Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

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TrollDragon

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I'm a newb and trying to understand this, But isn't that what TC is supposed to do? Fires up to your set temp and then hits Temp Protection and lowers your wattage to maintain that temp so the cotton does not burn?
Now I am wondering if you had the Ohm's locked in correctly (room temperature) prior to doing the Rayon wick burn? I read people trying to get higher temps by putting on a heated coil and then setting/locking the ohms.

Please NO offense here, I am trying to learn from you, before I go and try this! I bought the nickel Ccell coils and my first attempt at TC was horrible! 3 tank fulls of nasty and bland tasting vape! This last attempt in TC with the same coil was better, but still not great! So I am still trying to figure it out!

Also I noticed I have to hit the vape harder and longer to get the same result as in power mode, is this normal for TC?
I am just trying to learn before I go out and get both a RTA and a rda! Thank you for any input!
Hi MV!

No offense taken at all and yes that is what TC is supposed to do. I fought with a VTC Mini FW 1.10 for a month before I took it back to the B&M to exchange for a iPV D2. I had higher hopes for the Cuboid thinking that Joyetech might have fixed the TC problems from the Mini but they seemed to have carried them on through.

I really hope the Vape Forward gear works better, since they are using a Joyetech chip as well.

The problem with the TC function of the Cuboid is a weak vape and the device hitting TP almost immediately. I put a 28g 0.09 ohm coil on the Flash e-Vapor VS (quick to coil and test) and mounted it on the Cuboid. Locked in the ohms at 0.09 and hit fire, got a half second of vapor then the TP screen kicked in and power dropped to 1.5W. When power drops below a certain level there is just no vape at all. I watched the screen and the power moved between 1.5W, 5W, 8W then back up to 13W for a split second and little vapor production, then back down to 1.5W again. The whole time it stays below 13W it might as well be the same as taking your finger off the power button, you will notice the drop outs in power reflected in your vape quality. Now I put the same atty on the iPV D2 and it vapes fine. The iPV D2 does not have the TP screen, it will kill all power to the coil when the wick is dry and put up a No Liquid screen, which works perfectly by the way. Unfortunately the D2 has no SS support and the TC resistance range for Ti is very tiny (0.05 - 0.3 ohms) and that severely limits your coil building options.

The resistance was locked at all times, room temp coil, everything let cool etc... I've jumped through all those hoops in the VTC Mini thread. I even had some users that thought they were "In The Know" tell me that:

1. This was normal operation just turn up the Temp to 600F for better vape.
(Cotton is not going to burn there now is it...)
2. It was because of a Clone Atty.
(I should spend $200+ to get an Authentic Flash e-Vapor V3 landed to put on a $35 mod...)
3. Should be using 30g Ni200 for better results.
(That is like building a coil out of thread, I'd rather slit my throat...)
4. I just basically didn't know how to build or what I was doing...
(This must be the case as everything working the way it should on the iPV D2, doesn't count.)

The Rayon scorched black immediately at 420, 400 and 380 so I didn't test any further.

Like I stated earlier I'll keep this mod as I like the size and it will put out 150W with the VTC4's, I picked it up cheap enough, unlike the VTC Mini which was not worth keeping as a single battery non TC mod.

I don't do any coil heads of any kind, all of my tanks have been rebuildable since I picked up my first Kayfun, so I can't offer and help with the cCells.
 

Light Seeker

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The fact that you have to go in and set an incorrect TCR to get it to work properly proves that it doesn't work great or at all really. Each wire type's TCR is a constant the fact the inputting the correct TCR results in the function not working right means the chip doesn't work properly.
And exactly what is that constant? What is the correct TCR?

Go look it up, you'll see tcr values for ss316 anywhere from 87 to 92.

That is precisely why they have programmable tcr settings.

tapatyped
 

TrollDragon

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Just a thought, but what watts are u setting in TC? essentially your ramp-up time. I've set mine to 32.


tapatyped
I have it at 35W but I have tried 25W and it is still the same.

On another note:
I put 3.11 back on and the Smart function works quite well for power mode attys. Popped on my GEM and set it for 15W, then put on the Silverplay and set it for 40W. The Cuboid will set the power to the atty you put on when switching them. Reminds me of the old Dovpo dt-50 memory function which remembered the power level for the measured resistance setting.
 

MotorcityVapeman

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Thank you TrollDragon, been trying to figure out if it was just me?
Could be what I am getting in my vape, non performance! Not very happy, went back to the Kanthal coils, so I can get my nicotine today and flavor! :thumb: I have not upped my software, for me to get 200 watts is not important yet. Unless I go to a better tank like a Smok TFV4, so I am leaving it as a 150w. Keep us posted if you have any success please!
 

52anddone

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Well now, there you go Troll ^^^. Is it just bad QC from Joyetech that gives some folks problems ?? Also, It seems that I read, maybe over in the VTC mini thread, that resistances below say .2Ω or .3Ω would do what you are experiencing with TC. I'll try and find the thread & post so I can get back to you on that one.
 

BrentMydland

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And exactly what is that constant? What is the correct TCR?

Go look it up, you'll see tcr values for ss316 anywhere from 87 to 92.

That is precisely why they have programmable tcr settings.

tapatyped
The TCR of each particular wire is always the same. It doesn't vary. The reason TCR is an option is so you can use any sufficiently suitable wire instead of just the ones that come preprogrammed into the chip. Go look at ti, any of the nifes or any of the useable grades of ss's spec sheet. The TCR/TFC doesn't vary.

For instance grade 1 ti has a TCR of .0035. That number does not change. Its the same for all g1 ti. If you have to adjust it to something else it is not because the TCR is different. Its because the chip doesn't function correctly.

uploadfromtaptalk1458462716735.jpeg
 
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TrollDragon

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Well now, there you go Troll ^^^. Is it just bad QC from Joyetech that gives some folks problems ?? Also, It seems that I read, maybe over in the VTC mini thread, that resistances below say .2Ω or .3Ω would do what you are experiencing with TC. I'll try and find the thread & post so I can get back to you on that one.
That is what we thought with the VTC Mini's, bad QC, but I tried 3 different units with different batch numbers. I 'll hit the B&M on Monday and compare with the owners Cuboid to see if his is the same, also I'll pop the atty on my buddies VTC Mini.

I had also pondered back then about a higher resistance issue and wrapped a 30g 0.19 Ni200 coil last night, it wasn't 0.2 as I didn't have enough room. There are not many places you will fit a Ni200 coil that is higher than 0.1 with any decent gauge, 32g or 34g yes but impossible to work with. I put the atty on the Cuboid and everything measured out, locked in and vaped to immediate TP with a very weak vape using 30W/460F/0.19 ohms. I put the same attyy on the iPV D2 with 30J/460F/0.187 ohms locked in and the vape was perfect. Vaped the atty till the No Liquid screen came up on the D2. Pulled the top and the Rayon was bone white, fully juiced the wick up again and put it back on the Cuboid. First pull snaps and crackles like a good space coil should, then TP and weak vape.

You would think there would be a massive quantity of people out there who would report a non functional TC problem with the Joyetech mods. This is not the case as 98% of the owners run them in Power Mode, they tried this TC thing with a prebuilt coil that came with their tank, weren't very impressed or the store didn't have TC coils in stock at the time and they went back to Kanthal because it was just easier.

A TC vape is not the same as a Kanthal vape, and its not for everyone.
 

KenD

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Joytech chips suck at temp control. Iv never got my vtc mini to run titanium right so I haven't even tried on my cuboid yet. I gotta try stainless one of these days.

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They perform perfectly. In fact, I prefer tc on my Joyetech/Wismec mods to the tc on my DNA 200. Simplicity for the win.

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TrollDragon

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They perform perfectly. In fact, I prefer tc on my Joyetech/Wismec mods to the tc on my DNA 200. Simplicity for the win.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
Ha Ha Ha... Sarcasm at it's finest!

I have used a Lava Box on numerous occasions and with many devices. I would have one in a heartbeat if they were not over $200 around here.
 

t8kiteasy

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That is what we thought with the VTC Mini's, bad QC, but I tried 3 different units with different batch numbers. I 'll hit the B&M on Monday and compare with the owners Cuboid to see if his is the same, also I'll pop the atty on my buddies VTC Mini.

I had also pondered back then about a higher resistance issue and wrapped a 30g 0.19 Ni200 coil last night, it wasn't 0.2 as I didn't have enough room. There are not many places you will fit a Ni200 coil that is higher than 0.1 with any decent gauge, 32g or 34g yes but impossible to work with. I put the atty on the Cuboid and everything measured out, locked in and vaped to immediate TP with a very weak vape using 30W/460F/0.19 ohms. I put the same attyy on the iPV D2 with 30J/460F/0.187 ohms locked in and the vape was perfect. Vaped the atty till the No Liquid screen came up on the D2. Pulled the top and the Rayon was bone white, fully juiced the wick up again and put it back on the Cuboid. First pull snaps and crackles like a good space coil should, then TP and weak vape.

You would think there would be a massive quantity of people out there who would report a non functional TC problem with the Joyetech mods. This is not the case as 98% of the owners run them in Power Mode, they tried this TC thing with a prebuilt coil that came with their tank, weren't very impressed or the store didn't have TC coils in stock at the time and they went back to Kanthal because it was just easier.

A TC vape is not the same as a Kanthal vape, and its not for everyone.

If you are having problems with TC going to power mode so often you might want to check and see if you have a good tight connection with the atty and 510. I do mean screwed down as tight as it will go (do not damage threads I am not saying go crazy).Remember,it is a spring loaded 510 so check for a good connection.
 

TrollDragon

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If you are having problems with TC going to power mode so often you might want to check and see if you have a good tight connection with the atty and 510. I do mean screwed down as tight as it will go (do not damage threads I am not saying go crazy).Remember,it is a spring loaded 510 so check for a good connection.
No problems with the 510 connection or having the Cuboid going into power mode from TC.
The build measures 0.46 ohms on the Cuboid and 0.458 on the D2 which has not changed with multiple moving of the atty.
 
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KenD

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Ha Ha Ha... Sarcasm at it's finest!

I have used a Lava Box on numerous occasions and with many devices. I would have one in a heartbeat if they were not over $200 around here.
No sarcasm, that is actually my experience.

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TrollDragon

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When you are in TC mode on the Cuboid what are you setting wattage to and what are you setting the TC to??

For the Stainless build I am using:
Preset SS316
420F
35W
0.46 Detected and Locked
(26g SS316 7 wrap on 2.5mm)

The Ni200 build is
Preset Ni
420F
35W
0.19 Detected and Locked
(30g Ni200 10 wrap on 2.5mm)
 
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Tpat591

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For the Stainless build I am using:
Preset SS316
420F
35W
0.46 Detected and Locked
(26g SS316 7 wrap on 2.5mm)

The Ni200 build is
Preset Ni
420F
35W
0.19 Detected and Locked
(30g Ni200 10 wrap on 2.5mm)
Try the manually adjusted TCR setting? Lot of people wont use the ss316 preset because it was optimized for cubis. You now have those manual TCR presets to customize your mod to your wire.
 
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Light Seeker

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The TCR of each particular wire is always the same. It doesn't vary. The reason TCR is an option is so you can use any sufficiently suitable wire instead of just the ones that come preprogrammed into the chip. Go look at ti, any of the nifes or any of the useable grades of ss's spec sheet. The TCR/TFC doesn't vary.

For instance grade 1 ti has a TCR of .0035. That number does not change. Its the same for all g1 ti. If you have to adjust it to something else it is not because the TCR is different. Its because the chip doesn't function correctly.

TCR values you see on spec sheets are industry standards of resistance measured between 25C and 75C. This is well below the temps we vape at. Further, using a TCR value, a coefficient, assumes the resistance will be linear. However, most metals have a parabolic resistance to temperature when graphed.

Further, manafacturing methods & impurities in the metal can affect TCR outside of these industry standard measurement points. it's common for circuit designers to not only request the graphs from their suppliers, but to spot check resistance for critical components.

Besides unknown mfg impurities, we're subjecting our coils to a contaminated environment of juice, layed up against different wicking materials, using a TCR spec sheet value measured 100s of degrees lower than our temperatures, and never taking linear vs parabolic resistance changes into consideration.

And you believe the chip isn't handling TCR values right? Its a totally ill defined measurement to begin with, used for circuit design of less than 150F, not the 400-500F we subject it to.


tapatyped
 
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