Hohmtech Slice

[Tpat591]

Have u attempted it? The reason I ask is everywhere I clamped to for voltage on the input side is just the battery voltage. It's basically powering the board. What u are saying makes sense in theory. It's the same thing I thought as well but when actually trying it I had no luck. But I didn't fire it as I couldn't get an amp check. And it's all soldered. I could desolder the wire and use some wire nuts to extend and then resolder later but it's still just a theory and I'm pretty behind on reviews and testing as is. But I will look into still and try some more things for our info here if it's that's wanted.

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I've not taken it apart. I don't have amprobe capable of DC nor an inline capable above 10a DC. My ac ampprobe would usually need no more than 1" of slack on a lead to clamp over a wire to take a reading as it is no more than 1/2" wide at clamp.

Shouldn't even have to de-solder the Terminal cup as an alligator clip lead would clamp down tight enough to make a secure connection.

 

[Anthony_Vapes]

I've not taken it apart. I don't have amprobe capable of DC nor an inline capable above 10a DC. My ac ampprobe would usually need no more than 1" of slack on a lead to clamp over a wire to take a reading as it is no more than 1/2" wide at clamp.

Shouldn't even have to de-solder the Terminal cup as an alligator clip lead would clamp down tight enough to make a secure connection.

If u want I can show u the disassembly and assembly so I can see what I mean.

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[Tpat591]

If u want I can show u the disassembly and assembly so I can see what I mean.

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You can make simple magnetic battery leads like this (although I would make them smaller using shrink tubing instead of pvc). If those leads had alligator clips to hook to wires from board at sled, you can power board from 2)18650s with 1) magnet between + & - to make a series circuit without using sled to gain enough room to do your tests.

EDIT: This video probably better

 

[Anthony_Vapes]

You can make simple magnetic battery leads like this (although I would make them smaller using shrink tubing instead of pvc). If those leads had alligator clips to hook to wires from board at sled, you can power board from 2)18650s with 1) magnet between + & - to make a series circuit without using sled to gain enough room to do your tests.

EDIT: This video probably better

Seems like a good idea. I'll check it out later. Thanks!

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[Anthony_Vapes]

You can make simple magnetic battery leads like this (although I would make them smaller using shrink tubing instead of pvc). If those leads had alligator clips to hook to wires from board at sled, you can power board from 2)18650s with 1) magnet between + & - to make a series circuit without using sled to gain enough room to do your tests.

EDIT: This video probably better

It's funny. Reminds me of the old school days when we would do resistive load testing with jumper cables. Just clamped them on the bussing.

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[Tpat591]

It's funny. Reminds me of the old school days when we would do resistive load testing with jumper cables. Just clamped them on the bussing.

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If you think about it you could actually make mock 18650s out of wood dowels in same manner with the contacts as the magnets & wires out a slot cut down one side for the wires to be rearraged for different configs that you can just snap into any sled, battery tube or battery bay, then connect to the wires with your test leads & battery rig to test any mod configuration without disassembly of the mod itself.

Might be worth thinking about if you are serious about introducing mod efficiency testing in your reviews.

 

[Anthony_Vapes]

If you think about it you could actually make mock 18650s out of wood dowels in same manner with the contacts as the magnets & wires out a slot cut down one side for the wires to be rearraged for different configs that you can just snap into any sled or battery bay, then connect to the wires with your test leads & battery rig to test any mod configuration without disassembly of the mod itself.

Might be worth thinking about if you are serious about introducing mod efficiency testing in your reviews.

I would like to for sure but only if I can have a good procedure to do so and accurate results

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[52anddone]

I have been trying to come up with a solution to the battery door click, click, clack every time I pick my Slice up to vape. I have a solution, Finally.




On my Black Slice I had to put scotch tape in the two places on the body just under the battery door, and that helped some, but not completely, so I put an added piece on top of each piece already there, so a double thickness of scotch tape top and bottom on the body. No more click, click, clack when I pick it up, it is now silent.

 

[abn75]

Update on using the basen I seem to get ok usage out of them running a dual ss build at .22 75watts and 400* Can go a couple of hours before switching the battery out, but i don't vape it down to the shut off. Thinking of adding a set of the ijoy 26650 into the mix to see how they do. Also going to order some smaller gauge wire i think.

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[MacTechVpr]

Basen is a good 26650 battery I think.

SirRichard, I've noticed that when I run my battery (Basen and MNKE) down to 00% (when it won't vape anymore), then check it on my DMM, I'm getting 3.35v still in the battery, that's when used in the Slice. Have you noticed this also ??

sorry just seen this. I never tested the low amount when i took it out. not sure what the cutoff is for the slice but most mods are usually around 2.8-3.2 volts.
I'm vaping on my slice now with the basens. I'll run it to 0 and let you know what voltage it comes up with at zero later tonight or tomorrow

Update on using the basen I seem to get ok usage out of them running a dual ss build at .22 75watts and 400* Can go a couple of hours before switching the battery out, but i don't vape it down to the shut off. Thinking of adding a set of the ijoy 26650 into the mix to see how they do. Also going to order some smaller gauge wire i think.

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Hi all and thanks for the informative convo. Running several Slice and really liking this mod and chip.

Saw some discussion of differing capacities for the…Basen 26650 4500mAh Issue? | BudgetLightForum.com…that there might be two specs for this batt.

Just out of curio, ran the Basen 4500 down to cutoff and batt voltage was 3.4V remaining. Interestingly display voltage bar bottoms with V at 0% but after a couple'a sec's indicates 6% remaining and bar flat. Running the blue SE and Adviken 360 with a tensioned m.c. at 25x2 9/8 LL=9mm 3.5mmØ=0.566Ω. Displayed output volts and res conforms to preceding.

Would have expected not see a cut-off above 3.2v and preferably the 2.9v I've seen cited for this cell.

Is there a link somewhere for the max charge rate on this batt? I've assumed 1.5A based on the cap.

Thx for any leads or insights on the above.

Good luck.

 

[52anddone]

When I run my batteries down to "No more Vape" 00%, what I am doing is allowing for that slight rise in voltage after it goes to 00%, meaning that I will wait for about 5 min. after 00% (for the rise back up to where it shows voltage again) and keep vaping like that till I get 00% after sitting for a few minutes, then take the battery out and check it on my DMM. I don't normally vape like that but, this was an experiment just to see what the Slice was cutting off at. It is a bit of a pain to do it like that, but I was curious about the cutoff voltage myself. I do this with all my new mods when I first get them, just to see what's going on.

 

[52anddone]

Thanks for that link Mac. Very interesting, to say the least, continuing the read as I post this but just wanted you to know my thoughts so far. This is the first time for me on the site you linked, very interesting for sure. Thanks again Mac.

Edit; Now I'm thinking of getting a
Liitokala Lii - 500 LCD Battery Charger
- US PLUG BLACK for $27.97
to replace my Xtar VC-2 as my Xtar doesn't do discharge to help with showing a truer battery capacity for my Slice's. Yes, I'm kind of a Tech Nerd, always have been I guess.

Edit; I went ahead and got that Liitokala Lii-500 charger at Gearbest after thinking about it and doing some research. Thanks again Mac.

 

[52anddone]

In reference to post Hohmtech Slice
I did the same test when I got my Presa TC 100, and it cut off at between 3.22v and 3.17v (the lowest voltage). So this Slice, all 3 of my Slice's in fact, do the same as far as cutoff voltage goes, way above my 2 Presa TC 100's. I wonder why they set the Slice up like that ?

 

[52anddone]

Is there a link somewhere for the max charge rate on this batt? I've assumed 1.5A based on the cap.

I've never seen one listed for either the Basen Black or the MNKE 3500 (narrow text spacing) 26650's, and I've looked. That would be some useful info for sure, as I have seen some say they charge them at 1A, 2A, and some wanting to find a charger to go up to 3A even for the 26650 batteries. I think my Xtar VC-2 will max out at 1A for both bays charging at the same time, but the meter on the charger only says .5A when charging only (1) 26650 at a time.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I've never seen one listed for either the Basen Black or the MNKE 3500 (narrow text spacing) 26650's, and I've looked. That would be some useful info for sure, as I have seen some say they charge them at 1A, 2A, and some wanting to find a charger to go up to 3A even for the 26650 batteries. I think my Xtar VC-2 will max out at 1A for both bays charging at the same time, but the meter on the charger only says .5A when charging only (1) 26650 at a time.

I did my initial discharge-recharge eval on these at 1.5A and they came in nominally at values linked to in ext thread (run OPUS BT-C3100 v2.2). But I'd like if poss to have the opt for 2-3A fast charge. Just keep seeing references to low charge current limit on the 4500's. These and the Slice are working quite well stacked up against a Cuboid array I use for build and oxidation trials. Like my all time fav, the ZNA30, the Slice more resembles a mech experience than most. Thx for the comeback.

Good luck.

 

[52anddone]

Like my all time fav, the ZNA30, the Slice more resembles a mech experience than most.

Thanks Mac;
It must be because the Slice is reportedly sending Max Watts for a brief moment to the build to get it going, then throttles down to the set wattage (I think in Wattage and TC modes it does this), but Hohmtech doesn't say just how long the Slice does that for. I Love my Slice's and G2 so much that I don't see me getting any mods other than Hohmtech. I guess you could call me a FanBoy, but I won't be marching in the streets, or burning buildings, or getting all Crazy Eyed and slobbering all over myself when someone mention's some other mod (ex. DNA, Joyetech, Wismec) as being a good one, that's for sure. For me, Hohmtech mods (the FSK board) are Perfect for my NiCr/Kanthal builds in TC. I never did get into Mech's, I've only been in this Vaping since Aug. 2014, so went straight to Regulated from the get go (a little Spinner2/EVOD2 setup), then to the Sigelei 30 mini's and on up.

Edit; at some point I do want to try the new Ijoy 26650's as I have seen Mooch give them the highest recommendation for a 26650 battery.

 

[GeorgeS]

I just wanted to give an update here on the testing. I disassembled the battlestar and attempted to test efficiency and because I'm always honest, the answer is i can't. I guess there is a good reason nobody does this test. there was nowhere reliable I could probe onto to record amp draw and input voltage. So sadly I won't be able to provide this data

This can be easy to nearly impossible depending on if you wish to not alter the mod to where it can't be used "as new" anymore.

The simplest is the two sided piece of paper with copper foil with wires attached to both sides. The paper is placed in between one of the battery contacts and the battery and the wires attached to a shunt or AMP meter.

Clip leads can be also used directly on the mods battery contacts there by wiring the batteries outside of the mod to provide room to interrupt the circuit with a shunt or amp meter.

Last but not least the mods battery contacts can be modified or removed to attach to wiring going to a shunt or amp meter.

I think it is sad that reviews who get the review mods for free don't go ahead and tear into them to make these measurements.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Thanks Mac;
It must be because the Slice is reportedly sending Max Watts for a brief moment to the build to get it going, then throttles down to the set wattage (I think in Wattage and TC modes it does this), but Hohmtech doesn't say just how long the Slice does that for. I Love my Slice's and G2 so much that I don't see me getting any mods other than Hohmtech. I guess you could call me a FanBoy, but I won't be marching in the streets, or burning buildings, or getting all Crazy Eyed and slobbering all over myself when someone mention's some other mod (ex. DNA, Joyetech, Wismec) as being a good one, that's for sure. For me, Hohmtech mods (the FSK board) are Perfect for my NiCr/Kanthal builds in TC. I never did get into Mech's, I've only been in this Vaping since Aug. 2014, so went straight to Regulated from the get go (a little Spinner2/EVOD2 setup), then to the Sigelei 30 mini's and on up.

Edit; at some point I do want to try the new Ijoy 26650's as I have seen Mooch give them the highest recommendation for a 26650 battery.

Don't know enough about the op of this chip to comment. In the case of builds I'm using any burn initialization peak might be hard to detect as tensioned micro's have rather a quick ramp up vs. standard builds and are super stable for res. I'll have to run a few std straight wire builds at some point. My focus is on wire and build, vaporization efficiency for the avg user.

Have to agree the Slice is a good example of what a solid VW device can be. In this context, a targeted mech build at peak volts is the ref standard. So I'm not looking at what these things can do in the quarter. Rather what's more typical in use, say broadly 35-45W. How do builds producing optimized vaporization rates on mechs fare on the Slice? Quite well in contrast to some comparable or up-power dev's and why my remark earlier.

Three yrs 52 and no mech? You're missing out on some simple pleasures.

Good luck.

 

[52anddone]

Am I wrong to assume that with Both the Slice and the G2, as soon as you press the button you get instant Max Power for a time, then get you're preferred Wattage/Temp ? I have been thinking that that is what's happening all along (I must have read it somewhere), but have recently been called into question.

 

[Anthony_Vapes]

Am I wrong to assume that with Both the Slice and the G2, as soon as you press the button you get instant Max Power for a time, then get you're preferred Wattage/Temp ? I have been thinking that that is what's happening all along (I must have read it somewhere), but have recently been called into question.

Yes it has a built in preheat of Max watts for a split second according to hohmtech

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