Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

[BNEAT]

When the coil is at room temperature you can go into the menu and lock the ohms so that it knows what the true resistance is. If you don't lock it then it gets confused based on the temp. If you lock it then it won't jump and will maintain the right temp and wattage for your coil.

I'm on the fence about the tank. I prefer my subtanks but don't have the nickel coils for subtanks yet.

On the first day I tried locking it after it wondered all over the place, but vapor production was still hit or miss. I'm guessing it had a hot spot, or the 510 may have been causing issues. Whatever it was resolved itself and it's been stable the last two days

 

[Broken Wing]

Drawing on it keeps you out of TP (temperature protection.)
TC (temperature control) is the name of the process that the mod is doing.
Please excuse me for being overly picky. Mixing up acronyms can lead to confusion.
And yes I agree with you... Seems like the mod was doing what it should with no draw on the atty.

Technically, I was correct, as drawing on it prevents the process. . But I usually do say TP, because too many confuse the terms

Turned out workman & atroph were right... And I don't know if I'm more lost, or disappointed.
Compared to my M Class, the eVic chip is dramatically different...
Why does the Yihi TP work properly and the eVic TP ONLY goes down?

Mega Tank .2 ohm Ni atty head, at any wattage and any TP setting: Let's say 40W and 480 limit...
On the Yihi you hold down the fire button and the real time temperature displayed firstly, is accurate! It might start in the 100-150 degrees range and climb to the 480 limit and then it pulses the current. (480.. 470.. 480..470..480...etc)
I can't get a decent hit off the eVic unless I jack up the TP to 520-530, and it still shuts itself down within 1-2 seconds. (40...29..18..9..8 watts) It only goes down unless I make an exaggerated hard draw.

I put the same tank on my Yihi, and when it hits the limit, it MAINTAINS that temperature by kicking off & on the current. THAT is what I like. (Plus the Yihi doesn't always think the fairly cool atty is 200-275 degrees! WTH izzat?)

There is only one way I've found to make a hit last a few seconds: Turn down the power, and/or increase the TC limit. But then you have defeated the entire purpose of TC... plus, who wants to vape .2 ohms @ 30W?

I love the battery part but why does anybody like this eVic chip???
You guys (some of you) have more TC (devices) experience than I do; I have only used these 2.
I'm hoping for advice from someone who (ideally) also owns an M Class. I do not do direct lung inhales. (nor should that be necessary to 'cool the atty') Again, same tank/atty works great on the Yihi in TC mode.

If I didn't have the Yihi chip to compare it to, I would be completely driven away from TP mods by the eVic.
The eVic reads the real time temperature wayyyy too high resulting in the TC kicking in too early.

The 5000mah battery rocks but the eVic chip is a bit of a disappointment to me compared to the Yihi M
in the TC functionality. Then again... it's $55 (1/4th the Yihi $) and it... kinda works... it just works differently and requires different control temp and wattage to yield a similar vape.

 

[Broken Wing]

Has anybody been able to use the eVic consistently in TC mode above 40W and below 500 degrees?

 

[USMCotaku]

I haven't had a problem with it maintaining temp. Mine seems to do what you say your yihi does.... Ramps up, hits set temp (tp) then varies power to maintain that temp (tc). If you are firing the mod without drawing on it, of course the wattage will keep dropping, coil isn't being cooled. I've experimented with mtl and full lung hits.... Same temp both ways.
Haven't gone above 35 watts, ramp up is plenty fast for me there.
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.

 

[Joe A]

Turned out workman & atroph were right... And I don't know if I'm more lost, or disappointed.
Compared to my M Class, the eVic chip is dramatically different...
Why does the Yihi TP work properly and the eVic TP ONLY goes down?

Mega Tank .2 ohm Ni atty head, at any wattage and any TP setting: Let's say 40W and 480 limit...
On the Yihi you hold down the fire button and the real time temperature displayed firstly, is accurate! It might start in the 100-150 degrees range and climb to the 480 limit and then it pulses the current. (480.. 470.. 480..470..480...etc)
I can't get a decent hit off the eVic unless I jack up the TP to 520-530, and it still shuts itself down within 1-2 seconds. (40...29..18..9..8 watts) It only goes down unless I make an exaggerated hard draw.

I put the same tank on my Yihi, and when it hits the limit, it MAINTAINS that temperature by kicking off & on the current. THAT is what I like. (Plus the Yihi doesn't always think the fairly cool atty is 200-275 degrees! WTH izzat?)

There is only one way I've found to make a hit last a few seconds: Turn down the power, and/or increase the TC limit. But then you have defeated the entire purpose of TC... plus, who wants to vape .2 ohms @ 30W?

I love the battery part but why does anybody like this eVic chip???
You guys (some of you) have more TC (devices) experience than I do; I have only used these 2.
I'm hoping for advice from someone who (ideally) also owns an M Class. I do not do direct lung inhales. (nor should that be necessary to 'cool the atty') Again, same tank/atty works great on the Yihi in TC mode.

If I didn't have the Yihi chip to compare it to, I would be completely driven away from TP mods by the eVic.
The eVic reads the real time temperature wayyyy too high resulting in the TC kicking in too early.

The 5000mah battery rocks but the eVic chip is a bit of a disappointment to me compared to the Yihi M
in the TC functionality. Then again... it's $55 (1/4th the Yihi $) and it... kinda works... it just works differently and requires different control temp and wattage to yield a similar vape.

This is why I haven't pulled the trigger on this. I love my m class and everything about it. I want a secong TC for work and banging around, and don't feel like another 200 dollar mod is the best way to do it. The mixed reviews about how it works have me sitting on the fence.

 

[Broken Wing]

I'm betting the direct lung inhale makes a huge difference with the stock mega tank..
The eVic does seem to work better for me anyways, with a Kanger tank and a .15 atty.

 

[hashtag]

climb to the 480 limit and then it pulses the current. (480.. 470.. 480..470..480...etc)


, it MAINTAINS that temperature by kicking off & on the current

This is how my evic works. I have had no problem getting good pulls and maintaining temp. I don't have another TC device to compare to but for me it works how I would expect.

 

[becosemsaida]

This is a nice device..... but the stock coils are really bad. I rebuilded the NI coil and now it's a lot better. Maybe in the future there are going to be matching colours from others then joyetech for these devices (white, black and "yellow" aren't so hard to clone i think).

Untill now this device is a winner...... And yes i too have a hard time getting the resistence to check itself....

beco

 

[FreeJersey]

Found this in another thread about Ni coils. Once this hits the market, I think my Subtanks hit the market. I have the current version (no Ni coils, bottom fill) and it has the best flavor and vapor production I have seen from any tank. Now they are adding the Ni coils and top filling. This should be the perfect tank for the VT.

 

[becosemsaida]

Found this in another thread about Ni coils. Once this hits the market, I think my Subtanks hit the market. I have the current version (no Ni coils, bottom fill) and it has the best flavor and vapor production I have seen from any tank. Now they are adding the Ni coils and top filling. This should be the perfect tank for the VT.

If they come with matching colours.......... would be a nice combo....

 

[madrabbit]

i wish they have black color hahaha....btw how about this tank Sense HERAKLES?

last night i went to my local vape shop, ask them to build my subtank mini rba with Ni but fail cos they build it too low and VT cannot fire it. Mind I ask what G or Ni wire to use? last night they use 26g Ni with 5 wrap if i remember correctly, and VT read 0.03 i think, they use it in SX mini M clas, fire no problem.

 

[FreeJersey]

i wish they have black color hahaha....btw how about this tank Sense HERAKLES?

last night i went to my local vape shop, ask them to build my subtank mini rba with Ni but fail cos they build it too low and VT cannot fire it. Mind I ask what G or Ni wire to use? last night they use 26g Ni with 5 wrap if i remember correctly, and VT read 0.03 i think, they use it in SX mini M clas, fire no problem.

Herakles is great too, but it only holds 3ml. Other than that, I found the Herakles and Starre, to be about equal in flavor and vapor.

 

[workman70]

This is how my evic works. I have had no problem getting good pulls and maintaining temp. I don't have another TC device to compare to but for me it works how I would expect.

So far, what I'm noticing here is that those having the biggest problems with the Evic are new to TC/TP. I'm a relative newb as well, as I only have one other device that pretends to TP. Plus, those working with the Mega coils and some with the Ni OCC.

I don't think these devices are really built for MTL hitters. I think TP really needs the airflow. I get what one dude is saying about the first registered temperature being high and making it hard for MTL. I don't have experience with yihi or dna40 chips, so me comparing it to those is unfair.

But let's think about TP...where is the temp sensor in any of these devices? There isn't one. Anything that measures temperature has to have a sensor, so all any of these chips do is guesstimate through algorithms. Best they could do is take temp off the legs, which wouldn't match the coil. So, it's key to understand that nothing is perfect, yihi and dna40 have mixed reviews as well.

What I do know, is that I get even temped draws that is regulated by increasing and decreasing wattage with the help of air flow.

I'm not judging anyone...I just think folks need to take the time to understand who the device is for and what the key components to TC/TP are. The good news is that it also does VW, so it's not a total waste for those that can't TP on it.

 

[workman70]

Has anybody been able to use the eVic consistently in TC mode above 40W and below 500 degrees?

My question is this, whY do you need to overpower the device if you are hitting under 500*? 30w carries me all the way to 550+ with almost zero ramp time. All you are doing by having your wattage so high is getting it to TP faster. The wattage you set it to is basically your ramp time, but it also sets the threshold that it wants to fire at. You won't hit 40w trying to reach 500*...it's just temping out faster reducing the consistency of your hit,

 

[jefx]

But let's think about TP...where is the temp sensor in any of these devices? There isn't one. Anything that measures temperature has to have a sensor, so all any of these chips do is guesstimate through algorithms. Best they could do is take temp off the legs, which wouldn't match the coil. So, it's key to understand that nothing is perfect, yihi and dna40 have mixed reviews as well.

^This

It doesn't actually know the temp of the coil, it just uses the programmed algorithms in combination with the user's settings and coil resistance to approximate temp.

As far as wattage with temp, I use the lowest wattage available (30 watts). I tried it all the way up to 60, but I could easily notice the pulsing temps when hitting it like that. I could fell the temp heating and cooling as I lung hit it.

At 30 watts, it still ramps my coil to temp really quickly but the temp management pulsing becomes unnoticeable.

I'm theorizing that higher wattage results in longer *off* pulses during temp management, and lower wattage results in longer *on* pulses, which results in a more consistent vape for lung hitting.

 

[tchavei]

^This

It doesn't actually know the temp of the coil, it just uses the programmed algorithms in combination with the user's settings and coil resistance to approximate temp.

As far as wattage with temp, I use the lowest wattage available (30 watts). I tried it all the way up to 60, but I could easily notice the pulsing temps when hitting it like that. I could fell the temp heating and cooling as I lung hit it.

At 30 watts, it still ramps my coil to temp really quickly but the temp management pulsing becomes unnoticeable.

I'm theorizing that higher wattage results in longer *off* pulses during temp management, and lower wattage results in longer *on* pulses, which results in a more consistent vape for lung hitting.

You must be speaking of the smok device no?

"it doesn't actually know the temp"? What on this planet "does know?" nothing knows. Even a simple body thermometer chip doesn't know your body's temperature. It just reads the resistance of a sensor placed on the tip of the device.

What yihi, Evolv and joye did was using our resistance coil as a sensor. Nickel and titanium have known TCR so the chip reads the current resistance, subtracts the base resistance and looks up the TCR value in a internal table. For each value there is an associated temperature value.

Is it accurate? It is in a clean room under lab conditions. Maybe not that much in the wild but it isn't guess estimating. It calculates the temperature based on what it sees. If things are cloudy (resistance issues, wire, wicking, juice flow, air flow) then the chip calculates based on whatever it sees.

What I do know is that the VT (at least in Ti mode) is registering higher temperature values than what we're actually getting. At 100C, the chip is reading 108C-112C and jumps to 130C as soon as water flow is removed so my guess estimation is that the temperature reading is off by 10C to 30C which can be up to 80F

Seems a lot but explains how most can only get a decent vape at 500F whereas, on the dna, you start getting a decent vape at 420F.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[workman70]

I can get a very decent vape at 420 on the vt, I just prefer it warmer. Either way, I don't own a Dna40 and likely never will. Even if this is the "poor man's version", it suits me just fine and have no complaints, except that I only have one.

 

[becosemsaida]

If it's a "poor man's version" or not for us noobs on tc this is a cheap and good looking device and there is still some exploration available....

For settings i found (for now) that 30W and 240º- 250º C is the best adjustement. I tried several settings in W and ºC but i find that the lower W just give me a more consistent vape. When it reaches the set ºC it just backs down and keeps the ºC (+/-) stable. As far as i can tell the power adjusted is just the ramp-up time to get your coil on to a desired temp and it's not like we have it set for "5W with a triple coil in a dripper" ,that happens to some with kanthal builds, and wonder why it's not vaping.

Using it with these settings in the mega tank that came with it and the rebuilded coil: NI, 0,10Ohm, 30W and 240º-250ºC.

For now these are my settings as i learn and understand more about this tomorrow i may be in need for more power, who knows.....

P.S: I'm not a cloudchaser nor a sub-sub-sub-ohm builder, i use coils between 1Ohm (KF) and 0.5 (ST) between 20-30W...... Maybe that is what's influencing some ideas.

beco

 

[Bikenstein]

I like 420

 

[jefx]

You must be speaking of the smok device no?

Ummm.....no.

I'm talking about the device this thread is about. The eVic VT.

I'm sure the algorithms are different based on different devices and chipsets, so different devices will achieve temp control differently.

I read a post somewhere on here that a user was surprised that the eVic let him use his Ni coil in standard wattage mode, and at 60 watts, it resulted in a burnt hit.

I thank many new TC users are giving the device credit for being *smarter* than what it is. I think the assumption is that the device *knows* what type of coil you are using and *knows* what temp it's firing at.

In reality, it's all theoretical.