Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

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52anddone

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it only took somewhere around 3-5 days to kick a 13/14 year - 2 pack/day habit.

Congratulations on you're success MeeGz :thumbs:. I started out with a Kanger EVOD2 on a Vision Spinner II myself and ran with that setup for about 2 months before I started stepping up to better equipment. I had used tobacco in one form or another for 52 years, and like you, I found it relatively painless to switch over to vaping. A word of Caution though, I like vaping so much (like many others here) that I find that if I don't watch myself, I could be spending MORE on vaping than I did on Tobacco ;). It becomes as much Hobby as it does Tobacco Cessation. Vaping has/will save or extend a lot of lives I am guessing, and is a He!! of a lot more fun to do. Again, Congratulations, and Vape On !! :thumbs:
 

kbeam418

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One thing you have to remember with series mod's you are only getting the actual battery time of a single 18650. So if you want lasting power I would suggest the efest 3000mah batts. They are also 30a batts and pack a punch.

Nope the watt hours go up. You are increasing battery life. The Wismec gets battery life than the cuboid because it will have more watt hours.
 

TrollDragon

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Currently I'm running sets of LG HE4s @20A. From what I understand this device calls for 25A batteries. However there doesn't seem to be a performance hit, the owner of a local vape shop said that when he used the crowntank he preferred the .5 coil and it was performing as it should. He did however recommend 30A batteries. Do I really need them? If it's performing well and my battery life is good why would I? Is there any real facts behind his suggestion or was it just a sales pitch?

Everyone who vapes should read Mooch's Blog here on ECF. You need to educate yourself on safe battery rating and the claims of 30A batteries and higher.
There are no 18650 batteries with a genuine rating over 30A! | E-Cigarette Forum

image-jpeg.535619


There are no true 30A/3000mAh batteries out there.
 
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kbeam418

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No you are not increasing battery life either. If they were in parallel then you would be doubling battery life(mah)in series you are not.
Edit: the only thing that doubles in series is the batteries voltage.

Watch Phil Busardo's DNA 200 review he explains watt hour, battery life does go up. If I use my escribe software and type 900 mah at 8.4 volts my watt hours is 7.54, if I use 11.1 volts my watt hours is 9.99. There's your' proof.
 

Light Seeker

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He did however recommend 30A batteries. Do I really need them? .

No. As you correctly figured, you're absolutely fine hitting 12A on a 20A battery. Remember, the HE4s are 20A continous discharge. The pulse discharge is assumed by some to be 30-35A, but this is not in the LG spec sheet. I also run HE4s and 25r's (another 20A) at similar amp draws & have no issues, and no worries.
You want a battery that is close to 50% of what you normally use. So if you are running at 12amps then I would get 25amp batteries.
??? Any tech sheets, test results, or other info to support this?

tapatyped
 

Light Seeker

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Lol it's not worth it, I'm not picky it's a $70 dollar device so little things don't bug me. I only bought it so I had a good beater mod for work.
Ouch. Musta bought it from a B&M. Don't wanna tell u what I paid .... It would bug you. :)

tapatyped
 
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52anddone

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Richu75

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One thing you have to remember with series mod's you are only getting the actual battery time of a single 18650. So if you want lasting power I would suggest the efest 3000mah batts. They are also 30a batts and pack a punch.

Never, ever, trust efest batteries.
Certainly not their ridiculous 3000 mAH 30 Amp ratings.

Please educate yourself on battery safety.
 

MeeGz

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Congratulations on you're success MeeGz :thumbs:. I started out with a Kanger EVOD2 on a Vision Spinner II myself and ran with that setup for about 2 months before I started stepping up to better equipment. I had used tobacco in one form or another for 52 years, and like you, I found it relatively painless to switch over to vaping. A word of Caution though, I like Vaping so much (like many others here) that I find that if I don't watch myself, I could be spending MORE on vaping than I did on Tobacco ;). It becomes as much Hobby as it does Tobacco Cessation. Vaping has/will save or extend a lot of lives I am guessing, and is a He!! of a lot more fun to do. Again, Congratulations, and Vape On !! :thumbs:

I probably am spending more. I used to make my own cigs. If we put aside the initial investment of an APV(actually 2 b/v I bought an ego c twist[I think... Still can't find it] with another Aspire tank), the KT SubVod kit and extra coils, the KT SubTank Plus with RBA, the JT Cuboid x2(see earlier post), the crown tank with extra coils and RBA and the Avocado tank.

I must then just account for the coil heads, Kanthal spools(x2), nickel spool, Cotton and all the juice! It may have gotten a bit out of hand but this is summarizing mid December until now. It's probably cost me a bit more that DIY but certainly less than buying them. Most definitely less than emphysema, COPD, lung cancer or the like. I am very grateful for what vaping has done for me. I only wish the same success for my fiancee. While it is true she smokes significantly less than I used to, even one a day is one too many. I just wish I could find where I stashed my ego style stuff! Maybe with limited airflow the SubVod will be just fine.

No. As you correctly figured, you're absolutely fine hitting 12A on a 20A battery. Remember, the HE4s are 20A continous discharge. The pulse discharge is assumed by some to be 30-35A, but this is not in the LG spec sheet. I also run HE4s and 25r's (another 20A) at similar amp draws & have no issues, and no worries.

??? Any tech sheets, test results, or other info to support this?

tapatyped

Thank you. I used to work with DC electronics as a hobby, MCUs and such, but it's been a few years. I seem to forget things faster than I learn them, probably my ADD. Anyhow, as I said I'm a noob, I never even thought the current problem through. I wonder why 25A batteries are recommended. Probably for tanks that are pulling upwards of 150w like the TFV4.

I am curious however, another nearby shop basically told me that higher wattage tanks are better. It came up while I was asking about crowntank coils and the guy had mentioned that "those things only go up to so and so Watts, the TFV4 goes much higher" (I am paraphrasing BTW). Wouldnt one want moderate wattage with high performance? His TFV4 didn't really do all that much more than my crown but it KILLED batteries and juice. Cloud chasing is one thing, something one likely doesn't pursue with a regulated mod and TFV4, but outside of that I don't really get the whole bigger is better argument here(more Watts). Oh and by the way this came from the shop owner.
 

MeeGz

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It is, at least at first, a very confusing club. I feel like the closest shop took advantage of me. I was still smoking and went there on a whim. I paid $50, before tax for an ego style battery (Biansi iMist 900MaH), soft case, charger and 15ml of their house ejuice! Less than a week later I purchased the KT SubVod for roughly same price. Of course no juice or charger was included but it did work with my cell phone charger. Obviously ~$50 was too much and it could be purchased online for much less, at least the other shop was honest with me. He had CE5 setups running @ 1100MaH for $12.99 with a charger. Of course it didn't come with the unnecessary soft case or the juice, juice which could have been added for about another $8.00 from this particular retailer. So minus the case I could have bought something, potentially better, for $20.00 before tax. Not $50.

This often makes me wonder if these CE5 devices are even necessary anymore. It almost seems like it's a big money maker for some shops that accommodate to smokers that are trying to quit. I do know that I will drive further to the second shop mentioned. Shop 1 makes their own ejuice and sell 15MLs in plastic bottles. The second shop sells the same for $2.50 less in glass bottles with droppers! Seriously?

I'm afraid that it seems more attractive to post on boards like this, read boards like this, watch YT, etc. It's hard for me to find a shop that I can trust. The gathered opinions of the internet don't usually lie!
 
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absoluttalent

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No matter what tank I use it starts great but after 15 minutes the ohms change like from .25 to .4 then .5 and sometimes it says atomizer short I guess the 510 on them is not good

Yes, the cuboid 510 is pretty crappy.
It isnt as deep as it should be, and I am not a fan of the square pin. Almost seems like if its slightly off center, short messages pop up more frequently. The oring also seems a bit shoddy.

If the ohms change (and sorry if this is something you already knew), and you are in TC mode, make sure you LOCK your resistance.


I am currently trying to swap out the 510 with a varitube 510. It is installed into that top plate, which is also a heatsink. I have it sitting in a UC cycle now, trying to break up the threading adhesive they used. Might even be just thermal putty. Once its done, i will snap a picture of the piece and all the 510 parts.
 

MeeGz

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Yes, the cuboid 510 is pretty crappy.
It isnt as deep as it should be, and I am not a fan of the square pin. Almost seems like if its slightly off center, short messages pop up more frequently. The oring also seems a bit shoddy.

If the ohms change (and sorry if this is something you already knew), and you are in TC mode, make sure you LOCK your resistance.


I am currently trying to swap out the 510 with a varitube 510. It is installed into that top plate, which is also a heatsink. I have it sitting in a UC cycle now, trying to break up the threading adhesive they used. Might even be just thermal putty. Once its done, i will snap a picture of the piece and all the 510 parts.

So you are modding your mod? I assume that was common before the market was flooded with decent devices. I used to play with arduinos as a hobby. From your post I assume that you are trying to replace the Cuboid's 510 threading? Sorry I'm a bit of a noob.

If you manage to do so will you post an instructable or a video?
 
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kbeam418

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Ouch. Musta bought it from a B&M. Don't wanna tell u what I paid .... It would bug you. :)

tapatyped

No it doesn't bug me one bit. ;) I do B&M stores for one I'm impatient, and two I like supporting local business. Plus if it breaks I drive 15 minutes and get a new device, with online you have to ship it back and than wait to get a new device. This device is well worth $70 if not more.
 
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