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dwcraig1

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Vacuum - shmacuum... You suck on your Kayfun creating Negative Pressure that is called: "Vacuum" that pulls your juice into the chamber.
That said. One guy likes the tighter draw and uses thinner e-liquid and the other guy (like me) likes looser draw and uses 70% or 80% VG, thicker e-liquid. How could you expect the same device to accommodate both guy's needs?
By changing the size and length of the channels.

I guess I'd better add to this, the resistance of the airway and any resistance within the juice channel caused by how much wicking is in them is going to effect whether the thick liquid will wick well.
 
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dwcraig1

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I would love to see a pic of your juice channels. I have a tobecco and I have all kinda of issues and ppl say I'm crazy but I swear it's my juice channels lol. I drip 24/7 all diff kinds of rda but that damn kfl + nope. Collects dust lmao
I Dremeled out the channels on my Tobeco Kafun mini this morning and it solved my slow wicking problem.
 

nasca

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You know what could help you in your experiments? Try getting one of those transparent plastic kits that show you whats hapening inside the chimney. It helped me a lot in seeing how the juice is filling up the chimney to know how to place my wicks.

can you post a video? that would be cool.
 

regal55

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I would love to see a pic of your juice channels. I have a tobecco and I have all kinda of issues and ppl say I'm crazy but I swear it's my juice channels lol. I drip 24/7 all diff kinds of rda but that damn kfl + nope. Collects dust lmao

I've basically had zero luck with the Tribeca. But the Ephro is hit or miss too.
 

WharfRat1976

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I own two genuine Svoemesto KFLs and the last thing I would ever do to them is take a dremel and wire brush to the threads.

It's a "beyond soft" wire brush and does not compromise the integrity of the threads in any way shape or form. I own authentics too but I also went to Harvard and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express.:laugh:
 
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WharfRat1976

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I also started putting my cotton 'ends' right on the channels w/o actually pushing them it. Just sit them on top loosely. I'm trying everything to get these things to wick correctly :)
The wicks have to be "tucked in" to some degree to clear the chimney threads otherwise, of course, the wicks will twist with the chimney screw down. I tuck them ever so gently, plumply, and try not to distort them in any way. I tuck them far enough to clear the threads for the chimney to come down as perfectly as possible. I do everything under magnification, so I can see what I am doing. My wicking became 100% better using magnification. Just a suggestion.
 

WharfRat1976

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have you read about this subject from Mactechvpr? he has some pretty interesting information on the subject. I really do believe there is more to it then just heat and looking pretty but tbh, I haven't totally read all of his blogs and such on the subject. anyways, pertaining to my original question, are you saying that my results of a shorted, or an uneven glow in the coil, has nothing to do with how tight it was?
Here is Mactechcpr's link to wrapping a tight coil: outdated - Micro Coils 101 - Part One - Making The Tightest Coil You've Ever Made - YouTube
It's a mess, quite frankly. You and I wrap just as tight a coil by hand and are not taping leads to mini screwdrivers:facepalm:
You said "I really do believe there is more to it then just heat." Well, the perfect coil will simply create more heat. What else do you think it will do? What "more to it" is there? Of course, how tight and perfected the coil is has everything to do with shorting, hot spots and "uneven glows." When these take place you are simply getting LESS HEAT or NO HEAT in the event of a short. My point was, in the end, it takes little heat to atomize the liquid so the perfection of your coil, in the end, really doesn't matter. All coils are imperfect. There is no such thing as a perfect coil. They are like snowflakes. I think wicking and wick placement has everything thing to do with flavor and absorption as well as seals and re-assembly in totality.
 

dwcraig1

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I think here, in the last few posts, the question is, will enlarging the channels cause more juice to come in? I think it will, but it depends on how you draw.
I read a lot about not obstructing the juice channels or it will block the juice from entering but I think it's more about the air bubble escaping.... which in the end amounts to the same thing more or less.
Nothing out, nothing in.
 

AMDTrucking

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This "Big Fun" is what ToBeCo calls this 28.5mm Kayfun Lite is turning into a big pain...

I had to increase those Juice Channels even more, about 0.3mm each side. I also increased my coil resistance to 0.87 Ohms lowering the power down to 20 Watts. Still trying hard to use the Rayon. Will see... Keeping my fingers crossed.

fSx0vQr.jpg


Edit: 20 minutes after filling it started burning rayon again.
Rayon is out, Cotton is in for now.
 
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Midniteoyl

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The wicks have to be "tucked in" to some degree to clear the chimney threads otherwise, of course, the wicks will twist with the chimney screw down. I tuck them ever so gently, plumply, and try not to distort them in any way. I tuck them far enough to clear the threads for the chimney to come down as perfectly as possible. I do everything under magnification, so I can see what I am doing. My wicking became 100% better using magnification. Just a suggestion.

I do the chimney method of trimming my wicks - cut about 4mm above the top of the chimney and tucked down and in.


WP_20140620_001.jpg
 

MaxUT

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New coil builder here-- so far I've tried:

A 28g 1/16" 13 turn tight coil @ 1.4 ohms, oriented about 20 degrees clockwise of the post screws, wicked with cotton. Lots of vapor and throat hit but the flavor of my usual juice was odd, different. Coil was centered over the air hole and tried at 1mm and 2mm heights.

A 30g 3/32" 8 turn coil that came out at 2.1 ohms. The turns are widely separated and the coil is about 2mm above the air hole. Again, wicked with cotton. Vapor production and throat hit are so-so. Flavor is more to my taste on this one-- this juice I've been using for a couple of years tastes more intense with this setup, even though I've diluted it with PG to 60% concentration [amazing!]. Problem is, the coil tends to pop juice toward the end of the hit so I have to take primer hits occaisionally. I'll try squeezing the coils closer together when I rewick it tonight.

I've been using Koh-Gen-Do cotton and love it because of the parallel fibers and clean taste. It's very easy to adjust the thickness while pulling it through the coil... if it's too tight, just grab the tweezers and pull off a few fibers from the side, then try pulling it through again.
I got them here: Koh Gen Do Organic Cotton Pads at DermStore

One last comment: these post screws suck! They're not flat on the underside and the wire slides out from underneath as the screw is tightened. I found some M1.6 SS screws at McMaster-Carr to try, and think I'll also look for some tiny washers for just-in-case.
 

regal55

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New coil builder here-- so far I've tried:

A 28g 1/16" 13 turn tight coil @ 1.4 ohms, oriented about 20 degrees clockwise of the post screws, wicked with cotton. Lots of vapor and throat hit but the flavor of my usual juice was odd, different. Coil was centered over the air hole and tried at 1mm and 2mm heights.

A 30g 3/32" 8 turn coil that came out at 2.1 ohms. The turns are widely separated and the coil is about 2mm above the air hole. Again, wicked with cotton. Vapor production and throat hit are so-so. Flavor is more to my taste on this one-- this juice I've been using for a couple of years tastes more intense with this setup, even though I've diluted it with PG to 60% concentration [amazing!]. Problem is, the coil tends to pop juice toward the end of the hit so I have to take primer hits occaisionally. I'll try squeezing the coils closer together when I rewick it tonight.

I've been using Koh-Gen-Do cotton and love it because of the parallel fibers and clean taste. It's very easy to adjust the thickness while pulling it through the coil... if it's too tight, just grab the tweezers and pull off a few fibers from the side, then try pulling it through again.
I got them here: Koh Gen Do Organic Cotton Pads at DermStore

One last comment: these post screws suck! They're not flat on the underside and the wire slides out from underneath as the screw is tightened. I found some M1.6 SS screws at McMaster-Carr to try, and think I'll also look for some tiny washers for just-in-case.

Interesting post I find the coil the easy part, but the wick damn near impossible. I guess I need to try these cotton pads
 

mgmrick

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Rayon is just not worth the trouble in a kayfun. Good cotton works just great and rayon adds nothing to the equation....
This "Big Fun" is what ToBeCo calls this 28.5mm Kayfun Lite is turning into a big pain...

I had to increase those Juice Channels even more, about 0.3mm each side. I also increased my coil resistance to 0.87 Ohms lowering the power down to 20 Watts. Still trying hard to use the Rayon. Will see... Keeping my fingers crossed.

fSx0vQr.jpg


Edit: 20 minutes after filling it started burning rayon again.
Rayon is out, Cotton is in for now.
 

bsoplinger

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vapdivrr

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Here is Mactechcpr's link to wrapping a tight coil: outdated - Micro Coils 101 - Part One - Making The Tightest Coil You've Ever Made - YouTube
It's a mess, quite frankly. You and I wrap just as tight a coil by hand and are not taping leads to mini screwdrivers:facepalm:
You said "I really do believe there is more to it then just heat." Well, the perfect coil will simply create more heat. What else do you think it will do? What "more to it" is there? Of course, how tight and perfected the coil is has everything to do with shorting, hot spots and "uneven glows." When these take place you are simply getting LESS HEAT or NO HEAT in the event of a short. My point was, in the end, it takes little heat to atomize the liquid so the perfection of your coil, in the end, really doesn't matter. All coils are imperfect. There is no such thing as a perfect coil. They are like snowflakes. I think wicking and wick placement has everything thing to do with flavor and absorption as well as seals and re-assembly in totality.
Wasn't really talking about sx drifters video but just some of the jests of what mtv talks about. Thb, I never would of thought about coil characteristics such as adhesion, tension, and lateral scews before reading some of his info. Tbh, like I mentioned in my op, this stuff could be way over the top and quite honestly over my head but it is interesting non the less. I'm not an engineer so I cannot really say if it's all a bunch of b/s or there is some merit that a properly done micro coil is more efficient, as in vaporizing, wicking, and energy usage to a poorly done micro coil. Btw, that video may have mentioned about MacTechVpr, but that's not him. That is superxdrifter, more or less the guy who brought micro coils to rebuildables.
 
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mgmrick

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That's what I thought too.... I spent 3 straight nights trying numerous different setups on 4 different kayfuns. I get pm's and emails from others that don't want to rock the rayon boat having issues with rayon (yes I have the right rayon). It's a mute point for me good cotton works well for me and serves all my needs. I have no need or desire to fight with that perfect rayon setup
If one works so should the other, not like a night and day difference.

It may very well be the way I vape. I take long easy draws. 15 watts on a dna30 box with 30 kanthal 1.3 ohms micro coil
 
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