature control. For the Kanthal duals, I just don't know any other method to get them perfectly balanced so the G2 will limit. With TCR wire, duals don't have to be as accurately balanced, they may not be temperature accurate but they wont go to the point of cracking e-liquid unless they are way out of wack. But yes hot annealing does help lower the springiness. The problem is we do it in air - oxygen. So...we are driving off carbon and soaking in oxygen, decarburization and oxidation. To maintain mechanical properties, professional annealing ovens will either use a vacuum or gas. So why do we care?

I wondered if dry burning, torching or glowing or high temperatures just short of glowing the 430 might affect it's performance.

So I did a test.

I think this helps explain why my thermocouple tests were off with the 430.

 

[f1vefour]

Good thinking, I knew that tempering the 430 would throw off the accuracy but didn't know how much.

I only glow it once to make sure it's firing correctly and see no way around it, I will risk a bit of accuracy over a hot leg on a tank.

I will try a build on an RDA though to get more accuracy.

 

[Wingsfan0310]

Your posts got me to thinking.

Bottom line, its not necessary to glow wire that has any appreciable TCR to get a dual coil to work in temperature control. For the Kanthal duals, I just don't know any other method to get them perfectly balanced so the G2 will limit. With TCR wire, duals don't have to be as accurately balanced, they may not be temperature accurate but they wont go to the point of cracking e-liquid unless they are way out of wack. But yes hot annealing does help lower the springiness. The problem is we do it in air - oxygen. So...we are driving off carbon and soaking in oxygen, decarburization and oxidation. To maintain mechanical properties, professional annealing ovens will either use a vacuum or gas. So why do we care?

I wondered if dry burning, torching or glowing or high temperatures just short of glowing the 430 might affect it's performance.

So I did a test.

I think this helps explain why my thermocouple tests were off with the 430.

I watched your video. I only lightly torched the 430 with a Bic lighter to make it less springy in order to make it easier to work with. I use DNA200's. After building it, I hooked it up to the device monitor and didn't notice a difference. Of course it's only going by the TCR and not actually measuring temperature like you were. I only lightly torched it, not like dry burning it, maybe that's why I didn't notice a difference in the vape. Your results are interesting nonetheless.

As for cutting my wire, I use Billow V2's and UD Bellus's. The only time I've ever had my wire chop was when I used 28ga Ni200. That stuff will cut if you look at if funny lol. I've taken my post screws out and sanded the bottoms on other atomizers that were a problem in the past. Must have got lucky with the Billows and Bellus's.

Thanks for taking the time to make the video buddy, very much appreciated .

Cheers,
Steve

 

[f1vefour]

My son has some kind of velocity style deck dripper that has a kanthal build in it, I tried it in TC mode and came to the conclusion rather quickly that it's too fidgety for me.

I set the cotton on fire twice but did get it dialed in, while it does work at limiting I will not be using this feature unless it matures. Of course I didn't purchase the G2 for kanthal TC so to me it's just an additional feature, not my primary concern.

You have to really want it to find the sweet spot for kanthal without using a temperature probe.

 

[hazozita]

Long, but interesting follow-up video from Phil with an interview with Tim from HT.