IPV4 preorder
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Adult Chinese males are not overly muscular and most are average in size , that really limits how fast and long he can travel across the ocean in his rowboat to deliver your package.
Throw in a hurricane (very common) , which usually will blow a small rowboat off course and your talking another week at least .
Is this the post you are referring to?
So download and install the msi and use the downloaded firmware to update?
First time doing this hence the questions.
Thanks.
I finally got mine to do the upgrade. I don't know exactly how I did it, but Microsoft Office had something to do with it.
(I think)
(I think)
YES, This software will install the drivers and allow you to install the update firmware file to your device.
HAHAHAHA glad you got it done! But noooo Office has nothing to do with it. lolI finally got mine to do the upgrade. I don't know exactly how I did it, but Microsoft Office had something to do with it.
(I think)
Well guys, i finally bought one lol got a black one at a local shop and did the 120w update and it's been working great. Im gonna pull the charge board in the next couple days to insulate it from shorting like in most peoples 4's.
It goes nice with my dna30, sig 150w, invader mini, and my soon to arrive Ipv3 li v2 lol
It goes nice with my dna30, sig 150w, invader mini, and my soon to arrive Ipv3 li v2 lol
I pulled the charge board in mine for obvious saftey concerns of it ever shorting out like the one in this photo
It was really easy to do just clipping three wires close to the solder and lifting the board out..I also used an eraser on the mirror strip while I had it apart to brighten up the display in this photo
Really liking my IPV4 now.. Its great!...[emoji41]
sent from my XT1080 via Tapatalk
Yea i removed mine over a week and a half ago lol its been treating me great. My screen cover is clear however, i must have the 2nd revision.
the board had zero insulation so it was a ticking time bomb, titanium mode at 120j works awesome too
the board had zero insulation so it was a ticking time bomb, titanium mode at 120j works awesome too
Anyone having issues with the IPV4 with .5mm titanium wire ?? Im useing the twisted messes rda, at 495 degrees, duel coil 6 wraps .18 ohms.( but it will fluctuate) It worked great for about 30-40 mins then started reading "no liquid dry coil", and I juiced it up I even over dripped let it sit for about 25-30 mins and now its working fine any one have any issues or know what's going on ?? Thanks in advance.
Anyone had experience of removing the 510 from the IPV4?
I have the first batch of IPV4, and recently it's developed a hard short. I am almost certain this was caused by a major juice leak out of the bottom of a Goblin Mini (which has airflow on the bottom, and so leaks straight down )
At first it wouldn't get a correct resistance reading at all with Lock Resistance, or it would show 0.001Ω - it also would show a resistance even with no atomizer screwed on. I cleaned it out thoroughly, left it to dry a couple of days, cleaned it again.
The symptom now is that I can get a resistance but it's always way too low, and always around the same value - eg 0.385Ω. I think it's therefore measuring the resistance of an internal short, not the atomizer at all. Oh, and when I just tested a Lock Resistance with no atomizer at all, it still always still show a resistance (usually 0.378Ω). So in fact I think the problems are identical to how they were day one, it hasn't improved at all with cleaning as I first thought/hoped.
If I try to to vape it naturally shows "SHORT" almost immediately.
I have repeated the cleaning many times, including pushing down the positive pin as far as it will go and then scrubbing all around it with an alcohol-soaked toothbrush, from underneath.
The problem is that the 510 surround seems to be formed from the case itself - it's not a separate 510 bolted to the case, but is part of the case itself. I can't see how to get to the spring in the 510, how to get the positive pin out of the rest of the 510, or indeed do anything at all to it other than cut the wires.
I have removed the balance board to make access easier (I have never once used it.) Maybe I need to take everything out of the case, although that will still leave the 510 in place. There must be a way of getting the components of the 510 out (they put it in, after all), but I can't work it out yet.
Any thoughts much appreciated!
I have the first batch of IPV4, and recently it's developed a hard short. I am almost certain this was caused by a major juice leak out of the bottom of a Goblin Mini (which has airflow on the bottom, and so leaks straight down
)At first it wouldn't get a correct resistance reading at all with Lock Resistance, or it would show 0.001Ω - it also would show a resistance even with no atomizer screwed on. I cleaned it out thoroughly, left it to dry a couple of days, cleaned it again.
The symptom now is that I can get a resistance but it's always way too low, and always around the same value - eg 0.385Ω. I think it's therefore measuring the resistance of an internal short, not the atomizer at all. Oh, and when I just tested a Lock Resistance with no atomizer at all, it still always still show a resistance (usually 0.378Ω). So in fact I think the problems are identical to how they were day one, it hasn't improved at all with cleaning as I first thought/hoped.
If I try to to vape it naturally shows "SHORT" almost immediately.
I have repeated the cleaning many times, including pushing down the positive pin as far as it will go and then scrubbing all around it with an alcohol-soaked toothbrush, from underneath.
The problem is that the 510 surround seems to be formed from the case itself - it's not a separate 510 bolted to the case, but is part of the case itself. I can't see how to get to the spring in the 510, how to get the positive pin out of the rest of the 510, or indeed do anything at all to it other than cut the wires.
I have removed the balance board to make access easier (I have never once used it.) Maybe I need to take everything out of the case, although that will still leave the 510 in place. There must be a way of getting the components of the 510 out (they put it in, after all), but I can't work it out yet.
Any thoughts much appreciated!
I have now unscrewed everything as it was very quick to do so. As I thought though, it doesn't really seem to help - besides making access a bit easier.
I have confirmed that the 510 wiring to the board seems solid and no sign of shorts there, so it must be within the 510 itself. I just can't see how I am meant to separate the positive pin from the rest of the 510.
I have confirmed that the 510 wiring to the board seems solid and no sign of shorts there, so it must be within the 510 itself. I just can't see how I am meant to separate the positive pin from the rest of the 510.
I haven't taken 1 apart but i just took my ipv4s an used an ohmmeter to measure the resistance from the positive pin to the threads (done on top side of the mod) with the batteries removed and it was 853 ohms.(did it a 2nd time and a 3rd time to verify and it measured open both times)maybe because i had just removed the batteries, dunnoI have now unscrewed everything as it was very quick to do so. As I thought though, it doesn't really seem to help - besides making access a bit easier.
I have confirmed that the 510 wiring to the board seems solid and no sign of shorts there, so it must be within the 510 itself. I just can't see how I am meant to separate the positive pin from the rest of the 510.
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Have you tried putting just a regular single coil kanthal build on a different atomizer on there to see what it reads?I have now unscrewed everything as it was very quick to do so. As I thought though, it doesn't really seem to help - besides making access a bit easier.
I have confirmed that the 510 wiring to the board seems solid and no sign of shorts there, so it must be within the 510 itself. I just can't see how I am meant to separate the positive pin from the rest of the 510.
Resistance fluctuates with heat and this is displayed in temp mode. It will use the base resistance that you "locked" in to make the needed adjustments to maintain temp, But you are seeing what the resistance is at the moment you press the fire button. Secondly, was it reading no liquid after you vaped it for a while and it started to get dry?? That is exactly how it is supposed to work.
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