Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)

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johnpalley

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Right, your wick shouldn't be loose enough to move like that. Once the wick gets wet and starts to collapse away from the top inside of the coil, your firing up metal with burnt juice on it. It's the tails in the X that need to be thinned enough to not interfere with the turning of the tank. So says Todd and I haven't had any problems with his wicking suggestions.
I agree but when you see what all these People on YouTube are doing and what the people in this thread are describing it sounds like there wicks are looser than mine. When my cotton is in you have to pull on it with a descent amount of force to move it. I’m curious what some people in this thread think about my wicking. I guess you can prob tell how tight it is based on how much cotton there is
 
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ShowMeTwice

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I agree but when you see what all these People on YouTube are doing and what the people in this thread are describing it sounds like there wicks are looser than mine. When my cotton is in you have to pull on it with a descent amount of force to move it. I’m curious what some people in this thread think about my wicking. I guess you can prob tell how tight it is based on how much cotton there is
I'm still trying to catch up with the last page of posts ... and specifically yours. :)

I agree with you. There is an official Hussar video I saw where the person doing the wicking had it very very loose in the coil. My thought was "no way" that IS just too loose based on my experience with every atty I've ever had. Youtube is kind of, IDK, funny at times I guess.

You would have to pull on my wick with a decent amount of force to move or remove them as well. So it seems to me that you and I are wicking the same and with very similar amounts.

I need to go back to the last page and catch up with your posts and photos. I'll get on that after some chores here and dinner.

I'll be back later with more...

ETA: When I say a decent amount of force I do not mean that it warps the shape of the coil. As I said previously when I insert a wick in a coil I am able to pull it side-to-side with some, but not great, resistance and no great movement of the coil. Just slight coil movement.
 
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johnpalley

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I'm still trying to catch up with the last page of posts ... and specifically yours. :)

I agree with you. There is an official Hussar video I saw where the person doing the wicking had it very very loose in the coil. My thought was "no way" that IS just too loose based on my experience with every atty I've ever had. Youtube is kind of, IDK, funny at times I guess.

You would have to pull on my wick with a decent amount of force to move or remove them as well. So it seems to me that you and I are wicking the same and with very similar amounts.

I need to go back to the last page and catch up with your posts and photos. I'll get on that after some chores here and dinner.

I'll be back later with more...
No rush at all my friend. Appreciate it! That makes me feel a lot better that your wicking similar. Yeah in a lot of those YouTube videos there wicking crazy loose. Talk to you later on
 

ShowMeTwice

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Ok so I just had to take that cotton out and re wick my project x. It was not tight enough! I’m so glad that I wicked it a little looser this time so you guys can see how tight I need to wick this in order for it to work properly for me. What was happening is there was less crackling and when I release the firing button you could here the cotton being vaped for a couple seconds. This is what normally happens when I wick a little looser. In a little while I’ll end up with burnt hits. Here is how tight I normally go and have no problems. Now when I release the firing button the Vape stops immediately and there’s way more steady crackling. If I lightly tug the cotton it will not move. Before it would slightly moveView attachment 848399 View attachment 848401 View attachment 848403 View attachment 848405
Your coil looks great and so does your wicking.

With cotton I cut my wick pretty much same as you do and to ~2-3mm beyond the edge of the deck. Lately I have not been trimming any additional material off of my wicks for the X. Previously I've trimmed some off the top, from the sides and both. All 3 worked for me. I haven't noticed any difference in vape quality between no trimming and trimming of the wick. I never comb cotton or rayon.

There is a video from AVS where the owner offers some tips for getting longer life out of our coils and wicks. He gets a month or longer on a wick and his coils last up to 6 months. He vapes sweet juices.

I think one of his best tips is to continue inhaling for a couple seconds after releasing the fire button on your mod. It serves to cool down the coil and prevents the wick from getting singed. When you take a hit, release the fire button, and stop inhaling in one motion your coil is still very hot which continues to fry juice and singe the wick. Hence the sound you are hearing for a couple seconds after.

I mention this because of your comment "when I release the firing button you could here the cotton being vaped for a couple seconds".

His tip works and is probably why I get longer wick life. I have a wick in the X I am vaping now that is approaching 1 month old and it still vapes excellently.

See starting 13:49 in the 2nd video on this page: Stainless Steel Coil & Wire Instructions and Tips

Maybe try that technique and see how it works out for you.

Both videos on that page are very helpful as are the written tips he offers on the page. Note in the 2nd video his preference is for wicking that is not too tight in the coil. Whatever works for each, just works.
 

AngeNZ

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    With regards to the mechanics of the X RTA - I literally treat it as an RDA. Apart from the squonking bit and the 2ml bit ;)

    the deck is RDA style. The top chamber connects to the deck in an RDA way. I wick it similar to an RDA - just a bit shorter tails.And it vapes 95% as good as an RDA.

    The first thing you do with a new RDA is pray to the vape gods, and wrench off the top cap. You then VG the heck outta the deck o-rings. With the X RTA, we just have a few more to VG - the wee ones below the tank, and the o-ring on which the tank sits.

    I love how different it is from every other RTA I've tried - and the flavour is just amazing :wub:
     

    ShowMeTwice

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    With regards to the mechanics of the X RTA - I literally treat it as an RDA.
    As do I.
    But I never say out loud "RDA" while working on an X for fear the X will become an X file. o_O

    the deck is RDA style. The top chamber connects to the deck in an RDA way. I wick it similar to an RDA - just a bit shorter tails.And it vapes 95% as good as an RDA.
    100% yes. The deck and slammed cap scream RDA. :thumb:

    The first thing you do with a new RDA is pray to the vape gods, and wrench off the top cap. You then VG the heck outta the deck o-rings. With the X RTA, we just have a few more to VG - the wee ones below the tank, and the o-ring on which the tank sits.
    VG is everyone's friend ...SLOP... it on!!! Check. :shock:

    I love how different it is from every other RTA I've tried - and the flavour is just amazing
    1,000,000% yes. :p

    This simply means that the X is the most RDA like RTA out there. :w00t:
     

    Janusz

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    There is a video from AVS where the owner offers some tips for getting longer life out of our coils and wicks. He gets a month or longer on a wick and his coils last up to 6 months. He vapes sweet juices.
    .

    Probably he vapes less than 1 ml a day. :lol:

    I vape 8 - 10 ml a day and on second day of vaping I start to notice loss of flavor and difference in draw.

    I change wick and coil every other day... in the past I was cleaning my coils with dry burning but I noticed how much stuff was flying when I blow air on hot coil... I do not want to inhale that dry tiny particles of carbon that sticks to wire... brushing it with water takes more time than securing new coil... price is no issue... new coil cost me probably less than 3 cents and wick another 2 cent.. If somebody is using expensive exotic wire maybe cleaning make some sense but for most simple wires be it SS or Kanthal it does not make sense to me.

    One month old wick is for me just gross...

    One of reasons I really love Project X is fact that installing coil is extremely easy... much easier than in Siren... much, much, much easier than in Doggies or Dwarvs... no worries and magnifying glasses needed to perfectly and consistently position it, no legs slipping out when you want to center it... the same about wicking... extremely easy for me... I had much more problem wicking doggies or dwarvs... the only time I got mild dry hit with Project X was when I forgot to open JFC...:oops: the only time I had leak when I cut my wicks too short (I like short wick method).

    I am no expert on flavor... my taste buds are damaged by 40 years of smoking... but flavor I am consistently getting from Project X is better than I was getting from my Sirens, Doggies and Dwarvs. If anybody want to trade Project X (regular not MTL) I can offer for it Fresia, Savour, Dwarv, Vapefly Galaxy... I can offer also Doggies and Sirens but my doggy and Sirens are pretty beaten up... and modified (drilled bigger hole). Two (any combination) of my used RTAs for one used Project X... let me know if anyone interested :sneaky: If not I will order my third from fastech :)
     

    ShowMeTwice

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    I really appreciate the offer and thats a great idea. The only thing is I only have one project x. I have another idea though at least for now. I'll send you a package of the wire I use which is the coilology 2-30/40 mtl ni80 fused clapton wire and you can try different coils in your x and tell me if you run into any issues. That would also be great for me cause you can tell me how the flavor compares to other wire your using. If you respond back and tell me your having no issues i'll immediately order a second project x and i'll test that out to make sure its not an rta problem. If im still having issues at that point i'll send you one of the rta's and we can do your idea.

    Sounds good?
    Thanks for the offer and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I was waiting to hear back from my brother who has many different wire types. He has a spool of Coilology 2-30/40 MTL fused clapton NI80 that he hasn't used (go figure). Next time he comes over he's bringing it. When I get it I'll whip up a coil, check it out and report back. :)
     

    johnpalley

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    Your coil looks great and so does your wicking.

    With cotton I cut my wick pretty much same as you do and to ~2-3mm beyond the edge of the deck. Lately I have not been trimming any additional material off of my wicks for the X. Previously I've trimmed some off the top, from the sides and both. All 3 worked for me. I haven't noticed any difference in vape quality between no trimming and trimming of the wick. I never comb cotton or rayon.

    There is a video from AVS where the owner offers some tips for getting longer life out of our coils and wicks. He gets a month or longer on a wick and his coils last up to 6 months. He vapes sweet juices.

    I think one of his best tips is to continue inhaling for a couple seconds after releasing the fire button on your mod. It serves to cool down the coil and prevents the wick from getting singed. When you take a hit, release the fire button, and stop inhaling in one motion your coil is still very hot which continues to fry juice and singe the wick. Hence the sound you are hearing for a couple seconds after.

    I mention this because of your comment "when I release the firing button you could here the cotton being vaped for a couple seconds".

    His tip works and is probably why I get longer wick life. I have a wick in the X I am vaping now that is approaching 1 month old and it still vapes excellently.

    See starting 13:49 in the 2nd video on this page: Stainless Steel Coil & Wire Instructions and Tips

    Maybe try that technique and see how it works out for you.

    Both videos on that page are very helpful as are the written tips he offers on the page. Note in the 2nd video his preference is for wicking that is not too tight in the coil. Whatever works for each, just works.
    Appreciate the response. I got tied up also last night and couldn't respond back. Appreciate the tip about still inhaling for a couple seconds after releasing the button. Ive actually heard that before. The point I was trying to make was that when that happens thats a signal for me that the cotton isn't tight enough. It also doesn't vape the same like that, theres less vapor and theres a delay when you start to inhale so I would never keep using the vape like that anyway. When I make it tighter the two second thing doesn't happen so I dont really have to worry about it. Appreciate the link im gonna check out that video when I have time.
     

    johnpalley

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    Thanks for the offer and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I was waiting to hear back from my brother who has many different wire types. He has a spool of Coilology 2-30/40 MTL fused clapton NI80 that he hasn't used (go figure). Next time he comes over he's bringing it. When I get it I'll whip up a coil, check it out and report back. :)
    Oh yeah? Nice! Im really curious to get your thoughts on that wire. Id actually prefer to do a 6 wrap spaced coil but im unable to because it barely ever wicks right. Your telling me my coil and wick looks good too so this has me even more curious on how it works out for you. Appreciate everything
     

    muth

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    So that tells me there are differences. I never got around to measuring the spare o-rings that came with any of the X's.
    If the measurements are different to the original, then technically it is not a copy.
    All of this has me thinking.....I hope you can see in my photo that I can't seat my top cap all the way down. I pushed hard to no avail. I might remove one of the bottom o-rings or find some thinner ones to replace both of them. That said, I noticed that the spares that came with it are thinner than the ones that are fitted on it now.
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    ShowMeTwice

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    @ShowMeTwice I did break it down and lubed the small o-rings and find the AFC ring moving more smoothly than before. Before, it didn't move at all.
    Awesome!!! :) I'm happy that helped.

    I also slop VG on the bottom stainless steel piece as that is where those two small o-rings make contact for opening/closing the JFC. No lubrication there and you end up with friction making JFC operation rough at best.

    Like so ... and then I put the PEI tank section on this SS bottom piece and just work it open/closed. It does help for smoother JFC operation.
    IMG_1251 copyA.jpg


    All of this has me thinking.....I hope you can see in my photo that I can't seat my top cap all the way down. I pushed hard to no avail. I might remove one of the bottom o-rings or find some thinner ones to replace both of them. That said, I noticed that the spares that came with it are thinner than the ones that are fitted on it now.
    That top cap fitting has me thinking the clone X components are made in different factories. Someone probably decided the exact measurements and tolerances don't matter "all that much". The kind of cost saving decisions management, or manglement, types make.
    Yep, the o-rings are wonky sized as I learned the hard way. :facepalm:
     

    muth

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    Yes, 2 red buna's. FT also sells a spare o-ring kit for the X. I bought one to check the o-ring sizes but haven't done that yet. I need to get un-lazy and compare sizes. :)
    You don't seem lazy to me, lol. I'm the lazy one, forever procrastinating. I have attys from the year '01' that I haven't built yet :lol:
     
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