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Cotay

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I go back and forth. I've always seemed to prefer the voltage setting as opposed to watts but since I can't change volts on svd2, that might actually be exactly what was going on! [emoji106]to u for thinking of that! The harshness has gotten better now that I've had more time with the svd2 to learn it & change out coils & batteries. I'm using it now as my go to mod so wheather I've just gotten used to it or unknowingly fixed the issue, I'm another satisfied innokin customer [emoji16] [emoji106]

Glad you're liking the SVD 2.0. I'm very happy with mine except it eats 18650s faster than any other mod I have...or maybe it's just my perception since I've been chain vaping the past three weeks while on paternity leave. :)
 

ian91

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I have had my VTR for 13 months now. It has been sitting for the last 3 since I decided that I was only going to use Kayfuns. Finally decided to try cutting the ring off. Seems to have worked out pretty well. What do you think?
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awsum140

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Ya made me get up and dig out the micrometer, LOL!

The FDs I have are also 22mm. The base of a Fogger is ~21.9mm so the Fogger doesn't cover the FD completely, just almost. The problem is the air control ring on the Fogger is just a tad bigger, 22.3mm. I didn't "mike" the VTR I did but it only needs a little tweak to take the Fogger.
 

awsum140

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I used a burr and went very slowly and very carefully. I may work on it again next week, just for a laugh. I do have a spare, actually a dud, so if I go too far I have a spare body and can just swap out the electronics. I do use Foggers at 12.5 watts on my 134 so all it takes is getting the coils at the right resistance.
 

ian91

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I coil everything to 1.2ohms. Try to get everything around 4.2volts. That seems to be my sweet spot. Next I am going to put the fat daddy's in a couple of MVP2s that I have laying around. Try to get their height down to the same as the MVP20. Finally got my work bench set up in our garage. Moved in in Oct but wanted to wait until winter was over to get everything set up.
 

awsum140

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I work in the basement, but it's been too darn cold down there to fool with metal for any real "production". I've got to add a set of doors over the entrance to the Bilco door and cut the heat loss from that. I finally sprang for a drill press and cross slide vice, poor mans mill, but that won't help much reaming out the VTR rings.
 

Eric Auer

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I have had my VTR for 13 months now. It has been sitting for the last 3 since I decided that I was only going to use Kayfuns. Finally decided to try cutting the ring off. Seems to have worked out pretty well. What do you think?
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Looks great man.

Now if Innokin only would make exactly that with a TC 25w or 40W chip......

Eric
 

bobwho77

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Looks great man.

Now if Innokin only would make exactly that with a TC 25w or 40W chip......

Eric
How hard would it be to retro fit a DNA 40? I haven't looked for them through the usual suspects, but I know that on the Evolv site they're going for $60 a piece
 
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awsum140

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I don't think a retrofit would work without some very serious machining. The screen/electronics is quite a bit different as well as the display area being a completely different shape on a DNA. The DNA is a narrow rectangle while the VTR is a square. The way the body assembles with that display makes it kind of a really difficult rework.
 

lyspaere

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I could care less about higher wattage, but I sure would love it if they'd modify the VTR to take at least 22mm tanks.

I think if they would accommodate 22mm atties and double the wattage the VTR would be a LOT more attractive to people, now that everybody isn't so concerned with the weight anymore.


Goggling at world from my iPhone
 
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