I put a very light coating of silicone grease on the spring before I slid it back. I hope that next time I change those devils in the kitchen it will be easier.
I love the youtube, so much good stuff.
I love the youtube, so much good stuff.
And also, if the cover is frosted glass, you can use an uncoated bulb for a little xtra brightness.
REPAIR YOUR FLUORESCENT LIGHT
Lights dim, don't come on, or flicker? Put new bulbs in and the same thing? Tired of it? Fix it! Your ballast is shot and it's an easy fix. Ballasts generally last 5 - 10 years, some more if you're lucky. The video below shows how to do it. Forgive the guy for standing sideways the first minute of the video. He does stand up straight eventually. He has a fluorescent fixture on his work table for better filming. You don't have to take your fixture off the ceiling. He does a good job explaining how to fix it. The only thing I will add is how to find the replacement ballast. There is a part number on every ballast. It's almost always in big bold print and you can't miss it. Get the number off your old ballast before you take it off and do an Amazon search (or similar) for that same number. Presto! Lastly, do not forget to turn the power off to the light before you begin to work. This job probably takes only 20 - 30 minutes and all you are doing is wiring the new one exactly the same as the old one. No big deal. Anyone can do it.
Lights dim, don't come on, or flicker? Put new bulbs in and the same thing? Tired of it? Fix it! Your ballast is shot and it's an easy fix. Ballasts generally last 5 - 10 years, some more if you're lucky. The video below shows how to do it. Forgive the guy for standing sideways the first minute of the video. He does stand up straight eventually. He has a fluorescent fixture on his work table for better filming. You don't have to take your fixture off the ceiling. He does a good job explaining how to fix it. The only thing I will add is how to find the replacement ballast. There is a part number on every ballast. It's almost always in big bold print and you can't miss it. Get the number off your old ballast before you take it off and do an Amazon search (or similar) for that same number. Presto! Lastly, do not forget to turn the power off to the light before you begin to work. This job probably takes only 20 - 30 minutes and all you are doing is wiring the new one exactly the same as the old one. No big deal. Anyone can do it.
There used to be a plastic spacer of sorts between the handle and the door, covering the screw and maintaining pressure on the handle to stabilize it. I’m not sure how it happened, but that spacer part cracked and fell off, it was just plastic. I’m fairly certain it was mother’s fault but we don’t need to pass around blame at this point.
Do I just look for a replacement part and then screw the handle back on? It jiggles and drives me nuts (although it is purely aesthetic, the dishwasher is perfectly functional)
What brand dishwasher is it? And about how old?
It’s a Bosch and probably 5 yrs old.I believe this is the part I need:209
Would I need any other parts?
Probably. Some of these handles are pretty easy to fix/replace, others can be a pain. Look at the sticker on your dishwasher and give me the model number. The sticker is likely on the face of the outside. Open the door and take a look around. It's gotta be there somewhere.
Yeah, 209 would be the part. My best guess is you can take that inner door cover off (without having to take the whole door off) and get to the back of that bolt that holds the handle on. Probably need a torx driver to remove the screws holding on the door cover (send another closeup picture of the screw head(s) holding that inner cover on. Can buy one of those at Lowes for cheap. Just get the right size torx screwdriver. Probably a #20. Here, look at this video. Should give you a good idea how it is done.
Well that sure looks easy enough! I’ll order the parts and get to work. I’m pretty sure I have a Torx 20.
Thank you!
Thank you!
Just pay attention to how it came off so you know how it goes back on. Remove stuff as gently as you can so parts n stuff don't go flying around that you are unaware of where they came from. EZPZ.
Cell phone camera every step of the way.
REPAIR WOOD BLINDS
Have expensive wood blinds? Are they boogered up? Want to unbooger them? Here are two videos. The first shows you how to replace the ladder strings (the strings that tilts the slats).. The second video shows you how to replace the pull string (the string that lowers and lifts the blinds). I also attached links for the strings. These are for 2" blinds.
I did this a few years ago. I have wood blinds all around the house. A couple of them got messed up. I didn't want to pay for new ones. They're not cheap. So I fixed them instead. It was worth it. Probably not worth doing on cheapy blinds. Just need a little patience.
Ladder String: https://www.amazon.com/Asia-Buy-Ladder-String-Blinds/dp/B07T9ZFJ33/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TCUKKW6A2QS1&keywords=ladder+string+for+wood+blinds&qid=1561137577&s=gateway&sprefix=Ladder+string,aps,141&sr=8-1
Lift String: https://www.amazon.com/40-Feet-Stri...r+wood+blinds&qid=1561138172&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Shop around a little if something works better for you.
Have expensive wood blinds? Are they boogered up? Want to unbooger them? Here are two videos. The first shows you how to replace the ladder strings (the strings that tilts the slats).. The second video shows you how to replace the pull string (the string that lowers and lifts the blinds). I also attached links for the strings. These are for 2" blinds.
I did this a few years ago. I have wood blinds all around the house. A couple of them got messed up. I didn't want to pay for new ones. They're not cheap. So I fixed them instead. It was worth it. Probably not worth doing on cheapy blinds. Just need a little patience.
Ladder String: https://www.amazon.com/Asia-Buy-Ladder-String-Blinds/dp/B07T9ZFJ33/ref=sr_1_1?crid=TCUKKW6A2QS1&keywords=ladder+string+for+wood+blinds&qid=1561137577&s=gateway&sprefix=Ladder+string,aps,141&sr=8-1
Lift String: https://www.amazon.com/40-Feet-Stri...r+wood+blinds&qid=1561138172&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Shop around a little if something works better for you.
Anyone know how to straighten the bowing on wood blinds? They sag in the middle. I guess if I took them down and did something, it would work. Nah, not gonna do that.
Without taking them down, that's tough.
But for sagging wood, maybe try ......?
So, we should all invest in Tesla?I remember talking to my dad, looking at options for investment. Amazon came up and he said they were losing money on every sale and would be a lousy investment
What coulda been
Great idea for a thread, watching (and researching capacitors for my AC unit)
REMOVE BATHROOM MIRROR FROM WALL
I needed to re-caulk around the top of the back splash around the bathroom sink. Because I'm somewhat ...., I wanted to re-caulk around the entire back splash...side and back. Only problem is the wall mirror had to come down so I could access the work area. I looked at it and thought, "No problemo". Except it wasn't obvious how to do it. Now, some loony installers glue the mirror to the wall. How dumb! Taking a glued mirror off a wall is a nightmare. Fortunately, I believe most mirrors are attached to the wall using clips. Some clips have screws you can take out from the front and it's obvious how to to remove them. But one of the more common clips has two on the bottom that are fixed and two on the top that slide up so you can tilt the mirror toward you and lift up to remove. Then when you go to put the mirror back on you just reverse the procedure. One of my top clips needed a little persuasion so I put the screwdriver under the clip and slightly tapped it with a hammer. Be careful. Hammers and mirrors are not the best of friends. This video gives you an idea.
I needed to re-caulk around the top of the back splash around the bathroom sink. Because I'm somewhat ...., I wanted to re-caulk around the entire back splash...side and back. Only problem is the wall mirror had to come down so I could access the work area. I looked at it and thought, "No problemo". Except it wasn't obvious how to do it. Now, some loony installers glue the mirror to the wall. How dumb! Taking a glued mirror off a wall is a nightmare. Fortunately, I believe most mirrors are attached to the wall using clips. Some clips have screws you can take out from the front and it's obvious how to to remove them. But one of the more common clips has two on the bottom that are fixed and two on the top that slide up so you can tilt the mirror toward you and lift up to remove. Then when you go to put the mirror back on you just reverse the procedure. One of my top clips needed a little persuasion so I put the screwdriver under the clip and slightly tapped it with a hammer. Be careful. Hammers and mirrors are not the best of friends. This video gives you an idea.
Yes, sometimes it pays to know what you're getting into. Our house is 15 years old, and I was going to replace the backsplash. I do & fix most things around the house, and had done a little bit of tile work maybe 15 years ago with my brother, who did tile installation for a while, so I figured I could do this easy. Bought the tile, tile saw, nippers, grout, etc. Watched about 40 videos on how to remove the old tile. Lots of methods, all looked pretty easy.
Luckily, I figured I'd start in a small area - the butler's pantry. I quickly learned that none of the people in the videos were facing what I was. It was utterly impossible to remove the tile without totally destroying the drywall behind. And I don't mean slight damage. Every piece of tile that came off brought the entire piece of drywall behind it. I figured, I was ready to make a mess, and skimcoat the whole thing, but wasn't willing to remove all the drywall, about 50' sq., and replace it. I learned finishing my basement before that I don't like drywall work, and knew safely removing all of it was more than I wanted to do. And even if I was inclined, I'm kind of .... myself and not the fastest worker. My wife wouldn't have stood for dealing with the mess that long.
Got bids from contractors, and picked one. I asked him how he was going to remove the tile, and he told me he was going to remove the entire walls, down to the studs - that if the original tiles were installed directly on drywall, with no primer or paint, it was basically impossible to remove the tile without taking out all of the drywall. Lesson learned. The installation might be easy, but the demo was hard!
So I returned everything but the tile, and now I'm in the middle doing something I know I can do start to finish - painting all the stained wood kitchen cabinets white, saving over $6,000.
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