How do you like your kick by evolv

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Killjoy1

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I may be reading wrong since i just read it fast but are you saying that the kick doesnt maintain voltage under load ? If im vaping at 5v i want it out be giving 5v under load all the way til my batt dies . Are you also saying that with a low ohm DCC the kick will cut off at 3.6-3.7v? If so thats a major issue. Thats almost like full batt life. My provari even takes it down to 3-3.1v and maintains the voltage under load exactly until it dies. Same thing with my custom VV mods. Thats a pretty big issue if it can not do this. How long are you guys getting with the kick when running a 1.5dc at 10w?

It maintains its output voltage just fine, so at any setting it will have the same output until it's time to change batteries. the discussions above are related to the battery voltage, where it is when the kick tells you it's time to change the battery ;-)

With a low ohm DCC, though, you won't get much above 4 volts anyway. at 10 watts on 1.5 ohms that's only about 3.9 volts. I won't be bothering with dual coils and my Kick, I prefer those anywhere from 10-14 watts, so I'll be using the Kick strictly for single coil stuff
 

Dougiestyle

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I may be reading wrong since i just read it fast but are you saying that the kick doesnt maintain voltage under load ? If im vaping at 5v i want it out be giving 5v under load all the way til my batt dies . Are you also saying that with a low ohm DCC the kick will cut off at 3.6-3.7v? If so thats a major issue. Thats almost like full batt life. My provari even takes it down to 3-3.1v and maintains the voltage under load exactly until it dies. Same thing with my custom VV mods. Thats a pretty big issue if it can not do this. How long are you guys getting with the kick when running a 1.5dc at 10w?
The kick doesn't operated at the set volts level. It operates at the watts level. Watts are equivalent to the heat experienced. With your Provari, you may set a new carto/atty @ 3.7v. As the carto/atty ages the resistance increases. To receive the same heat as when it's new you have to bump the voltage up. The kick bumps the voltage for you. It reads the resistance and supplies the adequate voltage for the heat or watts that you have it set to. Becasue your heat demands may be higher than a single battery may have to offer, the kick will boost the voltage to attain the set value.
 

Str8V8ping

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The kick doesn't operated at the set volts level. It operates at the watts level. Watts are equivalent to the heat experienced. With your Provari, you may set a new carto/atty @ 3.7v. As the carto/atty ages the resistance increases. To receive the same heat as when it's new you have to bump the voltage up. The kick bumps the voltage for you. It reads the resistance and supplies the adequate voltage for the heat or watts that you have it set to. Becasue your heat demands may be higher than a single battery may have to offer, the kick will boost the voltage to attain the set value.

i know the difference between volts and watts. I work in electronics. Just trying to find out the true performace of the kick .
 
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Dougiestyle

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The kick performs as advertised, as far as I can tell. Unfortunately, the excess drain on the batt amps affects the runtime of the battery. When the battery's loaded voltage hits 3.2v the kick signals a drained battery. The unloaded voltage of the "drained" battery may read alot higher than one would expect. This has been my experience.
 

NebulaBrot

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I may be reading wrong since i just read it fast but are you saying that the kick doesnt maintain voltage under load ? If im vaping at 5v i want it out be giving 5v under load all the way til my batt dies . Are you also saying that with a low ohm DCC the kick will cut off at 3.6-3.7v? If so thats a major issue. Thats almost like full batt life. My provari even takes it down to 3-3.1v and maintains the voltage under load exactly until it dies. Same thing with my custom VV mods. Thats a pretty big issue if it can not do this. How long are you guys getting with the kick when running a 1.5dc at 10w?
I will give this one more try. But this has all been covered many times. If you "read it fast", don't follow the conversation, and then come back asking people to spend more time explaining to you what has already been discussed - it is sort of disrespectful to those of us who have spent great deals of time trying to help people - including you.

So, let's begin with "no" I did not say any of those things and neither did anyone else trying to help others.
Kick will not hold 5 volts from beginning to end. if you do understand, as you indicate:
i know the difference between volts and watts. I work in electronics.
Kick is the microprocessor of Darwin and Regulates POWER set according to a desired watts level. This means it automatically adjusts volts and amps to achieve the user set watts level and provides the most consistent vape achievable to date. Resistance changes over the life of an atty/carto. People change from one resistance atty/carto to another for different juices, different experiences, etc. When a user sets to a watts level, The Kick will read the resistance and Regulate Power (automatically adjusting volts and amps) to achieve that watts setting. So if a user sets for 9 watts and has a 1.7Ωs atty/carto attached, depending on a variety of factors - including the conductive efficiency of the individual device in use - the under-load voltage should be in the range of 3.9v If that atty/carto is removed and changed to a 2.8Ωs, leaving the kick set at 9 watts, the voltage under load should be in the range of 5 volts. It will change as needed along with the amps. This will provide the same watts (expressed in vaping as heat) consistently from first hit to last - so, consistent heat means consistent hits.

As for DCs, again, if you are working in electronics I would think you may understand this better than I do (as I am no EE). A 1.5Ωs dual coil is actually two 3Ωs coils wired in parallel and this wiring configuration results in a rating (and meter or Darwin/Kick/Provari reading) of 1.5 ohms. There is no way for any device to know there are two 3Ωs coils wired in parallel so power is delivered the same if a single coil 1.5Ωs or DC 1.5Ωs. However, the resultant heat - from the same Regulated Power - will be vastly different. From a single coil that is actually 1.5Ω, lets assume set to 9 watts, should provide about 3.6 volts under load. However, if a DUAL COIL, that same 3.6 volts (and requisite amps - approx 2.4 amps) will be spread across two 3Ωs coils instead of the one single 1.5Ωs coil. This will result in a much cooler vapor on the DC even tho the Regulated Power is the same. This is absolutely the exact same even on a straight 3.7 volts batt on an unregulated device (well, the heat variance (between single coil vs DC) is but the voltage will start higher (delivering higher watts) and suffer a downward curve compared to the Kick which boosts and maintains the same levels).

Some people will use 1.5 single coils, others may use DCs, others will use 2Ω, 2.3Ω, 2.5, 2.8, 3 and ANY atty/carto can vary up to +/- 0.3 ohms from rating due to manufacturing inaccuracies. Kick will accommodate ALL of these (and provide consistent watts adjusting for Ωs variances) but each, again - if you are in electronics you know this - will use a different amps level. Amps flow IS battery life. Kick boosts and this uses more amps. The lower the resistance, the more amps will be demanded for any given watts level (as compared to the same watts level using higher resistance). So, there are many variables that affect the amps flow and so there is no way to provide accurate use times from one user to another. Of course, aggregate button time also affects "hours" per charge cycle; if you press the button for a cumulative average of 4 minutes per hour you will get twice the "hours" as compared to a cumulative average of pressing 8 minutes per hour.

As for the low batt charge level cut-off, I will say it again (but it is also on the EVOLV website and all you have to do is READ it), the device is programed to detect low battery charge at 3.2 volts UNDER-LOAD (Nothing on Kick works without a load = atty/carto attached). If you remove that battery and meter it unloaded, it should read in the basic range of 3.4 to 3.6 volts unloaded. However, there are (again - if you are in electronics you already know this) many variables which can affect the unloaded level as compared to the loaded level. This can include the resistance attached, the conductive efficiency of the device being used, the age and condition of the batteries, etc., etc., etc. There is no EXACT comparison from any one combination to another as THERE ARE TOO MANY VARIABLES. The cut-off level is intentionally and purposefully programmed at a HIGH/SAFE level to protect the batteries from being over-drained. People vary in their habits and awareness - this forces the issue into a safe range and IT WILL VARY.

The Kick is a great add-on, and it is EXACTLY THAT - an add-on and the very first such technology to be introduced into the vape experience to be used in a variety of devices. The very simple fact of various devices creates a variety of variables the manufacturer CANNOT control (cleanliness of device effects conductivity, configuration of device effects conductivity, batteries used of varying ages, varying chargers, etc ad-nausium).

If you want fixed 5 volts - get a boosted device that digitally regulates (like Provari) and you will get fixed 5 volts. But the entire reason FOR variable WATTS (Power Regulation) is to have a microprocessor that compensates for as many variables as possible and provides the most consistent power delivered = consistent hits. Fixed voltage does not result in the most consistent hits but Regulated Power/watts DOES.

This product will NOT be for everyone. EVERYTHING in vaping is subjective. What you like, I may not and each of us have our own individual preferences. You like certain juices, certain model attys/cartos and someone else likes something completely different. So far, there appears to be no shortage of people who want and enjoy the Kick. If you don't want it... If you are curious, get one (or go to a vape meet where someone has one - and try it). If you get one and decide it is not for you, considering they have all sold out in about 20 minutes at each vender (hundreds of them cumulatively), I would imagine you will have no problem selling it fast. As it has a 10 watts max, people who like to vape at higher watts levels may not find satisfaction from this and use other alternative set-ups. However, so far, I have read multiple posts from people who thought it would not be enough and are finding it very satisfying. As we discussed, DCs are different and 10 watts on a DC is very different from 10 watts on a single coil. Each of us have our own individual "sweet spot(s)".

If you have more questions, PM me and I will try to help you - but please READ the discussions first because, so far, everything you are asking has already been discussed multiple times, and answered by me (and others) multiple times, in various threads.

Happy :vapor:
 
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firhill

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i know the difference between volts and watts. I work in electronics. Just trying to find out the true performace of the kick .

I will give this one more try. But this has all been covered many times. If you "read it fast", don't follow the conversation, and then come back asking people to spend more time explaining to you what has already been discussed - it is sort of disrespectful to those of us who have spent great deals of time trying to help people - including you.

Happy :vapor:

Great explanation and thanks for taking the time...again.

If you have to post again, I suggest colouring crayons.:facepalm:
 

~Shado~

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Lol...some folks get a bit perturbed fairly easily.

I reread all 9 pages.....nowhere was stated an answer to Str8's question.
His question is valid....Yes, there is no gettin around Ohms Law....but I think Str8's concern/question was leading to whether or not Kick's ability to "boost" remaining voltage to accomplish desired results. Apparently not...as there is remaining voltage unloaded.
His comparison is the fact that the ProVari "will" continue to boost remaining volts in battery to provide higher requested setting until the battery is exhausted.

Watts, amps, volts, resistance....the end result is still the same...to achieve one....there must be enough of any other offered.

In a nut shell...no...the Kick has a limited boost ability to use all available battery voltage....and it does so on the high side.

A reasonable question he asked....just not a clarified answer was given....
 
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retird

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Earlier you said you had a Kick coming....Try it out and you can find out the true performance, as you work in electronics...vary the watts and find your sweet spot, then throw on a different aty/carto (different ohm rating)and see the difference between varying the volts as opposed to varying the watts...

Let us know your conclusion(electronically speaking)..
i know the difference between volts and watts. I work in electronics. Just trying to find out the true performace of the kick .
 

NebulaBrot

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I've posted this in several threads. I use 2.8Ωs cartos and usually vape in the range of 8.5 thru 9-ish watts. I average 6 hours (+/-), depending on how much I am vaping, using an AW IMR 18490 battery and the Kick. I get consistent hits first to last. Here are under load photos with Kick in Precise Plus and Silver Bullet. I have house guest arriving and will be otherwise occupied. Have a great week all.

IMAG0166.jpg
IMAG0163.jpg


EDIT: I have had ALL versions of the prototype Kicks and the production. Results have been consistent across all.
 
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txtumbleweed

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I am curious if anyone has tried the kick with the Indulgence? I think it should work fine with the Indulgence V-2 but with the V-3 there might be a problem being as the switch doesn't come off and you load battery from the bottom. I guess you would put the Kick in and then the battery but it might not be very easy to get the kick out to change watt adjustment if the fit is very tight.
:2cool:
 
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Credo

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I am curious if anyone has tried the kick with the Indulgence? I think it should work fine with the Indulgence V-2 but with the V-3 there might be a problem being as the switch doesn't come off and you load battery from the bottom. I guess you would put the Kick in and then the battery but it might not be very easy to get the kick out to change voltage if the fit is very tight.

Which ever end of the battery is the positive end, that's where the kick should go. The bottom side of the kick (marked with the + sign) needs to touch the positive end of the battery.

I don't think it matters if the mod's fire switch is before (at the negative end) or after (past the kick at the positive end) the battery so long as the Kick is installed to the positive end of the battery and is grounded per instructions?
 

Killjoy1

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The kick is of more use to me as a variable regulation device, I can toss it into a previously unregulated device and set it to a nice daily sweet spot for a consistent all day vape.

This is, I believe, the biggest benefit of the Kick. I don't need a heck of a lot of adjustment most of the time, but I love having a consistent vape no matter where the battery's charge level is at :vapor:
 

IcaBoD

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mwa102464

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For me being able to toss these kicks in Mods like my Reo Grands and getting the same exact vape every time I push the button or any other Mod you put the kick in is what peeks my interest MOST, rather then having the power cell degrade the vape as the voltage drop off happens, this Kick does exactly what it was built to do the way I see things. The Kick defiantly does its Job and does it quite well and as intended plus we have an extra safety layer of protection now built in to our PV's with the kick. Been running mine with the newer Callies Kustoms Batts and this combo is working really well, these newer Panasonic 18650CH IMR's are one heck of a Batt and match up really well with these Kicks.
 

Liv2Ski

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For me being able to toss these kicks in Mods like my Reo Grands and getting the same exact vape every time I push the button or any other Mod you put the kick in is what peeks my interest MOST, rather then having the power cell degrade the vape as the voltage drop off happens, this Kick does exactly what it was built to do the way I see things. The Kick defiantly does its Job and does it quite well and as intended plus we have an extra safety layer of protection now built in to our PV's with the kick. Been running mine with the newer Callies Kustoms Batts and this combo is working really well, these newer Panasonic 18650CH IMR's are one heck of a Batt and match up really well with these Kicks.

Thanks now another package on its way. Will try these batts in the Ghetto Bolt!
 

~Shado~

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Thank you... :toast:

I in no means meant that the device itself was limited (my apologies if interpreted that way)...I knew that it was a matter of design and calcs decided upon when manufacturing.
I was mearly pointing out that Str8's question was not truely answered....and you have done just that.

I myself never run my batts below 3.6 -3.7 v...in general, on any of my gear....many mods used daily...and just charge them nightly.

*I have my own Kick in hand....just waiting on batts to arrive..:(
 
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