Ithaka official

[Darkreign]

The intentional gap could work, but only if the plane of the top of the male piece is exactly the same as the plane of the bottom of the female end (think parallel lines in a circle). That's where the seal would be, not in the threads. In order for steel threads to be liquid tight would mean that tolerances would have to be in the .00X range, and even then capillary action (same thing that allows our wicks to function) would leech liquid along the gap. If the tolerances were that tight in the threads, we would never be able to screw them together without a vice and a pipe wrench.

This could also explain why leaks dont appear right way. Capillary action could take days to creep through the length of the threads that are this fine. And if the threads are bottoming out in the female section, the o-rings aren't being compressed enough to complete the seal.

 

[yankeebobo]

MY concern is a very slight difference on the plane. I definitely see the concept of having the male meeting the female cap. But if there is even a slight chance of difference on a batch run, then there would be the difference. Tomorrow I have another inspection to make.
I have new 17s that measure 16s in bottom and top and SO far, no issues on the ithaka. But again, It would be a solid week or two before I would declare this problem solved. Personally, my oring shipment will be what starts the clock. I'll use the 17s that come in, and I'll measure those as well before installing.
As a side note, The orings were replaced, and the draw closed up like a clam. Related? I highly doubt it, but it is one helluva bit of timing I have to say.
I thought I was done tinkering here.

 

[Shaketuga]

I'm excited to see how this pans out.


Sent from: The Land of Tortuga!

 

[yankeebobo]

If this testing and measuring keeps up, I'll just write a damn thesis and seek my PhD.

 

[Aal_]

The intentional gap could work, but only if the plane of the top of the male piece is exactly the same as the plane of the bottom of the female end (think parallel lines in a circle). That's where the seal would be, not in the threads. In order for steel threads to be liquid tight would mean that tolerances would have to be in the .00X range, and even then capillary action (same thing that allows our wicks to function) would leech liquid along the gap. If the tolerances were that tight in the threads, we would never be able to screw them together without a vice and a pipe wrench.

This could also explain why leaks dont appear right way. Capillary action could take days to creep through the length of the threads that are this fine. And if the threads are bottoming out in the female section, the o-rings aren't being compressed enough to complete the seal.

I know it works in the UFS. I never had a leak in that area.

 

[LongDraw]

I was wondering has anyone ever used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the ithaka?

Wondering if you left a coil build on how did it affect the coil/wick, if the wick is silica?

If you take the coil build off and used a nontoxic cleaner, such as blitz gem and jewelery cleaner, would you want to take of the the plastic window and the orings or would it be ok to leave on?

If you don't use a cleaner would the plastic tank and orings be ok to leave on?

Figure a deep clean like that every now and then wouldn't be a bad idea. After each tank I rinse off with hot water, figured maybe inbetween builds using the ultrasonic.

 

[Darkreign]

Most ultrasonic's I have seen use some sort of detergent added (liquid or powder). I am not sure how effective they would be without it, but I am pretty sure I dont want to use it on my wicks and coils...

 

[yankeebobo]

I never leave the coil on for a sonic clean. The coil never lasts that long and if the coil is still good then I keep going.
You can leave the plastics on. The orings I remove. You could leave them but if you add heat, those orings soften. And then you have a cleaner I'd you use it.
At worst I take a drop of dawn or Palmolive, water, and go to town. That's it. A brush to anything with threads. Lay out to dry.

I just passed all my older TSs through yesterday in the sonic clean. I did not polish any of them after. (Partly because I wanted to retain the patina on my older brass - for now)

 

[LongDraw]

Thanks guys. Yeah wasn't to sure of using any kind of cleaner with the wick, just thought i'd double check. Good point on the orings, I will take those off and just clean by hand. Mainly I think I would to put in there are the brass adjustable pins from the ithakas and any mouthpieces, not often since I rinse after every tank.

Most ultrasonic's I have seen use some sort of detergent added (liquid or powder). I am not sure how effective they would be without it, but I am pretty sure I dont want to use it on my wicks and coils...

I never leave the coil on for a sonic clean. The coil never lasts that long and if the coil is still good then I keep going.
You can leave the plastics on. The orings I remove. You could leave them but if you add heat, those orings soften. And then you have a cleaner I'd you use it.
At worst I take a drop of dawn or Palmolive, water, and go to town. That's it. A brush to anything with threads. Lay out to dry.

I just passed all my older TSs through yesterday in the sonic clean. I did not polish any of them after. (Partly because I wanted to retain the patina on my older brass - for now)

 

[gtbb]

I recommend you do not clean the plastic tanks or ceramics in ultra sound cleaners. I have cracked tanks and if there is any flaw in a ceramic a descent cleaner can crack them as well. Just not worth trying to clean the coil imho.

 

[yankeebobo]

Exactly. The attys really only get the ultrasonic cleaner for me every few months. When I do a tear down, I usually rinse them and wipe the threads with a paper towel. (Or if I sell anything)

For recoils, I now turn the atty upside down and remove the bottom leaving the juice in the tank. The base and rebuildable come off easy and I clean what I have with a rinse. Key is to make sure that post is wide open. Nothing blocking it. Blow it out.

Of course I'm different because I have several attys and I rarely change juices in my tank attys. only drippers.

 

[LongDraw]

That makes sense, on the description of the ultrasonic they say to be careful with certain stones as well.

Yeah, just thinking other ways to do deep cleans at times. Will make sure to only put the stainless steel parts of any of my attys and such in the cleaner.

Thanks everybody.

I recommend you do not clean the plastic tanks or ceramics in ultra sound cleaners. I have cracked tanks and if there is any flaw in a ceramic a descent cleaner can crack them as well. Just not worth trying to clean the coil imho.

 

[yankeebobo]

Delrins I clean. Plastic no. I hand clean the plastic tanks. But. I also don't use plastic tanks. I replace with SS when given the chance.

 

[soulseek]

On the topic of cleaning, what's the best way to thoroughly clean your ceramic.
I recall someone cracking it after having torched it so I guess that's not advised.

 

[Darkreign]

I can only see torching exaggerating existing damage to ceramics. I make it a regular practice to torch my new ones if I am going to replace one. The key to it is you dont want it to go through thermal shock (drastic changes in temperature) so I heat mine slowly until white hot, then I let them air cool hanging on a wire (the same one I use to hold it while torching). NEVER quench in water!!!

 

[imeothanasis]

you would have a big leak without this gap Dan

I wondered about that myself. I would have though that gap would cause a leak. Fortunately, the only gap I have that leaks is the one in my memory... As my wife likes to point out!

Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk.

 

[yankeebobo]

Rinse and wipe for standard cleaning. Maybe a vodka bath if needed.
Dark has the point though. If you torch, do not out the hot ceramic in a cold stone plate. (Do not ask me how I know)

 

[MoDmAnDaN]

Rinse and wipe for standard cleaning. Maybe a vodka bath if needed.
Dark has the point though. If you torch, do not out the hot ceramic in a cold stone plate. (Do not ask me how I know)

Sounds like you have experience in this particular case?

Sent from my Note II using Tapatalk.

 

[villarino1k]

Quick question for my ithaka users.

Just set up my ithaka again and it's at .53 ohms. Now I'm used to setting up dual coils as an X and wanted to try something different. I noticed that even when I was around .8-1.1 it produced a lot more vapor when the coils crossed. This is the first time I tried it with them parallel to each other. Is it normal that even with a .53 dual coil, it produces much less vapor? Btw, I mostly use 50/50 mix with juice.

Am I doing something wrong? Also, when parallel to each other, should the coils be touching?

Any input would greatly be appreciated.

oh and btw, yes its wicking pretty well, no dry hits at all even when chain vaping so I know that isnt the problem. I guess the easiest way would be to just rebuild and find out but I'm too lazy for that right now

 

[yankeebobo]

Which top nut do you have inside the ceramic?
Squeeze the coils closer together to see if that helps.