Sub'd......
Good crowd...Plus this is when Qorax announces all the new stuff....
Good crowd...Plus this is when Qorax announces all the new stuff....
Kayfun LITE - Part 2
- Thread starter Dusty_D
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Yay I don't think the KFLplusV2 will ever die. I love em have 3. I have a V4 and while I love it I don't think it is going to work like the KFL with Nickel. Hey Dusty you look like a camera bug, when you take a pic with a good camera that you want to post what setting should you use like 640x480 or what I have a nice camera and never really learned a lot about it It's a Canon Rebel T1. Just wondering I wanted to take some good pics of some of my Nickel builds and wondered about the settings.
Well that shows how stupid I am about this camera. I guess the lowest quality takes up the least space. All I have ever done is put it on automatic and it takes great pics but not sure what setting I would use that would fit on a post. Had this camera for years and I have the dummies book on it but I know a hell of a lot more about vaping then I do taking pics. It takes great pics on auto though.
For my vaping pics, I usually just use my Iphone camera with a cheapie zoom/macro lens attachment. For my other pictures, I usually take them in the largest size possible, and then post a smaller version on the site.
You opened a can of worms 
Problem is that it isn't simple defining the best setting (or we all would be using it). It's a combination of what you have, what you want and what you need.
I could spend days talking about photography and probably only cover half of the topics and be disputed about the other half lol.
In the end, it's all about trade off between things.
For example, the lower the iso level, the smoother the pic (less grain) but you need more light and some kind of stability system to keep a sharp pic at low iso and moderate light. You rarely can have both. So it's a trade off. You can't shoot a racing car in low light with a low iso for example.
Another thing is that the camera is only half of the game (or less). What matters is the lens. You can have a top camera but with a plastic 18-55mm lens you're not going far besides generic pics at normal distance.
To take macro shots of a coil you either have a macro lens or you cheat with a tele zoom but in the latter you will need much more light and a tripod.
If you really want to take a good pic, set up the coil and spend a couple of hours taking pics of it in various modes until you nail it. Play with iso, focus, shutter speed, depth, various zoom settings until you're happy.
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Ps: I have a 10 year old Canon 400D with a Sigma 18-200 gel stabilized lens that works pretty decent but for vape pics I just use my phone... It's not worth the hassle for me personally to grab the "real" camera just to show a wick or coil.
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Problem is that it isn't simple defining the best setting (or we all would be using it). It's a combination of what you have, what you want and what you need.
I could spend days talking about photography and probably only cover half of the topics and be disputed about the other half lol.
In the end, it's all about trade off between things.
For example, the lower the iso level, the smoother the pic (less grain) but you need more light and some kind of stability system to keep a sharp pic at low iso and moderate light. You rarely can have both. So it's a trade off. You can't shoot a racing car in low light with a low iso for example.
Another thing is that the camera is only half of the game (or less). What matters is the lens. You can have a top camera but with a plastic 18-55mm lens you're not going far besides generic pics at normal distance.
To take macro shots of a coil you either have a macro lens or you cheat with a tele zoom but in the latter you will need much more light and a tripod.
If you really want to take a good pic, set up the coil and spend a couple of hours taking pics of it in various modes until you nail it. Play with iso, focus, shutter speed, depth, various zoom settings until you're happy.
Good luck
Regards
Tony
Ps: I have a 10 year old Canon 400D with a Sigma 18-200 gel stabilized lens that works pretty decent but for vape pics I just use my phone... It's not worth the hassle for me personally to grab the "real" camera just to show a wick or coil.
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
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Wow that old thread really got long!
I figure I'll post up my KFL+ with Reaper kayfat tank:
I drilled the base airhole out a bit and also ground down the center pin, looks like a small change but really opens up the airflow, if I had to guess I'd say 50% more flow at least. Puts out some respectable clouds for a Kayfun at .87 ohm. The pin is still plenty strong and secures the positive block very tightly, I tried one of those slotted center pins that someone sells, and like others I had issues with the center block not staying tight because the thin sections left on the pin flexed. Pretty easy mod for anyone looking for more airflow from their KFLs!
I figure I'll post up my KFL+ with Reaper kayfat tank:
I drilled the base airhole out a bit and also ground down the center pin, looks like a small change but really opens up the airflow, if I had to guess I'd say 50% more flow at least. Puts out some respectable clouds for a Kayfun at .87 ohm. The pin is still plenty strong and secures the positive block very tightly, I tried one of those slotted center pins that someone sells, and like others I had issues with the center block not staying tight because the thin sections left on the pin flexed. Pretty easy mod for anyone looking for more airflow from their KFLs!
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I have 1000's invested in DSLR cameras and good lenses, but here's an example what a phone camera can do with a cheap $7 macro lens attachment.
That's 28g wire if anybody is interested to know.
That's 28g wire if anybody is interested to know.
A drop of water on a phone lens can do miracles also
That's 30 gauge...
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Groovy!!
That is a groovy trick.A drop of water on a phone lens can do miracles also
That's 30 gauge...
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
I thought I was the only one who still says groovy.[emoji12]Groovy!!
Thanks guys for all the tips. My camera phone is either 12 mp or higher if I can hold still enough. How do you make the pic big in the post instead of coming out small. I know theres a way but I forget it. I have seen several fixes for the V4 with Nickel build so SvoeMesto should be able to come up with something.
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You will have to host it offsite.. and then post a link with the picture.
If you try to post directly here, you'll end up with a small image.
Create an Imgur.com account.
Install the Imgur app on your phone.
Take a picture with your phone.
Upload it from the app to Imgur.
Go to the image in your Imgur app.
Choose the BB Code link. It will have "[.IMG.]" "[./IMG.]" surrounding the link to the jpg image.
Paste the BBCode into your post via Tapatalk.
Or, if using a PC Web browser, you can do the same from a browser.
Anyone build a nickel coil in their kayfuns? I gave it a shot today.
28g, 9 wraps around 3/33 drill bit. Spaced wraps and came out to .10 ohm. Set the temp to 440 and 13w. About half way through the draw it drops to 9-10watt on the screen. Vapor a tad weak. Either I did something wrong or there's just not enough airflow.
For comparison I have a nickel build in a veritas that I can easily run at 20watt when wide open and a magma that I run at 13-14watt while the afc is set closed enough for a mouth to lung hit. Both those builds I did the same as I put in kayfun.
28g, 9 wraps around 3/33 drill bit. Spaced wraps and came out to .10 ohm. Set the temp to 440 and 13w. About half way through the draw it drops to 9-10watt on the screen. Vapor a tad weak. Either I did something wrong or there's just not enough airflow.
For comparison I have a nickel build in a veritas that I can easily run at 20watt when wide open and a magma that I run at 13-14watt while the afc is set closed enough for a mouth to lung hit. Both those builds I did the same as I put in kayfun.
I have 2 KFL+ v2 with nickel builds. 28g, 10 wraps spaced around a 3mm drill bit. I have it set to 420°F and 16.5w and it's a great vape.
It sounds like your coils are shorting or you have a hot leg. Spaced coils seems to be the way to go with ni200 builds. Make sure the post screws are tight too.
Could be. I did spaced wraps by hand to try and keep them closer together than how it would end up with a screw. It's very possible a coil may be slightly touching another. I tried my best to inspect it as good as possible before wicking it. The ohms came out comparable with my drippers so I thought I did it good.
I'll try a bigger diameter coil next time and throw in an extra wrap. Mine is only 3/32" (~2.25mm).
Thanks. Thought "Rip Trippers" was the e-cig guru, but I was wrong.
Yep. Just another fairly smart opinionated guy who knows a lot about vaping but, I have to say, no more than quite a few folks here.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Almost the same procedure if you are using Photobucket. (I use Photobucket, can't you tell)
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
Very true.
B'coz if we attach the coil head facing downwards it'd nearly touch the base. Which, besides not being good on the conductivity front(!) could restrict the airflow tremendously. And then to make if work we'd pull it upwards - which'd either mangle the wraps or present hot legs due to excessive/unnecessary tail lengths.
Note the 'hot leg'
For the K'funs...
...a better approach is to attach the coil with it's legs at the bottom. Reduces the travel [of the legs] and offers a near perfect airflow with just a slight lift of the coil.
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Nice presentation, qorax.
And I'm sure you do this, although the line drawing doesn't show it - put the kanthal around the screw in a clockwise direction, so that the screw pulls it in when tighteniing, instead of trying to push it out.
And I'm sure you do this, although the line drawing doesn't show it - put the kanthal around the screw in a clockwise direction, so that the screw pulls it in when tighteniing, instead of trying to push it out.
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