Is there any reason to use Mech mod on a non-sub ohm atty?
- Thread starter VapinSweetZ
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Just for fashion truly. I use the Flip w/ a Kick 2 around 10W with a 1.1-1.3 Ohm atomizer. Just love the way some mechs look. You'll get a much more consistent vape with a vw mod. Though a Kick/Kick 2 does cover that base in a mech, as I said.
Apart from the supposedly longevity of a Mech what else is there?
Reliable (little or nothing to break), simplicity, versatile (modular), user serviceable, size.
It's definitely a plus that they can be "fashionable" and "kicked."
I know a ton of mech users who would never venture below 1Ω.
Battery drain is not the plague of inconvenience some would make it out to be. And considering an 18650 mech is about the same size as an 18350 regulated device, some points to be made about battery drain are moot. (2900mAh compared to 800mAh)
Mechanical mods have been popular for years, long before anybody tried sub ohm vaping.
They are much more durable than almost all wired devices and easy to maintain. Most of them can withstand multiple drops on concrete and the occasional rainstorm and keep on delivering power.
They are much more durable than almost all wired devices and easy to maintain. Most of them can withstand multiple drops on concrete and the occasional rainstorm and keep on delivering power.
For me, if I were not into higher power I would be using more expensive regulated mods. They are more expensive, but they're still way cheaper than smoking! Actually in the last few months the new high power regulated mods really have me thinking about switching, but I'm pretty well setup with a couple of good mechs for the time being.
I got the Vision Slip as a simple pocket size work day device. Not much better than an ego until they come up with higher mah 18350s. Handles a vivi nova better than an ego. Shorter than my VV3 or twist, smaller and lighter than my MVP.
I find the opposite to be true. With my mech mods (1 real, 5 clones), I find I constantly have to fiddle with tightening tubes, tightening fire buttons that come unscrewed a little bit (mainly because I want them lined up with no threads showing, but they sometimes won't fire it too loose), opening it up and elongating the battery pin so the battery doesn't rattle (especially when I change batteries - even to the same exact size/model), open it up again to adjust the center pin from the back side so it works on the tank I just put on it, adjusting the tank itself so it makes contact...really a pain in the ....
Most of my mech's have as parts: end button itself, end-cap, 1-3 battery tubes, adjustable center pin (from the backside), top cap...way more parts than my VV's. And don't even get me started on getting the friggin Kick 2 to work in some of these devices when I want to run them regulated...
With my VV mods (like my MVP or VV) it's a single part with nothing to come off it, come loose, and nothing to adjust/fine-tune on the device itself. I simply press the fire button and it works. Worst case (and only on my Kayfun's), and only sometimes, I have to take a fingernail and extend the screw on the bottom of the Kayfun to get a connection. YMMV.
But what am I using right now? A mechanical because it looks cool
Yes! There's nothing to break, no motherboards or screens to worry about, no repairs that you can't do yourself. Mine will almost certainly outlast me.
I find the opposite to be true. With my mech mods (1 real, 5 clones), I find I constantly have to fiddle with tightening tubes, tightening fire buttons that come unscrewed a little bit (mainly because I want them lined up with no threads showing, but they sometimes won't fire it too loose), opening it up and elongating the battery pin so the battery doesn't rattle (especially when I change batteries - even to the same exact size/model), open it up again to adjust the center pin from the back side so it works on the tank I just put on it, adjusting the tank itself so it makes contact...really a pain in the ....
Most of my mech's have as parts: end button itself, end-cap, 1-3 battery tubes, adjustable center pin (from the backside), top cap...way more parts than my VV's. And don't even get me started on getting the friggin Kick 2 to work in some of these devices when I want to run them regulated...
With my VV mods (like my MVP or VV) it's a single part with nothing to come off it, come loose, and nothing to adjust/fine-tune on the device itself. I simply press the fire button and it works. Worst case (and only on my Kayfun's), and only sometimes, I have to take a fingernail and extend the screw on the bottom of the Kayfun to get a connection. YMMV.
But what am I using right now? A mechanical because it looks cool
Those are not complaints - that is OCD
When it comes to our Mech's many of us are that way.
Something you can fiddle with(Mech) or something you can do little to nothing with(APV) All a matter of choice.
Many of us choose Both
Since purchasing a few nice working Mech Mods and Kicks my APVs are getting less and less usage.
As to straight Mech
1.4ohm Kayfun Lite on 18500 Sigelei #20 working like a charm and last for hours
This is one Mech you do NOT want to sub ohm. <horror stories>
this.
also fulfills an occasional desire to feel old school or caveman-ish with its bare bones simplicity.
I have both regulated mods and mechanical mods.
All I use now are the mechanical mods, except for my modified VTR which I can now use with a Kayfun Lite.
I have an Evic, a SID and a SVD, but the mechanicals give me a better vape when I switch the same tank from these regulated mods to mechanical mods. The vape just seems "fuller" on the mechanicals, something to do with the current being turned on/off vs straight DC. I know this makes no logical sense at all, but I can tell a difference.
I normally build my coils to around 1 to 1.3 ohms, except for my dripper at .6 ohms.
All I use now are the mechanical mods, except for my modified VTR which I can now use with a Kayfun Lite.
I have an Evic, a SID and a SVD, but the mechanicals give me a better vape when I switch the same tank from these regulated mods to mechanical mods. The vape just seems "fuller" on the mechanicals, something to do with the current being turned on/off vs straight DC. I know this makes no logical sense at all, but I can tell a difference.
I normally build my coils to around 1 to 1.3 ohms, except for my dripper at .6 ohms.
whenever i have my mech, someone will stop me and ask about e cigs in general (usually a smoker) while i'm at work on break.
people look at the guys with box mods and kinda think to themselves is that some kind of robotic juice box?
people look at the guys with box mods and kinda think to themselves is that some kind of robotic juice box?
I've always wondered why they don't make a VV device that can reach the power output of a mech mod. How convenient would it be if you can adjust the power settings on your mech mod. I'm no expert so I don't know of the safety issues, or why VV's can't perform just as good in sub ohm. I have this feeling, that some company will make this really advanced mod that everyone will buy. Right now, there is no clear-cut best mod for me.
I use mechanicals and never go below 1 ohm. The reason I do it? Because it works for me.
I personally love the hit of my KFL @1.5 on my mech, way better performance than on my MVP. The MVP is what I carry out and about though and maybe the circuitry causes it to change the hit characteristic compared to a mech.
To those that say mechs can be complicated, yes they can be. My Nemesis requires a lot of fiddling when changing things out but my Maraxus just needs to be screwed down. Total painless and brainless setup and I like it way more than my Nemesis since I don't have to fiddle with any goofy lockring.
To those that say mechs can be complicated, yes they can be. My Nemesis requires a lot of fiddling when changing things out but my Maraxus just needs to be screwed down. Total painless and brainless setup and I like it way more than my Nemesis since I don't have to fiddle with any goofy lockring.
I like the simplicity of the Mech mod. Screw in my RDA/RTA tighten the battery tube and vape. The smaller form factor is nice too. I build my RTAs at .9 to 1.3 OHM and run them on my mech mods. I have a few VV/VW mods but nothing nice like a DNA 30 that I will run a Nautilus or a Pro tank 2 on from time to time. I work in the construction field and the durability edge of the mech mod is a huge benefit to me. I do plan on getting DNA 30 device this year I like devices that give me the option to Sub Ohm and run higher ohm builds.
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