Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)
- Thread starter rifky
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- coppervape hussar rta
- Status
Caramel Ice Cream recipeMy eyes just lit up big time - Caramel Ice Cream recipe pleeeeeeeeeaaase
And I second putting VG on your o-rings, I do the top cap o-rings and deck o-ring every fill or wick
FW Butterscotch Ripple 3.7% --- creaminess + helps balance the caramel
INW Caramel 1% --- stuff is powerful
FLV Caramel 6 drops --- balances and rounds out the INW Caramel very nicely
FA Vanilla Classic/Madagascar 3%
FA Vanilla Ice Cream 1.5%
FA Vienna Cream 0.8%
FLV Cream 5 drops --- there for adding mouthfeel + more creaminess / can be skipped if need be
It takes a good 3 week steep. Although I have had it after 7-10 days and it's good. Just better longer.
I know you like sweeter juices so up the FA Vienna Cream (sweetener I'm using). Up it to 1-1.5% or just try upping it in 0.25% increments. Or just add some CAP what is it, their sweet stuff you use, I can't remember the name. Just found mine ... CAP Super Sweet.
The FA Vanilla Ice Cream is awesome and one of the nicest ice creams I've found. No peppery taste like with TPA VBIC. I got it from Chefs Flavours UK. If you don't have it you can sub LB Vanilla Ice Cream or VT Vanilla Ice Cream. You may have to increase the % for either of those to like 2-2.5%.
Mine have totally < e x p l o d e d > since I've been slowly switching my rda's + rta's over to claptons.Sweetwe can have all 3 of us having taste bud explosion
Almost like going from a b&w tv to a color tv ... and I remember that very well from the 60's. Heck my wife and I didn't buy a color set until 1984 hahaha, not kidding.
You got it.Thank you
Let me know what you think.
Next batch I'm going to add some WS-23 to test.
I don't know why it's taken me so long to try claptons - but I wish they would hurry up and arrive
Yep, I lubed the o-rings with a food grade lubricant - Lubri-Film & ejuice. I’ll try different o-rings.Heartsdelight, have you tried putting some VG around the 2 o-rings above and below fill port?
Maybe that might help with getting it off/on.
These 2 o-rings under the TC...
View attachment 828577
Also if those 2 o-rings tolerances are looser than should be that may be why you are having difficulty. Perhaps change those o-rings and see how it is then (something to try).
My top cap is not too tight nor too loose.
I'm loving Heartsdelight Apple Cream Cake and have it in a Prime. It's totally awesome!
Very happy I made a second batch too.
I have a caramel ice cream juice in the X and it is soooo rich and tasty with the clapton.
Thanks for the LV info.
So happy you’re enjoying Apple Cream Cake.
We finally got our power back. We decided not to use our generator cuz I take care of a cat who lives outside & she would be horrified with the noise the generator makes. Therefore no food or water for her. I couldn’t do that to her. So we have to throw out all our food in 2 freezers.@Heartsdelight , sorry I forgot to ask you if they restored power yet or if your husband was able to get the generator running???
I hope it is all squared away for you all and you didn't lose anything.
Thanks for asking.
I got my mtl yesterday. I got it working pretty good, but it keeps slightly flooding the deck. Should I just add more cotton or is there another trick? I wicked it like Klaus did in his video.
Original one has a ”reducer” in the chimney, Coppervape one seems not to have it?
Original one has a ”reducer” in the chimney, Coppervape one seems not to have it?
I would just wick slightly more, should do the trick.
I’m not sure about the reducer. Perhaps the other peeps will know.
It's flooding the deck because there isn't enough wick in the juice wells. If you used Klaus's MTL video your wick ends are not long enough.
Klaus is extreme with his use of so little cotton. He got it working and @AngeNZ tried his wicking method with short tails and it didn't work out. Is that right Ange?
Also Klaus has installed his coil belly up. Probably doesn't make a difference but I found belly down much easier to install the coil as in Todd's video.
Like @Heartsdelight suggested add more wick, cut it right at the edges of the deck and tuck it in. See Klaus's video at 18:53 - that is perfect IMO.
What is your coil size, wraps and ID?
Depending on your setup you may have to trim some cotton along the topside of the cotton to allow the 2 juice holes to feed the wick properly. If you are using a 2mm coil you shouldn't have to trim any. With a 2.5mm coil you may have to trim some as Klaus does at 20:21 by trimming some off the top. I haven't trimmed any of my cotton wicks and for me the Project X is working fine. With rayon I trim a healthy amount off the sides (like 50% or so).
What are you referring to with a "reducer" in the chimney? Klaus has an authentic and in his video there is no extra reducer in the chimney cap. The MTL version is already a very small sized chamber same as with the standard Project X. See his video at 5:12 and 17:05 there is no extra part. Maybe I am just confused by what you mean???
Last edited:
I cut my cotton level level with the side of the deck, fluff up and once fluffed, I trim a little off, then lightly push down into the wells, did my 2nd re wick yesterday, and since I've had, it has stayed dry as bone, which impressed me, even my kayfun primes seep sometimes, but not the X
The official Hussar Project X sized o-rings, as listed at several sites, are not correct for the clone.
Haha... I tried o-rings, from the o-ring store, on the tank section above and below the fill port and they are not the correct size for the clone. The top cap is too loose with them. On closer inspection with a magnifying glass the cross section of the clone o-rings is ever so slightly thicker. With a mm ruler they look to be spot on with a CS of 1mm. I can't tell if they are 1.2mm, 1.3mm etc. The ID is correct.
All I could do was laugh .
I'm going to borrow my brother's digital calipers so I can get proper measurements of the clone o-rings.
I talked to the o-ring store earlier and they will exchange the o-rings.
Stay tuned for updated sizes.
Haha... I tried o-rings, from the o-ring store, on the tank section above and below the fill port and they are not the correct size for the clone. The top cap is too loose with them. On closer inspection with a magnifying glass the cross section of the clone o-rings is ever so slightly thicker. With a mm ruler they look to be spot on with a CS of 1mm. I can't tell if they are 1.2mm, 1.3mm etc. The ID is correct.
All I could do was laugh
.I'm going to borrow my brother's digital calipers so I can get proper measurements of the clone o-rings.
I talked to the o-ring store earlier and they will exchange the o-rings.
Stay tuned for updated sizes.
I got flooding from Klaus's method, but my wicks were possibly cut too short. What's working the best for me is the 'French method':
It's pretty close to how you'd wick an RDA. If you get dry hits, just thin your tails a bit
The official Hussar Project X sized o-rings, as listed at several sites, are not correct for the clone.
Haha... I tried o-rings, from the o-ring store, on the tank section above and below the fill port and they are not the correct size for the clone. The top cap is too loose with them. On closer inspection with a magnifying glass the cross section of the clone o-rings is ever so slightly thicker. With a mm ruler they look to be spot on with a CS of 1mm. I can't tell if they are 1.2mm, 1.3mm etc. The ID is correct.
All I could do was laugh
I'm going to borrow my brother's digital calipers so I can get proper measurements of the clone o-rings.
I talked to the o-ring store earlier and they will exchange the o-rings.
Stay tuned for updated sizes.
This calls for a classic kiwi expression
Well bugger me with a fish fork
I learn something new everyday. I will remember that one.This calls for a classic kiwi expression
Well bugger me with a fish fork
Yes, they didn't exactly fit like socks on a rooster.
Thanks for the replies guys and gals. I'll try the French method for wicking 
I use 3mm id coils, maybe 6 wraps.
I mean the black thing inside the top chimney part, you can see it in 4:44 on the video. It's probably not important part but doesn't look very expensive to add in the package? SXK clone seems to have it, looked on pictures on FT.
I use 3mm id coils, maybe 6 wraps.
What are you referring to with a "reducer" in the chimney? Klaus has an authentic and in his video there is no extra reducer in the chimney cap. The MTL version is already a very small sized chamber same as with the standard Project X. See his video at 5:12 and 17:05 there is no extra part. Maybe I am just confused by what you mean???
I mean the black thing inside the top chimney part, you can see it in 4:44 on the video. It's probably not important part but doesn't look very expensive to add in the package? SXK clone seems to have it, looked on pictures on FT.
Thanks for the replies guys and gals. I'll try the French method for wicking
I use 3mm id coils, maybe 6 wraps.
I mean the black thing inside the top chimney part, you can see it in 4:44 on the video. It's probably not important part but doesn't look very expensive to add in the package? SXK clone seems to have it, looked on pictures on FT.
I did some FT foofoo, no idea what the black thing does, but yeah - the sxk mtl x has it and the coppervape mtl x doesn't:
SXK mtl x:
Coppervape mtl x:
Thanks, now I understand.
Thank you. Nice FT foofoo btw.
Perhaps it maintains the bore size from the chimney through to the DT with the SXK vsn???
- Status
