I have an idea, can YOU tell me how to make it?

[xLowEndx]

Hi modders!

I have made plenty of single 14500 mods, some with LEDs too. I understand parallel vs series and a few other basic principals but after that I'm lost.

What I want:

- 3 AA box (Battery, juice bottle for bottom feeding, components/switch)
- mini usb charging (I would like to be able to charge and vape simultaneously)
- possible mosfet so I can use a small switch
- LED to light up the bottle (I know this is novel but if it can be done...)
__________________________________________________________________________________

I'm not really interested in VV at the moment so I think that's all I want at the moment.
I see all these schematics posted and I get so confused as to why certain caps are used AND WHY. I see resistors tied across certain boards and diodes being used, I JUST DON'T GET IT!!!

Any info would be greatly appreciated, this is a huge jump IMO from a Nicostick...


UPDATE:

- possible LEDs for charging status
- what the ef is PULSE WIDTH MODULATING?

 

[Lazrah]

Here is a link for putting a charging circuit in your box http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/91081-added-usb-charger-3-7v-box-mod.html Instead of the Power jack you could put a Female mini usb in its place.

I haven't done it yet but I have the parts ready. Looks pretty simple. As for the bottom feed there are some tuts stickied.

There is plenty of room in the 3x AA box for all this.

 

[xLowEndx]

Thanks Lazrah, the bottom feed is the least of my worries (it doesn't involve wires or current lol).

 

[CraigHB]

I see all these schematics posted and I get so confused as to why certain caps are used AND WHY. I see resistors tied across certain boards and diodes being used, I JUST DON'T GET IT!!!

Don't feel bad about that. It takes some study in electronics to understand that stuff. If it's any consolation, some of those parts are there merely because they are recommend by a part's data sheet (its user guide) not necessarily because a modder put them there to perform a specific task.

- what the ef is PULSE WIDTH MODULATING?

Most simply, it's using a pulse instead of steady voltage to power something. Since vaping is about heat and heat is about power, you can control your vaping heat by pulsing voltage on the atomizer coil at different intervals. It's just like spinning a wheel on a bicycle. If you wack the wheel for a short time it spins slower, if you wack the wheel for a longer time, it spins faster. Power delivery behaves much the same way when pulsing voltage. If you pulse voltage longer you get more power, shorter and you get less power. That's called duty cycle and it's a precentage that represents the width of the pulse.

 

[asnider123]

I have never done a feeder nor a buikllt-in USB charger (though I have a couple of Janty Sticks with USB), but I can help you with the touchie, having done a few.

First, it is quite simple for a 3.7v mod, just a handful of components. It gets more complicated as you add other stuff. Here's a basic touch-switch diagram:

Uploaded by asnider123 at 2011-04-22

Now, please understand that this is using an "n-channel" MOSFET. This means that the N (or negative) side of the circuit is what is getting switched off and on. This also means that, if you are making a meal mod (flashlight, tube,etc), you will need to make it a POSITIVE GROUND circuit. Attys and cartos don't care which direction the current flows, so this is not a biggie. You just need to rememb er to always put your battery in backward.

Hope this helps.
Alan

 

[xLowEndx]

Sorry for my lack of knowledge and TOTAL CONFUSION! Based on the attached pic:

1. What is the point of this? Would it be necessary with a normal tact switch?

2. Why is this resistor here between source and gate?



I guess my largest confusion is the "flow" of electricity... Can u post a pic of how it works? This is what I'm familiar with w/ an on/off switch right before the momentary:

 

[asnider123]

Sorry for my lack of knowledge and TOTAL CONFUSION! Based on the attached pic:

1. What is the point of this? Would it be necessary with a normal tact switch?

2. Why is this resistor here between source and gate?

View attachment 51501

I guess my largest confusion is the "flow" of electricity... Can u post a pic of how it works? This is what I'm familiar with w/ an on/off switch right before the momentary:

View attachment 51502

1. Tactile switches are rated for like 50-100ma, where the atty itself draws 1.5-2 AMPS, way more than the switch is capable of handling. Using this same diagram, you can put a tiny tact switch where the touch pad is. Your switch will last indefinitely because it is working within it's specs.

It's kinda like the starter in your car. You turn the ignition switch and a small amount of current activates a starter solenoid (basically a relay), the solenoid itself provides massive current to operate the starter.

2. The MOSFET fires when the "gate" goes high (B+) .. and may latch, meaning it keeps firing indefinitely, burning up your atty and sucking your batty dry. The resistor between source (B-) and the gate draws the gate back to B- when you're not firing the atty. The higher the resistor, the more sensitive the touch-switch is. If you use a tact switch instead, a 2-4M resistor would be adequate, 10M works just fine (use them all the time)

Does that make it mud clear

 

[asnider123]

Also, the switch before the push button is your "master switch", keeping from accidental pocket firing of your mod. Not essential but really a good safety idea.

 

[xLowEndx]

2. The MOSFET fires when the "gate" goes high (B+) .. and may latch, meaning it keeps firing indefinitely, burning up your atty and sucking your batty dry. The resistor between source (B-) and the gate draws the gate back to B- when you're not firing the atty. The higher the resistor, the more sensitive the touch-switch is. If you use a tact switch instead, a 2-4M resistor would be adequate, 10M works just fine (use them all the time)

Does that make it mud clear

Okay I think I get that. I'm still trying to understand the flow of the circuit. So with the N-type FET tied into the negative/ground the power goes into the master, then the momentary, then out of the momentary into the gate, right? The ground or negative from the atty and led would travel to/with the drain and the negative from the batt completes the circuit?

I know the pic shows it all but the whole 3 pin idea is making it hard (for me ) to see how it works...

 

[xLowEndx]

Also, the switch before the push button is your "master switch", keeping from accidental pocket firing of your mod. Not essential but really a good safety idea.

I fully understand this, yay!

 

[xLowEndx]

I'm still trying to understand the flow of the circuit. So with the N-type FET tied into the negative/ground the power goes into the master, then the momentary, then out of the momentary into the gate, right? The ground or negative from the atty and led would travel to/with the drain and the negative from the batt completes the circuit?

I know the pic shows it all but the whole 3 pin idea is making it hard (for me ) to see how it works...

This is the last step I believe, can anyone answer this?

 

[mv2envy]

Do yourself a favor and built a VV using the 6amp murata OKR-T chip. Dont use a linear regulator if you value battery life!

 

[jrm850]

Does this help?
Circuit Simulator Applet

 

[xLowEndx]

Does this help?
Circuit Simulator Applet

This was a ton of help! Seeing the way the current flows really helps. So I have a couple of fets on order along with 2 usb chargers and some female mini-usb connectors. Now all I need is some tubing for the bottom feed system and a few PTC fuses.

Anything else I may need?

 

[xLowEndx]

Okay so sorry for the crappy hand drawn schematic, does anyone see anything wrong with this? I may need a resistor between gate and source right? What about a resistor between the tact switch and gate?

 

[asnider123]

Okay so sorry for the crappy hand drawn schematic, does anyone see anything wrong with this? I may need a resistor between gate and source right? What about a resistor between the tact switch and gate?

View attachment 53563

OK, let's see .... it is wrong. The atty + should go straight to the B+ line, not thru a tactile switch. The tactile switch goes ONLY to the GATE. Otherwise, you will be drawing a couple of amps thru the tact switch, you will burn it out.

Yes, you need a draw-down resistor (about 2-4 meg would be fine) between the source and gate, to draw it down when yer not pushing the tac switch. Also, add a 1K resistor in line with the tac switch to control current thru the switch.

Also, what's that PTC?

Basically, you can take the diagram in post #5 and just substitute a tactile switch for the touch pads and it will work fine. And yes, it looks like the charging circuit should work finr, might want to put a diode in that circuit, may have a feedback problem (tho probably not)???

Hope that helps.
Alan

 

[xLowEndx]

Uuumm, so you're saying that the atty - to drain is okay but the atty + needs to be wired to where? B+? Isn't that the gate? So I should run the atty + before my tact switch? See my confusion? The PTC is this one. I'm going to throw it in for over current protection.

What about this diode you mentioned? Where would I put it and why?

 

[jrm850]

By B+ he means the positive terminal of the battery. The swich should only connect the gate to battery +

This is what he is describing minus the Fuse. Put the fuse in line right after the positive terminal of the battery before the switch.

Circuit Applet

 

[jrm850]

Click on the switch to open and close it. The lamp represents the atty.

 

[xLowEndx]

oh okay, I think I understand. I was told to put the PTC as close to the battery as possible so I put it right next to the negative because the positive will have the master on/off right next to it. So I should put it in between the master and the tac switch?

And what about that diode Alan mentioned?