How do you like your kick by evolv

[SAX]

I have the older style TMF you might want to try cleaning inside your top tube where you are putting the kick. Also, you can remove the spring / fuse since the kick will protect it. Try it out and let me know. I have a ODY at 2.2 ohm coil turned up 3 quarters of a turn and it is work great. Good luck!

Can not get the kick to work in my old-school aluminum GGTS. When I get back from vacation, I'll check it in the SSGGTS to see if that works. It's not a problem with the Kick, to be sure, since I've tried it in a Silver Bullet and Reo Grand with glorious results. Must be something with the connector pin or inside of upper tube on the GGTS. Anyone else have this problem with the older GG's?

 

[NebulaBrot]

I sent this to ltrainer in PM and then decided it is good info for this thread - so, ltrainer, please understand, I am posting here for the benefit of all.

Please be careful with that. As the Evolv web site says:

The Kick is designed to be used only as specified in these instructions. Using the Kick module in any configuration other than as outlined above will VOID THE WARRANTY and will be at your own risk. EVOLV cannot warranty, or be responsible for, any user modifications to the device and/or any application other than as specifically described in these user instructions.

The kick can heat up (from site):

Note: The base of the Kick module is a heat synch. You may notice some warmth on the body of your devices with heavy use. This warmth is normal.

There is a chance that heat could melt the eraser. Be careful

 

[andel11]

it will also go in a phidias. That's were mine is going

Would be great to see your setup in the Phidias mod. I like to try it in one of mine.

 

[tybin]

i still have to send my unit from last batch to him, so that he can kicko-phi it. The newest batch comes kick ready though

 

[andel11]

i still have to send my unit from last batch to him, so that he can kicko-phi it. The newest batch comes kick ready though

It just so happens I sent one of mine in for new wiring, so I sent him a message to him to see if he can make mine as you say Kicko-phi ready.

 

[brian272465]

Ok so I've been using the kick for 32 hours now and I'm avg 5-6 hours vape time its set at 8.6 watts I'm using a 1.5 ohm atty. Not bad consedering I would changge out my 18650s after about 3-4 hours bc of voltage drop. Now I just wait for the batt to die just for that reason its a win

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk

 

[ltrainer]

Thanks for the PM. I havent had any issues. THe heat sink is below the eraser. The Reo being square where the battery fits also leaves quite a bit of space around the kit, more than a tube mod does. TIme will tell. I checked the eraser and theres no burning there but I appreciate the input and will keep an eye on it. Its been vaping great though and I am very satisified with the product.

 

[Str8V8ping]

Put it up to 10 and it is perfect with a 1.5 dual coil atomizer. Dare I say it feels a little less hot, but a nice warmness that seems to perform more consistently than with the 5 volt battery with the same combination. Oddly, it seems to put out a little more vapor and I am getting a better throat hit, not sure why. Tried both kick and 5 volt back to back and there is a difference.

That doesnt make sense reall . At the same wattage/atty/juice combonation you should be getting the same vapor and TH . It doesnt do anything special that a vv device isnt doing . A 5v vape is a 5v vape. If its less hot then somehow it would be dropping more voltage under load then the hotter one. I dont think the kick has that issue. Same combo should be the same though.

I agree Str

This isnt going to get anywhere near replacing a VV device Imo. It is time consuming to adjust all the time on the fly. For the people that use the same atty and juice it will work well for them without much fuss. Good unit for the price and it cheaper than most VV devices. I will stick with my VV's Glad to see it is being sold for those that want to up the game..

Exactly what im saying. The kick is great for 3.7 device or i should say single voltage devices and users . For VV guys its not great. I personally use strictly VV devices and im also adjusting all the time. Its a great thing to have on the market .I just dont see the "Its the holy grail and whats making VV devices outdated"

All in all its a great thing for the vaping community but not for every vapor.

 

[firhill]

Tried both kick and 5 volt back to back and there is a difference.

That doesnt make sense reall . At the same wattage/atty/juice combonation you should be getting the same vapor and TH . It doesnt do anything special that a vv device isnt doing . A 5v vape is a 5v vape. If its less hot then somehow it would be dropping more voltage under load then the hotter one. I dont think the kick has that issue. Same combo should be the same though.

It makes perfect sense, that there would be a difference.

A carto on kick @10W is different (power-wise) than the (same) carto on the 5v device.

 

[mwa102464]

I found the Kick is a little loose in the Reo Grand and I didn't feel like messing with wires so I made this cob job. This was made from an eraser. It seems to work well so far. Holds the Kick in place. It puts enough pressure on it to keep it still. So far, so good. The Kick is set at 9.25 watts and it works for me. I did trim the length down after getting the Kick.

I assume you sanded off the anodizing where your spring is touching to get the ground to make contact ? you didnt mention this in your post ?

 

[txtumbleweed]

Everywhere I checked is sold out. Does anyone know who has them or will have them soon?

 

[Str8V8ping]

Put it up to 10 and it is perfect with a 1.5 dual coil atomizer. Dare I say it feels a little less hot, but a nice warmness that seems to perform more consistently than with the 5 volt battery with the same combination. Oddly, it seems to put out a little more vapor and I am getting a better throat hit, not sure why. Tried both kick and 5 volt back to back and there is a difference.

I agree Str

This isnt going to get anywhere near replacing a VV device Imo. It is time consuming to adjust all the time on the fly. For the people that use the same atty and juice it will work well for them without much fuss. Good unit for the price and it cheaper than most VV devices. I will stick with my VV's Glad to see it is being sold for those that want to up the game..

It makes perfect sense, that there would be a difference.

A carto on kick @10W is different (power-wise) than the (same) carto on the 5v device.

Ah he said 5v battery (unregulated) . Im saying if your vaping a carto on the kick @10W and using a regulated 5v device putting out 10W its the exact same vape . If its a unregulated 5v battery however why woulf that be hotter then the kick at 10w . If your equally comparing then the drop off from the 5v battery should make is less hot . Not important though ,just making conversation.

 

[ltrainer]

Yes, I sanded the right side wall. where the ground spring hits.

I assume you sanded off the anodizing where your spring is touching to get the ground to make contact ? you didnt mention this in your post ?

 

[Dougiestyle]

Has anyone checked the "end-voltage" of their battery after the kick issues the protection signal? I ask because my kick isgiving me the drained signal, and my batts have better than 3.7v, still. I sent a message to Drew @ Nahaler regarding the issue. I post this here as concern and curiosity. Please read your battery after removal when the kick signals, and let's find out where everyone's batt run-time is. I've gotten 2.5hrs, 5hrs, 3hrs from the swaps since receiving it yesterday. 2/3 of the swaps I was able to read the battery with my digital multimeter and got 3.79v and 3.71v. That's only half the run-time. Yes, I'm using fresh, new 18500 IMR batts. I have the kick in my VmodXL with a fabbed negative contact plate for the kick. It works great between 3.7 and 4.2. I want my full battery run-time tho.

 

[NebulaBrot]

Has anyone checked the "end-voltage" of their battery after the kick issues the protection signal? I ask because my kick isgiving me the drained signal, and my batts have better than 3.7v, still. I sent a message to Drew @ Nahaler regarding the issue. I post this here as concern and curiosity. Please read your battery after removal when the kick signals, and let's find out where everyone's batt run-time is. I've gotten 2.5hrs, 5hrs, 3hrs from the swaps since receiving it yesterday. 2/3 of the swaps I was able to read the battery with my digital multimeter and got 3.79v and 3.71v. That's only half the run-time. Yes, I'm using fresh, new 18500 IMR batts. I have the kick in my VmodXL with a fabbed negative contact plate for the kick. It works great between 3.7 and 4.2. I want my full battery run-time tho.

From another thread - not all relevant but addresses SOME of your request for "run times"

I think most IMR 18490/500 are 1100 mah. There are many variables that go into the amps drain. Amps drain determines life per charge cycle. Kick boosts and that uses more amps. LR also demands more amps. Combo of boost and LR will draw the highest amps (lowest batt life/charge cycle). Amps drain is like your RPM/MPG in a car. Lower RPM for the engine (lower amps drain in vaping) is higher MPG (longer vape time). Higher RPM (higher amps drain in vaping) is lower MPG (shorter vaping time).

1.5Ω dual coil is actually two 3Ω coils wired in parallel forcing the low 1.5Ω reading. The power gets split between the coils and this vapes MUCH cooler than a single coil. Because the power is split between two higher Ωs coils (ON DCs) you get a much cooler vape than the watts numbers would seem to indicate.

Using single coil examples (or duals but singles vape warmer) and 10 watts:
1.5Ω at 10 watts needs 3.8 volts and 2.5 amps
3Ω at 10 watts needs 5.4 volts and uses only 1.8 amps

The lower the amps demand = longer battery life per charge cycle.

Aggregate button time is a factor (you'd get more hours if pressing 4 minutes per hour as compared to 8 minutes per hour) as is the conductive efficiency of the various devices (lossy devices can lose power in their design). Tube style batteries are rarely accurate on their MAH ratings and various manufacturers make the true mah even less reliable. So, as you can see, there is no accurate way to calculate average life per charge cycle as there are way too many variables.

I can tell you, after 4 months of using kicks, and I use 2.8Ω cartos at 8.5-9 watts, that I average about 6 hours per 1100 mah AW IMR 18490 battery charge cycle.

Several device manufacturers are looking into making longer tubes and/or extensions to permit the kick to be used with IMR 18650 batteries (most are 1600 mah). There are newer ones rated 2000 mah but I have to wonder how they are stuffing in an additional 400 mah in the same size battery. Perhaps they are lowering the "C" rating a bit. I just do not know and I am no EE.

I wish I could give you an accurate answer but there really ARE too many variables to even offer realistic averages.
Hope this helps - somehow. It sort of is what it is.

There are also many variables which can contribute to your unloaded voltage when the low-batt cut-off activates. It is set to activate at 3.2 volts UNDER-LOAD which will usually be in the 3.4-3.6 volts range unloaded. 0.1 volts is no biggie and, as I mentioned, many variables which contribute to it = age of batts (various charge cycles, etc.), devices, quality of the many contacts/conductivity, vaping combos, etc. There will be fluctuations. Remember - this is the very first electronics add-on ever made to go into a variety of devices and that creates variables that do not exist in a fixed device set-up. There will be ranges of averages but no way to compare one user vs another - not with accuracy anyway. The Kick's low-batt charge cut-off is intentionally programmed to be on the high/SAFE side - obviously a safety feature to prevent any chance of overtaxing the batts. Not everyone will change/swap out batts frequently enough and this sort of forces the issue. Better SAFE than sorry.
Happy

PS:

I have the kick in my VmodXL with a fabbed negative contact plate for the kick. It works great between 3.7 and 4.2. I want my full battery run-time tho.

THis "fabbed" could also be contributing too. From Evolv website:

The Kick is designed to be used only as specified in these instructions. Using the Kick module in any configuration other than as outlined above will VOID THE WARRANTY and will be at your own risk. EVOLV cannot warranty, or be responsible for, any user modifications to the device and/or any application other than as specifically described in these user instructions.

 

[kerswills]

I vape most of my juices at the same voltage. I am not a High Volt Vaper. I also own 2 V V devices, a provari and a JRock, for the few juices that I vape at higher than 4.8v. I also use an ultra sonic to clean my attys which removes the paint and any ohm markings on them. I love the MAP tanks. I own two Silver Bullets and a GVM. So with these factors added up........

The kick is a perfect addition to my vape gear. It has made my 3.7v devices my go to pv's. I have it set around 8 watts and no matter what atty or carto I put on it, I get the vape I want. When people ask what I have it set at, I tell them it is set at "YUMMMMMMMM" I have always worried about taking my V V devices out of the house, as I have an issue with dropping things, and most V V are not as sturdy as my SB's and GVM. Now I have the vape I want in a drop proof mod for on the go.

In the end, it depends on how you vape. Do the math yourself and decide if it fits you or not.

P.S. I think it is completely unfair and unbalanced to compare a $45.00 device to any $200.00+ unit. That said, I use my SB and kick more than my provari.

 

[jimbalny]

Just tried the kick in a provari.

Functions quite well as expected!


But seriously, works great in ma roughstack. Should have my reo grand on monday to be properly kicked.

 

[Dougiestyle]

After reading the kick instructions on evolvapor.com, NebulaBrot, you make solid sense in my findings of production, although I was backward about my thinking that the lower resistance was better by using less voltage to acquire the set watts. I didn't consider the amps that it draws, thus causing lower run times. I guess I'll be using the 3ohm Boges instead of the 1.5ohm DCs. The vapor really does seem comparable when kicked. I just like the idea of the longer lifespan of DCs due to the larger distribution of current not burning the carto so fast. I may order some higher resistance DCs for the battery's benefit

 

[Str8V8ping]

Put it up to 10 and it is perfect with a 1.5 dual coil atomizer. Dare I say it feels a little less hot, but a nice warmness that seems to perform more consistently than with the 5 volt battery with the same combination. Oddly, it seems to put out a little more vapor and I am getting a better throat hit, not sure why. Tried both kick and 5 volt back to back and there is a difference.

I agree Str

This isnt going to get anywhere near replacing a VV device Imo. It is time consuming to adjust all the time on the fly. For the people that use the same atty and juice it will work well for them without much fuss. Good unit for the price and it cheaper than most VV devices. I will stick with my VV's Glad to see it is being sold for those that want to up the game..

From another thread - not all relevant but addresses SOME of your request for "run times"


There are also many variables which can contribute to your unloaded voltage when the low-batt cut-off activates. It is set to activate at 3.2 volts UNDER-LOAD which will usually be in the 3.4-3.6 volts range unloaded. 0.1 volts is no biggie and, as I mentioned, many variables which contribute to it = age of batts (various charge cycles, etc.), devices, quality of the many contacts/conductivity, vaping combos, etc. There will be fluctuations. Remember - this is the very first electronics add-on ever made to go into a variety of devices and that creates variables that do not exist in a fixed device set-up. There will be ranges of averages but no way to compare one user vs another - not with accuracy anyway. The Kick's low-batt charge cut-off is intentionally programmed to be on the high/SAFE side - obviously a safety feature to prevent any chance of overtaxing the batts. Not everyone will change/swap out batts frequently enough and this sort of forces the issue. Better SAFE than sorry.
Happy

PS:
THis "fabbed" could also be contributing too. From Evolv website:

I may be reading wrong since i just read it fast but are you saying that the kick doesnt maintain voltage under load ? If im vaping at 5v i want it out be giving 5v under load all the way til my batt dies . Are you also saying that with a low ohm DCC the kick will cut off at 3.6-3.7v? If so thats a major issue. Thats almost like full batt life. My provari even takes it down to 3-3.1v and maintains the voltage under load exactly until it dies. Same thing with my custom VV mods. Thats a pretty big issue if it can not do this. How long are you guys getting with the kick when running a 1.5dc at 10w?

 

[bluegrasslover]

Everywhere I checked is sold out. Does anyone know who has them or will have them soon?

Super T Mfg will have more soon. Monitor this thread for info http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/super-t-manufacturing/238041-kick-evolv-coming-super-t.html