How to: Build the Puck

[phoenix6]

This is my Puck... I built it 3 weeks ago, runs like a champ and is my favorite of the mods I have taken on so far. It uses a 510 connection that is flush to the box instead of recessed, that's the only difference. It looks tad messy inside, but everything is secure and soldered. I bought 4 rechargeable aaa batteries with a charger from radio shack for $20, they are vivitar. OH and amazing battery life at 5v or 3.7v, all day and into the next if needed, with moderate to heavy use.

Oh and a trick I discovered (well something I thought about to get 3.7v for my LR cartos) I remove one battery and pinch a wire between the connection points in it's place and that's it, 5v to 3.7 (3.75 to be exact)

Thank you to the author for such a detailed tutorial, I LOVE mine

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

 

[TomCatt]

Puck you are awesome!!
I finished my version of The Puck two nights ago. I started vaping on it yesterday and it the batts are still going. I used 3 AAA boxes and wired the control box to use two batts. I made a couple of dummy batts and put one dummy and one NiMH in the control box. Used a 510 connector and am using XL clearomizers at 3 ohm.

Started vaping yesterday at 9am. Took an unloaded voltage reading after lunch - 5.2 V and this morning batts are still coming it at 5.1 V.

 

[WillyB]

This is my Puck... Oh and a trick I discovered (well something I thought about to get 3.7v for my LR cartos) I remove one battery and pinch a wire between the connection points in it's place and that's it, 5v to 3.7 (3.75 to be exact)

Thank you to the author for such a detailed tutorial, I LOVE mine

Not to rain on anyone's parade but after reading a few posts with folks having low loaded volts issues I ran a test.

Here's a set of 4 AA NiMN's, each equally charged to ~1.37V.

This is the unloaded output.

This pic (actual loaded/vaping volts) is with a 2Ω resistor, which is very close to a Joye atty and not quite LR.

Note in an actual mod the volts would be even lower due to the additional resistance of the switch/soldering/wire etc.

 

[Angler]

This is out of sight! A guy comes along and builds something, that functions, very well out of very little.

That's an A+ to ThePuck!

 

[TomCatt]

Parade is not being rained on. . Perfectly happy with my Puck. Paid less than $10 for the parts (not $50-$100 for a commercial mod) and had the enjoyment of making it myself. I have three sets of 1000 mah batts, with one set lasting me more than a day. <<dancin in da rain>>

 

[TomCatt]

Quick note:
On my Puck-style mod: using 5 AAA NiMH batts Voltage with no load = 6.43; under 3.7 ohm load voltage = 5.02.
Using 4 AAA NiMH batts Voltage with no load = 5.21; under 3.7 ohm load voltage = 3.85. This is after vaping on the same batts for ~8 - 9 hours.

 

[Sandfury]

Just wanted to say that I have become one of the newest puck owners. I built my puck tonight, my first mod, and I couldn't be happier. I got all my parts from Radio Shack except the following: 510 Battery Connector and BOGE Cartomizer (MadVapes). I did one slight modification to the connection for the atomizer/cartomizer. I used an RCA Female plug, on the puck, and a RCA male plug to allow for swapping out of battery connection types. The RCA Male end (drilled out to 11/32th of an inch) allowed me to perfectly sit in a 510 battery connection. This connection also allows me to use the Ego-T Tank Cone Style Atomizer. So, if I ever get a different type of connection, I can simply drill out another RCA Male connector solder the connections and just swap it out. One mod to rule them all so to speak. Here is the picture.

 

[TomCatt]

Welcome to the Puckster family, Sand

 

[HaploVoss]

I will whip out the meter and such later today, but regardless of what voltage is coming across, there must be a noteable difference between the 4 AAA / AA combo as opposed to the standard 3.7v Lith as I have several 901 and KR808-D batteries. Many different styles (manual, shorties, x-long, etc.) and none of them produce the amount of instant-hit and vapor that my puck I just made does. So either fall-off, voltage, or whatever... at least on my standard 901 attys and cartomizers - it haz itz. (Cartomizers are crazy. can't press the button for more that a few seconds or you will burn them too hot and get the nasty taste, but 3 seconds is a nice hit w/ lots of vapor out of 'em)

And for the record I did have a good full day yesterday for testing - 7am - midnight. 9 hrs driving, lots of breaks waiting for software loads. I finally had to swap batteries around 9pm. Still working, but was falling off. Swapped out of the car charger and puffin away again. By the time I got the machines setup for their second set of updates and let them run their course, my dead batts were recharged for their next round today sometime. Lovin this!!

Take care all,
- Hap

 

[Stosh]

Finished wiring up everything tonight, bought batteries and loaded it up. NOTHING !!!
Checked the batteries, 5.35v unloaded, OK no problem, traced it wire by wire.

Quick tip for modders testing a new mod:
REMEMBER to TURN ON THE MASTER SWITCH!!

Now working like a champ.........

 

[TomCatt]

Thanks for the update Hap.

Lol Stosh. I had been asked numerous times over the years by the in-house repair technician when putting in a call; "Is the O-N / O-F-F switch on the O-N position?"

 

[TallGrass]

Well... I'm retiring my Faux-Puck, the first mod that I made... loved it while it was in use but now I'm mainly using a dual 18650 (parallel) mod (bigger version of the puck.. definitely not made for people with small hands.)



The switch is oversized, but its what I had available so I used it and that one blob of a solder joint is not proper but it functions. I first started vaping on it with 4 duracell NiMH cells, but during an experiment charge cycle @ 1000mah resulted in one of them venting (temps of each cell rose to 95F, not critical but just enough to kill one) I now keep the charging to a cool and steady 400mah, no problems since.

(btw.. I didn't have the proper triple A battery holder on hand so I used a double A holder and epoxied strips of lexan into place.. its a tight fit but I can remove the cells when I have fingernails.)

Those 510 batteries are toys.. lol.

 

[scalewiz]

Uh-oh, wiped out my puck. I use a 510 connector, flush mounted, and JB welded into place. Seems that I didn't get the epoxy all the way around the connector. Liquid seeped in and destroyed the seal between the epoxy and the plastic.

Love Radio Shack. Gonna get me a new box half, new switch and battery charger connector, an hours labor, and I'm gonna be back in business.

I use my puck almost exclusively, since 1000 mah lasts me all day, never have been able to run it down. I plug it in each night for a slow overnight charge, and I'm good to go. I use 2 ohm attys with this thing and it works great. Gotta hit it like you really mean business though, but when it comes to vapor production it will keep up with anything reasonable.

 

[TomCatt]

Uh-oh, wiped out my puck. I use a 510 connector, flush mounted, and JB welded into place. Seems that I didn't get the epoxy all the way around the connector. Liquid seeped in and destroyed the seal between the epoxy and the plastic.

Love Radio Shack. Gonna get me a new box half, new switch and battery charger connector, an hours labor, and I'm gonna be back in business.

I use my puck almost exclusively, since 1000 mah lasts me all day, never have been able to run it down. I plug it in each night for a slow overnight charge, and I'm good to go. I use 2 ohm attys with this thing and it works great. Gotta hit it like you really mean business though, but when it comes to vapor production it will keep up with anything reasonable.

Do you mean the epoxy holding the two boxes together was affected? Or that which anchors the atty connector? Couldn't you just re-epoxy? Although I guess a rebuild would be more fun!

 

[scalewiz]

Just the atty connector. Rebuilding is more fun than cleaning up the box and trying to get the adhesive to work again. Makes a mess of everything. Already got a bag of parts ready for putting together at work tomorrow. Just need the box. While I'm at the Shack, might as well pick up a couple of AA boxes for a larger puck. Been reading on one of the threads in the new members forum pertaining to battery danger. I think that sticking to this NiMH battery technology is much safer and makes more sense seeing as how we all love to play.

I also like low-level charging overnight without having to watch the device. Not sure if I am doing this correctly, but I use an AC adapter with a no-load output of 6.4 volts, 150 ma. This would theoretically give me a maximum voltage applied to the cells at 1.6 volts per cell. With only 150 ma of charge current available, I cannot detect any heating of the battery pack after charging overnight, and my device vapes all day. Don't really know if I am fully charging my batteries or not, or if I am doing them any kind of disservice, but it seems to work OK. Tried a larger charger one time, but my battery pack quickly heated up...didn't do that again!

 

[Curvychic]

Subscribing to this thread so hubby and I can reference it while trying our hand at modding. Great tut with awesome pics!!!

 

[ancient puffer]

Subscribing to this thread so hubby and I can reference it while trying our hand at modding. Great tut with awesome pics!!!

You won't be sorry. Its an easy build, fun to do. The only downside is being bitten by the modding bug, and all the dust collecting on my "store bought" PV's

 

[Curvychic]

Have been bitten and totally smitten! LOL The hubby completed his first flashflight mod. It's pretty awesome, but could some cosmetic tweaking....That's where I come in! LOL

 

[Para]

Uh-oh, wiped out my puck. I use a 510 connector, flush mounted, and JB welded into place. Seems that I didn't get the epoxy all the way around the connector. Liquid seeped in and destroyed the seal between the epoxy and the plastic.

JBW doesn't provide a good bond between metal/plastic. Try this instead

It also isn't as affected by ejuice as is JBW

I still use JBW for specific applications, but if you want a strong bond, that epoxy does the job really well.

 

[ancient puffer]

....That's where I come in! LOL

You do realize, of course, that pics are mandatory