I just want the best...
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if you're getting gurgling with the protank 2 and you took OUT a flavor wick, that's your problem. taking out wicks will open up a bit of space and allow juice to flow in. Try putting the wick back in and if it still gurgles.. then.. well let me ask you this. are you using the little beauty ring and screwing it all the way up against the tank? because the tighter you make the draw the more juice will flow in. Pbusardo (on youtube) just did a video about the importance of airflow.. might be worth a watch to you (was for me).
One more thing i thought i'd mention.. be careful when screwing the bottom caps on your evods. I've broken two from screwing the caps on too tight and pushing up the metal center post which cracks the mouth piece..
On your protank mini.. See if you can scratch it with a butter knife or something. plastic will scratch WAY easier than pyrex. I know my wifes mini protank II felt like plastic compared to my protank II( i was sure of it), but i couldn't scratch it, so it was definitely pyrex..
One more thing i thought i'd mention.. be careful when screwing the bottom caps on your evods. I've broken two from screwing the caps on too tight and pushing up the metal center post which cracks the mouth piece..
On your protank mini.. See if you can scratch it with a butter knife or something. plastic will scratch WAY easier than pyrex. I know my wifes mini protank II felt like plastic compared to my protank II( i was sure of it), but i couldn't scratch it, so it was definitely pyrex..
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Thanks Chris,
On the last rebuild I put the other wick back in but it didn't change anything. When you say the beauty ring do you mean the knurled ring on the base?
I assume you meant you couldn't scratch your mini protank with a knife? I'll try that lol
On the last rebuild I put the other wick back in but it didn't change anything. When you say the beauty ring do you mean the knurled ring on the base?
I assume you meant you couldn't scratch your mini protank with a knife? I'll try that lol
In addition to the previous answer, there's another possibility: Some of the moisture in the central tube might be condensation. This can be reduced somewhat by continuing to draw vapor into your mouth for a moment after removing your finger from the firing button.
It's a kind of cone-shaped metal piece that covers the unused eGo threads when a Protank is attached via 510 threading to an eGo-style battery.
also, i meant to say COULDN'T scratch the mini protank II.. I'll edit for clarification.
Been pretty busy this weekend, but have sorted a couple things...
1. The EVOD works fine on the iTaste now, I just have to very slightly unscrew the connection between the coil and the EVOD, doesn't really bother me.
2. I tried your test Chris and couldn't scratch the protank mini tank. It just seems plasticky compared to the Protank 2, but I guess it must be glass
Thanks for that.
I'm still having gurgling issues with the Protank 2 though, what else can I try? A third flavour wick? Chris - what you said about the beauty ring - I'm not even getting to that point with it. Once I've assembled the Protank 2, I give it a toke (without connecting it to the battery) and it's gurgling already.
Two outta three issues solved so I'm almost there lol
1. The EVOD works fine on the iTaste now, I just have to very slightly unscrew the connection between the coil and the EVOD, doesn't really bother me.
2. I tried your test Chris and couldn't scratch the protank mini tank. It just seems plasticky compared to the Protank 2, but I guess it must be glass
Thanks for that.I'm still having gurgling issues with the Protank 2 though, what else can I try? A third flavour wick? Chris - what you said about the beauty ring - I'm not even getting to that point with it. Once I've assembled the Protank 2, I give it a toke (without connecting it to the battery) and it's gurgling already.
Two outta three issues solved so I'm almost there lol
if you're getting gurgling straight away when you fill the protank, you MUST have a seal missing, not assembly tightly enough or could possible even be a manufacturing defect. First, check and make sure all the orings are on the coil head. There's one on top around the post and another on the bottom below the flange that the wicks sit on. even if you're sure they're there, check again just to be double sure.. next, install the head into the base fairly tight. Screw it in till it stop and give it just a bit of an extra snug to make sure there's pressure against the o-ring. do the same when you put the base back on the tank. maybe try putting a new head in it if you haven't already.. if all this doesn't fix it, you may just have to take it to a local store of even meet up with another vaper that may be able to help you out..
Sorted!!
I took it apart again, cleaned it, dried it, assembled it and made sure every o ring was in place (which it was). Then I reassembled it, put some juice in and it still gurgled. Then...I tried another head...no gurgling at all!!
I hadn't done this yet because I kind of refused to believe that the head could be causing this - I had checked it against the spare already and it appears exactly the same. I still can't work out how one head is defective but o well, problem solved!
I now have 4 tanks working perfectly each with different flavours mmmmmm
Thanks for your help Chris
I took it apart again, cleaned it, dried it, assembled it and made sure every o ring was in place (which it was). Then I reassembled it, put some juice in and it still gurgled. Then...I tried another head...no gurgling at all!!
I hadn't done this yet because I kind of refused to believe that the head could be causing this - I had checked it against the spare already and it appears exactly the same. I still can't work out how one head is defective but o well, problem solved!
I now have 4 tanks working perfectly each with different flavours mmmmmm
Thanks for your help Chris
So glad I got 2 batteries to start with. The Joyetech ego-C 650 (Joyetech eGo-C 650 Battery [VE406] - £13.95 : Vape Escape) stopped working today!
It flashes when I plug it into the charger, but is completely dead when it's unplugged .
I sent Vape Escape an email, hopefully a quick turn around.
It flashes when I plug it into the charger, but is completely dead when it's unplugged .
I sent Vape Escape an email, hopefully a quick turn around.
Need some advice guys...
I'm mainly vaping using a Protank 2 mini with an Innokin Itaste and I keep burning coils.
I changed the first coil after a few days of vaping it and it was completely black. So I tried setting the wattage to as low as possible (6w), but another coil is burnt in one day, and it hasn't been used that much.
What am I doing wrong?
Think it's time to start building my own coils!
I'm mainly vaping using a Protank 2 mini with an Innokin Itaste and I keep burning coils.
I changed the first coil after a few days of vaping it and it was completely black. So I tried setting the wattage to as low as possible (6w), but another coil is burnt in one day, and it hasn't been used that much.
What am I doing wrong?
Think it's time to start building my own coils!
For some reason the protank creates a vaccum inside the tank if it's overtightened. Loosen it slowly while you tip the entire unit away from you, look for a bubble or two to rise to the top. That bubble is a sign it is wicking. The Tank itself generally will not leak even if it is slightly unscrewed to allow some air in. With the tank slightly unscrewed, prevent dry burns by periodically tipping it and looking for a bubble. Some have better luck using Evod heads in the ProTank.
Thanks Vapoor, I'll give that a go.
Since you're on my thread again... I need to order a couple other things, so am also looking at wire and wick in the same order.
For wire should I go for Kanthal or Ni-chrome? And silica or ekowool wicks?
What thicknesses of wick and wire do I want?
Thanks mate!
Since you're on my thread again...
I need to order a couple other things, so am also looking at wire and wick in the same order.For wire should I go for Kanthal or Ni-chrome? And silica or ekowool wicks?
What thicknesses of wick and wire do I want?
Thanks mate!
You're welcome. You'll need a digital Multi Tester to accurately test the ohms- very important.
Ekowool is better BUT you have to torch or boil it. Better than silica cuz it's braided and doesn't fall apart like silica wicks. Also wicks better cuz the center is hollow. For rebuilding protanks, you want .32 Kanthal you want to be able to keep your protank within the 1-3 ohm range, thicker wire will make this very difficult in such a small space.
Here's an excellent tutorial:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild.html
Ekowool is better BUT you have to torch or boil it. Better than silica cuz it's braided and doesn't fall apart like silica wicks. Also wicks better cuz the center is hollow. For rebuilding protanks, you want .32 Kanthal you want to be able to keep your protank within the 1-3 ohm range, thicker wire will make this very difficult in such a small space.
Here's an excellent tutorial:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild.html
Great, thank you.
I don't think I need a meter because the iTaste shows the resistance when a head is connected?
I don't think I need a meter because the iTaste shows the resistance when a head is connected?
found one!
Innokin VTR
not sure how big or small you wanna go, but this looks like a solid piece, and I know there are plenty people that either have this or similar mods.
Innokin VTR
not sure how big or small you wanna go, but this looks like a solid piece, and I know there are plenty people that either have this or similar mods.
I agree with madqatter. Sometimes these PVs are not the most accurate and you could damage the PV. Chances are down the road you'll have some sort of electric/ electronic issues with a battery, PV, clearo, carto, atty, etc....have seen so many threads here where the user is guessing at what the issue might be when a multi tester would identify the problem immediately. Look for sales- last yr bought 5 X $40.00 multi testers for $10 each= Christmas presents. Can also be used around the home. Although I use it all the time on my cars, stereo, PC, etc for vapers it a must have IMO.
There are a lot of opinions on here, but sometimes the simpler the better, because everyone does have their own opinions, get something cheap and simple but dependable. Then you can decide what it really is YOU are looking for in a PV. I don't think VV is necessary until you feel like it's something YOU need - and you know why you need it. Glass tanks give better flavor than metal or plastic, but once again, when you get a tank that isn't glass you might feel like it's right up your alley - or you may end up with LOTS of different tanks - and cheaper is better this early in the game.
The cheapest, most user friendly, and dependable vape set-up I have had is
the Ego psas thru battery :
ego passthrough battery (this you can vape while charging so it's super convenient)
paired with the Smok Aro tank:
Aro Tank
That's your whole set up. I can go a day and a half without a charge, the only leaks I get are due t shaky hands when refilling and it works, well!
Yeah, it has bumps and quirks, but this is a good starter set since you don't want to end up shelling out a ton BEFORE you figure out what you like and don't like - since everybody has different preferences. Just mho.
The cheapest, most user friendly, and dependable vape set-up I have had is
the Ego psas thru battery :
ego passthrough battery (this you can vape while charging so it's super convenient)
paired with the Smok Aro tank:
Aro Tank
That's your whole set up. I can go a day and a half without a charge, the only leaks I get are due t shaky hands when refilling and it works, well!
Yeah, it has bumps and quirks, but this is a good starter set since you don't want to end up shelling out a ton BEFORE you figure out what you like and don't like - since everybody has different preferences. Just mho.
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