Hohmtech Slice

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abn75

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Are you gonna TC, or just use it in Power mode ? Some folks just use it in Power mode, which is perfectly alright, I got mine so I could finally TC Kanthal and NiCr. Works Beautifully both ways !!
I'll run in tc all I build with anymore is ss. I ended up getting the basens.

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52anddone

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Basen is a good 26650 battery I think.

SirRichard, I've noticed that when I run my battery (Basen and MNKE) down to 00% (when it won't vape anymore), then check it on my DMM, I'm getting 3.35v still in the battery, that's when used in the Slice. Have you noticed this also ??
 
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Anthony_Vapes

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I just wanted to give an update here on the testing. I disassembled the battlestar and attempted to test efficiency and because I'm always honest, the answer is i can't. I guess there is a good reason nobody does this test. there was nowhere reliable I could probe onto to record amp draw and input voltage. So sadly I won't be able to provide this data
 

Anthony_Vapes

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Basen is a good 26650 battery I think.

SirRichard, I've noticed that when I run my battery (Basen and MNKE) down to 00% (when it won't vape anymore), then check it on my DMM, I'm getting 3.35v still in the battery, that's when used in the Slice. Have you noticed this also ??
sorry just seen this. I never tested the low amount when i took it out. not sure what the cutoff is for the slice but most mods are usually around 2.8-3.2 volts.
I'm vaping on my slice now with the basens. I'll run it to 0 and let you know what voltage it comes up with at zero later tonight or tomorrow
 

mjag

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I just wanted to give an update here on the testing. I disassembled the battlestar and attempted to test efficiency and because I'm always honest, the answer is i can't. I guess there is a good reason nobody does this test. there was nowhere reliable I could probe onto to record amp draw and input voltage. So sadly I won't be able to provide this data
Thanks for trying and being honest about it. Shows what your all about and it is truly appreciated bud.

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Tpat591

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I just wanted to give an update here on the testing. I disassembled the battlestar and attempted to test efficiency and because I'm always honest, the answer is i can't. I guess there is a good reason nobody does this test. there was nowhere reliable I could probe onto to record amp draw and input voltage. So sadly I won't be able to provide this data
Not trying to be difficult, but trying to understand. When last we chatted you said

I'm very well versed in UPS systems. a lot of them use AC-DC-AC convertors and i have some friends that are UPS technicians. I've worked on a few myself as well a few years back. So i'm still gonna do some research and talk to a few of them.

I also on top of my oscilloscope have access to amprobe DM-3 multi test meters through my job. I used them to help size my solar system on my house i know those things like the back of my hand lol. plus with the oscilloscope and a multimeter i should have more then enough testing equipment

Am I to assume the Ampprobe DM3 was unable to perform an inductance ammeter reading on the DC power in a useful range as that is probably an instrument more geared toward 1,2, & 3 ph AC amperage?

I realize it is probably problematic to locate an in-line ammeter able to withstand DC amperages in play here, but I thought that oscilloscopes had the ability to use inductance ammeter "current clamps" more commonly known by the Brand name Amprobe. You would need a 20a AC/DC Amprobe minimum for a 2s Battlestar but a 30a range would be more useful for 1s configurations as well. The hookup is simple. Voltage in parallel accross the battery series & amprobe or ammeter on the positive lead to the board. It is no different than when these reviewers are doing when checking output wattage accuracy of a mod, you are just doing it in the input side.
 
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Anthony_Vapes

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Not trying to be difficult, but trying to understand. When last we chatted you said



Am I to assume the Ampprobe DM3 was unable to perform an inductance ammeter reading on the DC power in a useful range as that is probably an instrument more geared toward 1,2, & 3 ph AC amperage?

I realize it is probably problematic to locate an in-line ammeter able to withstand DC amperages in play here, but I thought that oscilloscopes had the ability to use inductance ammeter "current clamps" more commonly known by the Brand name Amprobe. You would need a 20a AC/DC Amprobe minimum for a 2s Battlestar but a 30a range would be more useful for 1s configurations as well. The hookup is simple. Voltage in parallel accross the battery series & amprobe or ammeter on the positive lead to the board. It is no different than when these reviewers are doing when checking output wattage accuracy of a mod, you are just doing it in the input side.
It wasn't the equipment. It was literally the fact there was nowhere on the board to be able to get an input voltage reading reliably and nowhere to clamp and inline meter to for the input amperage. You'll see when I do my review. I did record the assembly and disassembly


Going across the battery input before the chip on the wires just gives me the battery voltage. Also the mini inline p meters I purchased to do this weren't mini enough to fit around the wires.

But if u have any ideas I haven't tried I'm all ears
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KenD

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thanks! and at least I'm honest enough to admit I couldn't test for it instead of spewing a BS number. Honesty and credibility are very important to me
I really like your reviews. You have the potential to become one of the great ones, right up there with Daniel from Djlsb Vapes :) Hope you'll get some funding so you can get a close up camera etc to make the reviews really professional looking. Thank you!

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Tpat591

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It wasn't the equipment. It was literally the fact there was nowhere on the board to be able to get an input voltage reading reliably and nowhere to clamp and inline meter to for the input amperage. You'll see when I do my review. I did record the assembly and disassembly


Going across the battery input before the chip on the wires just gives me the battery voltage. Also the mini inline p meters I purchased to do this weren't mini enough to fit around the wires.

But if u have any ideas I haven't tried I'm all ears
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Haven't seen review but I'm assuming.

Take + spring cup battery lead off sled to ammeter.
from ammeter, run lead to + of battery in series w/ magnets.

No soldering nor wire cutting necessary.

Not sure if you can solder wires to magnets without depolarzing the magnet, but that would make for easy hookup to in line ammeter if possible
 
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Anthony_Vapes

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I really like your reviews. You have the potential to become one of the great ones, right up there with Daniel from Djlsb Vapes :) Hope you'll get some funding so you can get a close up camera etc to make the reviews really professional looking. Thank you!

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Thanks! Well see how it goes for sure but I would like to get a better camera at some point.

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Anthony_Vapes

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Haven't seen review but I'm assuming.

Take + spring cup battery lead off sled to ammeter.
from ammeter, run lead to + of battery in series w/ magnets.

No soldering nor wire cutting necessary.

Not sure if you can solder wires to magnets without depolarzing the magnet, but that would make for easy hookup to in line ammeter if possible
Doing that only gives me the actual battery voltage. When I hook it up there I get a constant 8.0-8.4 depending on the charge of the batts. Even when not firing.

Plus that still doesn't account for amperage.

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Tpat591

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Tpat591

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Yes. Even the mini Meter won't fit. The input positive wire is about half and inch long

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and that goes to the + battery terminal "cup" pushed down by spring at sled. Take that off sled & extend it with an alligator clamp lead, running it to battery with a magnet. That will give you the room you need. It could also run through an in line ammeter in same manner if you had one.

The entire sled can be bypassed in same manner using magnets to connect leads to batteries and alligator clips to hook to mod leads.
 
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Anthony_Vapes

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and that goes to the + battery terminal "cup" pushed down by spring at sled. Take that off sled & extend it with an alliator clamp lead, running it to battery with a magnet. That will give you the room you need. It could also run through an in line ammeter in same manner if you had one.
Have u attempted it? The reason I ask is everywhere I clamped to for voltage on the input side is just the battery voltage. It's basically powering the board. What u are saying makes sense in theory. It's the same thing I thought as well but when actually trying it I had no luck. But I didn't fire it as I couldn't get an amp check. And it's all soldered. I could desolder the wire and use some wire nuts to extend and then resolder later but it's still just a theory and I'm pretty behind on reviews and testing as is. But I will look into still and try some more things for our info here if it's that's wanted.

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