Indulgence Mt-Rta

[ej1024]

For peeps having leaking issues do the following...
Max ID IS 2.5 6 wraps
Close airflow
Put EJUICE
Close top cap halfway
Flip the tank upside down
Let the juice flow back to the top cap... Make sure you have paper cuz it will leak while upside down, wait till leaking is finish...
Then flip the tank while tightening the top cap
Wipe excess juice on the airflow
Open airflow
Blow on the airflow slots to remove excess juice
And you should be good to go....
KAYFUN RULE is very helpful for tanks with out juice control like all INDULGENCE Tanks...
Good luck...




Vape On[emoji100]

 

[suprtrkr]

Ok, Paul, here's #3. He is built the same as yours, with the high coil leg in the center, low leg to the negative post. See how (green arrow) the wick comes over the coil leg and then straight down into the channel before turning out the gate. Also see how (red arrow) I have a bit of a gap where the coil end exposes an opening in the air tower. This is probably why #3 weeps a bit.

 

[Mowgli]

I'll check it out, but I'm done I'll finish the little bit of juice left, but then I'm going back to my typical 65-70vg and under 100W.

I'm enjoying that my tank can do 200W, but I can't vape like this all the time I'll enjoy my last few minutes of glory though.

You need 12V

 

[haleysdadda]

Ok, Paul, here's #3. He is built the same as yours, with the high coil leg in the center, low leg to the negative post. See how (green arrow) the wick comes over the coil leg and then straight down into the channel before turning out the gate. Also see how (red arrow) I have a bit of a gap where the coil end exposes an opening in the air tower. This is probably why #3 weeps a bit.
View attachment 537062

Also Paul if you look at his wicks the fill the juice windows & actually stick out a little!

 

[haleysdadda]

Ok, Paul, here's #3. He is built the same as yours, with the high coil leg in the center, low leg to the negative post. See how (green arrow) the wick comes over the coil leg and then straight down into the channel before turning out the gate. Also see how (red arrow) I have a bit of a gap where the coil end exposes an opening in the air tower. This is probably why #3 weeps a bit.
View attachment 537062

What did you do draw that pic with a crayon BTW!LOL!

 

[suprtrkr]

What did you do draw that pic with a crayon BTW!LOL!

Yup

 

[suprtrkr]

OK, here we go. I wanted to try the vertical coils in the MT. I built a tool for a mandrel, using some 1/16" stainless rod I normally use to fill 2mm posts below the wire holes. I cut 3 pieces about 1.5" long and taped them together at one end, arranged side by side. I guestimated the area of the of the internal hole by multiplying the width and height of the mandrel tool; dividing by 3.14 and taking the square root to get the radius of a round mandrel of the same area. I selected the 26/32 Kanthal Clapton wire and put my guesstimated mandrel size in Steam Engine, and came up with a 4/5 wrap for .25Ω. Something was out in my figures as the assembly eventually came up at .37-.4ish, depending on when I measured it.
The coils on the posts:

Vertical shot, showing air alignment. The thing under my finger is the mandrel tool:

Channel dams installed:

I split the coil wick, using half behind the coil and between it and the air tower. It's a bit hard to see:

Side shot, inner and outer wicks applied, wet with juice and stuffed into the channels:

90 degree shot of the same:

Top shot of the same:

Barrel on, wicks trimmed:

And wicks tucked into the ports:

Didn't leak a drop, not even on first fill. She's vaping strong at 37.5W. Almost through rayon break-in. The air flow seems freer that it was, and I am getting good flavor and vapor.

 

[suprtrkr]

I just figured out what I did wrong on the mandrel estimate. Instead of taking the diameter of a circle of the same area, I should have taken the diameter of a circle of the same perimeter distance. I used 1.5, and I should have guessed a 2.9mm mandrel.

 

[Arthur]

Finally rewicked my mt. Actually twice. The first time with cotton, which was foul, and again with rayon. No leaks this time! Vaping bliss.... Mmm.... Bliss.

 

[kushpancake]

Bill, I've tried just that with both rayon and kgd. If I wick it to the point that I don't get leaks, then it doesn't wick. I'm going to tear it down again and try Roxy's suggestion of folding the wick into the channel and see how that goes. It's funny, the very first time I wicked the MT, it was wonderful, worked superbly, and didn't have any leaks except some normal condensation. I haven't been able to duplicate it again. I really love the MT for flavor and vapor production when it's working right, so I really don't want to give up on it.

I just started using rayon and its hands down the best over anything else i've tried!with rayon i make sure its a pretty tight fit in the coils and then i thin the tails out to maybe a little less than 1/4 of the amount that i started with. i will def post some pics for you soon. (this is how i do it for the griffin)

 

[pwheeler]

Guys, I may have just learned something. I have been getting disgusted with #3 for weeks. I have finally wicked him so he doesn't leak, but last night his resistance got all wonky, varying from .3ish to over 5.5Ω for no reason I could see. So, being intrigued with the vertical coil set I saw the other day, I broke #2 out of storage and put one of those builds in-- pics later-- and was going to break #3 down even before I promised Paul. But when I had the side by side, I observed the o-ring that seals the top end of the AFC ring on #2 is conspicuously bigger than the one on #3. #3 has always had a sloppy AFC ring compared to #1, and I never could figure out why.

Paul, how's the AFC ring on your MT? Tight and stays where you put it, or loosey goosey?
View attachment 537057



Rassinfrakin' Varmint! Why didn't I see that? Yes, dammit, the coils have to bridge the air hole. If they don't the wick will drip into it.

My AFC is nice and secure, not loose at all.

Ok, Paul, here's #3. He is built the same as yours, with the high coil leg in the center, low leg to the negative post. See how (green arrow) the wick comes over the coil leg and then straight down into the channel before turning out the gate. Also see how (red arrow) I have a bit of a gap where the coil end exposes an opening in the air tower. This is probably why #3 weeps a bit.
View attachment 537062

I tore it down again and the coils were a little offset. Moving the coils directly into the center of the air holes still won't span the holes completely. It looks like you have 5 wraps as I have. Are they spaced coils? Mine are twisted 28, I think and comes out to .22 ohms. Your pics look like you have an incredible amount of rayon in them. When I tried that, I got zero, and I mean zero wicking, even letting it sit overnight. It just wouldn't wick at all.

 

[suprtrkr]

My AFC is nice and secure, not loose at all.



I tore it down again and the coils were a little offset. Moving the coils directly into the center of the air holes still won't span the holes completely. It looks like you have 5 wraps as I have. Are they spaced coils? Mine are twisted 28, I think and comes out to .22 ohms. Your pics look like you have an incredible amount of rayon in them. When I tried that, I got zero, and I mean zero wicking, even letting it sit overnight. It just wouldn't wick at all.

You might want to rebuild, then, using bigger wire or a smaller mandrel to get more wraps. Yes, I do use a lot of rayon. I use 1/4 of the rope in the channels behind the air towers, and half a rope in each of the coils, (3-3.5mm coils), thinning the tails to half volume. Then I push the wicks down into the channels and wet with juice. (It is helpful to have remembered to put the lower tank seal on before wicking.) I leave the tails long and sticking out the ports beyond the barrel, which is then installed. Trim the wicks as close as I can get with a scissors, they stick out about 1.4" or so. Then I use my cotton hook to shove the wick back into the ports, but I don't push it completely flush, not by design, but because I can never get it all back in there without leaving a gap somewhere. So when tucked, they usually still stick out 1/16=1/8", see the bottom photo in the post about the vertical wicks above on this page. I did, once, cram too much wick in the ports. It'd vape about 35 watts, but nothing higher. That's when I started thinning the coil tails. If you are using a large diameter mandrel-- 3mm or bigger-- you might get enough wick to stop the leaks just in the coil wick. That appears to be how you wicked it last time. I still use channel dams and thin the tails. I dunno what to tell you, really, my friend. If it won't wick, that's too much; if it leaks, that's not enough You must've really packed it in, though. In my experience, it's not easy to choke rayon.

 

[pwheeler]

When I did the channel wicks, I actually used about half of what it looked like you used. I cut down the coil tails some, too. One thing, I did not leave my wick proud of the window but pushed it in until it stayed flush. And you're using huge coils. I'm using 2.5mm coils. What are you coiling with and what ohms do you read with such large coils?

 

[suprtrkr]

When I did the channel wicks, I actually used about half of what it looked like you used. I cut down the coil tails some, too. One thing, I did not leave my wick proud of the window but pushed it in until it stayed flush. And you're using huge coils. I'm using 2.5mm coils. What are you coiling with and what ohms do you read with such large coils?

Pushing it in flush may be (part of, anyway) your leaking problem. I find it very hard to do without leaving a gap in one or more of the corners. A gap in the corner guarantees a leak. I originally started using 3.5mm ID coils because when we started this, 250 pages ago, nobody could get enough wick into the damn thing to make it stop leaking. I picked my biggest mandrel, to gain the most wick, and had at it. I just never switched; why mess with something working? My favorite coil tool is the $3 step mandrel from MyFreedomSmokes, the Old Skool one:

However, I have some knock off cheap copy of the Kuro/UD/Coilmaster spin top widget and it has a 3.5mm mandrel too. I never did figure out how to use the silly thing, but that shorty mandrel sometimes comes in handy playing pushme-pullyou with the coils to get them in the right place. The long one I use to wind sometimes gets in the way of the atty. As for resistance, it depends on the wire and wraps, of course. Under normal circumstances, I let Steam Engine decide my mandrel size, unless I'm building an MT or something where I know I want a lot of wick, so I can get as close as possible to my desired resistance in any convenient number of wraps. Sometimes that half-millimeter will true it up to dead-on resistance (I almost always build duals, so I am actually looking for double what I want.) Regarding the MT, it's hard to say on the resistance because I don't usually use single slick wire coils. The first time I build #3-- he may be in retirement, #2 being so well mannered-- I used 28G stainless parallels, I think 5 or 6 wraps, and hit .11Ω. The last build in #3 was 26/32 Clapton wire, as shown in the photo above, a 5/4 wrap, just a bit short on covering the air holes, and originally came out about .35, which I was shooting for, but then the #3 curse took over and it started bouncing around for some reason I haven't figure out yet.

 

[pwheeler]

I have some 26 and 24g 316L and a bunch of 26g 304. With my 2.5mm coils, it shows a whole lot of wraps but may not fit. I might have to get out my coil master jig thingy as it's got a 3mm mandrel and try that. More wick and a longer coil to completely span the air hole. I'm going to take my time and see if I can finally come up with a build that's going to work! I'll be tickled sh**less if I can make it work to my satisfaction. Then, it's off to tackle that #@!# Griffin again!

 

[GccTxs67]

Nothing like getting your coffee and sitting down at your desk all ready to do some build for the upcoming week and jamming a stray piece of wire an inch into your bare foot!!!!

The hazards of building [emoji35]


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[freedogg]

I hate when that happens!!

 

[suprtrkr]

I have some 26 and 24g 316L and a bunch of 26g 304. With my 2.5mm coils, it shows a whole lot of wraps but may not fit. I might have to get out my coil master jig thingy as it's got a 3mm mandrel and try that. More wick and a longer coil to completely span the air hole. I'm going to take my time and see if I can finally come up with a build that's going to work! I'll be tickled sh**less if I can make it work to my satisfaction. Then, it's off to tackle that #@!# Griffin again!

I'm in your corner, buddy, and I'm gonna stick with you till we whip it. When you build, take pics at each step. We will figure this out

 

[suprtrkr]

Nothing like getting your coffee and sitting down at your desk all ready to do some build for the upcoming week and jamming a stray piece of wire an inch into your bare foot!!!!

The hazards of building [emoji35]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been there, done that; cussed so loud the Methodist church three blocks away spontaneously combusted, and even evil MT #3 started blushing. Don't do that.

 

[suprtrkr]

Hey, Paul, it just now occurs to me, when you got it jammed so it wouldn't wick, it may have been just at the ports when you stuffed it back in. It really isn't easy to get too much wick in it, especially with rayon. When I did it, I had about time and a half the wick I use now. And I was so happy it didn't leak-- first time ever!-- I vaped it like that, low watts and occasional dry hits and all, for a couple of weeks before it annoyed me enough to break it down and rebuild with a bit less wick