Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt

[tchavei]

Oh man. Why did he kept pushing on the button while disassembling? You can tell right away it's only a cap so it's actually the other way around. You want that button on the low side so it protrudes out as much as possible to give the board space to slide out.

I'm not even going to comment the fact that he didn't turn off the mod before trying to slide it out... That probably killed the thing

3x 1500 is 4500 mah.

On a very high quality pack, you might get extra 30 or 40 mah per cell but it's not honest to classify this as a 5000mah.

If they would have said "equivalent to 5000mah 18650 mod" then it would be different and not a plain lie. A lipo has a flatter discharge curve so you can use more mah out of it than from a couple of 18650 but it's 4500mah nevertheless. :/

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[AnsonJames]

Oh man. Why did he kept pushing on the button while disassembling? You can tell right away it's only a cap so it's actually the other way around. You want that button on the low side so it protrudes out as much as possible to give the board space to slide out.

I'm not even going to comment the fact that he didn't turn off the mod before trying to slide it out... That probably killed the thing

3x 1500 is 4500 mah.

On a very high quality pack, you might get extra 30 or 40 mah per cell but it's not honest to classify this as a 5000mah.

If they would have said "equivalent to 5000mah 18650 mod" then it would be different and not a plain lie. A lipo has a flatter discharge curve so you can use more mah out of it than from a couple of 18650 but it's 4500mah nevertheless. :/

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Measured battery capacity is 4868mah according top this video - at around the 12.30 mark;



Close enough for me.

 

[tchavei]

Measured battery capacity is 4868mah according top this video - at around the 12.30 mark;



Close enough for me.

Didn't see the video yet. Is it mah pushed in or pulled out?

Regards
Tony

Edit: saw the video. It's mah pushed in. Not very meaningful. You need to account error, loss by heat, resistance and battery acceptance. I would be very surprised if you got more than 4500 out of it.

My comments still stand.

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[aldenf]

Didn't see the video yet. Is it mah pushed in or pulled out?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Pushed, in a charge cycle...

 

[AnsonJames]

Don't know mate but DJLsb knows what he's talking about - this is the device he used to do the testing;

It's certainly a lot more scientific than Adam's video which I thought was incredibly, incredibly dumb.

I like the way he said that he loved the VT just before completely destroying it, asking for a replacement and then calling Joyetech liars and telling everyone not to buy one.

Makes me glad that Youtube has a block user function - what an idiotic "review".

 

[tchavei]

Pushed, in a charge cycle...

Don't know mate but DJLsb knows what he's talking about - this is the device he used to do the testing;View attachment 466106

I edited my above comment. It's not very meaningful. You can push more mah but doesn't mean the battery will actually accept it. A discharge test would be much more accurate.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[AnsonJames]

I edited my above comment. It's not very meaningful. You can push more mah but doesn't mean the battery will actually accept it. A discharge test would be much more accurate.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

I'm betting the capacity ends up being 5000mah or very close.
Joyetech have been around for a very long time as far as this business is concerned and I trust them enough to believe their measured specifications - and in the safety of their products.

 

[JeremyR]

They may be lying about the total capacity of the battery pack. They may not be. Three cells, wired in parallel; each cell may measure approximately 1500mAh but the pack, as a whole, may measure approximately 5000mAh. Li-Po batteries are perfectly safe for our use. Balanced charging is only required when the cells are wired in series.

Yes I would agree alden. There may actually be something to this that people don't understand and actually I've been singing the praises of multiple battery configurations for years. I have two blogs on the subject of stacking and getting much more than the two batteries mah added together. (Same actually goes wheather its stacked or series.)


Either way you stack it or run series. Two batteries together last considerably longer than two batteries run seperately alone. Three batteries together, that can probably make an even higher gain for sure.

One main reason is the amp load/work is split between the three batteries. Instead of 15 attacking one cell, its split between 3, so 5 amps hitting each cell. How much longer does one battery last at 5 amp load compared to at its maximum 15amp cont. load. A lot longer, a 3p does last longer than 3 seperate batteries by design.

The reason it doesn't last much longer than istick is because it spends so much time sampling during down time. I mean its a LOT of extra time clicking and buzzing in there.

Actuslly I should surprised it lasts as long as it does with all that extra intelligence.

 

[tchavei]

Yes I would agree alden. There may actually be something to this that people don't understand and actually I've been singing the praises of multiple battery configurations for years. I have two blogs on the subject of stacking and getting much more than the two batteries mah added together. (Same actually goes wheather its stacked or series.)


Either way you stack it or run series. Two batteries together last considerably longer than two batteries run seperately alone. Three batteries together, that can probably make an even higher gain for sure.

The reason is the amp load is split between the three batteries. Instead of 15 attacking one cell, its split between 3, so 5 amps hitting each cell. How much longer does one battery last at 5 amp load compared to at its maximum 15amp cont. load. A lot longer by design.

I have some old blogs on it from back when people said its was still dangerous to double up in a regulated mod.

But we aren't talking about lipos in series but parallel?

It's still a 3 x 1500 mah pack. It's nominal 4500mah. With a 10% tolerance from the supplier, you can't actually claim a defect unless you pull out less than 4050mah which is 20% less than the mod manufacturer States.

I'm not discussing here if it will give 4850, 4999 or 4600 mah. The cells, according to the video, spec at 1 500mah each. If the cells would give consistently over 1600 mah don't you think the battery supplier would mark them at least as 1600mah?

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[JeremyR]

Alone they are not higher than 1500 mah. But together is a different story. (Note the pack is labled 5000 mah.)

Its been determined previously in other threads that running either stacked or series will give the same boost in longevity. Just a slightly different discharge method to reach the same end gain.

Just to note this is the same argument I've been up against for eternity. They do last longer in practice. Not many have agreed with me, but in testing it does every time.

 

[aldenf]

Yes I would agree alden. There may actually be something to this that people don't understand and actually I've been singing the praises of multiple battery configurations for years. I have two blogs on the subject of stacking and getting much more than the two batteries mah added together. (Same actually goes wheather its stacked or series.)


Either way you stack it or run series. Two batteries together last considerably longer than two batteries run seperately alone. Three batteries together, that can probably make an even higher gain for sure.

One main reason is the amp load/work is split between the three batteries. Instead of 15 attacking one cell, its split between 3, so 5 amps hitting each cell. How much longer does one battery last at 5 amp load compared to at its maximum 15amp cont. load. A lot longer by design.

The reason it doesn't last much longer than istick is because it spends so much time sampling during down time. I mean its a lot of time clicking and buzzing in there.

That's exactly right, Jeremy. A standard discharge test is to attach a regulated load to a fully charged cell and measure the time it takes to drain to a pre-determined low voltage. That gives you amphours (Ah). By distributing the identical load across three cells in parallel, the pack will often take longer to discharge than 3x the individual cell result, ending up showing higher Ah (or mAh). So, while the individual cells may rate 1500 mAh, the pack, as a whole, may easily reach 5000mAh.

BU-904: How to Measure Capacity – Battery University

 

[JeremyR]

Much the info on that site (especially lipo and mulitple battery info) is misleading to some imo. It's also very outdate in some areas.

If you take one of those 1500 mah run it to cut off - record time x 3. Then take 3 in series at the same load and time it I guarantee it lasts longer than the sum of the 3 run separately.

The manufacturer probably tested the complete pack and the result was 5000 mah.

It's not just 3 1500mah stuck together. It is now a complete new battery pack worthy of its own runtime test.

 

[aldenf]

For those who are really into this, official battery capacity testing is usually performed to a specific "standard", specifying a specific load and low voltage cutoff, usually set forth by a professional industry organization; e.g. SAE, ISO, IEEE, etc. We're talking standards here, not exacts. This is somewhat similar to EPA MPG ratings. Some may get 38 MPG on their 34 mpg-rated vehicle, while others may see 31 mpg. It depends on how the vehicle is used/driven.

If we take a fully charged 2600mAh SONY VTC5 and apply a 2.6amp load, it may take 1 hour to reach the low voltage cutoff. If we take the same fully charged battery and apply a 1.3amp load, it may take more than 2 hours to reach the low voltage cutoff, thereby exhibiting a higher mAh capacity.

ETA: Just like an internal combustion engine, the harder you ask a battery to work (by supplying higher current), the less efficient its performance. This lower efficiency is normally exhibited through higher heat output. By spreading the identical electrical load over multiple cells, each cell is able to perform at a higher efficiency, thereby giving the entire battery pack a higher capacity. The sum truly is greater than its parts.

 

[AnsonJames]

Does anyone know if the CLR heads fit in the supplied Mega one?
If they do - are they any good or is this tank a bit of a dud?

 

[Shawn Hoefer]

After watching the first video, I'm picturing Charlton Heston on a beach, a towering, yet damaged and non-functional mod stuck in the sand in front of him.

"Damn you Joyetech. Damn you all to hell!"

Roll credits...

 

[aldenf]

Does anyone know if the CLR heads fit in the supplied Mega one?
If they do - are they any good or is this tank a bit of a dud?

All the CLR heads are interchangeable with all the eGo One attys. The Kanthal, Ti & Ni200 variants just come with a different pre-built coil. The CLR heads have adjustable juice control and offer much bigger openings for flow. But many say the adjustment is flaky in actual use. They're cheap enough to give it a go, especially if you already own the tank.

 

[JeremyR]

Oh man. Why did he kept pushing on the button while disassembling? You can tell right away it's only a cap so it's actually the other way around. You want that button on the low side so it protrudes out as much as possible to give the board space to slide out.

I'm not even going to comment the fact that he didn't turn off the mod before trying to slide it out... That probably killed the thing

3x 1500 is 4500 mah.

On a very high quality pack, you might get extra 30 or 40 mah per cell but it's not honest to classify this as a 5000mah.

If they would have said "equivalent to 5000mah 18650 mod" then it would be different and not a plain lie. A lipo has a flatter discharge curve so you can use more mah out of it than from a couple of 18650 but it's 4500mah nevertheless. :/

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

Just wanted to add turning it off doesn't really matter if you know what your doing.

Turning it off only turns the output off. The battery leads are still live.

I took apart my istick 50w and continued vaping it while apart too. The wires are protected from shorting. Just don't lay a screwdriver across them lol.

 

[TheBloke]

Got my VT this morning. I really like the black/red metallic look, feels nice in the hand too. I like the screen, nice and clear. Menu system sucks of course. Am I right in thinking that you can only scroll through the menu one way? Eg if I'm at 40W and want 30W, I have to go right-right-right until it round robins? Because left is move on to next menu item. Not a huge deal because there's hardly a huge range to go through, but still. Too few buttons : the disease of mod makers everywhere.

Anyway I'll be probing it as soon as I can, got a couple of quick chores to do first.

My first finding on resistance is not good. I put on the same Derringer v2 clone with Titanium coil that I used to test the DNA 40. It reads 0.35Ω on the DNA 40 and the same on my reference DMM ohms meter. It reads 0.38Ω on the VT.

But here's the weird thing - it really feels like the reason it reads too high on the VT is because it reads the coil before I've finished screwing it down!

Let me just be sure of something - there's no button to press to tell it to read (or re-read) resistance, is there? It just reads the resistance as you screw down the atomizer? At least that's what it's doing for me, and I can't see a reference to anything to press to get it to read or re-read. I can lock the resistance, and I can clear the saved resistance by pressing fire with no atty, but for a new atty it just reads automatically so far as I can see?

This seems to be the problem for me: when I've screwed on the Derringer no more than 1/3 the way, it flashes up 0.38Ω. But that's the same as on my DMM, which has a live updating display of course - when I've only screwed the atty on 1/3 of the way, it will read 0.38Ω or 0.37Ω. It's only when I've screwed it on the whole way that it reads the correct 0.35Ω. On any other mod that's no problem, because you screw it on all the way and press fire when it's fully on. But because the VT seems to read it the moment it sees any signal, and then doesn't correct that (at least not on screen), it's getting a figure that's too high because it's reading it before it's fully on.

Now for all I know it's just a display issue, and internally it's corrected it to the correct 0.35Ω. I'll know far more when I get it on the probe, which I will do as soon as I can.

But I wanted to post this now just to check I'm not doing something silly - maybe there's a way to get it to re-read the resistance? Note that I am resetting it to 0.00Ω (press fire with no atty) before screwing on, wihch the manual said would clear any saved setting. And the atomizer resistance is not locked. Also when I take the Derringer off and put it back on, it doesn't ask me New/Old, so maybe I should try putting a different atty on, then put the Derringer back on, though I thought I was clearing out any saved setting by hitting fire with no atomizer.

More info as soon as I can test for it..

 

[BNEAT]

Does anyone know if the CLR heads fit in the supplied Mega one?
If they do - are they any good or is this tank a bit of a dud?

I like the Mega tank: Small, light weight, decent capacity, floating 510 pin, AFC works smoothly, well protected glass tank, and a great paint job that matches the eVic. Not a big fan of the Mega TC coils and their limited juice flow and flakey resistance, but I'm sure they'll work fine for some people.

The flavor wasn't great for me, but that probably has more to do with the coil head than the tank. For all I know, a tootle puffer may be in heaven with these things.

 

[BNEAT]

Got my VT this morning. I really like the black/red metallic look, feels nice in the hand too. I like the screen, nice and clear. Menu system sucks of course. Am I right in thinking that you can only scroll through the menu one way? Eg if I'm at 40W and want 30W, I have to go right-right-right until it round robins? Because left is move on to next menu item. Not a huge deal because there's hardly a huge range to go through, but still. Too few buttons : the disease of mod makers everywhere.

Anyway I'll be probing it as soon as I can, got a couple of quick chores to do first.

My first finding on resistance is not good. I put on the same Derringer v2 clone with Titanium coil that I used to test the DNA 40. It reads 0.35Ω on the DNA 40 and the same on my reference DMM ohms meter. It reads 0.38Ω on the VT.

But here's the weird thing - it really feels like the reason it reads too high on the VT is because it reads the coil before I've finished screwing it down!

Let me just be sure of something - there's no button to press to tell it to read (or re-read) resistance, is there? It just reads the resistance as you screw down the atomizer? At least that's what it's doing for me, and I can't see a reference to anything to press to get it to read or re-read. I can lock the resistance, and I can clear the saved resistance by pressing fire with no atty, but for a new atty it just reads automatically so far as I can see?

This seems to be the problem for me: when I've screwed on the Derringer no more than 1/3 the way, it flashes up 0.38Ω. But that's the same as on my DMM, which has a live updating display of course - when I've only screwed the atty on 1/3 of the way, it will read 0.38Ω or 0.37Ω. It's only when I've screwed it on the whole way that it reads the correct 0.35Ω. On any other mod that's no problem, because you screw it on all the way and press fire when it's fully on. But because the VT seems to read it the moment it sees any signal, and then doesn't correct that (at least not on screen), it's getting a figure that's too high because it's reading it before it's fully on.

Now for all I know it's just a display issue, and internally it's corrected it to the correct 0.35Ω. I'll know far more when I get it on the probe, which I will do as soon as I can.

But I wanted to post this now just to check I'm not doing something silly - maybe there's a way to get it to re-read the resistance? Note that I am resetting it to 0.00Ω (press fire with no atty) before screwing on, wihch the manual said would clear any saved setting. And the atomizer resistance is not locked. Also when I take the Derringer off and put it back on, it doesn't ask me New/Old, so maybe I should try putting a different atty on, then put the Derringer back on, though I thought I was clearing out any saved setting by hitting fire with no atomizer.

More info as soon as I can test for it..

Remove tank; turn eVic off; install tank; turn eVic on