Ithaka official
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Want to clarify, is the new ithaka update part has a larger air tunner which lead to a looser draw compare to original ithaka?
I know im late to ask as the ithaka upgrade is no longer in stock at e-smoke.
Wish it'll be back in stock soon..
I know im late to ask as the ithaka upgrade is no longer in stock at e-smoke.
Wish it'll be back in stock soon..
new part has bigger hole as you said riz and tomorrow this new part will be available again from esmokeguru
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Thanks imeo.. Im a little carried away with my penelope v2, it vape so well and im loving it, and found the original ithaka is a bit on the tight side of a draw now.
I need some help.
My Ithaka has a short. I have no clue where is it.
Works great after a build, however after the first refill the atty reads 9.9.
this just started happening in the past few weeks, and it happening to EVERY BUILD! i have build this thing dozens of times, and nothing has changed, ready wireds, DC parallel with cotton yarn. But now, all of a sudden, it shorts as soon as i refill.
please help me figure this out. i am wasting juice, ready wires and time...
My Ithaka has a short. I have no clue where is it.
Works great after a build, however after the first refill the atty reads 9.9.
this just started happening in the past few weeks, and it happening to EVERY BUILD! i have build this thing dozens of times, and nothing has changed, ready wireds, DC parallel with cotton yarn. But now, all of a sudden, it shorts as soon as i refill.
please help me figure this out. i am wasting juice, ready wires and time...
What comes to mind is the following:
If it reads 9.9 ohms it doesn't sound like a short circuit but a false contact somewhere, maybe something is not tight enough, so when you refill it moves and becomes loose, producing a high resistance reading.
Check if the center post / top nut are tight enough and that the whole rebuildable part is tight against the base, to ensure a good contact of the positive wire that is pushed by the o-ring.
If you are using ir on a Just GG, ensure that the positive pin on Ithaka is making good contact with the positve pin of the Just GG, you can disconnect the Ithaka, push up the positive pin of Just GG and connect the Ithaka again.
Are the ready wires well soldered?
When you rebuild and take out the old wires do they break? specifically at the joining points?
It happens when you attempt to vape with unsufficiently tested and conceived, low-quality built/finished devices like Ithaka is
No offense, just kidding, i wish you solve the problem quickly. Ariel explain well.
Dismantling and cleaning to its smallest component the rebuildable 'heart' not only helps against these unsollicited de-centered post or - very rare - bad contact issues : the quality of the taste and vape performance reached by a healthy Ithaka , desserve this kind of maintenance regulary.
Are your wires from a new manufacturer, are they simply deep enough in the ceramic channels ?
Next time this happens can you post a close up picture of the rebuildable section top and bottom
thanks guys!
I cant figure out whats happening. ill take it apart, and it looks fine. the new nut fully secured. all wires in place, coils fine.
the wires remain intact if i remove, using stromys ready wires without issue.
if the issue is the contact, which is definitely possible, not sure how to fix. it worries me to put something with a 9.9 read on a mech and risk damage or injury.
ill check and make sure the wires are fully covered in the ceramic.
im so frustrated with this thing!!
I cant figure out whats happening. ill take it apart, and it looks fine. the new nut fully secured. all wires in place, coils fine.
the wires remain intact if i remove, using stromys ready wires without issue.
if the issue is the contact, which is definitely possible, not sure how to fix. it worries me to put something with a 9.9 read on a mech and risk damage or injury.
ill check and make sure the wires are fully covered in the ceramic.
im so frustrated with this thing!!
9,9 ohms will not hurt any mod levis. The resistance is so big that it will not even fire.
Please measure the resistance of Ithaka without any wire on it. Your meter must show a very huge resistance or nothing at all or maybe the number "1" on the screen
Please measure the resistance of Ithaka without any wire on it. Your meter must show a very huge resistance or nothing at all or maybe the number "1" on the screen
One problem I had when I first started to use Ithaka was that I wouldn't tighten the ceramic housing tightly enough so the juice control would unthread it. Also make sure that when you do a build (especially if you are using 2.5mm or smaller wick) that the wick is completely covering the wires because if the neg wire is making contact with the Mouthpiece then you have a short. Also after your build push down on the coils a bit so that they aren't sticking up far enough to make contact with the Mouthpiece (this problem was on my Penelope v1 but still worth a try. Good luck to you!
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Hopefully you get something from all of that I haven't been in the Ithaka trouble shooting stage for a while
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Does anyone know when CoV or e-smokeguru will get the Ithaka Drip Tip Mouthpieces in stock?
Is it easy to drip with it? I want to turn my Ithaka with the new rebuildable part into a dripper so I can test my DIY flavors a bit easier.
Is it easy to drip with it? I want to turn my Ithaka with the new rebuildable part into a dripper so I can test my DIY flavors a bit easier.
less than a week sub
Awesome! Thanks Imeo
I've never used an actual drip atty (I know I know!) so I don't really know details - does the mouthpiece have a larger hole so you can drip it easier onto the coil? Or is it literally the same mouthpiece, except to put your own drip tip on it?
Basically, I'm wondering if I should get that to turn my Ithaka (with new rebuildable part) in a dripper atty? Or can I still achieve the same thing just dripping into my current Ithaka mouthpiece? I just don't picture the liquid making it down the mouthpiece fast enough, but I could be wrong!
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