I think you'll like the rayon.
Indulgence Mt-Rta
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The 10' bag at Sally was cotton by same mfr as the rayon, but I found 12' for $4 on Ebay so I bought that instead of diving into 500' from Sally! At this point it makes more sense than having to listen to "What the eff are you going to do with all that rayon when you don't know if you even like it?" from my beautiful wife. The money spent is well worth it! LOL!I think you'll like the rayon.
I tried it that way he first time i wicked one, and twice after you got me straightened out on wicking the Advken Ωega. Every time it flooded out the bottom faster than I could pour it in the top
I don't have any magic tricks
Cut. Put in channel, ha ha ha.Yeah.
Works for my 3 good boy MTs, and for Satan 96.4% of the time.
Damn, I f'ed up and ordered the SS Mutank....oh well, it'll still look good on my Black and Silver SX....
On a side note the wife loves her Valentines Present, the Blue Sigelei 90w Plus kit with the Sigelei Ares tank....
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I have always wondered why the griffin can be wicked so high up on the juice channels and not leak a drop. The MT & Mutank seem to like the wicking to the bottom of the juice channels, plus some to spare? Both of the designs are very similar imo?
Yeah, they make both. You can pull your coils a bit fuller with it than cotton. Rayon shrinks when wet, not swells. It's harder to choke than cotton, too. Not everybody agrees, but I notice a taste on a brand new wick. It goes away after the first few dozen hits.
I do not know. And I wish I did. I have little doubt the asnwer lies in the air/vacuum system that feeds the wick, as balanced by the pressure differential between the chamber and the tank. It's an "influence" system, rather than brute force; like the difference between an impeller and a piston type pumps. However, it's been a while since I studied fluid dynamics. And, while I'd like to know, what I need to know is how to wick it so it doesn't leak or dry hit
You may not have messed up too bad, the paint on the black isn't the best. Around the parts where the o-rings go there is black spray over, and on the top fill cap too.
Still looks cool tho, haha.
I like my stainless MTs better than the black sheep of the family, but this may be because they are better behaved than #3.
Took the premade coil apart further to confirm my suspicion. The base and top cap are chrome plated brass, the sleeve appears to be SS, and when separated from the base had a funky smell, maybe machine oil, not entirely sure.
machine oils would make them taste bad. Seems a bit unlikely, tho. The brass would have to be clean before plating, and there'd be no reason to machine it after plating. What purpose oil? Are they press fit?
Gotcha, not sure what it is, but had a funky smell on the SS sleeve. Yeah, press fit together. I took the top cap off by just pulling up on the Mutank when it was assembled on a mod, then got the sleeve off after removing the coil by putting a precision screw driver diagonal through the wicking channels, and pulling it off.
I've gone this far, I think I may as well rewick it, might just be the cotton they are using.
I started the same way.Didn't want to be stuck with a bunch if i didn't like it,so got the same deal as you did,after a week of using it,i was standing in the check out line at Sally's with a 3 pound box in my hands haha.
Sound plan. Let us know how it works. It is just barely possible they might have used machine oil to make the press fit go together, but to me that would indicate a design or manufacturing flaw. They drew one of the parts too big to press in after plating, or the stamping die was poorly manufactured, or the designers thought the press fit part would remain unplated and that didn't happen or something like that. If they were getting a lot of rejects or crushed parts in the assembly operation, they might have decided to oil them to make it work until the problem could be analyzed and corrected. Press fit is supposed to do exactly that. BTW, try washing the disassembled pieces before you re-wick. Maybe that'll help.
Alright gang. I do believe it WAS the o-ring that was causing my infernal leaking! I switched it out for one from one of the pre-mades and followed what amounts to a combination of all of you folks' suggestions, and it is working perfectly now!
It's either luck, or that o-ring. I guess I'll know for sure when I re-wick. Which I might do tomorrow. And if/when I DO re-wick, I'll do my best to photo-document the process. But as of right now, I think swapping out that o-ring (or making sure the one that's already there is tight AND wide enough) should be a sticky at the top of this thread!
Seriously though, thank you all so much for the help and patience. Getting this thing working early this afternoon really put me in a great mood. I even worked up the nerve to talk to a pretty gal that was in the vape shop that I frequent. (hey, I'm a shy fella, but she had a TFV4 and was buying coils and I had a legit reason to ask her which ones she preferred because I'm trying to figure out if I just don't like ANY pre-made coils, or what!)
It's either luck, or that o-ring. I guess I'll know for sure when I re-wick. Which I might do tomorrow. And if/when I DO re-wick, I'll do my best to photo-document the process. But as of right now, I think swapping out that o-ring (or making sure the one that's already there is tight AND wide enough) should be a sticky at the top of this thread!
Seriously though, thank you all so much for the help and patience. Getting this thing working early this afternoon really put me in a great mood. I even worked up the nerve to talk to a pretty gal that was in the vape shop that I frequent. (hey, I'm a shy fella, but she had a TFV4 and was buying coils and I had a legit reason to ask her which ones she preferred because I'm trying to figure out if I just don't like ANY pre-made coils, or what!)
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