Ithaka official

[Aal_]

Just great houm my friend.

When you first get Ithaca in your hands you dont know exactly what to do or what is the setup that will make you happy. But this setup is there and you just have to search for it. Ithaca gives you all the tools you need to do your vaping life wonderful

Imeo I think Ariel was right in something. When you have BF open and the slots in ceramic open, suction would cause the liquid to go from the small tank inside to the center post which causes gurgling. I am not saying my issues are from this, as i never tried both open at the same time, but it is something to consider if you are making a smaller top nut. Maybe it will become worse in this setup. BF will let juice go into small tank, suction will bring them up into the ceramic, and small nut will let the juice go into center. My issues are different I have a problem with getting wick thickness right for sure. I will let you know what will happen with my 2.5mm wick.

 

[imeothanasis]

The only way for liquid to travel is through center post aal. That means that the long nut I put there to prevend this, accepts easier small drops of burned liquid as it goes everywhere while it gets burned. Shorter nut cant accept liquid because its deep down to the ceramic.
Also, if a lot of liquid goes inside ceramic for some reason, the 2 holes of ceramic will send it inside the small tank of Ithaca and it will re-feed wicks. And suction cant affect the liquid inside the small tank of Ithaca because you cant suck from 2 holes together. Air passes from the center pin only.

Your issue comes from the thickness of the wick of course. Use this 2,5mm wick and then use a 2mm wick. One of this will satisfy you for sure

 

[Alireza355]

After many experiments I understand that we dont need a shorter upper center post nut guys.

The gurgling that sometimes occurs and to only some people, is a result of burned liquid as Ali said. While the liquid gets burned, very tiny drops of liquid goes all over the ceramic and 1 of them goes inside center post. Its not an overflooding, its just a tiny drop of liquid that can be removed easily by bumping Ithaca as I did on my video.

Aal, I had the same effect with 1,5mm wick at the end of tank. Channels of Ithaca require at least 2 mm of wick as we all know. I was just trying to make more coils. I saw a difference in the begining but finally the vape was the same. Maybe it was just me and not Ithaca.

Imeo, The chance of some liquid jumping and splashing all over the inside of ceramic and getting into the central air hole can be greatly reduced with shortening the top nut, as I have done it and the gurgling is gone. you dont need to spend time and money on making a shorter top nut, because people that have the gurgling issue can easily shorten their top nut with a grinder or sandpaper.

 

[imeothanasis]

Ali, thanks a lot for the suggestion but GG customers must have the best construction in their hands and that means that they cant have a "hand made" shorter nut, especially when they paid to have the best. Also only a few people can do that, including you, but the most people dont have the time or the tools or the appetite to do it. So I will make those small nuts and I will send them for free to all new customers. The older customers can have this nut by ordering it from my sellers. They have to pay only the shipping cost. I cant save them this shipping cost but at least they can have the service they deserve

 

[Lentulusbatiatus]

Great service Imeo, hopefully mine on the pre-order will come with the smaller nut even though I could do it myself easily, it is nice not to have to.

 

[Poppa D]

Imeo, is this new shorter nut of the same design as the original Ithaka nut?

 

[imeothanasis]

no poppa. Thats because you will not be able to adjust it in open or closed position because it will be shorter than the center post. It will be always in open position. But I am still testing it. Maybe I will not make it if I see that I dont have the results I like. Also we have 2 people here that made their pins shorter so its like having testers out there. I am sure they will post their results too as I will do.

Maybe the nut has to be longer than 3mm. I have already made one at 3mm and 5,5 mm and I will tell you what I found

 

[Idaholandho]

I agree completely with Alireza - smart man.
The nut can be shortened effortlessly with a grinder, dremel or sandpaper.
Imeo, we have always loved you because of your service to gg lovers but, for you to produce smaller nuts is too time consuming and expensive for such a non issue for most. I would assume that if one is able to effectivly use such a great device, one should be able to sand down a simple nut my friend. Thank you for everything.

You do enough for us and we thank you.

On another note, Its very nice to hear the kind words Perseas has for you.

Be Well, Chris

 

[imeothanasis]

Thank you very much Idaho my friend

Even if its not what we call "problem", I have to solve it for those people that dont like this noise. I am experimenting on different designs right now and not only on length. If its a complicated design I have to ask my customers for a small fee. I will let you know soon

 

[Mistsmok3]

Definitely best to order anything considered to be a wearable part. This includes o-rings, ceramic housing plastic nut, clear window, insulator plastic, and ceramics. And good luck hearing back from COV. Best to PM Justin on here instead.

Thanks for the suggestions. Added all the wearable parts and pulled the trigger! Now, the waiting-game begins...

 

[Icig]

Hey imeo,

Just watched your new video of the telescope mouth piece. Any time frame on when that mouth piece and the SS tank section will be available ( the one that replaces the plastic one )?


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[LongDraw]

I know there is a preorder for ithaka and parts right now, was wondering Imeo if these will be fairly readily available.

Kind of want to hold off getting extra of parts until a later time, and set it aside for things like the adjustable mouthpiece, metal ithaka window, maybe achilles, and prolly proteus.

So much and so little time

Also, wondered what others thought of using tobacco juices that have cherry or apple flavoring in them if it would be an issue with ithaka plastic window. Used my smoking cherries in it once without issue, kinda worried to again though in case it causes an issue.

 

[bfrie]

Any idea when the clouds of vapor orders are going out? I'm guessing like 2 months?

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[Idaholandho]

Imeo has stated 1-1.5ish months as the production was ramped up. You will have it before you know it. GL

 

[scs1]

Has anybody put the clear plastic window in to an ultrasonic cleaner using just water and a drop of washing up liquid? I just cleaned the entire Ithaka for around 8 minutes total (over an hour) with warm water and my window has gone translucent (not see-through anymore)
Also, the black seals around the window are now visible when screwed together. What have I done lol

 

[sgehrking]

So Upset! Just tried to clean and set up new coil on Ithaka. Noticed that mouth piece was not centered in tank, it has been a bit off but not this bad. I took the tank apart and found the treads of the clear window were cracked. That probable explains the leaking between engraved part and window. Need new window now!!! Lucky pre-order was still going on at COV. ordered some other spares too.

Imeo, when can we expect the metal tank part as I will be ordering that too!

Also, so glad ody parts work on ithaka as I now got ody tank on with Ithaka top caps!!!! Holds more juice too!

 

[alan_vapes_el_paso]

I seem to be doing something wrong, cuz only about 1 out of every 3 rebuilds leaves me w/no leaking/gurgling. This last one was simple, just a single 3.5" wick, juice control closed. As soon as I turn the mouthpiece to open, it starts flooding. If i hold the tank upside down, drop after drop of juice comes out. I thought that the reason I was getting some leaking before was because I didn't use pliers to tighten the center pin to the ceramic housing. But this time I did that, and still flooding.

The only other configuration I've tried is the X wick w/only one coil. This seems to be better for less flooding, but not always, and a friend just told me that using only one coil for this doesn't get hot enough. Is that true? What size wick am I supposed to be using for this configuration? I haven't gone dual wick dual coil yet cuz I pretty much stick to my ProVari.

Help is much appreciated..

 

[Monomach]

I am on the current pre-order, decided to go for as many of the "plastic" parts for spares as wallet would allow. If the new design nut is an improvement will that be inlcluded in the build ?

I am guessing that if you only want to extend the tank by 1 section, there is room enough on the standard mouthpiece ?

 

[RiverNut]

I seem to be doing something wrong, cuz only about 1 out of every 3 rebuilds leaves me w/no leaking/gurgling. This last one was simple, just a single 3.5" wick, juice control closed. As soon as I turn the mouthpiece to open, it starts flooding. If i hold the tank upside down, drop after drop of juice comes out. I thought that the reason I was getting some leaking before was because I didn't use pliers to tighten the center pin to the ceramic housing. But this time I did that, and still flooding.

The only other configuration I've tried is the X wick w/only one coil. This seems to be better for less flooding, but not always, and a friend just told me that using only one coil for this doesn't get hot enough. Is that true? What size wick am I supposed to be using for this configuration? I haven't gone dual wick dual coil yet cuz I pretty much stick to my ProVari.

Help is much appreciated..

Hi Alan,
If you only use Provari then stick with single coils. Try this;
2.5mm wick ( i think 1 strand is .5mm so if all you have is 3.5, remove 2 strands...someone correct me if I'm wrong here)
Always use 2 wicks whether you wrap your coil around both or not ( I recommend both)
either close or barely open basic feeding to one wick, not both
if you fill to the top of the large cap, invert Ithaka as you are screwing on the small cap to avoid flooding through basic feeding
If you're using a mechanical mod and want a warm vape with a single coil you'll need about 1 ohm of resistance.

let us know if that cures it

 

[imeothanasis]

Ithaca and its spares will come together in about 1 month Icig. As for the new mouthpiece, I will start making it exactly after I will ship Ithaca and I will need one month for it

Hey imeo,

Just watched your new video of the telescope mouth piece. Any time frame on when that mouth piece and the SS tank section will be available ( the one that replaces the plastic one )?


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2