I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong or was misguided in my vaping journey. Please help

[dice57]

Just the opposite. The higher the ohms the more current needs to,be passed in order to,find your sweet spot. The link below will guide you. Just stay in the green zone.

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png

given the same voltage setting the lower ohm coils will burn more watts. for example using ohms law, a 1.5 ohm coil fired a 5 volts will burn 16.666 watts, ewe nasty taste occurs, a 2.5 ohm coil fired at 5 volts burns 10 watts Just whip out ohms law and crank the numbers. With a variable voltage device the ohms used is generally not a problem just dial it up or down accordingly, until you get into sub ohms of less than 1.2, then the amp ratting of your switch come into play. below 1.2 ohms many protected devices won't fire because of the high wattage output of sub ohm coils is to great. Hope I confused you.

 

[MikeDG]

molson,

try watching this video: Kanger Protank Bottom Coil Rebuild HD Close Up - YouTube

It will save you money in the long run. It is basically the same because the newer Kanger tank lines use the same replacement coil heads, so process will be the same. I followed how this guy did on the video and bought the wire and wick from his eBay account. I have not spent any money on coils for almost 2 months!

 

[fabricator4]

If the above suggestions still don't work, you can leave the coil heads soaking in alcohol ( isoprpyl or vodka) overnight. Unfortunately, you do get a dud once in a while. Don't fret, you will get it

Isopropyl alcohol is not fit for human consumption. It's great for cleaning circuit boards and devices as long as it is 100% evaporated before you use it. (no smell or taste). I wouldn't put my wick into isopropyl alcohol. If you must use alcohol, then OP Vodka or Everclear should be used. (ie ethanol).

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

Isopropyl alcohol is not fit for human consumption. It's great for cleaning circuit boards and devices as long as it is 100% evaporated before you use it. (no smell or taste). I wouldn't put my wick into isopropyl alcohol. If you must use alcohol, then OP Vodka or Everclear should be used. (ie ethanol).

I am sure he just forgot to mention to rinse it off and let it dry before putting it back in the head.

 

[fabricator4]

Just the opposite. The higher the ohms the more current needs to,be passed in order to,find your sweet spot. The link below will guide you. Just stay in the green zone.

I think you mean you need a higher voltage.

Current is amps. (A lot of people are saying "current" when they really mean "volts")

 

[fabricator4]

I am sure he just forgot to mention to rinse it off and let it dry before putting it back in the head.

That's a pretty big "forget". The LD50 (probably lethal dose, mouse) of Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is 3.6gm/kg. While this is relatively large, and the supposedly safe dose of IPA for humans is about 2.5mg/kg per day (0.0000025% body weight), there are safer alternatives, such as ethanol. IPA metabolises to acetone in the liver.

I couldn't honestly recommend IPA for cleaning wicks when we're talking about harm reduction, not introducing another potential problem.

 

[Abbell]

Well looks like you have all kinds of good answers.. so here is what I will offer you.

Confidence

Yep, that simple. We sometimes get to be over technical. Everyone has a personal preference. It does not matter what you end up using, how you end up using it or if you tell us all to stick our heads in the sand. What matters is that you are not smoking.

An ecig device is a fairly simple concept. It can become exponentially complex, but that is just added layers. All you need to know is that you heat up a liquid that vaporizes and that gives you flavor and nicotine.

I broke apart one of my Kanger protanks for you so some of the complexity and fear can be reduced.

I took the bottom off and drained the liquid... yes liquid does darken in a tank. Some darken faster. If it gets to looking like slug you can add fresh or clean it out. I like to just add fresh. Matter of personal preference or what works best.



I removed the coil assembly



This is the cap that helps keep juice from getting into your air pathway. When you put it all back together don't pull it down fully. Let it sit up just a bit..maybe a milimeter. This way the tank will seal it down when you screw it all back together. Here is a pick with it almost removed.



Taking the shaft off the coil will require some strength or pliers ( just be careful not to hurt yourself). It is simply press fitted in place.

The actual coil is under a small piece of wick. This is called a flavor wick and its job it to help stuff the side holes where the juice flows in and to slow down speed of the juice to prevent juice from "popping" all the way up the tank into the drip tip. Sometimes these can be a reason a tank does not get the juice in fast enough. That is another debate... it is what it is.



And that my friend is what it looks like. The coil has one end going to the positive end of the battery connector and the other into the negative. While I don't recommend it, you could just take the coil out and attach it to a battery and it would heat up. The wick it just to bring juice to the coil. You could drip juice directly onto the coil for the same effect.. but that is not very efficient. Here is what this looks like heated up



In the end it is just like a light bulb... instead of visible light it gives off heat.

The variables that can come into play and that confuse people is all about how to light it up. Things like wire size, wire type, wire length, wick type, wick length, wick size... etc

Do not worry about it. Take your time and learn. Take the advice and see if you can get your device working. Eventually you can play with other ideas if you want to.

I wish you luck and welcome to our insane community of great people!

 

[Abbell]

That's a pretty big "forget". The LD50 (probably lethal dose, mouse) of Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) is 3.6gm/kg. While this is relatively large, and the supposedly safe dose of IPA for humans is about 2.5mg/kg per day (0.0000025% body weight), there are safer alternatives, such as ethanol. IPA metabolises to acetone in the liver.

I couldn't honestly recommend IPA for cleaning wicks when we're talking about harm reduction, not introducing another potential problem.

Just clean it with vodka.. one for you, one for me, one for you...

 

[Mrs. G]

Well looks like you have all kinds of good answers.. so here is what I will offer you.

Confidence

Yep, that simple. We sometimes get to be over technical. Everyone has a personal preference. It does not matter what you end up using, how you end up using it or if you tell us all to stick our heads in the sand. What matters is that you are not smoking.

An ecig device is a fairly simple concept. It can become exponentially complex, but that is just added layers. All you need to know is that you heat up a liquid that vaporizes and that gives you flavor and nicotine.

I broke apart one of my Kanger protanks for you so some of the complexity and fear can be reduced.

I took the bottom off and drained the liquid... yes liquid does darken in a tank. Some darken faster. If it gets to looking like slug you can add fresh or clean it out. I like to just add fresh. Matter of personal preference or what works best.

View attachment 253044

I removed the coil assembly

View attachment 253045

This is the cap that helps keep juice from getting into your air pathway. When you put it all back together don't pull it down fully. Let it sit up just a bit..maybe a milimeter. This way the tank will seal it down when you screw it all back together. Here is a pick with it almost removed.

View attachment 253048

Taking the shaft off the coil will require some strength or pliers ( just be careful not to hurt yourself). It is simply press fitted in place.

The actual coil is under a small piece of wick. This is called a flavor wick and its job it to help stuff the side holes where the juice flows in and to slow down speed of the juice to prevent juice from "popping" all the way up the tank into the drip tip. Sometimes these can be a reason a tank does not get the juice in fast enough. That is another debate... it is what it is.

View attachment 253049

And that my friend is what it looks like. The coil has one end going to the positive end of the battery connector and the other into the negative. While I don't recommend it, you could just take the coil out and attach it to a battery and it would heat up. The wick it just to bring juice to the coil. You could drip juice directly onto the coil for the same effect.. but that is not very efficient. Here is what this looks like heated up

View attachment 253054

In the end it is just like a light bulb... instead of visible light it gives off heat.

The variables that can come into play and that confuse people is all about how to light it up. Things like wire size, wire type, wire length, wick type, wick length, wick size... etc

Do not worry about it. Take your time and learn. Take the advice and see if you can get your device working. Eventually you can play with other ideas if you want to.

I wish you luck and welcome to our insane community of great people!

Posts like this one were what made me join ECF. Incredible willingness to help even if it means taking the time to take apart and photograph a part. Awesome. I needed to see that too!

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