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Btw, no pics of this BUT, if you remove all the bottom parts you can screw the dripper into it, meaning that with some sanding cutting etc, you can make a 18490 or even 18650 version using 2 ucanns 
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Here is the ucan with all parts removed
Here it is with a top cap on top, and a top cap on bottom
Now 2 ucans together
Sorry mate, but it won't work, you still need a 18.5-19mm ID and if you bore out the top section to acheive this the treads will be gone or at least wafer thin.
Current ID of the top section is 15.8mm, so to get to say 19mm you would need to remove 1.6 mm of wall thickness if you get my drift.
Just take a pair of pliers to it. Lefty loosey righty tighty. On another note, I used an O ring and a rubber gromment for a bottom spacer for the battery. I found that it worked fine but had a voltage draw when not fired. I used a plastic o ring as a spacer instead.
Earlier today I searched for "hybrid dripper mod", thinking, "I love dripping, I love mechs, why doesn't anyone make a hybrid dripper?" and I found this thread.
I immediately ordered one of these u-cans. It should be here this week.
This is GENIUS
I immediately ordered one of these u-cans. It should be here this week.
This is GENIUS
Here's my first iteration. I'm going to play with the switch, as it's very hard to press, especially with no room to grip on such a tiny hybrid.
For the + post, I used a section of brass rod, about 3/16" in diameter. I passed this through a random plastic sleeve I had in my "bits and pieces" box. It had a nice flange around the top already, which I cut down to a smaller diameter. This passed through the top cap, into battery tube and I trimmed it to extend just beyond where the battery WOULD rest, had there not been a positive post. Then I filled the inside area around the + post with epoxy to hold the post in place, and seal the battery compartment against juice leaks.
I drilled/tapped the top of the + post for a 4-40 screw. Then I drilled a small hole for the wire to go through to make it simpler to re-coil... I really prefer drilled + posts. The negative post is just a drilled/tapped 4-40 hole in the top cap. Simple, but effective.
The bottom of my drip tip is about 1mm away from the + post when everything is seated. I will probably end up trimming the drip tip so it absolutely CANNOT touch the post, but as it is now, I really doubt that would be possible, without WRENCHING down on the top cap and severely distorting the thick o-ring.
I drilled a 1.6mm air hole so it lines up perfectly when the top cap is threaded on snug, and have a reference point of where the hole should line up with the "Innokin U-Can" lettering around the lid, so I always know exactly where it belongs.
I've heard bad things about using brass in contact with juice, I'll do some more research before I really start vaping on this little guy, but I couldn't help but try a few quick toots. Even with a battery only reading 3.8V on the meter, and a used/cleaned coil I had laying around, this thing blows clouds, FAR better than I had hoped.
And I LOOOVE my mods small (I use 350 mech mods and small RDA's exclusively) and this one more than meets the criteria...
For the + post, I used a section of brass rod, about 3/16" in diameter. I passed this through a random plastic sleeve I had in my "bits and pieces" box. It had a nice flange around the top already, which I cut down to a smaller diameter. This passed through the top cap, into battery tube and I trimmed it to extend just beyond where the battery WOULD rest, had there not been a positive post. Then I filled the inside area around the + post with epoxy to hold the post in place, and seal the battery compartment against juice leaks.
I drilled/tapped the top of the + post for a 4-40 screw. Then I drilled a small hole for the wire to go through to make it simpler to re-coil... I really prefer drilled + posts. The negative post is just a drilled/tapped 4-40 hole in the top cap. Simple, but effective.
The bottom of my drip tip is about 1mm away from the + post when everything is seated. I will probably end up trimming the drip tip so it absolutely CANNOT touch the post, but as it is now, I really doubt that would be possible, without WRENCHING down on the top cap and severely distorting the thick o-ring.
I drilled a 1.6mm air hole so it lines up perfectly when the top cap is threaded on snug, and have a reference point of where the hole should line up with the "Innokin U-Can" lettering around the lid, so I always know exactly where it belongs.
I've heard bad things about using brass in contact with juice, I'll do some more research before I really start vaping on this little guy, but I couldn't help but try a few quick toots. Even with a battery only reading 3.8V on the meter, and a used/cleaned coil I had laying around, this thing blows clouds, FAR better than I had hoped.
And I LOOOVE my mods small (I use 350 mech mods and small RDA's exclusively) and this one more than meets the criteria...
First of all English is not my 1st. language so i might not know the right words for the pluming items i have used in this mod.
Love this U-can idea !! Thanks !!
Rust to buy one and started modding. I then came up with the idea to use the space between the battery and atomizer as a tank.
The bottom lid (between tank and battery) is a pluming rubber washer (would be nice with something thinner down the line). Centerpost M3 SS screw. Isolation and "distance-keeper" around the centerpost is made from the tip of at standard juice bottle. Finished of with a few mm of heatshrink where the pole go through the deck.
Now to make a little more room in the top of the battery holder, I gave the last 2 threads on the bottom cab a little metal glue (so it won't screw so fore up in the tube (se result 2nd pic below). The firing button is a coin that (Danish 1 Kr) with a whole through. It fitted close and was easy to bring down to size on the drillpress (a threaded rod through, bolt on both sides turn on the drillpress and bring a file to it / or clamp a file and use a handheld drill. I decided on a coin so that the button could be in the tube and make the mod pocket safe without a button lock).
Continue in next post (rand out of room for pictures)
Love this U-can idea !! Thanks !!
Rust to buy one and started modding. I then came up with the idea to use the space between the battery and atomizer as a tank.
The bottom lid (between tank and battery) is a pluming rubber washer (would be nice with something thinner down the line). Centerpost M3 SS screw. Isolation and "distance-keeper" around the centerpost is made from the tip of at standard juice bottle. Finished of with a few mm of heatshrink where the pole go through the deck.
Now to make a little more room in the top of the battery holder, I gave the last 2 threads on the bottom cab a little metal glue (so it won't screw so fore up in the tube (se result 2nd pic below). The firing button is a coin that (Danish 1 Kr) with a whole through. It fitted close and was easy to bring down to size on the drillpress (a threaded rod through, bolt on both sides turn on the drillpress and bring a file to it / or clamp a file and use a handheld drill. I decided on a coin so that the button could be in the tube and make the mod pocket safe without a button lock).
Continue in next post (rand out of room for pictures)
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