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To say that the dna's are more accurate than the HohmTech devices may, or may not be accurate, I don't have any test equipment here to check, but, I do know that a goodly number of folks set their devices up for taste anyway, so if your TC/TL is in the neighborhood of what you set it for as a baseline to get started, and not something like off by 100°F/or C, then it should work for ya. I just want to explore this more to see what everyone else thinks. I know that I think it does some kind of Temp limiting, cause when my tank gets dry then my vapor peters out more and more until there is nothing at all, but no burnt wicking. So is that Temp Control/Temp Limiting or what ?? Accuracy is something else again AFAIC, and not Germain to what I am asking. I have, several times cleaned my coil the easy way on my G2, by running my Siren V1 dry as a bone and kept vaping on it till there is almost no vapor coming out, then I will take the Siren apart and my coil has noticeably less crud between the coil wraps, and my wick is not streaked as darkly with old juice as it was before. I can't do that in Power mode, I would burn up the wicking for sure, and start getting that Bad Off Taste, which I don't get from the G2/Slice. So again, Temp Control/Temp Limiting or what ?? I'm asking all you that are not Biased towards DNA/YiHi/HohmTech but have used all or most, and are more knowledgeable in this matter than I am. I still say that there is more than one way to skin a cat here, and different is not necessarily Bad/Wrong/or Not classified as some form of TC/TL'ing. Again, what is HohmTech doing ??
@MacTechVpr , @Tpat591 , @mjag , @Anthony_Vapes , or anyone else ?? I am very curious to learn.
@MacTechVpr , @Tpat591 , @mjag , @Anthony_Vapes , or anyone else ?? I am very curious to learn.
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Personally, I don't think the temperature on any of the devices, DNA etc are actually accurate. You just have to fiddle a bit to get it working for you. As to it saying 400F on the screen and it actually being 400F, I doubt it.
I get good TC off DNA, have also gotten good TC off of cheap joyetech mod with arctic fox firmware. I tried the Slice with SS TC and it was good enough.
I get good TC off DNA, have also gotten good TC off of cheap joyetech mod with arctic fox firmware. I tried the Slice with SS TC and it was good enough.
BTW. Phil did about as much wrong as could be done wrong, plus, HohmTech had to come out with another software update to cure his problem. Phil was trying to use the HohmTech just like a DNA, and I think he ended up burning his wick all up. I saw that video myself, Funny.
Edit; Phil sometimes goes Off the rails in his reviews I have noticed, from time to time, but he still is one of my favorites, along with Danial @DJLsb Vapes.
Edit; Phil sometimes goes Off the rails in his reviews I have noticed, from time to time, but he still is one of my favorites, along with Danial @DJLsb Vapes.
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ArcticFox is Great, isn't it. I use it all the time in my Sinuous P80's and Presa's, but only in Power mode. I digress. Sorry folks.
The only thing I use my G2/Slice for is to TC/TL Kanthal/NiCr. I haven't tried TC/TL with any other device, that's why I ask. I run strictly Power mode with all other devices.
Thanks slider.
Thanks slider.
Not sure but I think based on something that I read elsewhere that the Hohmtech devices use another method for TC other than ohm change especially with Kanthal. I saw somewhere don't remember that they time a electric current running thru the coil to determine temp. This may be wrong, don't know.
Your Close enough slider. It's like a "Ping" that is timed across the whole circuit. That's how, like you say, they can do Kanthal/Nicr and prolly even Barbed Wire if they wanted. They do wire that the other devices can't because of the way that they measure. Like I said above, it's a totally different Technology, but as far as I know they use the same Technology for Ni200/Ti/SS and normal wire for TC'ing as all the other devices do, so no different there. That's the thing, they use (2) different technologies in the same device, as far as I know.
I normally use SS but I will wrap up a Kanthal coil in the next couple days and give it spin in TC.
I always use xxx Mode for Kanthal/NiCr (not Kanthal/NiCr mode).
For Single 28g Kanthal, I start in xxx Mode with an FSK of about 3.0 (on a New coil) and @ 16 watts,
then keep raising my FSK up by 0.5 till I get vapor,
then set to taste and adjust wattage to suit,
The older the coil gets (seasoned) the more you have to raise the FSK, but you will reach a point when it stabilizes and you don't have to dink with the FSK anymore.
For Single 28g Kanthal, I start in xxx Mode with an FSK of about 3.0 (on a New coil) and @ 16 watts,
then keep raising my FSK up by 0.5 till I get vapor,
then set to taste and adjust wattage to suit,
The older the coil gets (seasoned) the more you have to raise the FSK, but you will reach a point when it stabilizes and you don't have to dink with the FSK anymore.
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Got my Slice today and it's DOA 
It won't do anything. It doesn't come on like my Wrecker does when I put a battery in and it won't turn on when I hold the button like the Wrecker does. I'm kinda bummed.
It won't do anything. It doesn't come on like my Wrecker does when I put a battery in and it won't turn on when I hold the button like the Wrecker does. I'm kinda bummed.
Got my Slice today and it's DOA
Interesting SLM. I have had the exact same thing happen to me with both my G2 and Slice. It happened first with my G2, and I couldn't figure out what was going on for the longest time (it was New also). I was all ready to contact Customer Service when I had an epiphany and swapped my batteries around, and it worked. Hallelujah !! I started looking at my batteries and it seems that some of mine had flatter positive connections than the others did (they were New 25R Blue batteries and some seemed to be shorter in length) and while making contact, the contact was not very tight with the G2 battery contacts. I found the shorter of the two and replaced it with a longer one, and it fired right up (I had just bought (4) New 25R's, so I could swap one out to test). With my Slice, when the very same thing happened again I knew right where to start looking. I found that the very center of the positive connection on some batteries was pushed in just a bit further than on other batteries, and that seems to make a difference with these devices. This phenomenon gets worse with older, more used batteries. Hope this helps.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot tomorrow. I only have one 26650 battery and the contact seems good. I even rolled it in the mod thinking maybe it was a contact problem but nothing. I'll try some more fiddling and see what happens. I know the battery is good. I took it out of my VT 75, which fired and checked and it and it's at 4.1 volts.
If you only have one 26650 then your options to check it are limited. Good luck though. You can try a 18650 battery with the sleeve they sent along also, at least I think that they sent a sleeve with the Slice, it's been so long that I forget now.
Jus outta curio 52, what is your wind config/atty for that set?
I run mostly 454's with KA1/Nextel t.m.c. vert's @ 37.5-50W…
24x2 8/8 2.80mmØ=0.3615Ω, a/f bet 2.75-3mm w/var caps, these can be pushed substantially higher (wound too at the more common 7/64") they're quite cool at this range (~116-150mW/mm²) comp to less watts.
G'luck.
Sorry if this is something you already know, but to turn these on use the rectangle button at the very top above the fire button......push and hold.....Got my Slice today and it's DOA
And I have only used the 18650's with a sleeve so don't know if it would work without one.
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