KangerTech SUBTANK Mini

[Beamslider]

@Vinnybagodoughnuts

They still have these entire clones. Just use the STM base and you are good to go. They have them with many different glass colors in stainless tank. The color on the glass is just a film that comes off with warm water soak. The top fits the authentic bases just fine. The base may be ok too but I always just toss it and replace it with an authentic one.

$8.48 Toptank Mini Styled Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer - 4ml / 0.15ohm / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

The authentic base is here
$4.86 Authentic KangerTech Replacement Airflow Control Valve for Toptank Mini Clearomizer - stainless steel at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

Thanks Beam.
I am grateful this thread is still active.I just recently dusted off my collection of STM's and TTM's. I was reminded how great they really are.Good flavor,no leaking, easy to build, winner!!!
Also a while back Mac steered me towards a great deal on the Trinity STM. I forgot I even had it until he mentioned it again. Going to dust that off as well.
Thanks Mac (and everyone else here of course)for keeping this thread alive and contributing so much for my all time favorite tank.

 

[MacTechVpr]

Thanks Beam.
I am grateful this thread is still active.I just recently dusted off my collection of STM's and TTM's. I was reminded how great they really are.Good flavor,no leaking, easy to build, winner!!!
Also a while back Mac steered me towards a great deal on the Trinity STM. I forgot I even had it until he mentioned it again. Going to dust that off as well.
Thanks Mac (and everyone else here of course)for keeping this thread alive and contributing so much for my all time favorite tank.

Well here's another one for ya Vinny…

Trinity Sub X (Subtank Mini) Tank

If ya'll clean 'em out save one for me if you get some extra's!

Good luck.

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

The one I got was only 5 bucks with the base.
Not sure if the base is authentic but it seems to work.Is there any way to actually tell?
Kicking myself for not getting more but thats still a good deal.Thanks again Mac!

 

[chellie]

I swapped out with my previous STM’s RBA, which has larger juice holes. I’m thinking of getting several of these RBA’s as a quick backup. Pre-wick them so they’ll be as convenient as a pre-made factory coil.

That's exactly what I do. I do not dry burn my coils so when it's gunked up I pop in a new premade one. Then I remove the coil and cotton from the used one and throw that away and put the rba piece in its special area. Then like once a month or so I coil and rewick. Very easy. Beamslider and zoiDman gave me some great ideas and links and I am very happy with the toptank mini. I had also purchased a mini c setup and ended up using that box with my extra toptank.

 

[chellie]

I use the Samsung 25R batteries in my toptank and mini c. I vape at 20 to 22 watts .5 coil. Should I stick with that or would you recommend a 30A or something else and if so --why? I have no problems with my current batteries - just curious.

 

[catilley1092]

I use the Samsung 25R batteries in my toptank and mini c. I vape at 20 to 22 watts .5 coil. Should I stick with that or would you recommend a 30A or something else and if so --why? I have no problems with my current batteries - just curious.

You should be well covered with the Samsung 25R batteries in that setup.

Cat

 

[zoiDman]

I use the Samsung 25R batteries in my toptank and mini c. I vape at 20 to 22 watts .5 coil. Should I stick with that or would you recommend a 30A or something else and if so --why? I have no problems with my current batteries - just curious.

On a Regulated device, Atomizer Ohms Don't Effect Amp Load on your Battery.

It's the Maximum Wattage used, the Lowest Battery Voltage, and the Mod's Efficiency.

So if you want to know what the Amp Load on your Battery is, Divide your Wattage by the Battery Cut-Off Voltage (usually 3.2 Volts of so) then Divide the result by .9 (which is a conservative 90% Mod Efficiency).

For you, at 22 Watts that would be...

(22 / 3.2) / .9 = 7.4 Amps.

So a 20 Amp CDR Battery would have No Problem at this Wattage.

BTW - If you throw a Little Math on (Watts / Battery Cut-Off Voltage ) / ( .9 ) = Battery Amps, you could write it as...

Watts = (Battery Amps)( Battery Cut-Off Voltage)( .9)

Now plug in what your Battery Amps are for the Battery you are using and the Cut-Off Voltage...

Watts = (20)(3.2)( .9)

=> Watts = 57.6

So for a 20 Amp CDR Battery, you should be able to go up to 57.6 Watts on a Single Battery Regulated Device.

 

[chellie]

On a Regulated device, Atomizer Ohms Don't Effect Amp Load on your Battery.

It's the Maximum Wattage used, the Lowest Battery Voltage, and the Mod's Efficiency.

So if you want to know what the Amp Load on your Battery is, Divide You Wattage buy the Battery Cut-Off Voltage (usually 3.2 Volts of so) then Divide the result by .9 (which is a conservative 90% Mod Efficiency).

For you, at 22 Watts that would be...

(22 / 3.2) / .9 = 7.4 Amps.

So a 20 Amp CDR Battery would have No Problem at this Wattage.

BTW - If you throw a Little Math on (Watts / Battery Cut-Off Voltage ) / ( .9 ) = Battery Amps, you could write it as...

Watts = (Battery Amps)( Battery Cut-Off Voltage)( .9)
Now plug in what your Battery Amps are for the Battery you are using and the Cut-Off Voltage...

Watts = (20)(3.2)( .9)

=> Watts = 57.6

So for a 20 Amp CDR Battery, you should be able to go up to 57.6 Watts on a Single Battery Regulated Device.

I like math ---that I can understand. Thanks

 

[HawaiianVaporTrailz]

Vapamail!

KSM Clone in SS finish that I got off eBay. Very nicely made, I might add. Threads are a little rough and the 510 pin protrudes a tad bit more than an authentic, but it vapes real good! I’ve already vaped one tankful and about to call it a night.

 

[brooksva]

Hello all.
So I posted previously about rebuilding the kanker tech vertical OCC coils. That process has been working out very well for me where I just fire the coil and wick it again. A head generally lasts me maybe three days. After repeating the process for each coil many times, I noticed they're starting to get a bit fragile and it's time to replace them.
These are the coils with the red grommet on the bottom that kanger identifies as stainless steel. I bought 28, 26, and finally 24 gauge ss wire. The factory coils have nine wraps 3.5 mm diameter and somewhere around 30 mm total leg length and it comes out to be .57 ohms and I believe they are 26 gauge. The only way I can get the .57 ohms with everything else the same is the with the 24 gauge wire which is a bear to work with to make the pigtail at the bottom and the 90° bend at the top.
The steam engine site verifies the actual results I got with all three wires.
All of this empirical data suggest to me that the factory wire is not stainless steel at all. This morning, I was again in the steam engine site trying to work backwards from the .57 ohms and titanium1 at 26 gauge was the only material that perfectly matched. One thing I did not mention is that the factory coils are ferrous the stainless was not and titanium isn't either. In either event, I just ordered A roll of 26 gauge titanium.
147 days ago I was a 36 year smoker and now I am not so I'm trying to forgive myself for being obsessively compulsively in this but I would love to hear from someone more experienced in this and I thank you sincerely for your time.

 

[puffon]

I thought the red grommet meant it was Kanthal?

 

[Letitia]

Hello all.
So I posted previously about rebuilding the kanker tech vertical OCC coils. That process has been working out very well for me where I just fire the coil and wick it again. A head generally lasts me maybe three days. After repeating the process for each coil many times, I noticed they're starting to get a bit fragile and it's time to replace them.
These are the coils with the red grommet on the bottom that kanger identifies as stainless steel. I bought 28, 26, and finally 24 gauge ss wire. The factory coils have nine wraps 3.5 mm diameter and somewhere around 30 mm total leg length and it comes out to be .57 ohms and I believe they are 26 gauge. The only way I can get the .57 ohms with everything else the same is the with the 24 gauge wire which is a bear to work with to make the pigtail at the bottom and the 90° bend at the top.
The steam engine site verifies the actual results I got with all three wires.
All of this empirical data suggest to me that the factory wire is not stainless steel at all. This morning, I was again in the steam engine site trying to work backwards from the .57 ohms and titanium1 at 26 gauge was the only material that perfectly matched. One thing I did not mention is that the factory coils are ferrous the stainless was not and titanium isn't either. In either event, I just ordered A roll of 26 gauge titanium.
147 days ago I was a 36 year smoker and now I am not so I'm trying to forgive myself for being obsessively compulsively in this but I would love to hear from someone more experienced in this and I thank you sincerely for your time.

I think you are focusing too much on resistance rather than a good quality vape. Red ring was kanthal back when I used the STM but that may have changed over the years.

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

I believe
@Letitia is correct. Standards have been sit over all for the color of those type of orings and red typically indicates titanium. At least on every other drop in coil I have ever used. Blue has always been for nickel. Black is the most common color for kanthal.

 

[Letitia]

I believe
@Letitia is correct. Standards have been sit over all for the color of those type of orings and red typically indicates titanium. At least on every other drop in coil I have ever used. Blue has always been for nickel. Black is the most common color for kanthal.

That is not the case anymore with color coding. The Cleito coils orange was kanthal and black ss.

 

[brooksva]

I agree that the resistance may be a moot point- I'm making it up as I go along by reverse engineering something that I like. I've tried kanthal but the taste to me was similar to burning hair. I just last week, threw away my I.C.E. pack of probably very stale smokes- I just want to find what works for me without breaking the bank and ensuring that I never go back. Thanks for your reply

 

[brooksva]

I believe
@Letitia is correct. Standards have been sit over all for the color of those type of orings and red typically indicates titanium. At least on every other drop in coil I have ever used. Blue has always been for nickel. Black is the most common color for kanthal.

 

[puffon]

I believe
@Letitia is correct. Standards have been sit over all for the color of those type of orings and red typically indicates titanium. At least on every other drop in coil I have ever used. Blue has always been for nickel. Black is the most common color for kanthal.

Don't know why Kanger didn't mark their coils.
I have some early STMs (2014) that came out before Ti was being used, which is why I thought the red were Kanthal.

 

[brooksva]

I hope you are right. If red is indeed titanium, it sounds like a case of 'occasionally even a blind squirrel finds a nut" and I stumbled upon the material. Titanium wire is much more expensive, one would think they would advertise that as a selling point. Thanks much!

 

[puffon]

I agree that the resistance may be a moot point- I'm making it up as I go along by reverse engineering something that I like. I've tried kanthal but the taste to me was similar to burning hair. I just last week, threw away my I.C.E. pack of probably very stale smokes- I just want to find what works for me without breaking the bank and ensuring that I never go back. Thanks for your reply

You might try the RBA with the STM. I found they vaped better than the drop in coils.