Inside the Drunker Tank

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adeline

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Warning: Just got my new Drunker. I noticed the inside of the tank looked scratched when held up to the light. I looked closer, then blew into it. Some of them moved. Then I gently scraped around the inside tank walls with a toothpick. Sure enough, its not scratched. Its covered in tiny silica shards. Stuck to tank wall by electrostatic charge? Probably from the 4 wicks rubbing against the plastic when screwed and unscrewed. This scared me. Call me crazy, but I don't want silica shards in my body. I won't use this tank until I've cleaned it and rewicked with cotton. Or will tiny fragments of cotton be just as bad?? I dunno.....HELP!

I don't use silica for that reason.

Cotton, as long as you keep it wet, should be fine.
 

Ansah

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As most everyone probably knows, Surevapes has the little Vulcan grommets in stock again (39 cents now instead of 32), and I finally got a Drunker tank working with my own coil, instead of the disaster I ended up with on the first try.

I did a 4/5 wrap with 32ga kanthal, and res is 2.9Ω. Doesn't this seem high? But it doesn't matter, since I just go for around 8w power on the Provari (in this case 4.9v, which is 8.27w or something) and the vape is really good. I did use some silica I have in my box of stuff, but plan to try cotton yarn next time (now that I think I at least know how to coil and wick a Drunker), and I'll try to absorb and follow some of the advice for making cotton wick on this thread.

Thanks for all of the insight here everyone.
 

adeline

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As most everyone probably knows, Surevapes has the little Vulcan grommets in stock again (39 cents now instead of 32), and I finally got a Drunker tank working with my own coil, instead of the disaster I ended up with on the first try.

I did a 4/5 wrap with 32ga kanthal, and res is 2.9Ω. Doesn't this seem high? But it doesn't matter, since I just go for around 8w power on the Provari (in this case 4.9v, which is 8.27w or something) and the vape is really good. I did use some silica I have in my box of stuff, but plan to try cotton yarn next time (now that I think I at least know how to coil and wick a Drunker), and I'll try to absorb and follow some of the advice for making cotton wick on this thread.

Thanks for all of the insight here everyone.

Awesome! I'm glad you got it done!

The ohms are high because of the atty design. The wire continues down from your coil, and through the ceramic, until it hits your grommet. ALL of that wire figures into your resistance. That's why some of us are wrapping coil with NR wire, to reduce the final ohms, and keep the heat where it should be: at your coil and surrounded by wick.
 

weisner

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Warning: Just got my new Drunker. I noticed the inside of the tank looked scratched when held up to the light. I looked closer, then blew into it. Some of them moved. Then I gently scraped around the inside tank walls with a toothpick. Sure enough, its not scratched. Its covered in tiny silica shards. Stuck to tank wall by electrostatic charge? Probably from the 4 wicks rubbing against the plastic when screwed and unscrewed. This scared me. Call me crazy, but I don't want silica shards in my body. I won't use this tank until I've cleaned it and rewicked with cotton. Or will tiny fragments of cotton be just as bad?? I dunno.....HELP!

That is exactly how I felt about it.
 

weisner

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Yeah, sorry, my posts are all over this forum.

I'm using the silver beads on the Drunker and the Killer 705... With great results. It's just so easy.

Drunker will likely be my next rebuild and I WILL get pics this time!!

Heads up Adaline, I just got my Sterling Silver Beads as well as some 30 AWG Sterling Silver wire for making Near zero resistance legs for my coils. I may get around to doing that pictorial before you. (wink) The race is on. I'll likely post to the new thread I started when I have a result good or fail. I will still be interested to see what you create. I am hoping to get a resistance below 2.0 Ohms with 5 or more wraps. :2c:
 

adeline

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Heads up Adaline, I just got my Sterling Silver Beads as well as some 30 AWG Sterling Silver wire for making Near zero resistance legs for my coils. I may get around to doing that pictorial before you. (wink) The race is on. I'll likely post to the new thread I started when I have a result good or fail. I will still be interested to see what you create. I am hoping to get a resistance below 2.0 Ohms with 5 or more wraps. :2c:

Hehehe, yeah, I was planning on a rebuild session this weekend, but it's up in the air as to whether or not the Drunker makes it this time. Sorry I haven't had a chance to document it.. My coils seem to last a long time. :p

You will most likely get sub-2ohm using the NR wire.

I still plan on documenting a NR setup with the silver beads... Just as soon as I rebuild!! :D
 

MiamiMom63

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Yes, just make a loop and hold the two ends and spin it together. It cuts the resistance in half. For example, if your normal setup came out to 2.8 ohms, then it would come out 1.4 ohms with the twisted wire, and you need to add more wraps to get it higher.

There's some pictures of it in some of the threads but I didn't bookmark them. Several are using it for their ss setups, and I think there was a picture in the 'show us your working wick' thread. If you have any problems with it, please post back and I'll try to find you some pictures.

There are no dumb questions here, MiamaMom....no apology necessary lol. :vapor:

Thanks a lot, JD1. Gonna try it out this weekend. I actually have a friend coming over tomorrow night for me to show her how to put her pre-made coil in her drunker and will try making a coil for her to get the idea of it. She knows I'm still learning though. Lol. Have to get it done before we have too many drinks. Ha!
 

MiamiMom63

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Heads up Adaline, I just got my Sterling Silver Beads as well as some 30 AWG Sterling Silver wire for making Near zero resistance legs for my coils. I may get around to doing that pictorial before you. (wink) The race is on. I'll likely post to the new thread I started when I have a result good or fail. I will still be interested to see what you create. I am hoping to get a resistance below 2.0 Ohms with 5 or more wraps. :2c:

Yea, I want pics of these beads you all are talking about and extra legs? Hmm.. Not sure what all that's about. All I know is a few friends bought the drunker that are new Vapers and looking at me for direction and I'm still learning. Lol. Gonna start drunker lessons once I figure it all out.
 

seneca mike

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So I removed the stock wick and coil on my new drunker, then washed all those nasty silica shards away. Phew. Used Peaches n Cream 4-ply cotton yarn for wick. Wire is Kanthal 32 doubled and twisted then 4/3 turns to get a 1.3 ohm reading on my Vamo. Soaked for an hour then set it at 7.5 watts and it vapes pretty good... Alien Visions chocolate mint. Could use a little more vapor production but flavor and TH are good. Doesnt leak upside down... the cotton has swelled perfectly to block the holes enough for this medium thickness juice.
Next time I'll use 5/4 turns to get more heating area at the coil, and around 2.4 ohms probably. To increase the juice supply for the 5/4 wrap theres space enough for 2 extra strands ('plys') to the 4 on each wick ie. 6 ply wicks instead of 4 ply wicks. It won't be quite so easy to thread the 6 plys through the holes, but where theres a will theres a way. In case you are wondering, the doubled and twisted 32 guage Kanthal easily fits through the ceramic's little holes, and jams nicely under the rubber grommet and its pin (but don't try to twist break...use nailclippers to cut it). I'm all set....this Drunker is no better and no worse than the ViVi Nova in most ways, but as the beautiful lady says... it has the big advantage of not contaminating the fresh juice still in the tank which means better flavor on the second half AND you can pour it back in the bottle when you want to switch flavor without 'contaminating' your virgin stuff. If ya know what I mean.....

Ooopsee: forgot to mention...this drunker flows way too much air for my liking. I found 2 ways to reduce it. Way 1: Stick a toothpick in 1 of the holes and break it off (dont worry you can poke it right through to remove it if you need to). Way 2: off the battery, screw it real tight onto an ego/510 adapter ...then put it on the battery. Way 2 is my prefered method.;-)
 
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Adeline, sorry to bring the thread off-topic but, would you also recommend the NR wire for the IGO-L so the posts wont get the heat but only the coil.
Hehehe, yeah, I was planning on a rebuild session this weekend, but it's up in the air as to whether or not the Drunker makes it this time. Sorry I haven't had a chance to document it.. My coils seem to last a long time. :p

You will most likely get sub-2ohm using the NR wire.

I still plan on documenting a NR setup with the silver beads... Just as soon as I rebuild!! :D
 

mrelwood

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Sorry this got a bit long, but I just don't get it. I got an X6 tank that has a similiar design to the Drunker, and tried several silica and cotton setups and none of them could even remotely keep the wicking up with my vaping pace at 8W. Did I mess up the setup every time, are my DIY juices to blame or am I just spoiled? I always use NR legs, even with the Dream tank (BT804, Kayfun clone). I have the same wicking issue with the Dream tank (unless pulled veryvery hard) and even the Odysseus clone called Oddy.

On the X6 I tried precoiled Kanthal #32 and #31 at diameters 2mm, 2.5mm and 3mm, with cotton rounds and batting, with and without a top wick, several variations of loose and snug, all after an overnight soak... But none of the cotton setups even tried to keep up wicking for more than about four 3 second puffs. The best setup I got was with 6 1mm silicas (3 per hole), but even that had to be driven at 7 watts and letting it rest sideways or upside down after a few puffs.

I've been rebuilding atomizers for about a full year, and I have repeatable great success with a Kangeroid, Vapeonloid and Vivi Nova Mini. But the X6 (especially with cotton), Kayfun and Odysseus clones just aren't working for me. Watching the wet coil while firing the silica wick dries up in a second, and fills back up during the first second after I stop firing. Cotton takes a lot longer to fill back up No hot spots until the wick is totally dry. At home I vape 10mg/ml nic DIY 70% VG, but also tried my out-and-about 15mg/ml nic DIY 80% PG winter vape without a mentionable improvement.

Is it possible that I'm used to having so much VTF from my Spheroid-style setups that the others just aren't enough for me? At a local meet I was quite disappointed with the expensive genny style tanks running at 15+ watts, and especially the original Penelope.

Am I a spoiled brat?!
 

MiamiMom63

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Update for JD1 who asked me to report back. I got with my friend today and we both experimented trying to double twist the 34 gauge kanthal together into one wire and made one cotton roll wick with a feeder wick laying on top and.....drum roll please......SUCCESS! Lol. Hers read at 1.7 ohms and mine read at 2.4 ohms! It was the very first coil she ever made :) at first I showed her how to put the premade replaceable coil on that she had bought and it was reading a short. Then we tried a second pre made coil she had bought and it didn't work either. After that I told her she was gonna have to learn to make her own. Lol. So it looks like the premade coils are trash maybe? We both had fun and so excited to build the coil JD1 suggested :) Thanks so much!
 
Adeline, thank's for the reply, I am glad I will not need to fuse NR to the coil. I am very new to RBA's. I am now waiting anxiously for my mail, to receive 15' of 32 gauge Kanthal wire and also my first RBA dripper. The Drunker will definitely be my next RBA.
No I don't really use NR legs on drippers with posts, unless I want to set up the coil very far from the posts.
 

JD1

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......Am I a spoiled brat?!

Maybe, but sounds to me that you just know what you like and you're gaining on how to get it. I consider myself spoiled by my present equipment, but only because I prefer low voltage vaping with the coil fairly close to my mouth so that the vapor doesn't lose any heat.

I've watched several videos and the only thing I see with tons of vapor puff after puff after puff is the high wattage ss setups. I had my dud working well and I cranked it up to 15 watts just to see if I'd like it. Well, I did like it, and if I had run across a setup like that back when I first switched I probably would have gladly put up the hassle just to have it. But tastes change, and now I'm so used to what you get when dripping in a 2.2 ohm 510 atty or a ce2 that I've come to prefer that type of vape.

I currently use the smok redux, the drunker, and the dream 804. They're all wicked with cotton, and perform great at low wattage. But none of them will keep up with more than three or four puffs in a row without letting them rest a few seconds.
 
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tnt56

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Adeline you did it justice!!!!!!!!! Some call it a Cannon tank. But I want to give you a shout out for a great job of the post and pics. (and I think your fingernails look just fine). Some parts are cermic I believe. I know a buddy that had his tank crack. Not a juice problem but it's still just a small crack. The nice thing is that you can put a 510 drip tip on the mouthpiece of it and make it more comfortable. I kinda like that idea.
 
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