Not at all, just a bit bigger in diameter, so more wire. You're getting a nice vape, and that's all that matters.
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Not at all, just a bit bigger in diameter, so more wire. You're getting a nice vape, and that's all that matters.
Yes Sir, I'm very happy with the vape. If I wanted to do a smaller diameter coil, what size down do you recommend?
I like 1/16", and it's pretty popular for micros and cotton wicks. Are you using cotton?
been reading through this issue and bustabo has it correct. I believe in order to get a sub ohm coil to work in the lite the coil needs to be a proper micro coil with a diameter no larger then 5/64, but preferably smaller like a 16g needle or 1/16 drill bit. this allows for more wick coverage were the heat is transferred across more of a space. if that heat is in one particular area I believe it will burn. tbh I never tried a standard sub ohm coil in the k-lite, only a micro coil. now in gennys I have many of set-ups with sub ohm and standard wraps of 2, 3, and 4 wraps, but these coils run a lot warmer and the ss mesh or ceramic along with tiltling can handle the heat, but in a bottom fed device these type coils with cotton wicks may not be able to handle this heat. like I said I never have tried it but do believe this is the case with cotton. if yeti wants sub ohm in the lite I would recommend a true micro coil with a 1/16 diameter coil. as for as resistances, these are just my parameters, coils from .9 and up 28g/ coils from .8 to .9 27g and from .7 and under 26g wire. I just like these wires for these resistances for coverage of the wick in the k-lite for the length given between the screws.
Perfect! Great info Diver.
BTW, Yeti's KFL is fine. There is nothing wrong with it. But he likes subohm and the KFL is a bit fussy (or different) than other devices that Yeti has used subohm with.
Meanwhile, I'll stick with my 30ga micro at 1.9 ohms on my Provari. If I get any happier than I am I'll have a heart attack.
if doing a micro coil, imo the minimum wraps should be about 8, this is just what I have come to know from reading over endless pages of posts about micros. maybe there are some that do less but for the most part it is kind of standard to do no less then 8. for the most part micros go the other way with people doing a lot more then 8, if I had to guess, I would think 10 to 12 is the norm. you can try 6 wraps of 30 and it may work good but not sure. I know it is the thickest wire you have for now but to hit 1.2 ish I think it would perform much better with like 10 wraps of 28g. micros perform well because of more heat being generated across a longer path, when this path is reduced the vape can become a little harsh especially with a thinner wire.
Perfect! Great info Diver.
BTW, Yeti's KFL is fine. There is nothing wrong with it. But he likes subohm and the KFL is a bit fussy (or different) than other devices that Yeti has used subohm with.
Meanwhile, I'll stick with my 30ga micro at 1.9 ohms on my Provari. If I get any happier than I am I'll have a heart attack.
this is your set-up at 1.9Ω ? this is more then 6 wraps ? or were you talking about setting yeti's at 6 wraps?
I have done exactly that, and still dry hits.
Bronze has done some extensive testing that I appreciate immensely, but I'm not sure if we've accomplished anything...none the less, I appreciate his efforts very much.
As we speak, I have a 2nd KFL on the way to me...maybe that will solve my problems.
Was playing around and coil surface area definitely plays a huge role with the micros. I ran a tiny 30awg 1.3ohm 5/4 wrap on 1.5mm ID since last night throughout today and the vape was amazing for the first few hits but after using it for a while just got dry and hot; flavor was muted as well. I had to keep flooding the atty intentionally by blocking the airhole and sucking juice into the chamber to be able to vape today, witch led to some leaks and spurts. At first the extra heat brought a slap of flavor but it wasn't wicking fast enough to keep the tiny coil saturated.
Changed back to a 7/6 wrap, this time with a different torching technique I was able to get it to 1.5ohms but with wider coil. The flavor isn't as full as the first few hits with the previous coil but the vape is properly saturated consistently.
Definitely a sign that 28awg or 26awg Kanthal at 1.3ohms will be right where I'd find it just right with extra flavor but enough surface area to help with vape saturation.
Changed back to a 7/6 wrap, this time with a different torching technique I was able to get it to 1.5ohms but with wider coil. The flavor isn't as full as the first few hits with the previous coil but the vape is properly saturated consistently.
Definitely a sign that 28awg or 26awg Kanthal at 1.3ohms will be right where I'd find it just right with extra flavor but enough surface area to help with vape saturation.
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because of the lack of airflow control im finding the kfl to be much more fussy with the same micro coil setup than my k3.1 and k mini...
currently using 9wraps of 28awg 1.1-1.3ohm...works beautifully on the k mini and k3.1 with airflow restricted, however getting dry hits on kfl or flooding....cant seem to get a sweet spot....50/50 liquid generally.....
any suggestions for kfl micro coil specifically?
currently using 9wraps of 28awg 1.1-1.3ohm...works beautifully on the k mini and k3.1 with airflow restricted, however getting dry hits on kfl or flooding....cant seem to get a sweet spot....50/50 liquid generally.....
any suggestions for kfl micro coil specifically?
Try a wrap or two less and see where that takes you or a little less or more wick.
I have done exactly that, and still dry hits.
Bronze has done some extensive testing that I appreciate immensely, but I'm not sure if we've accomplished anything...none the less, I appreciate his efforts very much.
As we speak, I have a 2nd KFL on the way to me...maybe that will solve my problems.
so yeti, you have done a sub ohm micro on the lite that didn't work right? what diameter, gauge wire, resistance, and wick material was it?
since it seems like you have experience in building these coils already im assuming the coil part is fine. In my experiences with people having dry hits I tend to believe it mostly has to do with the wick itself. what works for me is to make sure the piece of cotton you will be using is consistent the entire length of the piece, meaning no whimpy sections. I slightly twist the entire section before installing. as I install I want some decent resistance as I pull through, almost to the point where its bunching up, but not quite. once pulled through I place the wick tails right in the center of the deck and fairly close to the actual slots. my tails have a slight bend as it hits the lower deck. for the actual coil, it needs to be tight, all coils glowing the same, from the middle out. no wire leads should glow past the last coil turn. also attach the wire leads to the screws with minimal distance from the coil. no wire leads should be close to the air hole. also because of no air control I find the best distance of the coil is, the bottom of the coil is just below the screw heads, or a smidgen lower.
yeti, if you want I could send you a coil, it will be exactly like mine, a 8 or 9 wrap of 26g wire. this coil will be ready to install with the bends already in place. just snap around the screw heads and bob's your uncle. this coil will be pre wicked with the exact wick that I use with the exact length. all you will need to do is place it just like in my photo. what do you think?
Thank you, I will try that out. Yes I'm using cotton from those bulk cotton balls in a ziploc.
Just wanted to say, Thank You!!! for the YouTubes you've done, I haven't even been able to build mine yet and already watched them 100 times 
Got my PFTE O rings from amazon only to find they don't work >_<. My own fault as I didn't realize that they were harder so being the US standard rather than the metric size prevents them from fitting. Luckily I also ordered some silicon rings which seem to do the trick. Gonna see if I can track down some of the correct metric sized rings in various materials.
I agree 100%. The 6-wrap 30ga does not work. Didn't think it would. Wish I had thicker wire here.
That is correct. I was tinkering with Yeti's with the 6-wrap. My 1.9ohm set up has 10 wraps of 30ga, 2mm ID.
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