HOW TO: DC Jack as 901 Fitting
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You can do either, but I've only done the pure solder bridge technique. Simple enough... just add a couple of 'drops' of solder to the place where you see the little tab part go under the threads, then use the same connector to run the -/+ wires depending on how you've got that ran to your battery (should be the negative though if you are following Nico's steps accurately - should be the tab right next to the center post connector.) I mistakenly removed the wrong tab and had to do more soldering to connect the other tab to the threads. Minor detail, but I missed it.
someone on a german forum where i am currently active, brought up the idea
that you can pull this "tab part" just out.
i tried with a very small bladed screwdriver sliding under it and leveled until i got it out (took a minute of sweat) .i could even place it on the lock nut without soldering, building a perfect bridge.
my dilemma is, i have currently only 801 Atomizers
, otherwise my first homework could be ready.if you think soldering is better, you still can, but much easier.
Ok, I have found a glitch, so am updating you all. SOME atomizers do not make contact as well as others. So far, all I have had to do to remedy the problem is to open the center pin a little with tweezers. There is a seam in the center pin. I just stick one side of a pair of tweezers in there and pry it open a millimeter or two, and it works fine. I tried to take pics, but none of them are any good at illustrating this - even in macro mode.
someone on a german forum where i am currently active, brought up the idea
that you can pull this "tab part" just out.
i tried with a very small bladed screwdriver sliding under it and leveled until i got it out (took a minute of sweat) .i could even place it on the lock nut without soldering, building a perfect bridge.
my dilemma is, i have currently only 801 Atomizers
if you think soldering is better, you still can, but much easier.
This is a very good idea, I'm surprised no one commented on it. By prying up on the metal tab, you can bring it up so that it completes the circuit with the nut (and of course, the threads). No solder bridge required.
Bravo Kelemvor
So, after finding another DC connector in my desk (the RS close to my house is now sold out) and my last battery box, I decided to make one last mod.
As you can see, the UltraFire charger is made a little different than the TrustFire. Works like a charm! Someone else asked about doing this with other batteries (CR23?), but I don't know if this a good idea when dealing with a mod that uses more than 1 battery. I don't want a whole new battery discussion started as in other threads, so this is only for single battery mods.
And you can see here why the UltraFire is not a good choice..
Oh yeah.. I also tried prying up the tab on the DC connector, yep, it worked great too. A little difficult getting a small screwdrivers tip to pry it up, but only took a few minutes and there is no need to solder a bridge.
As you can see, the UltraFire charger is made a little different than the TrustFire. Works like a charm! Someone else asked about doing this with other batteries (CR23?), but I don't know if this a good idea when dealing with a mod that uses more than 1 battery. I don't want a whole new battery discussion started as in other threads, so this is only for single battery mods.
And you can see here why the UltraFire is not a good choice..
Oh yeah.. I also tried prying up the tab on the DC connector, yep, it worked great too. A little difficult getting a small screwdrivers tip to pry it up, but only took a few minutes and there is no need to solder a bridge.
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In cases where the atty center contact does not reach the dc socket center pin, rather than adjust the atty one can build up the center pin a little with solder.
I tried that on a mod and had the solder break off inside of the atomizers hole, but YMMV.
The OEM connectors work *great* though ^_^
Getting a solid connection is essential, bu sanding the solered surface, heating the pin rather than the solder etc.
Ideally the centre pin would be spring loaded.
Zippitydodaday!!!!!!!! It works, my Nicostick! On my 4th or 5th try. I think that center post might have been the problem all along. I was trying to make the center post space in the middle, and inadvertently touched the side of the dc jack and got a spark, LOL. So I decided to slightly bend the center post off center, and it worked! It smokes like a chimney with a broken in atomizer. Thankyou, Nico for sharing your design, and your help. It's been a real learning experience,.
YES. It should turn a nice glowing orange color in like 2 seconds - kinda like the toaster does if you look down inside while you are toasting your bread, same concept really.
Great. thanks, Nico. Okay, onward to build one for my dad.......when I get more parts.
This is apparently available in the UK as this : http://www.t2retail.co.uk/Components/Size_N_Coaxial_DC_Power_Jack_W_Switch
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Cheaper to pick up at Maplins. The 2.1mm requires less filing than the 2.5mm version. DC power jack.
You mean : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1407 ?
It actually works out a bit more expensive with P&P, I don't have a Maplins local enough to pop in but I do have other bits I need to get from Maplins to make it worth getting it from them, the size as you say will help being a little bit smaller. Thanks
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You mean : 2.1mm Single-Hole-Fixing DC Socket : DC Power Connectors : Maplin ?
It actually works out a bit more expensive with P&P, I don't have a Maplins local enough to pop in but I do have other bits I need to get from Maplins to make it worth getting it from them, the size as you say will help being a little bit smaller. Thanks
Yes that's the one.
The american ones apparently work straight off. In the UK one needs to file down the threading a bit so that the inner pin is not so deep. About 2mm need to be removed. Check for electrical connectivity every so often then file a bit more if neccessary. Best is to lay the file flat and move the connector. After, i use a tiny screwdriver to prise open slightly the inner pole's two halves to get air flow through the connector. When the atty reaches the center pole you can feel it; have a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more from then and the connection will be a good one.
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