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I may be wrong, but I thought you were supposed to do that while out of the device.
That way you can do the whole thing too.
I'm sure someone smarter will comment on my comment.
That way you can do the whole thing too.
I'm sure someone smarter will comment on my comment.
You may be right. It did turn my post an ugly color. But, the tip was, to light it on fire and then tilt it so that juice will run down allowing it to burn longer. This was supposed to help with the wicking.
It does help. You should take it out and do the same thing.
When you do, be sure to wet the end that you will be holding with water so that the flame does not burn down.
When you do, be sure to wet the end that you will be holding with water so that the flame does not burn down.
Stupid question... can you take out the wick and put it back in without messing up the coils? Or do you have to rewrap?
Have any of you had a grandparent that had a cast iron skillet. We'll I did. I made a big mistake and washed it. It wasn't pretty. Boy did I get a tong lashing. Reason being it was "seasoned". My point is I finally found my sweet spot 325 mesh with 3 coils that ohmed out at 1.5 ohm. which = 12 watts at 4.2 volts and 9 watts at 3.7v. Point being my coil is seasoned by build up. Crusty e juice residue. Kinda like grandmas cast iron skillet. Had a lot of current problems ie. not firing consistently. I bought some di-electric grease and lubed everything up and works alot better now. Di-electric grease conducts electricity and prevents corrosion. Point being 'dirty' wick & coil, for lack of a better term, is better. Also seasonig does take time. Mabe this will help people.Oh by the way I am very happy with my Zenisis now. top notch. Top shelf APV. Keep on vaping.
I'm pretty sure the whole point of dielectric grease is that it's non conductive.
OK, that makes sense then. Try pulling the wick and heating it with a torch. Let it glow red for 15-20 seconds and then quickly dunk it in water. The wick being red hot will not burn you, but be careful with the water, it will shoot up the wick so really, just drop it in a shot glass full of water (or something equivalent). Do this 3 or 4 times. I am betting that the first 2 times you do this you will notice what looks like little embers on the wick. This is juice gunk and carbonization and what does not burn off will be shocked off by the water.
Once you have done this, heat it once more to be sure there is no water left on the wick.
Now add a few drops of juice to the wick and light it on fire. The wick may get red hot, do not quench in water during this step (you may want to use a tweezers or unbent paper clip hold the wick during this step because you want to let it burn till it goes out, we don't want you to get burned).
Do this until when you drop juice on the wick it gets sucked up instantly. This can be as few as 3 or as many as 10 cycles.
Now wet the wick once more and put it into the Zenesis and re-wrap a news coil.
Fix any shorts (drop juice on the wick as needed to prevent overheating on spots that are shorting).
Once the shorts are gone, tilt it about 45 degrees with the wick down and the vent hole up and fire the coil continuously till the juice starts running down the wick.
You should be in vaping heaven within 10 drags.
This works for at least 90% of the time. Like I said before, there is always that occasional stubborn wick
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Thanks again for all of the awesome advice lorderos! Now, just to show you all how non handy I am, where does one acquire a torch? Lowes? Home Depot? Are they expensive?
That is correct. You should use noalox on the threads of your Zenesis if you are having contact issues, but not anywhere in the vapor chamber (NO NOALOX ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR MOUTH
)If you can get it or have some lying around, ACF-50 anti-corrosion spray works even better, but is quite expensive.
Those of you into aviation will probably already have some kicking around
A small refillable bernzomatic butane torch or something equivalent will do. Get the type that can stand on it's own vs the pencil type, it will save you lots of frustration
.They are fairly inexpensive (around $20) and can be found at home depot and lowes. There are lots of other alternatives. A chef's torch works great too. Many appripriate torches can be found new online for under $10 too.
On many Genisis mods you can, but the design of the Zenesis does not allow for this easily because the design calls for a slight bend in the wick. No worries though, it is super easy to wrap a coil
. Zen~'s video is a great way to do it.
The torches are fun. I have two now. A chefs which looks cooler and one from lowes.
There is never the need to tear off the coil and start over unless the coil has burned out or it's really old. Your best bet is to always work with the one that's on it, because the coil becomes easier and easier to manipulate as it ages in... never takes more than a few days usually, and once you get good at it, it's much quicker.
Also, a common misconception is that you need to get every coil glowing... well.. when the wick is brand new with no juice on it, that can happen... but if there is juice in the tank, the bottom coil or two may never glow because there's juice on it.
And Jen, it's not just you... people new at this need to resist the urge to start over when it's acting funny. I wonder if this is in the FAQ... it certainly should be!
Ok. So I finally had my "a-ha" moment and I am pleased that I kinda stumbled on it myself.
The slower draw allows me to taste the flavor and create clouds of vapor in a way that I could not before.
Now I want to try it with five coils and see how the flavor is with those.
I kinda think that the pull speed should be added to the FAQ as it makes such a big difference. Like night and day.
I also realized why this was not obvious for me. The attys I was using were designed to be used by pulling fast and hard. These are very different from those.
The slower draw allows me to taste the flavor and create clouds of vapor in a way that I could not before.
Now I want to try it with five coils and see how the flavor is with those.
I kinda think that the pull speed should be added to the FAQ as it makes such a big difference. Like night and day.
I also realized why this was not obvious for me. The attys I was using were designed to be used by pulling fast and hard. These are very different from those.
I wish I had known this in the beginning. I made many a new coil because of that stupid bottom one
I have mentioned this before but would like zen to chime in here if possible.
Pull speed.
The zenesis seems like the pull is more "airy" as several have mentioned.
Although I was not used to the airy draw at first, I have grown used to it and even enjoy it now.
My main question is that I find that with the more airy draw, the slower I pull, the more vapor and flavor I get.
I am assuming that the zenesis is meant to work in this manner. I am wondering if zen can discuss the pull speed that is optimal for his device.
Thanks in advance
I prefer to call the draw "open", not airy...
If you pull too hard on pretty much any mesh/coil atty, it stokes the coil like a forge... that produces extra heat and it burns off the juice really fast... with minimum vapor production...
Slow down...
Pipe and cigar smokers usually acclimate immediately... drawing too hard on a pipe or cigar causes a scorched flavor... on a mesh/coil it causes a dry hit pretty fast. Ultra hot boils off the juice!
Mesh coil attys work best with a "patient" draw... not too fast, and not too slow... but closer to the slow side.
When you take your time with the draw, the flavor expands. The vapor multiplies and the vape is amazing...
I've seen people grab one and just suck the livin' bejesus out of it...
Slow down! Savor it!
I stand corrected. "open"
I was definitely sucking the living bejesus out of it.
Commence with the inappropriate comments.......
The wick insulator is PTFE, correct?
If so, what are the dimensions? I'd like to buy some spare tubing. Just in case.
McMaster-Carr
If so, what are the dimensions? I'd like to buy some spare tubing. Just in case.
McMaster-Carr
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