On mine, I have a pretty thick oring at the bottom because the head of the screw I'm using is quite large...in my case larger than the nipple of the battery plus.
I didn't know that putting a bat plus down was considered dangerous.
L
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On mine, I have a pretty thick oring at the bottom because the head of the screw I'm using is quite large...in my case larger than the nipple of the battery plus.
I didn't know that putting a bat plus down was considered dangerous.
L
The danger is that the outside shell of the battery is metal and connected to the negative portion of the battery, so with an upside down battery the tube carries the positive current. If the insulating heat shrink on the outside of the battery gets damaged and contacts the tube then you have a dead short situation.
Sorry, but what is a dead short situation and does it make a difference if the battery is protected or not? I really don't want to be tazed by my own mod, if you know what I'm saying...
Thanks
L
I'm not sure about protection on protected batteries, but I would think/hope so.
An extended dead short is probably the number one thing that causes this type of battery to vent, which is a nice way of saying creating a chemical fire inside the metal case of the battery as well as a tube mod. Best case is venting holes do their job (but things will still get hot and cause damage), worse case is the battery or mod doesn't allow the pressure to escape when venting and thing could get real ugly.
Here is a video I made for a similar upside down battery discussion (sorry to venting)
Nice demo bap. I did close to the same thing (accidentally).
After hearing a huge racket coming from my dryer, I discovered that I had mistakenly washed one of my Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries. The heat shrink was beat up but still in tact. The insulator around the positive end was disintegrated and there was some corrosion around the positive terminal.
I was about to throw it away but figured ..., may as well test it... So, I peeled off the heat shrink, cleaned up the corrosion and wiped it down w/ alcohol. All was good until I went to meter it and see if it was still holding a charge... My meter probe slipped and went straight into the lip where the neg body meets the positive cap.
Got the same result you did in your video... Only I wasn't expecting it... LOL
The good news... The battery still had a 4.2 volt charge, even after a full wash cycle. A quick wrap w/ some Kevlar tape and the damn thing works as well as it ever did. This was a few months ago and it's still in my 18650 rotation.
After hearing a huge racket coming from my dryer, I discovered that I had mistakenly washed one of my Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries. The heat shrink was beat up but still in tact. The insulator around the positive end was disintegrated and there was some corrosion around the positive terminal.
I was about to throw it away but figured ..., may as well test it... So, I peeled off the heat shrink, cleaned up the corrosion and wiped it down w/ alcohol. All was good until I went to meter it and see if it was still holding a charge... My meter probe slipped and went straight into the lip where the neg body meets the positive cap.
Got the same result you did in your video... Only I wasn't expecting it... LOL
The good news... The battery still had a 4.2 volt charge, even after a full wash cycle. A quick wrap w/ some Kevlar tape and the damn thing works as well as it ever did. This was a few months ago and it's still in my 18650 rotation.
Ok as promissed I have made another U-Can hybrid, and here are a few terrible pictures taken with my I-phone, that do not do it justice at all, this thing is super tiny and very purdy
Original U-Can/RSST hybrid was 112mm from base of uncompressed button to top of drip tip, new more compact build is 96mm.
Juice capacity is just over 3.1ml
Details of build will follow if there is any interest.
All my 18350 Hybridised mods vs the Zmax LoL
A finger was harmed in the making of this mod
And yes, the airhole is a little larger than I'd have liked, but I have a plan
You can spare yourself the time of taking and posting pics and description by just sending me the shorty. Super quick and easy that way.
Alright... 99% there. Just need to add air holes in the top cap and do a little clean up & polishing.
Decided to go with a "V-Twin" design that would allow both coils front & center placement in front of the air holes with out any fancy coil legs.
Here are a couple of pics I did for testing. I'll post more when completed the last few steps.
Decided to go with a "V-Twin" design that would allow both coils front & center placement in front of the air holes with out any fancy coil legs.
Here are a couple of pics I did for testing. I'll post more when completed the last few steps.
jasl90, i am very curious what you used to fabricate those posts... they look legit 
I used PCB standoffs from RadioShack. Cut the head off an M3 screw and and threaded the standoff on one end and the other into the drill chuck. Used a Dremel (w a carbon cutoff wheel) to remove the bulk of the material, then progressively finer sandpaper to fine tune the diameter an give it a little polish.
Kind of a pita honestly. Would have been nice to find some 4-40 or M3 sex nuts... Whole have made life a little easier.
Kind of a pita honestly. Would have been nice to find some 4-40 or M3 sex nuts... Whole have made life a little easier.
Not very informative I'm afraid. I've got everything potted in JB-Weld. The only thing exposed is a screw head that's used as the positive contact. Unfortunately, I got on a roll and didn't think about taking pics of the individual pieces & parts before I sealed it all up.
Here's what I ended up doing...
1) Drilled the hole for the neg post and attached the post using a screw. Nothing tricky.
2) Poured in a layer of JB-Weld, just thick enough to cover the neg Boston screw head.
3) Once the JBW had cured, I drilled out the holes for the pos posts... Holes were just wide enough to get the posts through.
4) used a slightly larger bit to drill out the steel deck to make sure there was total isolation between the deck and the posts.
5) Drilled 3 holes in a thick brass washer. Two for the dual pos posts and one for the the screw head pos contact.
6) Ground it down so that could sit flat on the 1st layer of JBW w/o touching the walls of the tube.
7) Once I had the pos posts ground down to the correct length, I attached them to the plate w brass screws. Also squirted in a little solder paste, top and bottom.
8) Used a soldering iron to reflow the solder paste, creating a VERY solid connection between the plate, screws and posts.
9) Ground the heads off the screws so that they'd be out of the way.
10) Tapped the 3rd hole to accept a 4/40 brass screw.
11) Attached a 4/40 nut and screw, to mask off the area and provide a handle for getting everything situated.
12) Potted the pos post assembly in a 2nd layer of JBW, filling it up to the top of the nut (but not covering it).
13) Once the 2nd layer of JBW was dry, I used an X-Acto knife to cut around the nut and backed off the screw enough to rock nut out of it's place.
14) Cut the screw down to about 3mm and reinserted it into the pos plate.
No was told else where not to dual coil on an 18350...are you of that thinking to?
Also, I received a new ucan the other day, and the design has changed a little
This is a pic of the underside of the dripper...it's now spring mounted and the needle springs out when you take the cover out...shouldn't be a problem, but interesting to see that they have changed the design.
Also, I received a new ucan the other day, and the design has changed a little
This is a pic of the underside of the dripper...it's now spring mounted and the needle springs out when you take the cover out...shouldn't be a problem, but interesting to see that they have changed the design.
There may be a little wisdoms there. 18350s can't handle the amp load of bigger batteries, so it may save someone the grief of trying to run super low ohm DC setup wrapped in 28 awg wire.
The coils I have pictured are 32 awg wire which are equivalent to a single coil wrapped in 28 awg in terms of power requirements. 18350s shouldn't have a problem with that. I built it so that I'd have the option to goof around with both single and dual coils configurations.
Looks interesting. Any chance you could put some more pics showing the disassembled pieces and parts?Also, I received a new ucan the other day, and the design has changed a little
This is a pic of the underside of the dripper...it's now spring mounted and the needle springs out when you take the cover out...shouldn't be a problem, but interesting to see that they have changed the design.
Thank you. Inside needs some work to clean it up a little. Will post more pics once I'm done
Here is both
Top cap
Inside
I went on innokin website and they say the v2 has a longer spring loaded tip for genesis type atties
L
Top cap
Inside
I went on innokin website and they say the v2 has a longer spring loaded tip for genesis type atties
L
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