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For the price it is indeed a great piece of equipment. I have had mine for about 2 weeks and haven't even broke out the SR or higher cartos and attys I bought in anticipation of its arrival. 2.0ohms at about 4.2v has been working out wonderfully for me so far. And the battery life seems better than on my LT with the older internals as well.
Salky
Salky
Did they change the bottom cap material? I was going to buy one, but I do not like plastic top or bottom caps. Otherwise, it looks like a good deal,
The 1.5's are having some issues. DO NOT leave the batteries in it if you aren't using it. Go to this thread and read...the vendor pulled them off his website due to safety issues....http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ng-com-information-thread-30.html#post6197865
Thanks hairball for posting a link to that. I had never had mine go into that mode until I tried to get it to do so.
Ohhhh man. All these testimonies make me want to go find my lavatube wherever Canada post has it and grab it !!
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?uti5z0
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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?uti5z0
An addendum to hairball's heads up on the V1.5 malfunctioning dangerously:
We know now that at least some of the V1.5 units can go into "overheating bomb" mode if inadvertently left in the "low-voltage" state (caused by the five-click shutoff being followed by a sixth click, which re-powers the unit into un unintended stealth mode where the display is active but not backlit and the device will fire, although at low voltage).
What we don't know---and it's important---is whether the overheating might also occur in the regular powered-up state of normal use. Maybe not, in which case we could just leave our V1.5s powered on all the time. No big deal, right? But what if it couldoverheat in that state? No one knows.
I think this is a clear case of "better safe than sorry." Anyone who wants to keep using his or her V1.5 would be strongly well-advised when finished vaping with the unit to either remove the batteries from the tube, or---at the very least---unscrew the bottom cap far enough that the batteries no longer make contact with the chip in the power head, so that the unit is powered off for sure.
Look, we're not talking about some vaguely paranoid safety issue---this is a known, verified, and dangerous (even potentially lethal) failure that needs to happen only once to have bad repercussions (such as serious injury or burning down your house).
We know now that at least some of the V1.5 units can go into "overheating bomb" mode if inadvertently left in the "low-voltage" state (caused by the five-click shutoff being followed by a sixth click, which re-powers the unit into un unintended stealth mode where the display is active but not backlit and the device will fire, although at low voltage).
What we don't know---and it's important---is whether the overheating might also occur in the regular powered-up state of normal use. Maybe not, in which case we could just leave our V1.5s powered on all the time. No big deal, right? But what if it couldoverheat in that state? No one knows.
I think this is a clear case of "better safe than sorry." Anyone who wants to keep using his or her V1.5 would be strongly well-advised when finished vaping with the unit to either remove the batteries from the tube, or---at the very least---unscrew the bottom cap far enough that the batteries no longer make contact with the chip in the power head, so that the unit is powered off for sure.
Look, we're not talking about some vaguely paranoid safety issue---this is a known, verified, and dangerous (even potentially lethal) failure that needs to happen only once to have bad repercussions (such as serious injury or burning down your house).
Yeah, I reluctantly took mine out if service. Made me sad to do so. But with people saying different things about what puts it into this state, and some saying the glitch can change over time and use, I figured it was a good idea.
On the CCV thread, someone was confused about Andrew's post detailing the dangerous failure of his V1.5 and asked if the meltdown occurred while the unit was in the low voltage state. Andrew clarified his original post: He was vaping his V1.5 in the normal powered-on mode. He put it down on the table, and it went ballistic. So, it turns out that the dangerous failure of his V1.5 had nothing to do with the "low voltage" glitch in the chip.
I'm not sure whether to conclude that this is even "worse" news than we assumed before, but it is certainly worrisome. Now the problem is spontaneous failure during operation with no apparent cause.
I may have to follow salky's lead and take mine out of service, to await refund or replacement.
I'm not sure whether to conclude that this is even "worse" news than we assumed before, but it is certainly worrisome. Now the problem is spontaneous failure during operation with no apparent cause.
I may have to follow salky's lead and take mine out of service, to await refund or replacement.
Holy smokes... I never usually check in but figured Ill go see what people are saying about the LT 1.5 I got back on the 4th. And I find this.... I got mine from CCV and have been thrilled with it. I did notice that it did stay powered on sometimes even after I shut it off. I guess maybe I pressed more than 5 times.
Im so glad I saw this thread. Thanks everyone. Im emailing ccv about it asap.
Im so glad I saw this thread. Thanks everyone. Im emailing ccv about it asap.
I agree 100%. I got mine to tide me over while my Buzz Pro was in the shop for a minor button issue. Thought I would throw it in a drawer when my B Pro returned, but haven't. Now I carry three big bat mods with me daily (B Pro, L-Tube, and Altoids tin mod). I enjoy them all equally, but the L Tube is the one that surprised me the most with the quality of vape I get from it.
With my LT1.5 out of commission, I ordered a Bolt, on sale, in a drunken fit, to replace it as my work PV until the replacement gets worked out. It was around $31 shipped with a battery (no charger) and I guess I couldn't pass it up! I just can't bring myself to bring the SSLT to my nasty work.
And I agree it works well, especially for the price. But the safety issue is too big of a concern for me.
And I agree it works well, especially for the price. But the safety issue is too big of a concern for me.
Wouldn't unscrewing the carto to a point it won't fire do pretty much the same thing Bill? I mean if the regulator turns on and is trying to fire an open circuit, I wouldn't think much could happen. Maybe I'm wrong, but that's what I've been doing with mine.
Maybe, I don't know really. The story we've all been getting on the forums is that the malfunction of Andrew's LT V1.5 produced smoke that emerged from the holes around the three control buttons---power, +, and -. That would mean that the malfunction (and potential fire or explosion hazard) was from inside the unit, somewhere in the internal electronics, rather than merely the result of an overheated carto. So, your suggestion might minimize the risk, but it might not. We just don't know.
I hope I'm not being alarmist here. The problem is that all our information is second-hand, and sometimes third-hand. We can confirm that Andrew has stopped selling the V1.5 on the CCV site (he changed the inventory number to zero so that the ordering page says "out of stock.") I can personally confirm that CCV Customer Service plans to offer refunds or exchanges (to a V2 chrome Lambo) with a small upgrade charge for the more expensive unit.
As of today, I'm still confused about whether the so-called LT V1.5t is safe or not. That version (called the Vector Variable Volt at VaporBeast and Varitube X at iVape) has the newer all-metal caps and was originally advertised as having a 4-amp limit---which is apparently untrue.
Morning Bill. I would think the reason smoke came out from around the buttons on Andrews device was that after the coil got superheated and the device kept firing, the 510 connection started getting very hot, and the heat back fed into the regulator down the wires and traces. That is purely speculation on my part, and you may be right that I should remove my bat, but I'm too darn lazy and I hate pushing the button 5 times to turn it back on.
One thing I'm curious about is the specs/features on the "Lavatube 2" that Andrew is working on getting us as a swap. TBH, if it is just a chrome original L-Tube with all the extreme current limiting, I'm not sure I wouldn't keep my 1.5. As stupid as it sounds, I really like the resistance measurement on my 1.5. If I want to figure out the resistance of a mystery carto, it's easier to screw it on my tube and tap a button, than pulling out a meter. I haven't really been able to find any solid info on a Lavatube 2 online. It may be as you pointed out what some people are calling a "Lavatube 3", but as you mentioned, a lot of the info on that device is dubious.
hificat101,
I'm with you, brother (or sister---whatever),
Your reasoning about the failure of Andrew's V1.5 unit is logical. An auto-firing that wouldn't stop and heated the coil of the carto sufficiently to backfeed smoke into the tube is certainly a possibility. Problem is, we weren't there, didn't see what really happened, and cannot be sure of much of anything except that the device failed on its own (not through user error), and in such a way that Andrew immediately stopped selling the V1.5.
As for an exchange, if the chrome unit offered is the Lambo V2 (with the spring-loaded positive pole inside an eGo-style 510 connector), then it will probably have the original V1 electronics, with no resistance checking and a 2.5 amp limit.
Like you, I don't want that. Not even a little bit. I'll either keep my V1.5 or send it back for a refund. I love the resistance checking feature and its easy, ergonomic implementation---a single button click gets us 1. atty/carto resistance, 2. current set voltage, and 3. battery remaining graph. That's one reason I don't own a ProVari---I don't like having to send morse code---meaning multiple clicks and pauses---to maneuver through a multi-step menu. That kind of software engineering may be chip-designer friendly, but it's end user unfriendly, and I dislike it intensely. In many other ways, the ProVari is great---like build quality and no voltage drop at all---but not in that way.
If Errol is correct in his test results (and we can't be sure that he is) about the LT V1.5 and V1.5t having an actual limit of 2.88 amps achieved by over-clocking the original chip, well, that's good enough for me in real world use. 2.5 amps isn't, however. Provape found that out real quick. Many ProVari V1 owners didn't like getting error codes, the same as Lavatube V1 owners didn't like mystery voltage drops.
If the chrome V2 that Andrew's getting as a replacement has a 3.0A limit, I'd consider it, but only if it also has resistance checking. Otherwise, no deal.
I'm with you, brother (or sister---whatever),
Your reasoning about the failure of Andrew's V1.5 unit is logical. An auto-firing that wouldn't stop and heated the coil of the carto sufficiently to backfeed smoke into the tube is certainly a possibility. Problem is, we weren't there, didn't see what really happened, and cannot be sure of much of anything except that the device failed on its own (not through user error), and in such a way that Andrew immediately stopped selling the V1.5.
As for an exchange, if the chrome unit offered is the Lambo V2 (with the spring-loaded positive pole inside an eGo-style 510 connector), then it will probably have the original V1 electronics, with no resistance checking and a 2.5 amp limit.
Like you, I don't want that. Not even a little bit. I'll either keep my V1.5 or send it back for a refund. I love the resistance checking feature and its easy, ergonomic implementation---a single button click gets us 1. atty/carto resistance, 2. current set voltage, and 3. battery remaining graph. That's one reason I don't own a ProVari---I don't like having to send morse code---meaning multiple clicks and pauses---to maneuver through a multi-step menu. That kind of software engineering may be chip-designer friendly, but it's end user unfriendly, and I dislike it intensely. In many other ways, the ProVari is great---like build quality and no voltage drop at all---but not in that way.
If Errol is correct in his test results (and we can't be sure that he is) about the LT V1.5 and V1.5t having an actual limit of 2.88 amps achieved by over-clocking the original chip, well, that's good enough for me in real world use. 2.5 amps isn't, however. Provape found that out real quick. Many ProVari V1 owners didn't like getting error codes, the same as Lavatube V1 owners didn't like mystery voltage drops.
If the chrome V2 that Andrew's getting as a replacement has a 3.0A limit, I'd consider it, but only if it also has resistance checking. Otherwise, no deal.
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