Ok I just checked at the website where I bought the fused claptons and it said in the descriptions that it's A1 Kanthal, 2 28ga Kanthal wire for core, and 32 Kanthal wrapped around it. So yes I guess its all Kanthal.
HOHM Wrecker 151W TC ?
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Ok I just checked at the website where I bought the fused claptons and it said in the descriptions that it's A1 Kanthal, 2 28ga Kanthal wire for core, and 32 Kanthal wrapped around it. So yes I guess its all Kanthal.
twisted420 was using dual kanthal claptons and it was limiting for him, I wonder why it won't for you.
I purchased the G2 for the exact opposite reason you stated about the dna, I don't want to plug my device into a PC to use it with different wires. Luckily I don't care about kanthal limiting so the G2 more than suits my needs.
I hope they get it sorted out where it works better with kanthal but if not it's not a concern for me. Hohm Tech put way too much emphasis on kanthal limiting. The device is so much more than that, also the battery life is amazing when compared to basically all other dual 18650 regulated devices.
I agree if purchasing the device for kanthal temperature control don't expect it to just work with all builds as Ben has stated, there are apparent limitations that need to be clarified.
The likely reason the dna seems warmer is the boost setting, on the G2 you have to use auto+ TC mode to get the same type of initial boost.
I purchased the G2 for the exact opposite reason you stated about the dna, I don't want to plug my device into a PC to use it with different wires. Luckily I don't care about kanthal limiting so the G2 more than suits my needs.
I hope they get it sorted out where it works better with kanthal but if not it's not a concern for me. Hohm Tech put way too much emphasis on kanthal limiting. The device is so much more than that, also the battery life is amazing when compared to basically all other dual 18650 regulated devices.
I agree if purchasing the device for kanthal temperature control don't expect it to just work with all builds as Ben has stated, there are apparent limitations that need to be clarified.
The likely reason the dna seems warmer is the boost setting, on the G2 you have to use auto+ TC mode to get the same type of initial boost.
As of the latest firmware, you can change wire types without the PC. Connect to the PC, load all the different wire types you plan to use in EScribe and it can be changed directly from the mod.
Yes I know that now, I think I still would have went with the G2 since both dual 18650 devices I know about are costlier and not made as well.As of the latest firmware, you can change wire types without the PC. Connect to the PC, load all the different wire types you plan to use in EScribe and it can be changed directly from the mod.
Thanks for pointing that out though.
Well I have both...and VTC, SX350J, DNA40, Wadea and Kangxin. In my thermocouple testing nothing beats the accuracy and precision of the DNA200 temp control. But they usually cost more. Although cheaper, the G2 does not boost only buck. I have a VCMT that I can put on the DNA200 and vape at 80W but because there is no boost on the G2 so it is limited to 65W.
I don't have the Panzer, I have the blacksmith, dx200 and two DIYs. The 1590B DIYs with 2200mah Lipos and solid 510s are awesome.
If HT ever gets the Kanthal TC ironed out then I'd say go with that. But as it is, let all the other factors make the decision for you. Cost, ease, looks, 510 etc.
Have you tried your K Clapton on a single coil build atty? Duals need to be balanced far more than a TCR wire.
IMHO they need to call FSK something different in XXX mode.
FSK in Kanthal and NiCr modes has to do with the EPT setting.
FSK in XXX mode appears to be TCR.
For example the Tungsten ceramic cartridges like the Krixus. A TCR of .0034 in the DNA200 and a FSK of 32% in the G2 produce the same thermocouple test result (within a few degrees) and both temperature control the Krixus well.
The SS mode appears to be for 316 but in XXX mode you can enter the TCR for unkamen 430 at 12.5%. IE .00125
HTH
I know everyone is on the topic of Kanthal, but did any of you that have the mod have issues with the mod not firing sometimes? I have the previous version and like Phil, mod doesn't fire sometimes and shows 0v. I honestly wish that I didn't see the mod on sale for half price at the time. I hate supporting companies that hurt our image.
Do you guys honestly believe you will be using the tc after the honeymoon phase? It doesn't seem like it actually does tc with kanthal, more like, maybe not burn my cotton mode. I will need to see temp charts showing actual tc.
Last question, did you buy the 40 Amp batteries that they make? Here are the specs on these bad boys.
"Built specifically for vapers and the vape industry at heart... We emphasized on safety while using battery steriods. TIRED OF REWRAPS? So are we. Hohm Tech cells have a unique authenticity code.
Step 1] Started with the tried and true LG H Series battery chemistry
Step 2] Collaboration & guidance from the source of it all, IC (aka: Indonesia Chemistry)
Step 3] Lowered internal resistance by a multitude of various internal modifications(used UHPAI for cathode tag, shortened cathode tag, among other mods)
Step 4] After 1000’s of trials and tests, we zero’d in on the perfect combination of what we call PPLS (Price, Power, Longevity, & Safety)
Step 5] Expanded our safety efforts by placing EPTC rings in each and every battery as well as integrated updated Poly Seals."
I have the G2 (have had it for two months now) and have not had any problems with it not firing or not firing correctly. Also they actually have two different batteries. I purchased two of the Work batteries when I bought the mod and I really like them. They stay charged for a long time and I haven't had any issues with the outer wrap peeling or anything like that (that I have had from other batteries).
May be of interest, I did a video with an IR camera showing the difference in spaced coils and TC with Ni200 between the DNA200 and G2.
Interesting but you know the G2 only regulates temperature properly when the coil is wet and being vaped, I like this method better for some reason.
Ha, I knew you'd be the first one to catch that. Yep you can see it shut off, sensing a dry wick. Unfortunately that camera can't detect a temperature lower than around 550. And the recorded video is much darker than what I'm seeing live so I've got to figure that out first.
I think the best way to compare the vape between the DNA and G2 is just by giving your thoughts on each since you own both.
Like the DNA pulses more/less on ni200 than the G2, the G2 seems to put out more/less power in standard wattage mode..etc
You seem to be impartial so just giving your thoughts on how each are different in vape quality on different types of wire would be great for those looking for this type of information.
I think the G2 temperature control just works too differently to compare like you did in the video. You may disagree, I'm just putting my thoughts out there.
Like the DNA pulses more/less on ni200 than the G2, the G2 seems to put out more/less power in standard wattage mode..etc
You seem to be impartial so just giving your thoughts on how each are different in vape quality on different types of wire would be great for those looking for this type of information.
I think the G2 temperature control just works too differently to compare like you did in the video. You may disagree, I'm just putting my thoughts out there.
Yeah they both vape great to me but the experience is different, subjective and difficult to explain. I can see where some would prefer one over the other. I want some sort of data to quantify it. I might have another cam that will do better so still working that angle. If that won't pan out then I will have to do a video using qualitative words.
I put together a little demo on you tube. Try to follow my instructions as best as possible. I don't know if my explanation is any different than others. I can tell you, I have pretty good success with limiting, though, it isn't perfect.
I would be more than happy to help you as best as I can!!
I DO find it harder to calibrate my Claptons with the newer firmware. Hohm Tech adjusted the sensitivity of the curve. I find the TC to run hotter with the 2.4.7 firmware.
I would also add, setting the wattage too high in Kanthal TC will give undesirable results. I set my wattage as I would if I were using any standard wattage device, maybe just a bit higher. Don't expect to get good results setting an RDA at 150 watts when normally you would run the RDA at 80. The wattage will over power the kanthal TC. Hope this helps!!
I would also add, setting the wattage too high in Kanthal TC will give undesirable results. I set my wattage as I would if I were using any standard wattage device, maybe just a bit higher. Don't expect to get good results setting an RDA at 150 watts when normally you would run the RDA at 80. The wattage will over power the kanthal TC. Hope this helps!!
You can downgrade I'm assuming, haven't actually tried but should work.
Hello everyone, sorry I've been away for quite some time tinkering with the g2, thanks 2coils for the video. I think I did review your video before on youtube when I was having issues. I have since gone back to the DNA 200. I just can't get the kanthal mode to work using dual coils. I must have went through a whole 30 ft. Of fused UD fused claptons. I gave one of my G2's to a friend and might hold on to the other one for a bit longer to see if Hohmtech can eventually get this device working properly. I exchanged emails with ben from hohmtech, and I was doing it wrong in the beginning thinking that the cotton burn test should be carried out in the same manner as the dna200 but was told that it needs to be adjusted with cotton and saturated with juice to get it right. But unfortunately that didn't work either. Start off at 5% Fsk, I see the wattage output drop appearing to work correctly, it didn't start getting heated enough to produce vapor till about 25%, at that point I lost limiting as the wattage would continue to fire at 42 watts and would not back down. Started backing down FSK all the way till 10% and it was still firing at 42 watts and wouldn't limit while backing down the FSK values. At this point I just give up and might as well use the DNA. Don't know what they mean as in Flag Ship Killer as I assume that is intended for the DNA that so many people like. One of the things I like about the DNA is that there are multiple profiles so I don't need to keep messing around with settings when I change tanks as long as the profiles were set correctly for the different tanks. Temp Control works flawlessly on the titanium, ni200, and stainless for me at least. But to say that the G2 kills the DNA is false. The only thing it has going for it is the ability to control kanthal on some of the tanks that have kanthal pre built coils. I just can't get the G2 working right with my dual coil builds and as of now, I might as well just use my dna in watt mode to run dual clapton's. At this point I have no reason to use that damn G2 as it offers no advantage over my DNA. Sorry I'm really just venting as I feel I wasted my money on it and also wasted a spool of fused clapton wire. Guess opinion's vary, but mine is that the DNA is still a far better Mod when it comes to features, if you have access to a computer which many have nowadays.
As does the G2, flawlessly. To imply otherwise isn't accurate.
I understand your frustration since you were looking for kanthal temperature control and that is iffy. But for those such as myself looking for a powerful, dual battery, well built device that temperature controls all temp wire the G2 is great.
They update the firmware, the battery life is excellent, and the vape is smooth. I'm satisfied with my purchase.
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I’m very satisfied as well. If it were not for the fact that they will be coming out with a new version shortly, I’d pick up a second G2 right now. It can be a finicky bugger at times, but I don’t regret the purchase whatsoever.
Just like any other device, some folks will like and others will not. The G2 can still use some improving upon, though, it absolutely suits my needs more than the DNA200. That is not to say Evolv's boards aren't good because they are.
Some tips when using claptons.....
Make sure the coils are spaced adequately.
Make sure they fire evenly
Have zero hotspots
make sure all connections are tight including your 510 pin
Don't over stuff with cotton
I have also had better results when not building macro coils. It seems too much coil mass does not do the G2 any favors.
Use wattage realistic to the build you are using. Setting wattage too high will make it harder to dial in the FSK setting.
These are my personal experiences YMMV. I see no need to run your rda 100% dry every time to prove the device is working properly. Even if you DO NOT have your build calibrated 100% accurately, The device will limit (put a ceiling on your temp). A DNA in standard wattage mode can not do this. Your coils will continue to get hotter and hotter. This is a huge advantage for the G2, especially when running claptons and similar builds.
Some tips when using claptons.....
Make sure the coils are spaced adequately.
Make sure they fire evenly
Have zero hotspots
make sure all connections are tight including your 510 pin
Don't over stuff with cotton
I have also had better results when not building macro coils. It seems too much coil mass does not do the G2 any favors.
Use wattage realistic to the build you are using. Setting wattage too high will make it harder to dial in the FSK setting.
These are my personal experiences YMMV. I see no need to run your rda 100% dry every time to prove the device is working properly. Even if you DO NOT have your build calibrated 100% accurately, The device will limit (put a ceiling on your temp). A DNA in standard wattage mode can not do this. Your coils will continue to get hotter and hotter. This is a huge advantage for the G2, especially when running claptons and similar builds.
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