I hacked my hana v3 mini

[Ryan Neal]

This is my first post so be gentle!

what I have done is modify my hana mini that came with a 1200mah battery to house an 18650 battery. I am using the 3100 mah flat tops.

The process is fairly simple; a few patient hours with a dremel constantly watching my work, and then the electrical.

I removed the LiPo cells and cut the leads, then soldiered some small cooler plates to the ends and rand them to the old points.

The tricky part was insulating the positive lead. I used epoxy as that is commonly what is used for circuit boards.


Enjoy! This things a beast!

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[Stosh]

A few points for you to consider for your safety, the LiPo cells were installed in this mod for their high drain - high amperage specifications.

You did not mention exactly what 18650 you are using, but if it's 3100 mah, it sounds like an ICR low drain model, not even a very good choice for a Vamo.

Lastly the charging circuitry in your mod is designed to charge a LiPo cell not a standard 18650 cell, the amperage may be too much to safely charge the battery in the mod, or use it as a pass-through.

 

[certus11]

good stuff now stick a sony vtc5 in there for 2600 mah

Sent From Vape Heaven

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Nice...good job!

Need to find you some Efest 35A 18650's

 

[Ryan Neal]

I've got the sony "30amps" in there right now, I forget the model number...I trust orbtronic datasheets were on point tho....the charging port is designed from the chip manufactures datasheet to be within the same specifications to charge a either battery...if you go to their websight they will give you a pin out/etc...this is identical to the nitecore parameters. Usb pass through is also not entirely correct. It's a usb charge. If you vape without a battery it will damage this board because the cell charge is the only way for it to work, and no where near the mah potential of the battery.

I also figure since the full sized unit charges batteries they have the same chip/parameter...interestingly the datasheet says the chip can only handle down to .5 and not Hannah's .3, so I am not 100% the device doesn't have a custom set of parameters.
In 48 hours, I've found this battery to keep me Rollin out clouds with minimal time on the charger/swaps....been good so far

One thing I have noticed is how the battery indicator seems to be touchy. I find that with an 18650 the meter goes up and down as the current adjusts itself after using it. Also when it's 'empty' typically I have 10-20% left


I plan on doing a more technical video (ie wire gauges to use and types of epoxy resin blah blah) for those interested. In a decade of being an electrical mechanical service tech I've learned to curb my overall nerdinessif possible hahah

 

[Stosh]

The Sony 30 amp are a good choice, not 3100 mah (that's where you threw me...) Good news on the charger chip, as charging is where any problem is more likely to occur.

I've seen the battery indicator bouncing, and low voltage cutoff mentioned a few times in the Modding sub-forum, can't remember if a cause or solution was found. Check some of Mamu's threads in there for the DNA-30, lots of nerds technical people bouncing around ideas and solutions.

 

[Ryan Neal]

Yeah man! The best part is whipping out a small mini and watching peoples minds get blown...we have a vapefest comin up this weekend I'm lookin to confuse some people haha


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[WakeUpDead]

My mind is blown now, so i would have to buy a $300 Hana DNA30, if i can even find one to buy, Ebay has them for $600, but even so say I get my $300 Hana mod, so I bust it open and start going to town ripping out batteries and wires, then I fire up a Dermal OMG and start wacking at the box to fit a 18650. OK mind blown!!!!!!! Just the size of your balls sir, Bravo Bravo! LOVE IT!

 

[wowoboi]

It does not takes a bigballs to do it, if you read and understand the board sheet and understand what you need to do, even with simple filing tools and average soldering skills, plus the right items at $2 you can complete it in less than an hour.

@stosh: the dna charging board is meant for max current of 1A if I'm not mistaken, so there's no problem charging even a 18650 ICR.
***Its current is 0.5A! I'm sorry, which means it'll take ages to charge a 18650 :/

@TS: did you drill a hole at the side at the battery compartment? It seems that battery venting issues might/will occur for your case and even ruining your internal. if you get what I mean.

 

[Topher36]

Looks good but I'm not willing to tear up my mod. My luck so far this year I would fry everything.

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[Stosh]

It does not takes a bigballs to do it, if you read and understand the board sheet and understand what you need to do, even with simple filing tools and average soldering skills, plus the right items at $2 you can complete it in less than an hour.

@stosh: the dna charging board is meant for max current of 1A if I'm not mistaken, so there's no problem charging even a 18650 ICR.

I was just throwing the question out there, I don't the specs on the board, but it's something that needs to be considered. Modding a high amp, high wattage rig of any sort without knowing the specs for sure is a recipe for disaster....

 

[wowoboi]

I agree, but mostly likely the board is integrated to have a logic circuit in it to handle such failures. Nevertheless, it's better to be safe then sorry.

 

[Ryan Neal]

Thanks everyone

It took me three days because I kept stopping to re-evaluate progress/clearances. There's some thin spots (the bottom screw of the back door) to def. avoid!!!

Putting a dremel onto the casing def runs a very razor sharp line between brilliant and stupid lol

The amp current of the board doesn't surprise me really. I vape really heavily and it holds me off mostly, usually I do one swap a day (mnke' on a mech I was doing maybe 4 a day) that's also what makes me skeptical about "pass thru" I think it's more like trickle charge port...



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[lithod02]

what is the epoxy/resin holding the board and usb port in, I need to replace my usb charging port and been cutting the goo off the usb board with an xacto knife, hopefully there is an easier way.

I figured out it was hot glue, used hot glue gun to melt it and replaced usb charger from evolv and working like a charm again. and still looks stock in there

 

[Ryan Neal]

Hot glue is ok, I have had heat related issues with it becoming mailable again which is no bueno...but that's what I'd do lol

The only reason I used epoxy is for it's insulative properties


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[Joshleeman]

I saw ppl ripping on u on fb for doing this and thought what a bunch of douchbags. It's ur device and if u feel comfortable modifying it then do it. Yeah it looks a little rough in the pic but thats the INSIDE, as in the place no one would ever see. If it made you enjoy your device even more then good for you man. I bet tons of ppl will benefit from a detailed guide of how u did this.

 

[Ryan Neal]

Thanks man. After using it for two weeks non stop I'd say it's definitely a good stable build. I'd do it again for sure..now moving onto some okr builds and a few raptor prototypes!


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[brekec88]

Dude thats awesome!! I can't believe this thread isn't more popular. I wonder all the time why Hana Modz didn't put a 18650 in the mini and just have one device. I guess you got to have something to improve upon for the v4.

 

[brekec88]

I wanna see more pics!

 

[KurrptSenate]

now get a full size and put 2 18650s in it