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garyoa1

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Nice thread Paul! Very informative. I own MVP 2.0 and VV3.0. Love them both! As u know I also hv my SVD 2.0 on the way, but am still not completely sure as to what batteries are the best choice. I noticed some Panasonic's in one of the links u shared with me on my "Zmax, Evic, SVD" thread but it was never confirmed by the OP back in Nov. Wondering if any SVD 2.0 owners could chime in... best batteries? Also, flat top right? I will probably use the shorter tube moat of the time but will get batteries for both.

These work well for me...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CB8PGOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

ian91

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These are very good batteries as long as you do not want to sub-ohm on the SVD. If you plan to stay at 1ohm or higher, buy these. They are only good for something like 7 amps. 20watts @.5ohm is going to be 6.8amps or so. For sub-ohm, you should go with something like the Samsung 25R or the purple Efest. You could even get away with using the Panasonic 18650PF (10amps).
 

PaulBHC

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The manual sort of states that 6 amps is the max?
Technical Specifications:
Input Voltage: 3.2~4.3V
Output Voltage: 2.0~6.3V
Maximum Output Current: 6.0A
Maximum Output Wattage: 5.0-20W
Resistance of clearomizer: 0.5-3.0 ohm (0.5 Ohm minimum)
Battery: IMR high drain 18350/18650 (without protection,
maximum current > 5000mA.)
 

Nailz

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    I see some people saying the MVP V3 is over priced and underpowered, and I disagree, I ordered one from vaporbeast for $55 shipped, and I have more faith in the MVP V3 lasting over a lot of the $100+ box mods out there now, I got the MVP V3 for work, due to the long battery life and trusting that it can take some abuse and keep working. I did have a MVP V2 and my only complaint was the 510 pin on it, and they have addressed that with the floating pin on the new V3. I gave away the MVP V2 to a vapor at work, and over a year later, it looks bashed to hell, but he is still using it as his daily mod and working good.

    Been vaping 2 years and 30 watts is more than enough for me, the highest I vape is 25 watts, even on a dripper, I plan to use the kanger subtank mini on it at 22 watts, so will prefect for my work mod.

    Vaporbeast shipped my MVP V3 today, so should have it before end of the week :D
     

    shreduhsoreus

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    It kills me that most people view the iStick 50W as a small device. Its circumference is all of 2mm less than the MVP3 (45x23 vs 46x23). With a 4400mah battery in it, it will not exactly be light. I always read that the IPV Mini is considered a larger device but its total area is pretty well the same as the iStick 50W.

    I think it's because people don't bother to actually look stuff up themselves. They assume that because the 20 and 30 watt versions were small, that the 50W will somehow have twice the battery capacity and still be the same size :lol:

    It's just about the same size as the MVP 3, it's just 2cm shorter. Not exactly what I would call a "small device".
     

    Kat Eyez

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    AndriaD

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    OMG... we just got to enjoy (HAH!) an hour and a half power outage! :shock:

    The power's back on -- obviously! -- but while we were sitting in the dark, there was this terrific crash... a big damn limb fell off a pine tree right onto our house! Pulled the power line down; while the juice was off, my husband pulled the giant limb off the line, but the line is still hanging so low, if anyone drives on the left side of the street, they'll hit it, and maybe yank it all the way off our house. :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm: My husband pulled the truck out there, flashers on, to keep people off that side of the street, while we wait for the EMC to get here and fix it. But I'm sure they're quite busy tonight, so it might be a while. :facepalm: :facepalm: :facepalm:

    Andria
     

    JimmyDB

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    These are very good batteries as long as you do not want to sub-ohm on the SVD. If you plan to stay at 1ohm or higher, buy these. They are only good for something like 7 amps. 20watts @.5ohm is going to be 6.8amps or so. For sub-ohm, you should go with something like the Samsung 25R or the purple Efest. You could even get away with using the Panasonic 18650PF (10amps).

    The manual sort of states that 6 amps is the max?

    Well... if you consider that the 6A is the output max, and there are efficiency losses related to the circuitry required to regulate the output... and given the min input is 3.2V... I would figure the input amperage could be pretty close to 8A @ 3.2V max. While that is only 15% over spec, an edge case and only when the battery is really really low and the output settings are at the max... I would still suggest a battery in the 8A+ constant current range. I bet there are lots and lots of people who have been using under-rated batteries since the first day it came out though without any incident.

    Teacher always said show your work...

    20W divided by 3.2V input means at least 6.25A battery draw at 100% efficiency. Since this is an extreme case and efficiency isn't 100% (reality + regulated), let's call the efficiency 80%... 6.25*(1/.80) ~ 7.8125A input at 3.2V. Sanity check... 3.2*7.8125 -> 25W and 25W input * 80% efficiency -> 20W output... yup, sane.

    NOTE: Efficiency could be upwards of 95%, which would only be <7A input...

    I have seen the constant current max for these batteries listed from as low as 3.4A up to as high as 15A CCR. None of the Panasonic datasheets I looked at had a CCR listed, but the battery dropped output voltage pretty fast and low at 6.8A draw either way.

    Simply put, it's a fine battery with decent output capacity even under strain, but if you are drawing 6A+ from this battery... the output voltage will suffer.
     
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