You should have them use 28 gauge. 28 gauge with 9 wraps comes out to 0.107 ohms, so 5 wraps should get you just under 0.6.
Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
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I like 420
Yep, about 380 - 420 is my range, 30 watts is enough to drive it splendidly. Although I'm currently at 37 watts only because I'm too lazy to switch it back, vapes just fine anyway.
I already see a problem with this...besides the pointless airflow driptip. Notice the wicking holes are high up within the tank, which means you won't get the full 5ml capacity. This is an issue with the subtank mini as well. The wicking should go down into the base. Why would FreeMax do this? The original Starre was perfectly built. SMH I'll stick with the Atlantis Ni coils in the OG Starre.Found this in another thread about Ni coils. Once this hits the market, I think my Subtanks hit the market. I have the current version (no Ni coils, bottom fill) and it has the best flavor and vapor production I have seen from any tank. Now they are adding the Ni coils and top filling. This should be the perfect tank for the VT.
Anyone unhappy with their Evic-VT, I'll gladly take it off your hands...white or orange preferred, as I already have black!
This is a long threads and I probably missed this discussion but why do they call it yellow when it is clearly orange? I don't mind because I could tell from the pics before I ordered but it just seems strange to call it a different color.
I like my SX Mini and the VaporShark... both different TC style. I had ordered a VT from a co-op but gave it away before paying after I found they were not supporting a warranty. $51 shipped. Now I'm on the fence about the 53.99 offer at eciggity. The Lemo 2 (3.8ml top fill) is excellent for TC
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sounds good....3ml not an issue to me hahhaaha...plan to get another tank, so either this or that. or wait for the black subtank mini hahahaha...
I'm not sure I follow because it reads like they both do the same thing.
Its not possible to hit over 20w without overheating the coil unless you do lung hits! The only way you can vape 40w with straight vw power is with a lung hit to keep the coil temp down from scorching. This is a vaping fact.
Lower the power to 20 or less. Or lung hit for over 20. It is absolutely not possible to hit at 40w with a tootlepuff. It will hit temp protect instantly. Or on a regular mod burn the crap out of the juice.
Please try it set at 15w and 400. You are not vaping in a way to utilize much more than 20w.
Kicking off and on is pulsing. Pwm is kicking the current on and off quickly. Maybe the evic pulses a little slower than the other.
I take it the yihi doesn't show the actual wattage.. You may not be comparing apples to apples. What does the temp do on the evic. Cause your talking about temp on the yihi not watts.
Yihi was maybe smart to not show the info and cause confusion.
At 50w the coil will be at temp almost the instant you hit the fire button. I vape vw 26g .9 ohm and I literally get a huge cloud in about 1 second of firing. One second no joke. This is with hard lung pulls otherwise it burns.
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28, ok note it. thanks. i have to give it a try again cos i got a lemo drop to build.
15W? when in Ni 0r Ti mood the W are preset to 30W and can increase from there but cannot decrease lower than 30W, am I rite?
Yeah 30 watt minimum in temp mode. It does seem like it may not be tootle puffer friendly in temp control. The lung hit draw seems to play a big role in maintaining temp properly.
@workman70 @USMCotaku @tchavei
First, I appreciate you guys' responses. Workman, I get it and yer' right; the eVic is not the better 'mouth to lung' device.
After reading your posts, I tested your eVic TC comments (that it will adjust temp both down and up) On a direct lung inhale, (must be a fairly firm hit) the eVic will turn itself back up as well as down. I made it work by blowing through the device and watching the TC display in a mirror.
The eVic's TC does work, just not as quickly/sensitively as the Yihi.
Honestly, I love the Mega Tank but I kinda think it is not the ideal match for the eVic chipset. My Mini works better on it @ .15 ohm, IMO. The eVic requires much more airflow to sense the temp changes.
Somehow, I had this preconceived notion that a watt is a watt and that at identical settings, the eVic and the M should perform identically. I also presumed that I could be vaping at 40-60w with a .2 ohm TC atty.
Neither of these things are true, at least not in TC mode.
What I've learned here is that even though the Yihi chipset has a much faster (and therefore more accurate) TC circuit, at some point it doesn't matter because you've reached the point of diminishing returns... To exaggerate for clarity, even if the Yihi ran at (the weirdo wet dream of) 1000 watts, the heat is still limited by the TC setting; it just hits the limit in .2 seconds instead of .3 seconds... and you can't feel that.
the Yihi will drive the Mega .2 Ni at 40 or 50w limited to sayy 480, BUT at high power like that, when limited, it is turning itself off & on so fast, the actual vape experience (the feeling) is really no different than it is at 30-35w with the same limit.
Also, it is not valid to compare a mod running in watts to a mod powered in Joules because watts has no algorithmic time component built into the chipset.
So, I have settled in at 33 watts and 480-490 on .2 ohm Ni heads with the eVic. It is a fantastic battery, but I don't pull hard enough in normal vaping to actuate the somewhat less 'time accurate' eVic TC at any power setting above that.
... my education continues.....
First, I appreciate you guys' responses. Workman, I get it and yer' right; the eVic is not the better 'mouth to lung' device.
After reading your posts, I tested your eVic TC comments (that it will adjust temp both down and up) On a direct lung inhale, (must be a fairly firm hit) the eVic will turn itself back up as well as down. I made it work by blowing through the device and watching the TC display in a mirror.
The eVic's TC does work, just not as quickly/sensitively as the Yihi.
Honestly, I love the Mega Tank but I kinda think it is not the ideal match for the eVic chipset. My Mini works better on it @ .15 ohm, IMO. The eVic requires much more airflow to sense the temp changes.
Somehow, I had this preconceived notion that a watt is a watt and that at identical settings, the eVic and the M should perform identically. I also presumed that I could be vaping at 40-60w with a .2 ohm TC atty.
Neither of these things are true, at least not in TC mode.
What I've learned here is that even though the Yihi chipset has a much faster (and therefore more accurate) TC circuit, at some point it doesn't matter because you've reached the point of diminishing returns... To exaggerate for clarity, even if the Yihi ran at (the weirdo wet dream of) 1000 watts, the heat is still limited by the TC setting; it just hits the limit in .2 seconds instead of .3 seconds... and you can't feel that.
the Yihi will drive the Mega .2 Ni at 40 or 50w limited to sayy 480, BUT at high power like that, when limited, it is turning itself off & on so fast, the actual vape experience (the feeling) is really no different than it is at 30-35w with the same limit.
Also, it is not valid to compare a mod running in watts to a mod powered in Joules because watts has no algorithmic time component built into the chipset.
So, I have settled in at 33 watts and 480-490 on .2 ohm Ni heads with the eVic. It is a fantastic battery, but I don't pull hard enough in normal vaping to actuate the somewhat less 'time accurate' eVic TC at any power setting above that.
... my education continues.....
Oh yeah sorry bout that, it may not be great for mouth hits in temp mode since to doesn't go below 30... I'm sure a temperature can be used that works and may be fine for some but others may like the pricey devices temp mode for tootling.
No tellin. Depends on what you are....vapin..I like 420 but in my vape its probably around 600.
Try this fer' chits & giggles....
Take 2 or 3 puffs as you normally would (on the eVic W/Mega @ .2) and let it rest for a minute.
Now touch the fire button and you'll see it thinks it is still at ~200 degrees, when it is really at or near room temp.
Take a short firm dry hit (not firing) and check again. Now your 'quick click' reading will be down around 130. Take another dry hit or 2 and now the eVic shows the correct real time display of 70-80 degrees.
I am increasingly persuaded that this "flaw" isn't a flaw at all, but rather the difference between mods that measure in watts or Joules.
An M Class w/ battery is ~$210. An eVic is a quarter of that... 55 bucks.
And the 5000 mah battery in the eVic absolutely feels like it has wayyy more vomp (current dump) than my 25R/VTR4 powered Yihi.
The thing is a dripper's wet dream.
Take 2 or 3 puffs as you normally would (on the eVic W/Mega @ .2) and let it rest for a minute.
Now touch the fire button and you'll see it thinks it is still at ~200 degrees, when it is really at or near room temp.
Take a short firm dry hit (not firing) and check again. Now your 'quick click' reading will be down around 130. Take another dry hit or 2 and now the eVic shows the correct real time display of 70-80 degrees.
I am increasingly persuaded that this "flaw" isn't a flaw at all, but rather the difference between mods that measure in watts or Joules.
An M Class w/ battery is ~$210. An eVic is a quarter of that... 55 bucks.
And the 5000 mah battery in the eVic absolutely feels like it has wayyy more vomp (current dump) than my 25R/VTR4 powered Yihi.
The thing is a dripper's wet dream.
Nice example you did..
People really don't know how hot the coil is after a minute with out a laser temperature reading.
As your test showed the coil was still holding quite a bit of heat in that small insulated chamber.
I vape at vw 40w, and I always finish my draws the last couple seconds with no power - to cool the coil of residual heat. Really helps reduce gunk added by burning unvaporized juice from residual heat.
If you hear sizzling after your hit you are still burning juice, and only burning it to the coil.
I'm definitely seeing much more power from this compared to the istick 50w. In vw mode i have to set my watts about 3-5w lower to match it seems. So its one powerful sob for sure.
People really don't know how hot the coil is after a minute with out a laser temperature reading.
As your test showed the coil was still holding quite a bit of heat in that small insulated chamber.
I vape at vw 40w, and I always finish my draws the last couple seconds with no power - to cool the coil of residual heat. Really helps reduce gunk added by burning unvaporized juice from residual heat.
If you hear sizzling after your hit you are still burning juice, and only burning it to the coil.
I'm definitely seeing much more power from this compared to the istick 50w. In vw mode i have to set my watts about 3-5w lower to match it seems. So its one powerful sob for sure.
I'm not defending the dna 40 and probably never will. Not only because of the chip but because of the damage beta testers did to Evolv's credibility and Evolv itself poorly dealing with the issues. What I'm saying is that you can't solely rely on temperature settings when swapping an atty between both devices. Some work perfectly (my mutation x for example) and others require temperature adjustment (my erlprinz).
My exact same experience. 240-250C is what I vape on the evic but I get the exact same vape with 230C on the dna 40. Which one is more accurate? I have no idea but the water test on the dna gives me 99-100C and the VT gives me between 108-112C with occasional jumps to 130C.
380F (193C) gives me tootle puf kinda vapor. Almost like a normal cigarette and I have to pull long and hard. I do vape 70% vg which has a much higher boiling point than 30% - 50%
Regards
Tony
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