KangerTech SUBTANK Mini
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Damn!.....126 pages of SubTank Mini posts here in only a month and a half.....WOW!. OK......I need a little help here. I received my Kanger SubTank Mini, a couple of days ago. I usually use 18mg juice in a Kanger AeroMega (1.8ohm coil), on an iStick, @ about 11.5 - 12 watts. I tried using my normal 18mg juice, and adjusted my iStick 30w to about 18-19 watts (to get about the same voltage that I'm used to with the AeroMega).
I primed the coil, cleaned the tank, and put the 1.2ohm coil in it. The 18mg juice WAS killing me!....Way too strong. I put my wife's 6mg juice in it. It's better, but even a short drag is bothering my throat, and making me cough. The crazy thing......the vapor production is awful. I'm wondering if I just have a bad coil.....or is this tank just really not for me? SUCKS!......Cuz' I really had high hopes for this tank.....after reading all the positive reviews about it. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks. EDIT....( I currently don't have any other 1.2 ohm coils to try, and I think that the .5 ohm coil that came with it, would not be what I'm looking to vape at ).
I guess that at this point......The only thing that I could try, would be to pickup some more coils, and see if that helps. Like I said.....I'm really trying to like this tank.
I do like my Kanger subtank mini even though i have failed to get the RBA to work without dry hits. I like the flavor i get from the 1.2 ohm coil. I can do full lung hits with the airflow wide open at comfortable 15.5 watts. The best thing about the subtank mini over the Nano is the tank capacity of 1.5 ml over the Nano. But if you don't mind filling it, there is nothing i know of bad about the Nano.
Kyi, just enjoy it.
I do like my Kanger subtank mini even though i have failed to get the RBA to work without dry hits. I like the flavor i get from the 1.2 ohm coil. I can do full lung hits with the airflow wide open at comfortable 15.5 watts. The best thing about the subtank mini over the Nano is the tank capacity of 1.5 ml over the Nano. But if you don't mind filling it, there is nothing i know of bad about the Nano.
Kyi, just enjoy it.
wicking is the key in getting the rba to vape correctly, thick and short is the answer, imho as newb to rba's,
i have to twist and pull and force to get my wick through the coil and then i cut it so it just reaches the deck.
try it and see how it works, cost u a strip of cotton.
imo rba tastes and vapes better than the occ.
i should post a vid on my chainvaping and clouds it makes
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Me too...When I tried a smaller wick I got the occasional dry hit.
I too have failed to find the magic solution for stable wicking. I seem to get 2 hits that splatter my tongue with hot juice, then a couple of good hours before going dry. A primer puff restarts the cycle. Maybe my juice is too thick but the OCCs do fine with it. My Lemo Drop also does fine with my juice regardless of how I wick it.
I might try rebuilding an OCC this weekend and just use those. If that doesn't work I'll just get another lemo.
I might try rebuilding an OCC this weekend and just use those. If that doesn't work I'll just get another lemo.
ok i made my first ever youtube video, dont laugh, not shaved or combed my hair, w t f i dont care, ok im lmao.
i dont vape at 28w , demo only, but man the nic hits were hitting me using only 3mg
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I thought switching from the OCC to the RBA was the only reason I was getting a much better vape but I just realized that I also switched from 9 mg juice to 3 mg juice.
Picked up a STmini the other day to go with my new DIY DNA 40 hammond box mod, specifically to use the RBA head with nickel wire.
That is my first attempt at a nickel build, and so far its good, the resistance has been stable, and have no issues.
I have an OG ST, but never really cared for it, the RBA part is a bit annoying on it, and the OCC coils only lasted a couple days for me. This STmini RBA is pretty darn good IMO, I'm really surprised how well its wicking given the tiny juice channels. I am happy with it.
That is my first attempt at a nickel build, and so far its good, the resistance has been stable, and have no issues.
I have an OG ST, but never really cared for it, the RBA part is a bit annoying on it, and the OCC coils only lasted a couple days for me. This STmini RBA is pretty darn good IMO, I'm really surprised how well its wicking given the tiny juice channels. I am happy with it.
Ok you proved it works "for you". It has never worked for me and i tried it 3 or 4 times wicking and had a guy in a vape shop wick it for me. Every time i ended up getting dry hits which really bother my throat and lungs.
This was one of my wicks.
I am able to vape well with the OCC heads and chain vape.
I live in an apartment and i have no tools. My local vape shop has a drill press. I may take it there.
I live in an apartment and i have no tools. My local vape shop has a drill press. I may take it there.
You can do it with a bead reamer by hand (just a diamond file) - doesn't need a dremel! Also, I've read a few times that some people are having success by splitting their wicks into a 'u' formation - I haven't tried it, but it might work: http://i.imgur.com/JQ3bxCh.jpg
I just saw this too and rewicked following those steps, 30w no burnt hits, I mean you got make sure you're making a good flow when you inhale. If you vape it slow there definitely is the chance of the burnt hit because you're not drawing enough air.
Basically pull wick through like you normally would. Pull tails up through bottom part of chimney and tighten down. Cut your length the recommended 1 cm which worked for me. Then I took scissors and cut right down the middle of the wick length ways on both side so its split. Basically just leaving the juice holes completely open. Hope that made sense. Pretty easy though.
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Heard that G. My single disappointment is that the formidable RBA for the Subtank wasn't adapted to the Mini. Instead after PB's complaints about the screws for the ST's top cap, they redesigned and came up with this…
Kanger SUBTANK-PLUS clearomizer – KangerTech
So it looks like we're stuck with the flimsier RBA section, at least for the short term. A pity.
Good luck.
p.s. Word to the wise, stock up on the Subtank/RBA while you can. Or, if so inclined, I'll gladly take donations.
View attachment 417322View attachment 417323View attachment 417324
I've contacted a couple of local machine shops for a quote on the following:
1. Tube section with a little thicker walls and kurling.
2. Base section with slightly larger juice channels and knurling.
I'm not looking into a complete RBA at this point, just upgraded parts for the tube and base we already have.
I have no idea what kind of pricing will come back, and I'm sure there will be specifics I haven't thought of yet...
Any thoughts or ideas to make this a better RBA would be appreciated, even if fruitless in the end, I want to see some options
I would like to ask Kanger for these changes but feel like it will go nowhere just like the warranty issue I submitted to them regarding poor threading of the +/- screw posts and the tube section threading that locks up so bad you need to wrench and destroy it just to get it opened up to rebuild...
Honestly, kanger makes some decent stuff, but when I presented this warranty issue to them they offered to send me replacement insulators ASAP!! What the heck.. Still working it out with them
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I have the same problem every time. I just lay. Rubber band around those threads on the bottom and put needle nose pliers on that and it pops open easily without messing it up. But still I understand your frustration. It should be a lot easier.
Ok you proved it works "for you". It has never worked for me and i tried it 3 or 4 times wicking and had a guy in a vape shop wick it for me. Every time i ended up getting dry hits which really bother my throat and lungs.
This was one of my wicks.
View attachment 417385
I am able to vape well with the OCC heads and chain vape.
Are you using the IPV mini? Because in DC mode it cant down regulate and with a .5 or .6 coil you'd be vaping at 30 watts...You'd have to switch the unit over to PWM mode in order to down reg the wattage...
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