Hohmtech Slice
- Thread starter Lorenzo Morchio
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I really wish that Hohmtech would have done a better job with the Slice's housing. The chip is so Fantasticly Damm near Perfect, yet, they screwed the pooch on the housing, the Fit and Finish that is. I will still use mine even though it looks like it has been dipped in a vat of acid. I know, if Fit and Finish were better then they certainly would NOT have sold it for $30, I get that, but still.
I agree, they did great with the performance but missed with style on both the G2 and Slice. I love good looking mods, that's why I own a Triade, Finder 167 and G Class but the Slice/G2 would be in the same running or on top if they would have added more style. That said the performance keeps me stubborn, every time I go back to my G2 or Slice it leaves a smile on my face just by the way they vape.
As I already mentioned, I'm all hyped with FSK performance and I almost ordered the Slice. I'm aware it's up there with DNA and Yihi, but build quality and feel is just subpar.
Other day while I was ordering Slice, I was performing case analyzer on my Therion and I was vaping on Evic VTC mini. Small entry level peace of metal that pulses in TC and even with moderate and careful usage looks like it has seen war, but it's super cheap so there is nothing to complain about. But after using Therion, this is just not something I want to hold in my hand. Maybe as a spare when I can't use Therion, but as a daily driver it's unexceptionable. So I closed the page and ordered HCigar VT75 (SS) from GB warehouse for same price Slice LE would cost me.
Same performance but much better looks and paint durability. Sorry Hohmtech, but if you want to sell me a product it must also look nice. It doesn't mean you have to pack FSK in stabilized wood and sell it for 350€. I just want something without strange gaps, door rattle and paint that will last. And if you add some leather on the battery door, I will gladly pay 100€ for a mod with FSK.
Other day while I was ordering Slice, I was performing case analyzer on my Therion and I was vaping on Evic VTC mini. Small entry level peace of metal that pulses in TC and even with moderate and careful usage looks like it has seen war, but it's super cheap so there is nothing to complain about. But after using Therion, this is just not something I want to hold in my hand. Maybe as a spare when I can't use Therion, but as a daily driver it's unexceptionable. So I closed the page and ordered HCigar VT75 (SS) from GB warehouse for same price Slice LE would cost me.
Same performance but much better looks and paint durability. Sorry Hohmtech, but if you want to sell me a product it must also look nice. It doesn't mean you have to pack FSK in stabilized wood and sell it for 350€. I just want something without strange gaps, door rattle and paint that will last. And if you add some leather on the battery door, I will gladly pay 100€ for a mod with FSK.
I have 2 VT75, 1 Red and the other SS. While I love the looks and build quality the performance of the DNA75 chip is really lacking compared to the DNA250 IMO. It is not as efficient as either the 250 or FSK chip, somewhere around 86%.
If after awhile you start getting damaged atomizer readings with the VT75 you have to remove and clean the threads on the 510 plate. Both inside and outside threads and use a contact enhancer. This has happened to me and a couple of other people I know.
To get better battery life use 0.30 ohm builds on the VT75, any lower and it will get hot and battery life will suck bad. Any higher and you may run into it's amp limit, it is finicky.
I do like my VT75 mods but to say the performance is the same as the Slice just doesn't ring true. The DNA75 is the ugly duckling of DNA chips, most DNA fans would agree.
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If after awhile you start getting damaged atomizer readings with the VT75 you have to remove and clean the threads on the 510 plate. Both inside and outside threads and use a contact enhancer. This has happened to me and a couple of other people I know.
To get better battery life use 0.30 ohm builds on the VT75, any lower and it will get hot and battery life will suck bad. Any higher and you may run into it's amp limit, it is finicky.
I do like my VT75 mods but to say the performance is the same as the Slice just doesn't ring true. The DNA75 is the ugly duckling of DNA chips, most DNA fans would agree.
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I'm aware that DNA75 with 1 battery has limitations. But for my vaping style it should do fine.
I'm building SS316L 6-7 wraps that require 30W (40W preheat) and with iJoy 4200mHa DNA75 should give me 1 day of nice TC vape without any pulsing.
I remember reading some post about how someone had problems running more than 30W on DNA75 on his build. I remember it didn't worry me.
P.S. After doing more research I'm struggling to find DNA75 limitations posing a problem. DNA75 with 1.2ohm coil will not give more than 30W but what kind of tank is capable of this? Is there someone that needs more power at this resistance?
Kanthal 26gauge coil at 1.2 ohms and 30W has heat flux of 220mW/mm². SS316L 26 gauge coil with same heat flux has resistance 0.6ohm and DNA75 can produce 64W at these parameters. When maxed out on 0.6ohm SS coil heat flux measures 490 mW/mm².
With lower resistances battery life is bigger problem than DNA performance.
So, in real life, is DNA75 really limited by bad performance or is this just a case of finding extreme examples when board does't work?
Don't get me wrong, I have no intention advocating DNA75. This is only for educational purposes so I know what are limitations of my vape gear.
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mjag, What would you use to strip the paint off of you're Slice if you had to do it all over again, Lacquer Thinner, Painter Stripper, Turpentine or what ?
I have (3) Hohm Slice and (1) G2. I am wanting to stay under 450°F with my builds, preferably at, or under 400°F. My question is, without having a DNA Temp boarded mod (an SVD2 is all I have) how can I tell if I'm at, close to, or even over those temps ? I mix to either 50/50 or 60/40 PG so I'm not too worried about that portion of my vaping giving Off Carcinogens, except for maybe my Temps getting too high. Anthony, Tpat, mjag, what do you think, do I need to get a DNA boarded mod to compare what an accurate, say 400°F, should feel like so that I can adjust my Hohm devices with NiCr/Kanthal in TC mode more accurately just to be sure that I'm not getting too close to that Danger Zone, above 450°F ?? One of my mixes is a Menthol with Natural Mint that I like as cold as possible (no problem there), but the other, is my Arabic Tobacco mix that I have to turn the heat up on a little, and that's the one that I'm concerned most about, as it needs some heat before the flavor starts to come thru.
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Only ways I can think of is water wicking, temp probing or comparison to a DNA.
Never hurts to have a DNA on hand as it is the easiest close enough method. Once you get a feel for your juice at temp, you will not need it per se & you have been doing this long enough that you probably aren't that far off as it is. There are usually some decent deals on a DNA out there where you don't have to break the bank to get one.
So, from what I have read, the DNA75 is NOT that accurate, so not a good mod for comparison purposes ?? Or did I not understand that conversation fully ?
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Acetone is good. This thing is now flaking off paint in my hand, no assistance needed.
I don't want to put up any more pics of it, as I don't want to discourage anyone else from getting one, as they are a Super TC mod for TC'ing NiCr and Kanthal. I do use mine every single day, it's my "Main Squeeze" for vaping.
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The Hohm Tech chip is supposedly quite accurate in "normal" (not-FSM, I'm not trying to offend anyone here) so I'd think that you could use the same atty with something like titanium wire in non-FSK temp mode and compare the results to kanthal/nichrome in FSK mode. You'd have to use the same atty (or at least the same model) and coils of the same diameter, wire gauge, and wrap count for the results to be comparable.
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Someone said they just used a paint stripper, I have not tried it myself
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Oh yeah, that's a good idea especially if you have 2 of the same tanks. I only tried SS316 mode but it was pretty equal to my DNA mods.
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No, it's not the accuracy, I was just commenting on the board efficiency of the DNA75 vs DNA200/250 and FSK chip. There are other deficiencies with the DNA75 as well but it is accurate for TC as long as it is setup correctly.
If you love to tinker then the DNA is great, escribe is an incredible tool. If your not into that though then it is best to buy a DNA mod that already comes setup by the MFG. For the DNA75 the SMY SDNA75 is tuned by Daniel the technical reviewer from youtube. It is a single 18650 but works really well, I have one and really like it.
I know Think Vape and Lost Vape do some initial setup for there DNA mods. Hcigar does no setup, there DNA mods come with the generic DNA software loaded. While it can be used out of the box that way it is missing key things like case thermals and battery setup so performance will suffer.
If you do decide to get a VT75 I do have a escribe file that is all setup I can email you.
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Hi 52... most paste paint strippers work very easily on the slice finish. It's of course a good idea to disassemble the slice, remove the buttons , and cover the board and internals. The paint is so thin and poorly applied it literally just takes a minute or so for it to be able to be wiped off.
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Thank You mjag for the offer, I've bought so much vape gear this month that it will be a month or two before I can spend more, I really screwed the pooch this month buying Siren's since Digiflavor stopped production on them and I only had one (which I had on top of my Black Slice running NiCr TC.
Thanks Ken. When I was thinking of buying my first Hohmtech device I was so interested in what it would do in NiCr/Kanthal TC that I just skimmed over all the rest of the data, so I missed that one. I'll Bookmark this so I'll have it, as I forget parts of things I read all the time.
More confirmation that makes me re-think my initial decision on buying a DNA mod just for comparison purposes. All I would need is some SS316, and that looks like the cheapest way out for me at this point in time. I could set one Siren up in SS mode, and one up in my NiCr or Kanthal mode with the same # of wraps (either 6 or 8), wire gauge (prolly 28 gauge would be the simplest for this application), and coil dia. (3mm in this case) and that would be not Exactly the same, but close enough for what I'm doing here. Is my thinking correct, or did I miss something ?
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Thanks Jesem. Yeah, that's what I was thinking also, my paint is literally coming off in my hand as I use this mod now. Depressing, to say the least. I will take it all apart beforehand.
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