homemade atomizer bottom feed

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ChrisEU

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Why is copper considered unsafe? Sorry but I am still new to this.
This is because of the fear of buildup of verdigris (or copper patina), the green stuff that can develop from copper. It's usually a mixture of copper carbonate, copper chloride and other copper salts, some of which are considered poisonous.
The "we used copper for thousands of years" line is correct, but copper reacts very differently to the environment, whether it's acidic or neutral or basic - add extra complexity for electric currents through the salts.

Basically, if you can avoid it, just don't use copper (or lead, for that matter, for example in soldering material) where it comes into contact with liquid. Even brass is not a good idea, as long as it is not certified for food (many are, though).

On the other hand - we all used to smoke, a bit of verdigris won't kill us, but why take the risk?

Cheers,

Chris
 

SammyT

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I may try to press fit it first. I only use high end silver solder on my mods have never had any issues. But its a good heads up. If I can press fit it I will go that way first.

I will get Monday and Tuesday to work in the shop I am hoping my Ego adapters get here early in the week..
Can I get a link to the solder you use possibly? I want the good stuff lol.
 

Cry79

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first of all I want to clarify that this is just to try an repairable atomizer bottom feed, it pales in comparison with the Chalice so much that I took another chalice, here the comparison between chalice I, chalice II, and homemade atomizer ,

imagedmb.jpg


however, for those who want to try a repairable atomizer bottom feed, before you spend a lot of money to buy one

(within the guide also measures of oring)

 
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Big Hitter

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This has been a great thread thanks Cry79.

If I didn't have a Chalice on the way I would make one for sure.
I have a feeling right after my Chalice arrives I'm going to be looking for a second one. They will probably be gone by then.
I all ready missed them at the MB web site and had to spend 170 bucks from cloud9.

Whats the atty/tank on the 26650 mod ?? Is that a GG product?

BTW you should try some of the button tops from Rob, I didn't know I need them until I tried one.
They are great.
 

SammyT

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Fantastic! great video Cry, thank you for outlining everything, and showing it perform. I think if the airflow directly hit the coil it would perform even better, but it looked like it is a satisfying vape anyway. I am sure there is a way to make the airflow directly hit the coil.
 

hildicat

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I put one together and though it feeds and fires up just fine, I get hardly any vapor. I think this is because, at least on my setup the air hole in the phoenix cap is still underneath the coil. I haven't drilled another air hole higher in the cap, but by the looks of it, it would have to be all the way at the top of the cap near where the drip tip connects. I guess I have to cut the CE2 tube shorter as well, but as it is now it sits nearly at the bottom of the ego adapter. I may revisit this later, but don't have much time for tinkering now so it'll have to wait.
 

SammyT

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I put one together and though it feeds and fires up just fine, I get hardly any vapor. I think this is because, at least on my setup the air hole in the phoenix cap is still underneath the coil. I haven't drilled another air hole higher in the cap, but by the looks of it, it would have to be all the way at the top of the cap near where the drip tip connects. I guess I have to cut the CE2 tube shorter as well, but as it is now it sits nearly at the bottom of the ego adapter. I may revisit this later, but don't have much time for tinkering now so it'll have to wait.

That is exactly what I feared may happen. It seems that if one repositioned the air hole relative to the position of the coil and closed the pheonix's stock air hole with some solder, or even a small bit of a cart condom that you could drastically improve this. Even more so if you let the coil come out the top of the ceramic cup, and stuffed your wick in the cup, you would have your coil plenty of air and get your wick more than adequately wet when you squonk, and it would reduce flooding to the point that juice overflows the ceramic cup. This would be an easy fix and IMO would completely obliterate the airflow issue. If/when someone tries this please let us know :)
It seems with this sort of a setup, less wick would be better than too much.

-Sam
 
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MXBNW

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Strange the ones I got from the did. It adjusts from the inside of the adapter.

Post a photo if you have the time, I wonder if they changed something.

Fyi...the 510-ego adapters from SmokTek.com linked in a previous post do NOT have the adjustable center pin...received mine today...bummer
 

TennDave

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No soldering and I rebuilt a EM 510 atty w/ 4 wraps of the wire that came with the ERA along with their rope folded over once...just pushed the wires into the silicone gasket (one in the center and one on the side, cut them close and then pulled the entire coil back out through the atty side, out just a smidge so there were no ends showing on the threaded side...it works very well- plumes of vapor! However, I will tell you it was a hassle to get the wire in between the gasket and the pin and wall and make the gasket fit. I was very careful to check for continuity before I screwed it on my 18490. The coil with the silica rope are pushed down into the very bottom most section of the atty, next to where it threads, so it heats the entire Reo up fairly quickly. Not sure how safe this is so I'm being careful- hate to melt a spring.
 
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